BMAN1113

Pegg, The Sc's traction control works awesome on mine. When it rains I usually have fun trying to break the car loose, but it never slips much at all. I'm always amazed. Maybe the oil in CA builds up so much that when it does finally rain it creates some wicked oil slick effect. Not really sure. Did you have traction control? If not, make sure your next one does. It's worth every extra penny.

1988-1990 (84') Saab 900 Turbo (Total piece of sh*t... Scares me to think these guys actually make aircraft.) 1990-1998 (69') Mustang Mach1 (awesome car, but constantly attracted strangers to the point that it got annoying. Alot of these being ex-con looking scary trailer types. I would also get pulled over by police weekly for petty bullsh*t. Attracted alot of smokin-hot latin chicks though.) 1991-1995 (85') Mazda RX7 (fun car.. had an illusion of speed.) 1998-2000 (90') Acura Legend (great car.. quick.. very dependable) 2000- now (93') SC400 (Best car ever !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!) lol. Just wish they had made a V8 manual trans edition. Automatics bite.

My 93' SC400 has had minor vibrations for the past 6mo or so. I notice this when I'm ideling at a red light. It's minor, but still irritating and noticeable. This happens about 70% of the time. Happens equally with A/C off and on. When it doesnt occur its so quiet and smooth..like new. What could be causing this? I have done a full tune-up (plugs, wires, caps, throttle body cleaned, two Tecron treatments). I thought maybe the motor/trans mounts, but my mechanic says they are in great shape. Has anyone had this problem and fixed it?

My '93 has done this for the past several years. Living in Houston, it really hasnt been a priority, but I'll have to try that. Though, I dont understand how that would fix the problem. Does anyone understand how exactly this works. Water or anti-freeze in the over-flow container isnt really being used... is it? I've also notice that, with my car, this problem comes and goes. Let us know if this problem resurfaces.

Had mine reconed. They sound like new. $20 each. He may do mail order. He's the best around. All the bands have him repair their amps. He was so busy it took me 2 weeks to get mine back. But I just like having the original. I had some other 4" speakers installed before and they just didnt sound the same. Allen's Reconing 919 W. 19th St Houston, TX 77008 713-862-2747

The SC430 has grown on me. Especially in silver. I used to hate it. I agree regarding the 330. That's truly ugly.

I've been running a set of MXV4's on my SC400 since August. While I love the way they feel and handle, they don't look nearly as good as the Pilot series. When looking at the car from the rear, the MXV4's appear too thin. I liked how the Pilots "squooshed" down and out. Gave a fatter, more high-performance appearance to the car. The Mxv4's do feel great though, very smooth. Smoother than the Pilots, if I remember right.

Was your tech implying that this car had this problem when it rolled off the dealer's lot. It seems odd to think that people drove around in new $50k SC400's with chronic hesitation problems. When I first bought my car this wasn't happening. Didn't feel this until just after 100k. Is this just an alternative bandaid to buying a new EGR valve? Do you think a new EGR would clear up the problem?

I'd like a pic also. I thought for sure this problem was O2 related. I'll have to try it.

Well, if I can ever get my digital camera back from my friend I'll post some pics of my new leather. Just had it installed before Thanksgiving. Came out good. Definately different. It's thicker and has more of a grip. You dont slide like on the oem leather. Leather has more texture to it. It was very thirsty at first. It soaked up about half a bottle of meguiars conditioner. I'm happy with it. It was from www.leatherseats.com. They are usually always selling a kit on Ebay ($615). That's where I bought mine.

I'm sure there's a sensor for almost everything in this car. Sometimes I lift the hood and become almost frightened by the complicated array of sensors and other electronics. It just seems like it would create such a large margin for error. Amazed that I've had hardly any problems to speak of in four years of ownership... and I drive my car hard. The O2 (oxygen sensors) that I referred to are located in the exhaust system. Each exhaust pipe has one in front of the catalytic converter and one behind (4 total). I've heard from several people that the O2's behind the catalytics never go bad, so you may just want to try the two fronts first. Fortunately, I haven't heard of too many problems with sensors located in the engine compartment area. O2's located in the front section of the exhaust, constantly contend with extreme heat that ends up taking a toll over time. You also mentioned that you don't experience any problems when cold. I think the temperature at the O2 sensor has to reach above 330*C for it to kick-in and start controling the fuel mix. Sounds exactly like your deal.

What makes a race motor not hold up? Wouldn't they be more durable.

This almost sounds as if one of your O2 sensors may be getting lazy (fixing to go bad). A symptom of this would be what's referred to as "bucking". This is more noticeable at lower speeds and crusing at 55mph on the freeway. In full throttle it will feel smooth. When they get lazy they arent bad enough yet to necessarily trip the "check engine" light. It does seem kind of early for one of these to be going bad, but it happens. I started noticing this on my '93 at around 105k (132k now). I dont really worry about it. When it gets warmed up it feels better. If you are wanting to take care of this, the SC400 has four O2's. They run about $180.00 each on the net. I've decided to replace all four when the "check engine" light appears. So till then, I'm just driving.

Minus the stock SC300, what does it cost to do something like this? Thx

Whats a magnetic door protector?

BMW's bite!! In my opinion, German engineering has long been far over-rated. I knew a guy a few years back who sold his SC400 to get one of the 525 or 5??..something. What a mess. Always in the shop. A real nightmare. He eventually went back to Lexus. The BMW's feel great right off the lot but fail to hold up, costing an arm and a leg to keep them going. I hear Porsche has much improved since the mid 80's. One Porsche I will end up getting is the 1983 911SC. That's one of the exceptions in my book. Very fun car. Not real fast but a real blast to drive. Bullet-proof dependability. Will give years of fun. In 1984 the 911 became far too computerized and dependability greatly suffered. I hear they are a lot better now, but they are water-cooled. Just not the same. Also, who has $110,000.00 laying around for a car. I'd get a used Ferrari for that. The only thing I would own from BMW would be one of their big all-terrain motorcycles. That's one area that they are true leaders in the industry. The only other great example of German engineering that comes to mind would be the Mercedes 5 cyl Deisel. It is actually studied in college engineering courses. Totally bullet-proof. Other than the above examples, nothing else really comes to mind. Their reputation as great engineers is way over-rated. The Japanese are excellent at copying and, in my opinion, further improving exsisting designs. Anyway, I try to avoid buying anything German or French if at all possible. OK... I've ranted on long enough.

Well I just had my new leather kit installed and WOW!! The re-coned Nakamichis are sounding sweet. That rear seat has everything to do with the acoustics. So it looks like the re-coning can be a good deal. If anyone wants their speakers repaired, this guy really knows what he's doing and he is in high demand. I had to wait a while, but well worth having the orginal system back and sounding like it was intended to. As for the leather kit, I'll be posting some interior pics soon. It was purchased from www.leatherseats.com Came out a little different than the factory style but it's nice. Allen Speaker Reconing 919 W 19th St (The Heights) Houston, TX 77008 713-862-2747

Come to think of it, there was a place someone on here recommended where they took you arm as a core and would then send you a rebuilt one. Cant remember the cost. If I remember right the cost didnt seem too bad. Then all you would have to do is remove and install the arms. Maybe someone on here remembers the place. Search "rebuilt control arms".

You could take a road trip down to Houston and have my guy slap them on. lol $185 labor. Then again I ended up paying $200 for just the bushings, so who knows how much the labor really was. That kit probably has some sort of instructions. I know it required a hydrolic press or at least that's what my mechanic said. Good luck.

I believe that was my advice. Glad to hear it worked as good for you as it did for me. Techron is good chit. Just dont use too much, as I've had some guys tell me that it can cause valve problems (cant remember the explanantion). After you get it running good just treat with two back to back doses every 3-4k mi. And keep using premium Chevron.

Of course, as everyone could guess by now, I put Amzoil in mine. It's good "chit" man. lol

You ought to call them. I think that's for the whole front end. I just probably got screwed on mine. I had to buy mine quick and in a hurry locally.

I dont think KYB are as good as Tokicos but they may be softer. I dont think the SC's are really all that rough. Go test drive a Vette and get back to me. You may want to look more at the tires. Tires can drastically change the ride. Goodyear ComforTreads are about the smoothest you can get. An ultra smooth touring tire can really damper all the road noise and vibrations that you feel running high performance tires. Just remember, cornering and touring tires don't mix.

The most you could get out of exhaust and a higher-flow intake is like 15hp. You need to get supercharged!!!!!! But of course that will run ya quite a bit more than 1k.

Good to hear.