92Lex

Have you checked for leaks yet?

It depends on how much refridgerant your car needs your car needs and if that's all it needs.

Soup

The car seems to be running a little on the lean side because of the low CO measurements. You probably should check the EGR system first, to make sure that it's working correctly. Go buy a cheap hand vacuum pump from an auto parts store and use it to test the EGR valve/modulator. Pumping 91 octane gas will reduce the NOx emissions, slightly.

I can find a fix for you, for under 10g's. Semi-built motor, pushing well over 400whp. Decent styling (suspension make-over) and just the basic bread and butter. BTW, V8's are not able to make up for what a good FI system is able to net. I mean, 4 banger honda's are already pushing those numbers.

What were the CO2 and O2 readings? Off topic, but which part of San Jo are you from? I used to live off of Capitol and McLauhghlin.

Rx330driver's daddy

So, would you rather have a FI car or just a really nice looking ride? It's going to cost you nearly 10g's to properly turbo that car but it wouldn't look like you had 10g's invested into styling. Are you going for stunning looks or just a fun/fast car to drive?

NOx is caused by many things, not just a defective EGR valve. There are a ton of things that can cause elevated NOx levels like; a bad EGR valve, excessive internal carbon build up, warped cylinder head, decked cylinder head, low fuel pressure, vacuum leaks, defective MAF sensor, defective O2 sensors, defective catalytic converter, lean a/f ratios, defective EGR modulator, clogged EGR passages, clogged intake manifold EGR passages, defective ECU, advanced timing and the list can go on forever.

Can you scan and post the results of the test? I'm a certified auto/smog tech.

Who cares about which direction the distributor blade points to because it's not going to matter when your car doesn't start. Take a look at the back side of the distributor rotor and there should be a "bump" that matches the shape of the "groove" on the cam sprocket. Take a pic of the rotors and I'll show you what I mean. Yes, the RH idler is held on by a 10mm hex.

They seem perfect. I thought that you were worried about the crankshaft mark.

What's so hard about emailing me, or PM'ing me? Try it.....I'll reply.

LOL. Yeah, just make the first move. Not taking the chance, is risking everything. And bruised balls (via yourself) isn't so great either.

Not to flame you but those #'s seem low for that amount of boost. Don't get me wrong, those are great whp #'s!! I'm just really curious as to what octane yieled those #'s @ that level of boost...that car should be in the 500's

How much money do you have to play with? Is everything going to be done by yourself, or a shop? What are your goals?

Those pics from the LEXLS site were actually tooken/sweated by myself. So, any questions you may have should be asked, now. I meant that the distributor rotor should not free-wheel, without the bolts attached. It's possible that the distributor rotors are secured (by the bolts) and still be completely 180 degrees off of correct. How did you clean up the grooves on the o-rings? Who cares if they look new or what not? The gaskets only cost a few dollars...you've already invested plenty of time in your ride...do it the right way, and replace the gaskets.

Fat chick

I don't think that I would ever be able to part ways with my car...it's the best car I've ever owned. E39's are pretty, reliable and never they never talk back to you. How can you ask for more? Why did you decide on painting the bumper trim to match your car? I've been hesitant to paint mines because I think that it breaks up the beautiful lines on BMW's. I really like the clean look of the painted trim on newer bimmers, but I'm not too sure about M bumpers, though. Post up some more pics of your ride.

Were these numbers produced on stock internals? What dyno was it tested on? MAP, blow through or draw through set-up? Was the stock ECU remapped or was it tuned with a stand-alone system?

There is a raised portion (on the backside of the distributor cap) that fits into the groove on the distributor housing. You shouldn't be able to spin the distributor caps in circles in their housings, if installed correctly. The harmonic balancer tool is only needed for the removal of the pulley, not installation. It's probably already fully seated, just not at proper torque.

This is my theft deterent system... It's for sale. Wanna buy it?

Is it pegged there even when the key isn't at the "on" position? What are you using to determine that the CTS is sensing 174 degrees? Have you pulled out the thermostat and checked it? Would help if you could give more info.

Struts are like shock absorbers, a little more complex but basically the same idea. It's recommended that the strut mounts/bearing are replaced when the struts are replaced (convinience/insurance). So yeah, a strut is just a different type of shock absorber...get it?

Because he is a rapper.