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I had a common problem with my right rear door actuator. It kept getting weaker and weaker slowing down and eventually not working at all. I did a search on Lexus actuator on ebay and came up with an inexpensive universal actuator which you will see below in the installation instructions. When I opened up the panel in the door it seemed to be near impossible to install this new actuator in any way. After dinking around trying this or that. I decided I would attach the actuator rod to the manual locking cam lever on the old actuator to try and make the new actuator work. This requires leaving the old non functioning actuator and parts in place. 1. Drill a hole the same diameter as the new actuator rod in the wider part of the manual locking cam lever on the old actuator right next to the where the manual locking wire hooks up to the old actuator cam lever. 2. Cut the new actuator rod to fit your application. Bend the new actuator rod end the same way the manual locking wire is bent. Grind the rod end a little thinner as it is tight under the locking cam lever and it will rub on the housing otherwise. 3. Have the new actuator attached at the other end of the rod first. Attach the rod through the hole you made in the cam lever the same way as the manual locking wire is attached. 4. Reinstall the entire door locking mechanism back in the door leaving the actuator hanging out the access hole. 5. Attach the mounting strap to the new actuator using 2 long bolts place 2 spacers or multiple washers between the strap and the actuator this way you can put the actuator just inside the access hole in the door (spacing it carefully not to interfere with the power window) thus allowing you to screw the strap to the outer door panel. 6. You will need to cut a little of the white thin plastic protector shroud on the old actuator to make good clearance for the new actuator rod coming out through the door access hole. 7. Adjust the new actuator for locking and unlocking slack before fastening the mounting strap with screws to the door. 8. Splice the 2 new wires into the 2 larger wires coming off the old actuator (splice them in don't cut the old wires) (You may have to reverse the wires (before soldering or crimping) to make sure you have them unlocking & locking in sequence with the rest of the door locks) It actually works better than the original with shipping it costs less than 15.00 for the parts. I used lock washers on the bolts. It would probably be good to use locktight on all screws. I have no pictures, but If you read this carefully you know it can be done and is not very difficult. I haven't tried this on the front doors yet, but will eventually have to. I hope it goes as well for me... At least it wors for the back doors. Good Luck to you!... Indi

I've had ongoing issues with the driver's side window going up when it's supposed to go down, down when it's supposed to go up, or not moving. I removed the power window switch (there's a clip under where the lock/unlock button is), unplugged the assembly and took it apart. The four small Phillips head screws holding the light-covered cover are the ones you remove. Then, you'll see the circuit board. There are two relays on that board. The larger one is in the driver's side window circuit. It is marked CR2-12v. That's the culprit. After much searching, I found it on line. I replaced the one in my 170,000 mile '01 RX-300, reassembled everything and the window now works perfectly. Finally!! BTW, I bought two relays if anyone needs one and can't find it on their own. What a PITA that window has been...

Lucy in the sky with a Lexus!!

Congratulations on the new X3. Also, a quote from a Beatles song - Nice touch, :)

I recently bought a used 99 RX300 first thing I did replace the tranmission fluid afetr readign what you all were experiencigg. first thing I tried the drain, i unplugged the plug and let it drain it was ok but not alot of fluid so i took the whole trabsmission pan off(18 screws, easy to take out but pain in the neck and hands :s) after taking the pan out the filter is right there, now I knew there is fluid in the filter and on top of it, but it was not dripping alot so i took off the filter and replaced it with a new filter I bought online last week. Well!!! AFTER TAKING THE FILTER OUT THE WHOLE FLUID RUSHD OUT! It seemed that the filter was very dirty and great I did it right on time! Now that I tired drain and complete filter replacement I think replacign the filter every say 15000 is the best thing to do and it is cheap if you buy it online, the whole procedures took me 2 hrs most of the tiem trying to take out the 18 screws. Hope this helps...

I definitely support all of you in the fight against Lexus regardig your trans failures but I'm wondering what the numers of failures are percentage wise on 1st gen RX's? I'm guessing we hear of a fair amount of failures here on the list because its the first (and natural) inclination when facing a problem: See if someone else has experienced the problem as well. Let me say right now that I really do believe there is some kind of problem with these transmissions, the key would be to figure out what brings out the problem with some and not others. To boot , my money's not on frequent changes of trans fluid! Mine hasn't been changed in 40k miles (although it will be very soon) and I only did it once before that. It still runs great with no problems at all (LOUD knocking on wood there!) . Moreover on this list I've read accounts of people who do frequent changes still having failures. There's got to be some key connection between the failures, driving style, driving conditions, climate, build date or location?? You could really make a heck of a case to Lexus with some imperical data like that.

To Teslex The transmission problems you are having with your rx300 seems to be all to common....you did not list the symptoms or problems of the transmission..... I have a 99 rx300 awd it now has 110k on it but at the 80k mark I began having transmission trouble I was told the same as you 4500 to5000 dollars to replace it .....I thought this is rediculous for this vehicle this is a Lexus the transmission shud never give us this kind of problem... after a lot a research and trying a few different avenues this is what I found.... If your symptoms are neutralizing, it is in drive or reverse yet acts like it is in neutral..... most likely the screen filter is clogged......if you dont mind getting under you vehicle and getting alittle dirty you can drop your own fluid and clean the screen yourself and replace with new fluid....note the dealer charges about 300 dollars to do this they will also flush out all the old fluid which is about 15 qts......when I did this it was good for about 8 to 10 thousand miles and my rx started doing the same thing again....what was happening is the metal clutches were not getting the proper lubrication and the torque converter was not either.....so I had the dealer flush the transmission again and clean the screen filter and this time when I had them replace the fluid I added a product called TRANSMATIC this product thins the transmission fluid to help it get to the critical parts it should. So far I must say my transmission shifts like it was new..... Now I admit we should never have had this problem until after many more miles but we have it and I hope this helps you and others out there....good luck.. roanokebarry