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To close this loop, it wasn't just loose- but needed a new pulley- it had enough wobble that it wouldn't stay torqued- especially with AC on. Made it only 29 miles before a repeat. Don't know if the first "incident" was enough to add wear to the softer metal pulley- but a new one and new nut (and thread-locker was needed.)

It should be imbedded in the rear windshield.

I realize there are many posts and discussions here on doing this with the sealed tranny and the great details of gravity draining and refill and the explanation about the correct warmup temp to set the fluid level. All great info however I have a question. Assuming the tranny was correctly previously filled at the factory and never serviced, no leaks and thus at the correct level and car set up level. And also not discussing if service should be done based on mileage and years. Why not service this later model auto tranny when is fluid cold from over night set up on stands with over night cool down of fluid, then accurately measure the volume of gravity fluid drained with stand pipe removed, then replace standpipe and drain plug and refill with the same volume of fluid at the same cold temp of drained fluid (new fluid containers stored in same area as car)? And forget adding extra fluid then warmup to factory temp spec range and pull the drain plug and drain to a trickle. Thank you Pete

CoPilot: Starter vs. Water Pump Replacement Since both tasks are quite involved, it's generally a good idea to start with the starter replacement first. This is because the starter is located in a more accessible area compared to the water pump, which requires removing many components like the timing belt, pulleys, and possibly the intake manifold. By tackling the starter first, you'll avoid having to reassemble and then disassemble parts again. Cluster Gauge Map As for the cluster gauge map, I couldn't find a specific map for the 1991 Lexus LS400, but you might be able to find it in a repair manual or by contacting a Lexus dealership for detailed schematics.

Thank you for the reply copilot. I checked all the wiring, speakers all ohmed out good, all the voltages were good so no blown fuses. I determined the head unit must be bad, so I found a head unit on Ebay. I installed it and everything now works. When time allows I will troubleshoot the head unit and isolate the failing component. I still have other issues to work out, and will post on those topics so others can benefit from my restoration project.

I can say changing out the dash was a 2 day job and requires great patience and dedication the biggest thing is labelling and putting screws and bolts in a plastic ziplock bag and writing on it what they go to don’t just put all the stuff in one bag it will take several and don’t try and take short cuts remove what needs removed it will make the job much easier the job looks more intimidating than difficult

Most independent service shops can do a timing belt change, but I'm not sure if the same would be true of replacing a steering column. When researching indy shops, I would check telp.com and then ask any promising shops whether they have done similar work. Also, request a quote from your local Toyota dealership. Their rates are typically lower. Good luck!

My 4 month old to me SC430 lost power steering suddenly, with a clatter- but I limped 1 mile home. Turns out the nut on the power steering pulley was loose and it was spinning. Tightened it back to 33 FP, and all is back to normal. Is this a common occurrence? There doesn't seem to be much other than the nut on the Power Steering pulley pump. Or, should I just chalk it up to carelessness by the technician who replaced the timing belt 80 it so miles ago and quit worrying? Thanks in advance.

Problem solved. I bought a new cable & it fixed the issue. The strange thing is the cable I have been using works to charge the cell when plugging the cable into my laptop & also when using the receptacle adapter to plug into the wall socket but stopped working in the car. Thanks for all replies.

Hi, it is human to forget. Just had 100K Km service and 3 weeks later this warning lamp: Technician forgot to reset after changing oil and filter. Here I show you fuel prices on the little tax-free island I live on: It is a fantastic place, but come with a heavy transport price if wanting to take car to mainland when visiting family. But it sure is a beautiful island:

Thank you Dave, Had it reset with Toyota, but should it happen again, I now know how to fix that. Yes! Very nice island. What I find funny is, that of the millions of tourists coming here, maybe less than 1% see the beautiful places. Some of the finest places can only be reached on foot; if skilled and/or crazy enough also on mountain-bike, that is how I got there. Most tourists lay next to the hotel pools, the beach or live nightlife in bars and discos and have no idea what they are missing. We live in the part of the island where life is more quiet.

Nice island! You should be able to reset the oil change reminder, yourself. From CoPilot:

I am 55 year old female and I was able to fix the left side assembly brake light myself. Just follow the videos and you will have no problems. Worse part is the removal of 3 nuts inside the trunk panel. Rest was piece of cake. ANGEL

I would say that it is the latter. An improperly torqued nut can certainly loosen over time.

There are very few things in Samsung phones that cannot be removed with https://www.packagedisabler.com/ It is a paid app and it does function. Only app I have found efficient without needing a rooted phone. Since Android 14 more built-in app's are a bit easier to remove or block than before, but the disabler is easy to use. Buy the version that is only for Samsung phones. Have used it many years and in the beginning it was on Google Play Store, but being too efficient in the eyes of the companies putting bloat (spam) on the phones it no longer is there. Google is in the game to make money. Still use it on the Samsung phones in family. Removing factory built-in Facebook, Google Assistant and a lot of other apps that are nothing but time wasters.

Thanks for your suggestions RX400h. Yes it is very frustrating for sure. I did an update & also turned off Adaptive Battery as you suggested. Because the constant notification only happens when using the USB port in the RX console but not when using the same cable & plugging the cell into my laptop or wall socket (using the adapter) I'm guessing the cable is not the issue but if the above 2 ideas do not help I will try another cable. Again thanks for your time.

My 2021 Lexus ES 350 Manual lists no change interval for the tranny fluid. I realize it is a closed system and no dip stick to check level or color but there is wear on parts so no change stated is strange to my years with cars. So once the powertrain warranty is up Lexus is free of responsibility. Presently at 22.3k and 3 years since put in service in 9/04/2021. What is the consensus of the group for tranny fluid and I assume with filter change for normal driving in city and highway with an occasional Italian Tune Up with the gas pedal on the Interstate? Online recommendations are all over the place. Here is one mechanic that has done a lot of work on these cars - The Car Care Nut a Toyota/Lexus master mechanic of many years and now his own shop says 60k or 6 years what ever comes first. Clip here on his maintenance Thanks all

I would tend to agree with Ahmed. He does have lots of experience.

Your car is getting close to needing the coils and plugs (100k) replaced, per the owner's manual. Front ones easy and back ones harder. Your engine only needs to miss a very few times to trigger the light so you may not notice it. I would start there, and do not buy the cheap coils unless you want to do the job a second time. Sensors do get dirty so that is also worth checking.

Used the canister tool noted in post above on 10/18/24 @3:36pm The Tool works great and a good thing made of vanadium steel not cheap aluminum that breaks with tight filter canisters because the oil was last changed at Lexus of Wesley Park Fla about 7 months ago and installed excessively tight well beyond spec (on purpose ?). It took a 6 point 1/2" drive 15/16" hardened socket on a 18" breaker bar with a 3 ft extension bar (est 150 ft lb) to break it loose with several tries and some PB Blaster spray, Yikes! x 3. I installed @ 20 ft lbs spec is 18 ft lbs went a tad above. Used lots of oil on plastic threads and rubber O ring. If you want a tool that will not fail the one I used is it and will not break and last. Went with Mobil 1 0w 20 Advanced Fuel Econ + Lexus A1 filter (bought filter at Lexus)

PS this canister tool above measures 64.5mm across the flukes diameter. I tried a tool that measured 64.25 mm and it was too tight and would not engage the full depth of the tool. This was a tool of the same design as the one noted in the post above different manufacture.

Finally did the transmission strainer and 6 quart exchange of transmission fluid. The greatest challenge was to get access to the front 2 pan bolts due to the transmission support. Managed to get a 10mm open wrench on them and slowly got them out. About 2 months ago the battery went bad so the transmission was rebooted and that helped the smoothness of shifting. The 6 quart flushed helped a bit more. I set the reminder for another 30K and wont be as fearful next time

Looking for a mesh grill replacement (not insert or overlay) for my 2007 ES350, located in LA. Willing to pay for shipping. Please reply to this forum if interested!

Looks like you need Lexus P/N 81615-87705. They look to be still available. https://parts.lexusofpleasanton.com/p/Lexus_1991_LS-400/SOCKET-WIRE-SUB-ASSEMBLY-FRONT-TURN-SIGNAL-LAMP-BODY-SPOT-LAMP/63367916/8161587705.html You don't have to buy it from the link above. I don't know why this isn't a more common, "get it anywhere" part.

new speakers for my 2002 sc430

There is nothing wrong with any of your cars. that smell is a byproduct of the sulfur that is in the fuel............all fuel. Changing brands will not do one bit of good. For a little knowledge of how a modern ecu in a car works... 99% of your driving is done in whats called "closed loop" mode... the ecu looks at airflow from the mass air sensor, estimates the engines fuel requirements by plotting airflow, rpm and engine load on a preset fuel map and opens the injectors for that set amount of time... it then looks at the data from the oxygen sensors to see how completely burnt the fuel was - the more burnt it was, the leaner the mix, the less burnt, the richer the mix... it measures the oxygen content in the exhaust to do this, and it is looking for stoichiometric, which is 14.7 parts air to 1 part fuel ratio... anything below this is rich, anything above is lean - lean is good for fuel mileage, but not so good for keeping an engine healthy... once it sees how good the map was at estimating fuel requirements, then it modifies it... typically it will shoot rich, see if it was rich, then it will shoot a little leaner, see how well it does, then rich, then lean - its almost impossible to get it perfect every time, so it bounces from rich to lean pretty consistently... this is why an air/fuel ratio gauge bounces back and forth while at idle or cruise... Now....for those times when you want to smoke the Beamer or Benz next to you, (1%) of driving is done in whats called "open loop" mode... this is reserved for high amounts of throttle or wide open throttle... here, the computer abandons the oxygen sensor readings and only looks at the airflow and its preset map... because oxygen sensors are only accurate at stoichiometric (unless you have a wideband, which most cars do not come with from the factory), the programmers of the ecu decided that to save the health of the engine, they would shoot for somewhere between 10:1 and 12.5:1 for high loads on the engine....ok, so, open loop, no feedback from the oxygen sensors because we are operating outside of their accuracy range... also, a byproduct of this is that unburnt fuel makes it through the engine, sometimes to be somewhat reburnt in the catalytic converter making it get real hot... so, real hot catalytic converter plus sulfur in the unburnt fuel equals bad smelling exhaust, rotten eggs, to be specific... It is not bad and it is not going to hurt anything - high temperatures can actually help keep a catalytic converter free from contaminants.