Recommended Posts

what can i do to make my car stop doing this.... i have great tires and i dont wanna use aftermarket shocks cause i love the confort of oem... so under this parameters what do you people suggest? thanks 

i was thinking maybe wider tires could help but im afraid the handling would not be as crisp specially in the front...

thoughts? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Whether a car mainly understeers, oversteers or has more neutral handling is mainly due to weight distribution, front-to-back tire/wheel size and tire inflation.  Front engine cars with transmissions connected to their engines usually understeer.  Cars with rear engines and transmissions (e.g. RWD Porsche 911) are prone to oversteering.  Mid engine cars exist largely to provide more neutral handling allowing both understeering and oversteering at the control (and skill!) of the driver.  Some manufacturers (e.g. Alfa Romero) went so far as to use front engines and rear transaxles to get more neutral handling.

Aftermarket shock absorbers / dampers will not reduce understeer.  Different tires are not going to help either although some front engine vehicles (e.g. Lexus IS350) have larger tires and sometimes wider wheels on the back that somewhat reduce understeer.

I've driven several GS sedans similar to yours and remember them handling much like the LS400's I drove over a 24 year period.  They are not what I would call nimble but these are fairly large and heavy cars.  They handle quite well for what they are.

My main suggestion is to monitor your tire pressures.  Follow the placard on the driver door post and don't get carried away with too much pressure.  Be aware that tire pressure changes on its own about 1 psi for each 10 degrees Fahrenheit of temperature change.  I find myself adjusting tire pressures far more often in Winter than the rest of the year.  This being Winter and you being in Nebraska, I would hope you would be driving on winter tires on your GS if you are using it at all and would not be very concerned with handling.  Winter tires almost always have much worse dry traction than all-season and summer tires so one has to be careful to drive more carefully when using them.

My wife was born in Nebraska - Sioux Falls.  BRRR!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

    • By Yogi1958
      New to this Lexus ES 350 Club: I always said I'd own a Lexus by the time I turned 60 (just as my Dad said he would own a Lincoln by the time he turned 60 - and he did). 2 weeks ago (and 5 months before my 60th bd), I did it. I now own a Deep Sea Blue Mica 2015 ES 350 with 44k miles in excellent shape. Prior to this, I drove a Toyota Avalon Limited, and I thought the ride could not be any more quiet or more smooth. I was wrong. The Lexus is far and away more solid, quiet, comfortable and smooth. I made a great choice for under $24k.

    • By 04lexusrx33O
      Hello! My name is Jake and I have an 04 RX330 with 230,000 miles on it. Not certain on the history of it but I have gotten it with no heat and an overheating problem(EDIT: previous owners said it has overheated on them). I immediately knocked out the easy stuff, checked coolant levels, verified fans were working. So I end up doing serious work that it needed: waterpump, timing belt, power steering pump, upper/lower intake gaskets, thermostat(THM 117-$11.32 at napa), valve cover gaskets, spark plugs. I end up finding smoke swirling out of a crack in the radiator while the car was idling for an hour during a fuel injector decarbonizing process. I end up replacing the radiator as well as the fan motors with the relay because the fans wouldn't turn on. I ended up using a power probe straight to the old fan motors and only fan #2 worked. I end up putting it all together-bled all of the air out of the cooling system with an airlift evacuation tool-and this thing is still overheating! Today I pulled it in and put the scantool on it-temp reads 244 degrees, so it's up there. I take a laser thermometer gun and the passenger-side (or upper hose) of the radiator read 183 degrees give or take and the part of the intake that the sensor screws into was around the same. So I thought it's only a $20 sensor, and replaced it-also considering it had a previous P0117 code(engine coolant temperature circuit low input). I know when the DTC is aiming at the input part of a circuit, it's talking about something with the sensor. I thought this would do it, BUT the car still overheats via gauge. Good news was I had heat, so I'd blast it when it starts climbing up and it'd slowly go down. I'm really stumped now, because I know the heater core acts as a mini radiator, but it doesn't make sense that the heatercore cools the engine down but not the fans and radiator being fully functional. The upper heater hose is piping hot with pressure but the lower hose is room temperature with pressure, I verified by squeezing the hoses. Is the thermostat defective? I installed it with the wobbler pin positioned at the top via installation instructions. I feel like I might run a compression test tomorrow to check the head gaskets, but I feel like I'm missing another sensor or something-I'm a freshman in college so anyone with experience I'd greatly appreciate it! 
    • By ez12a
      Hey All,
      Just wanted to share some video DIYs i created when I did the 120k mile service on my GS350. 
      Here's how to replace spark plugs:
       
    • By AKAP
      Anyone with an LFA on the east coast want to do an LFA only meetup / drive event?