Hi, I’m thinking about purchasing a 2007 Lexus ES from this dealership, it has 168,500 miles on it. I’m looking to buy the Lexus with cash. The dealership said they’d take 4k cash plus taxes, but I think they’d take a bit less. If everything with the Lexus is fine meaning it seems to be mechanically fine, the exterior looks fine and so on, should I go ahead and buy it? I know that these Lexus’s are really good cars especially this gen. I thought I’d ask people that may know about cars than I do. (It’s one of those really big Nissan dealerships.) Could someone let me know common problems with this gen of Lexus’ too or problems they’ve had? And overall just let me know if the car is worth buying, Thanks! (No I have not checked the car out yet I live 2hrs away from where it is)
So in the attached image you can see the list of dtcs I have on a 2000 rx 300 AWD
I have tested coils and replaced spark plugs on 2-4-6, all should be in perfect shape.
I have tested unplugging the coils I could easily access with the entire intake assembled, which seemed to not affect the idle, leading me to believe that perhaps those spark plugs in the back are no good.
I am going to head back out now to work on getting to and replacing the 1-3-5 spark plugs, if I can manage.
1. With the intake and throttle body(s?) removed, is it worth any attempt to remove the o2 sensor from above? I tried from below several times, with PB blaster let to sit overnight, to no avail.
2. As I was taking off the intake filter lid, I could swear that one of the two "vacuum" hoses directly behind it, may have been unattached. I followed the one that is attached and it seems to lead to the Fuel Injector rail for 2-4-6. With this logic, would it make sense that the other tube leads to 1-3-5 injectors, and all this could have been from the vacuum leak causing those cylinders to run lean/misfire?
3. Is there anything else I should check while I have the throttle body's off (and cleaned up beautifully) like the MAF, etc? I do have a multimeter, but I have only tried using it a couple of times and am not 100% on which items to check for which values.
4. Is there anyone here with any insight on what values to check on my Code Scanner's "Live Data"? I found a great OBD2 scanner, but I don't know how to use these tools to verify the fix...
My plan now is to replace the 1-3-5 spark plugs, reassemple the intake, verifying all connections are made and see how she runs... but I will work at the o2 sensor or anything else possible, while it's apart.
Thank you if you read this! I am new to the forum, as I just purchased this car for my wife, so thanks in advance, if anyone hears this!
At about 2am at night my car starting randomly ticking. It wasn't running or anything. After I unlocked it to try and start it, it started making the same ticking noise and wouldn't start. When I turned off the ignition the noise started again. It was coming from around the bottom of the firewall, between the engine and transmission. I touched the battery and it was awefully warm so I took off the positive terminal and it stopped. I would guess it's the starter but I don't know why it would do that so randomly.
Edit: it did the same thing about 15 minutes ago, but this time the lights were flashing and siren went off. Can it be the antitheft?
Here's how it sounds. With ignition and keys out.
I need to replace the passenger rear bearing hub assembly on my 2004 Lexus RX 330 AWD. The car makes a loud hum as you increase speed and continues at speed. There are several manufacturers of the replacement assembly. Some start at $30 and go all the way up to $150. In my research I found that NSK brand is OEM. But here is my question. NSK offers two assemblies. One is around $85. The other one is around $110 but comes with a built in sensor of some sort. Can anyone tell me which one I need? Any help will be much appreciated!!
Thank you in advance.