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I almost hesitate to post this in the light of all the high-tech methods listed above, but for a fast and thorough windshield cleaning I've always used a standard toothpaste (Crest, Colgate, etc) rubbed on with a synthetic sponge. Toothpastes are basically just polishing clays suspended in a water-soluable base (avoid the gels and bleaching products like Rembrandt, etc). They're also inexpensive, rinse clean, and leave your car smelling minty-fresh :)

Just kidding about the smell, but seriously they do an excellent job of removing all manner of road film safely and quickly.

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The best product I've used is Zaino.... check out their web site. The product works great..... http://store.yahoo.com/cgi-bin/clink?autopia+j5Bvf9+index.html+LEXUSOC10

Mark

Yes, without a doubt. Experience the difference http://store.yahoo.com/cgi-bin/clink?autopia+j5Bvf9+index.html+LEXUSOC10

A polish, not a wax.

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Actually its a sealant, not a polish. A polish is something that smoothes and cleans the paints surface either with oils, light abrasives, chemicals or a combination of the three. Zaino's description of their product as a "polish" is not accurate. Its a synthetic polymer sealant. P21S Gloss Enhancing Paintwork Cleanser, Meguiars #7, #9, #80 etc are all polishes.

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Actually its a sealant, not a polish. A polish is something that smoothes and cleans the paints surface either with oils, light abrasives, chemicals or a combination of the three. Zaino's description of their product as a "polish" is not accurate. Its a synthetic polymer sealant. P21S Gloss Enhancing Paintwork Cleanser, Meguiars #7, #9, #80 etc are all polishes.

They can call it Melted Gumby in a fricken jar for all I care, ....the shizt werkz! ...and I don't have a dic tionary.
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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...
Hey everybody, just wanted to get the traffic moving a little bit in the detailing forum.

I wanted to start this thread up and give everyone a place to share those little tricks of the trade they've picked up over the years. Please, post away!

Blower is good for pre-vacuuming ease too...open the doors and blow her out first. (could apply to sexual foreplay too...let us know.) :blush:

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Blower is good for pre-vacuuming ease too...open the doors and blow her out first. (could apply to sexual foreplay too...let us know.)  :blushing:

Boy, does it ever... :whistles:

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  • 3 months later...

Cleaning mats and carpets: Little Green Machine. Easy to measure (more is not better!) cleaning solution as it is marked on the tank. It is small and the one that comes with the heating element is worth the extra 5 dollars. Buy only the solution for use in the little machine.

Does a fabulous job. My aunt had a rotten tangerine under her seat and it was black and was part of the grey carpet by the time I found it. I didn't have much hope for it coming out totally. Gone without a trace.

rosie

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  • 2 weeks later...

I was shocked to see the damage I had done to my rear bumper when I accidently backed into a stucco covered block wall - although I just "kissed it gently" the plastic was scatched - much like when you scrape your skin on concrete. I would call it more than a scratch. What do you suggest I do? Is this a repair job for a good body shop? Is this something I could do on my own?....my guess its for the pros.....Thanks...

Quote: could anyone provide some info on the best scratch removers..!!! would be helpful in here.

~One mans opinion / observation~

Virtually all painted surfaces succumb to one or more of these unsightly blemishes. They can be caused by any number of things: kicked-up road debris, uncovered gravel trucks, keying or other types of vandalism, etc. They are not only aesthetically unsightly; the exposed metal is subject to rusting. Vehicles that have a chipped or scratched paint film surface usually affect its re-sale and/or trade-in value.

Before deciding upon treatment, you should first access how deep the scratch is and how badly the paint film surface is compromised.

a)Surface scratch: probable cause is by automatic car wash or poor cleaning /techniques. This kind of damage is usually confined to the clear coat, and can usually be rectified with a pre-wax cleaner or polish.

b)Visible abrasions: dragging an object across the top of the trunk lid often causes this kind of damage, or careless use of the car keys, or even fingernails around the door handles. They can usually be rectified with a slightly abrasive pre-wax cleaner or polish.

c)Visible damage: if the scratches show a black or white colour it probably means that it’s compromised the paint system through to the primer. They can usually be rectified by thoroughly cleaning the affected area, then apply a rust preventative primer before the application of both a colour and clear coat with a slightly abrasive pre-wax cleaner or polish.

To repair paint chips and deeper scratches that have compromised the vehicles paint system through to the primer coat. Ensure a surface temperature of >600F and allow each coat of paint to dry >2-3 hours

Clean-paint-sand level, polish and protect

·Establish the vehicles paint colour code that can be found on a plaque in the engine compartment or from your vehicle dealership.

·Purchase a touch-up paint from the dealership or a touch-up pen from AutoSharp pen (autosharpen.com)

·Test the paint in an inconspicuous area before using to ensure colour match

·Use a cleaning product that will clean the area of oil, crease, dirt, polish and wax (P21S Total Auto Wash)

·Use a sanding block and 1200 grit paper (Meguirer’s Unigrit Block), soak the block and paper overnight, with a water / soap solution 6:1 for lubrication, or a spot sanding tool (Griot’s P/N 50875) using a light to medium pressure to clean any surface rust or deposits of dirt or wax/polish.

·Soak the area to be repaired with the lubrication solution and keep it well lubricated while sanding

·Once the area is thoroughly cleaned, apply a primer using a touch-up paint applicator (Groit’s P/N 50406)

·Dip the tip of the applicator into the primer and gently touch the paint chip with the tip of the applicator. Should you over-fill; use a clean applicator to soak up any excess.

·Once the primer is thoroughly dry, using either the paint applicator, not the oversized brush that comes with the manufactures touch-up paint, or an AutoSharp Pen touch-up paint applicator.  The pen features a felt tipped applicator that allows you to literally "colour" the damage away.

·Allow each coat of applied paint to dry for >2-3 hours before the application of subsequent coats

·Use a back and forth motion with the sanding block and paper (do not use circular movements) smooth out the repair and ensure that it is level with the paint film surface Try to limit sanding to the immediate area of the repair

·Use a mild polish to restore surface gloss after carefully rinsing away surface and finish by applying wax / sealant protection

Notes:

1.Avoid driving vehicle for about 24 hours after completing repairs and wait approximately 14 days before the application of polish and final protection

2.Thoroughly mix paint in a small plastic cup to ensure even mixing / colour

3.Apply a small amount of paint at a time and allow air-drying for 2-3 hours before the application of further coats.

4.Apply multiple coats of colour paint, not one heavy application and you will obtain a far better finish

~Hope this helps~

Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/

justadumbarchitect * so i question everything*

:cheers:

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Sadly I just did this too...

Hitting it with a buffer helps, made mine look a LOT better, but it probably is going to have to be totally repainted. Mine goes in today.

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  • 4 months later...
  • 8 months later...

Don't know if it's been covered - A few minor tips:

A soft white drafting eraser (block or pen type) is great for getting wax and dirt out of black trim that accidentally gets run over with wax no matter how careful you are. Masking these areas with blue painters tape works before applying wax.

I buy cheap sponges to apply tire dressing & Armor All and put them in a zip lock bag until they get dirty, then toss them. It saves my washing machine since I no longer use rags. My wife was complaining about some of our clothes getting ruined after she washed my "car towels" because of the petrol-based chemicals on the dirty rags/towels.

When I was in Germany, the locals purchased 100% cotten in s-rolled bags to remove wax. You simply tear off a wad and remove the wax and toss it. Again saves on the washing machine.

Thank heaven for microfiber. I bought 50 rags at a CostCo for less than $20.

I keep the carpet and floor mats scotch guarded.

Have trouble figuring out whether those pesky glass streaks are in or out? Clean the inside windows horizontal (helps on the rear window defogger) and the outside windows vertical. Newspaper used to work great for windows but with all of the light cloth interior trim around the "A" pillars I would think the ink would ruin the material.

v/r Greg

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  • 6 months later...

I use Zaino Products. They have a great starter kit and can be purchased online. You will use everything in the kit.

A clay bar comes with the kit and it will remove all the day to day grime from your paint. Well worth the time.

Make sure you put the wax on as thin as possible. 1 oz should do you entire car 2-3 coats. The first coat is the hardest to apply and it will get easier as you continue.

The finish will deepen as more coats are applied. Suggest using microfiber cloths to apply and remove.

I get a lot of comments that my LS430 is a great looking new car and it is a 2001 model.

I have also become good friends with my PDR "paintless dent repair' guy. 20-50 bucks and you have a flawless car.

as jab in the gut... My LS430 is much nicer than my S500 / S430 , better ride.

Also recommed Sewell Lexus if you live in the DFW Metroplex. :rolleyes:

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Don't know if it's been covered - A few minor tips:

A soft white drafting eraser (block or pen type) is great for getting wax and dirt out of black trim that accidentally gets run over with wax no matter how careful you are. Masking these areas with blue painters tape works before applying wax.

I buy cheap sponges to apply tire dressing & Armor All and put them in a zip lock bag until they get dirty, then toss them. It saves my washing machine since I no longer use rags. My wife was complaining about some of our clothes getting ruined after she washed my "car towels" because of the petrol-based chemicals on the dirty rags/towels.

When I was in Germany, the locals purchased 100% cotten in s-rolled bags to remove wax. You simply tear off a wad and remove the wax and toss it. Again saves on the washing machine.

Thank heaven for microfiber. I bought 50 rags at a CostCo for less than $20.

I keep the carpet and floor mats scotch guarded.

Have trouble figuring out whether those pesky glass streaks are in or out? Clean the inside windows horizontal (helps on the rear window defogger) and the outside windows vertical. Newspaper used to work great for windows but with all of the light cloth interior trim around the "A" pillars I would think the ink would ruin the material.

v/r Greg

Greg,

I recommend Invisable Glass which can be purchased at Sam's Club and Spray the cleaner on a micro fiber towel (buy American Made Cotton) and there will be no streaks on you glass. Great product for home use also.

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New owner of IS, how do you clean that suede/soft cotton interior stuff that is all over walls and ceiling? That stuff picks up all sorts of finger prints and I have tried to clean similiar materials before and it just smudged.

I would like to know this as well.

I'm a new owner of a 2004 black RX-330 and have some smudges on the cloth.

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  • 1 year later...
  • 1 month later...
Hey everybody, just wanted to get the traffic moving a little bit in the detailing forum.

I wanted to start this thread up and give everyone a place to share those little tricks of the trade they've picked up over the years. Please, post away!

New '09 ES350 purchased 12/17/08...and I started noticing dust on the dash, around the knobs, plastic, etc. Ddin't find an answer here (although I got some of the best detailing tips ever). So, I went to a few auto parts stores and looked at some 2 dollar detailing brushes. Not wanting to use a $2 brush on my baby, I went to Longs (drugstore) and bought a $15 makeup brush (YES, very embarassing) that is so soft, it does the job perfect. Along with the tips to get the Sonus products, I'm a happy camper with a detailed car.

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  • 3 months later...
Hey everybody, just wanted to get the traffic moving a little bit in the detailing forum.

I wanted to start this thread up and give everyone a place to share those little tricks of the trade they've picked up over the years. Please, post away!

New '09 ES350 purchased 12/17/08...and I started noticing dust on the dash, around the knobs, plastic, etc. Ddin't find an answer here (although I got some of the best detailing tips ever). So, I went to a few auto parts stores and looked at some 2 dollar detailing brushes. Not wanting to use a $2 brush on my baby, I went to Longs (drugstore) and bought a $15 makeup brush (YES, very embarassing) that is so soft, it does the job perfect. Along with the tips to get the Sonus products, I'm a happy camper with a detailed car.

Have you noticed some of the cars with plastic headlamp covers oxidized so bad you wonder if any light at all is coming out. Had one on my SC400, went to Pep Boys and bought a headlamp lense restorer. Does awesome jpb. A point of caution: don't get in a hurry, spend a little extra time on applying the clarfyer and if at all possible, avoid using the little pads included in the kit; they could scratck the good work you have already done.

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  • 1 year later...

I have created a special version of my detailing guide for LexusOwnersClub.com members to download (free). The book normally sells for $14.95. The links in the book lead back to lexuscarcare.com, which supports this site.

To download the ebook (MS Windows format), browse to http://store.yahoo.com/cgi-bin/clink?autopia+j5Bvf9+index.html+LEXUSOC10 and save the file to your Windows Desktop. Click on the car icon to run. To view all chapters, please register your copy. Your name/email will only be used to notify you of new versions (2-3 times a year). A future version will be specific to LexusOwnersClub.com with all Lexus pictures and information.

Enjoy!

David Bynon

Hi Fellas,

I am new to this forum and came across the link to david's book but I am having trouble getting the download to work. Does anybody have an alternate link or source for the book? Thanks in advance.

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  • 4 years later...

I restored my sisters headlight's with this stuff that somebody turned me on to, it worked awesome, It took the yellow foggy color right out of the headlight's fast and left it on the rag, it couldn't be easy to use, plus it only cost me under $10 Go to LenzClear.com Best Headlight restore product I ever used.

10303473_1450560541863890_46375939226194

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  • 6 years later...

For baked on brake dust on alloy wheels I use Bar Keepers Friend as a paste with a tooth brush to gentely scrub it away. 

For plastics inside the car I use furniture polish instead of Armor All and the other products that leave things all slippery. 

For getting molding looking great I use Shin Etsu grease. A little bit goes a long way. 

When I wax my car I wax the windows to let me know when it's raining and I'm driving if it's time to wax the car. It also helps keep bugs from sticking as bad. 

For removing glues like when the rear view mirror falls off or the stuff left behing when removing logos finger nail polish remover works well. 

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