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Hey everybody, just wanted to get the traffic moving a little bit in the detailing forum.

I wanted to start this thread up and give everyone a place to share those little tricks of the trade they've picked up over the years. Please, post away!

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I've found for easy drying, use a leaf blower to blow the excess water out from around door jambs, emblems etc much like a carwash does, then just follow up with a microfiber towel.

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now if only i had a normal towel. i just use a nice soft cotton towel that doesn't leave that stuff from the towel on my car. i have trouble with waxing... trying to find the white wax that you sprayed on a white car is not the smartest idea... <_<

the best trick i've learned... is finding a free car wash coupon for Car Spa, taking it there, and opting for the $2 extra wheel detail cleaning. car looks beautiful on its way out. :)

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I've found for easy drying, use a leaf blower to blow the excess water out from around door jambs, emblems etc much like a carwash does, then just follow up with a microfiber towel.

this is a great idea - especially if you have an IS.

I swear the wing mirrors on that car were designed to retain water.

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Also, Microfiber towels are much better than cotton for almost everything. Waxing, polishing, drying, cleaning windows, they're really tough to beat. Ranney at Pakshak makes great ones at a great low cost.

www.pakshak.com

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I found that using Son of a Gun or Armour All with an old toothbrush gets the wax buildup out of cracks and then can be wiped clean woth a good rag.

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I don't have a leaf blower :( , but I do use my air compressor :magic: It gets rid of most of the water and any water in the nooks and crannies. I do get strange looks from my wife and neighbors though :blushing:

Microfiber towels are great! Great for buffing, polishing, removing wax. But after using microfiber "mitts", I would not recommend the microfiber mitts. Once they trap stuff in them, it is very difficult to rinse or remove the sediment off from them, increasing the likehood of scratches.

Happy detailing!

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Hi Steve...

Can not help but add my opinion to the detailing thread. The tip I would like to add concerns brake dust. I am sure everyone is familiar with the back breaking job of scrubbing that nasty dust off those wheels. The product I put on my wheels is called "Diamond Gloss." It is the same product that I apply to all the painted surfaces on my 1999 Gs300. I never have to scrub my wheels and my paint shines better than new. "Diamond Gloss" is applied by a Ziebart store (I know because I own a Ziebart store). This is not an ad, how many of you live in Albany NY.. where I am? It is just an informative forum on how to keep your car look GREAT!!

If you love bending over and cleaning your wheels every time you wash your car ... great keep it up. If you want a rinse and go... and a heck of alot less work ... try "Diamond Gloss" at your local Ziebart dealer.

Mark

(518) 459-6020

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hey all,

could anyone provide some info on the best scratch removers..!!! would be helpful in here.

:rolleyes:

i use mcguire or however u spell it for waxing my car and stuff and it works great since all u gotta do is spray and wipe.

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I have created a special version of my detailing guide for LexusOwnersClub.com members to download (free). The book normally sells for $14.95. The links in the book lead back to lexuscarcare.com, which supports this site.

To download the ebook (MS Windows format), browse to http://lexuscarcare.com/lib/lexuscarcare/AGTDLCC.EXE and save the file to your Windows Desktop. Click on the car icon to run. To view all chapters, please register your copy. Your name/email will only be used to notify you of new versions (2-3 times a year). A future version will be specific to LexusOwnersClub.com with all Lexus pictures and information.

Enjoy!

David Bynon

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David, what are the main differences between V2.0 and V3.01? There seems to be much more info in the V2 If I am not mistaken???

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~One mans opinion / observation~

Exposure to bugs, road oil and tar, and catalytic converter emissions makes automotive glass cleaning a challenge. I discourage the use of ammonia-based glass cleaners on your car; ammonia is harmful to many car surfaces including vinyl, rubber, and leather. As a substitute I prefer (Stoner’s Invisible Glass) or a citric acid, alcohol, or mechanical cleaner.

Put your hand in a plastic sandwich bag and lightly run your fingertips over the windshield's surface. Chances are, it will have a rough, gritty feel. Glass cleaners will not remove this grit, the method I use:

Outside glass –

1.Apply clay (Magic Clay) and lubricant solution (Woolite / Water 5:1) onto the glass surface (Do not apply to plastic as dulling may occur.)

2.Wash off any residue from glass and dry with a damp waffle weave towel

3.For ‘water spots’ use a water/distilled white vinegar solution, 5:1 (adjust ratio as required) to dissolve the alkaline-based mineral water deposits.

4.Apply a quarter size amount of Autoglym Car Glass Polish to a dry 100% cotton or Microfiber cloth

5.Apply to half of the windshield, polishing first in an up and down motion then in a left-to-right motion and then repeat on the other side.

6.Go over the glass several times in each direction. (Glass will polish virtually residue free.)

7.Wipe off any residue, and polish with a clean dry 100% cotton Microfiber cloth.

8.If any ‘water spots’ remain apply Distilled White Vinegar un-diluted to a 100% cotton micro fibre towel, using a medium/heavy pressure on glass surface.

9.If this does not remove the ‘water spots’ use Autoglym Car Glass Polish and #0000 steel wool.

10.Wipe off any residue from glass and dry with a damp waffle weave towel

11.Inspect glass for clarity and smoothness. Repeat if necessary.

12.Apply 303 Wiper Treatment to the wiper blades to clean, restore suppleness, eliminate wiper noise or ‘skipping’ and to avoid glass smearing. .

Inside glass –

Wipe glass with a damp waffle weave towel; apply Stoners Invisible Glass to 100% cotton Microfiber cloth and rub glass surface with a light to medium pressure (it will dry streak-free / lint-free and shining)

Plastic window –

Use same as ‘Inside glass’ above but use Plexus1Plastic Cleaner, Protectant and Polish. Safe for all types of clear and coloured plastics, Perspex, Lucite, Mylar (window tinting) and clear acrylics.

Rear window –

I use a Glass Master (it has two swivel paddle heads that fit on to a handle and comes with three bonnets, terry, and Microfiber and bug scrubber. This allows access to sloped rear window glass) to apply the Stoners Invisible Glass with a light to medium pressure (it will dry streak-free / lint-free and shining)

~Hope this helps~

Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/

justadumbarchitect * so i question everything*

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Glass Cleaning

Exposure to bugs, road oil and tar, and catalytic converter emissions makes automotive glass cleaning a challenge. I discourage the use of ammonia-based glass cleaners on your car; ammonia is harmful to many car surfaces including vinyl, rubber, and leather. As a substitute I prefer (Stoner’s Invisible Glass) or a citric acid, alcohol, or mechanical cleaner.

Put your hand in a plastic sandwich bag and lightly run your fingertips over the windshield's surface. Chances are, it will have a rough, gritty feel. Glass cleaners will not remove this grit, the method I use:

Outside glass –

1.Apply clay (Magic Clay) and lubricant solution (Woolite / Water 5:1) onto the glass surface (Do not apply to plastic as dulling may occur.)

2.Wash off any residue from glass and dry with a damp waffle weave towel

3.For ‘water spots’ use a water/distilled white vinegar solution, 5:1 (adjust ratio as required) to dissolve the alkaline-based mineral water deposits.

4.Apply a quarter size amount of Autoglym Car Glass Polish to a dry 100% cotton or Microfiber cloth

5.Apply to half of the windshield, polishing first in an up and down motion then in a left-to-right motion and then repeat on the other side.

6.Go over the glass several times in each direction. (Glass will polish virtually residue free.)

7.Wipe off any residue, and polish with a clean dry 100% cotton Microfiber cloth.

8.If any ‘water spots’ remain apply Distilled White Vinegar un-diluted to a 100% cotton micro fibre towel, using a medium/heavy pressure on glass surface.

9.If this does not remove the ‘water spots’ use Autoglym Car Glass Polish and #0000 steel wool.

10.Wipe off any residue from glass and dry with a damp waffle weave towel

11.Inspect glass for clarity and smoothness. Repeat if necessary.

12.Apply 303 Wiper Treatment to the wiper blades to clean, restore suppleness, eliminate wiper noise or ‘skipping’ and to avoid glass smearing. .

Inside glass –

Wipe glass with a damp waffle weave towel; apply Stoners Invisible Glass to 100% cotton Microfiber cloth and rub glass surface with a light to medium pressure (it will dry streak-free / lint-free and shining)

Plastic window –

Use same as ‘Inside glass’ above but use Plexus1Plastic Cleaner, Protectant and Polish. Safe for all types of clear and coloured plastics, Perspex, Lucite, Mylar (window tinting) and clear acrylics.

Rear window –

I use a Glass Master (it has two swivel paddle heads that fit on to a handle and comes with three bonnets, terry, and Microfiber and bug scrubber. This allows access to sloped rear window glass) to apply the Stoners Invisible Glass with a light to medium pressure (it will dry streak-free / lint-free and shining)

~Hope this helps~

Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/

justadumbarchitect * so i question everything*

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Quote: could anyone provide some info on the best scratch removers..!!! would be helpful in here.

~One mans opinion / observation~

Virtually all painted surfaces succumb to one or more of these unsightly blemishes. They can be caused by any number of things: kicked-up road debris, uncovered gravel trucks, keying or other types of vandalism, etc. They are not only aesthetically unsightly; the exposed metal is subject to rusting. Vehicles that have a chipped or scratched paint film surface usually affect its re-sale and/or trade-in value.

Before deciding upon treatment, you should first access how deep the scratch is and how badly the paint film surface is compromised.

a)Surface scratch: probable cause is by automatic car wash or poor cleaning /techniques. This kind of damage is usually confined to the clear coat, and can usually be rectified with a pre-wax cleaner or polish.

b)Visible abrasions: dragging an object across the top of the trunk lid often causes this kind of damage, or careless use of the car keys, or even fingernails around the door handles. They can usually be rectified with a slightly abrasive pre-wax cleaner or polish.

c)Visible damage: if the scratches show a black or white colour it probably means that it’s compromised the paint system through to the primer. They can usually be rectified by thoroughly cleaning the affected area, then apply a rust preventative primer before the application of both a colour and clear coat with a slightly abrasive pre-wax cleaner or polish.

To repair paint chips and deeper scratches that have compromised the vehicles paint system through to the primer coat. Ensure a surface temperature of >600F and allow each coat of paint to dry >2-3 hours

Clean-paint-sand level, polish and protect

·Establish the vehicles paint colour code that can be found on a plaque in the engine compartment or from your vehicle dealership.

·Purchase a touch-up paint from the dealership or a touch-up pen from AutoSharp pen (autosharpen.com)

·Test the paint in an inconspicuous area before using to ensure colour match

·Use a cleaning product that will clean the area of oil, crease, dirt, polish and wax (P21S Total Auto Wash)

·Use a sanding block and 1200 grit paper (Meguirer’s Unigrit Block), soak the block and paper overnight, with a water / soap solution 6:1 for lubrication, or a spot sanding tool (Griot’s P/N 50875) using a light to medium pressure to clean any surface rust or deposits of dirt or wax/polish.

·Soak the area to be repaired with the lubrication solution and keep it well lubricated while sanding

·Once the area is thoroughly cleaned, apply a primer using a touch-up paint applicator (Groit’s P/N 50406)

·Dip the tip of the applicator into the primer and gently touch the paint chip with the tip of the applicator. Should you over-fill; use a clean applicator to soak up any excess.

·Once the primer is thoroughly dry, using either the paint applicator, not the oversized brush that comes with the manufactures touch-up paint, or an AutoSharp Pen touch-up paint applicator. The pen features a felt tipped applicator that allows you to literally "colour" the damage away.

·Allow each coat of applied paint to dry for >2-3 hours before the application of subsequent coats

·Use a back and forth motion with the sanding block and paper (do not use circular movements) smooth out the repair and ensure that it is level with the paint film surface Try to limit sanding to the immediate area of the repair

·Use a mild polish to restore surface gloss after carefully rinsing away surface and finish by applying wax / sealant protection

Notes:

1.Avoid driving vehicle for about 24 hours after completing repairs and wait approximately 14 days before the application of polish and final protection

2.Thoroughly mix paint in a small plastic cup to ensure even mixing / colour

3.Apply a small amount of paint at a time and allow air-drying for 2-3 hours before the application of further coats.

4.Apply multiple coats of colour paint, not one heavy application and you will obtain a far better finish

~Hope this helps~

Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/

justadumbarchitect * so i question everything*

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Water Spots:

These are caused when the sun evaporates standing water on the vehicles surface and fall into one of two categories (see also Airborne Pollutants page 1)

a)Surface water spots: mineral deposits-high calcium content water or the water from a light summer shower that that dries on the surface leaving a calcium / sodium deposit.

These can be removed by using detailer's clay to remove any hardened surface deposits, and then using a solvent type cleaner (Klasse All-In-One) if the surface has been etched then a machine polish should be used to level the surface.

b)Below surface water spots: are caused by acid rain or industrial fallout, if left for any length of time they will etch the paint film surface leaving a circular mark.

These can usually be removed by using detailer's clay to remove any hardened surface deposits, use either a solvent type cleaner (Klasse All-In-One) to clean or a machine polish to level the surface

·For glass surfaces use Autoglym Glass Polish

·On paint surfaces us Iz Einzett TM Metallic Polish or Iz Einzett TM Paint Polish and reapply surface protection once spots have been removed)

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Just a couple of tips:

1) Don't forget the wheelwells. I apply Mop'n'Glo via a spray bottle (using a sponge or rag really gets your hands sticky and wastes more than you actually apply). And turning the front wheels all the way in one direction gives you much more space to clean wheelwells.

2) Zaino Z-10 (Leather In A Bottle) is a gerat product and not only protects and keeps your leather looking great, it keeps that smell of leather in the car for several weeks.

3) Don't forget to clean and "dress" your door seals, and clean and polish the door frames to keep the wind noise down.

4) You'd be amazed at the number of people who forget to clean the windshield wipers.

5) Never detail in clothes that have hard buttons, snaps, rivets, etc. No belts just cotton tee shirt and shorts that have a draw string or elastic.

6) When working on the car, always have one or two MF towels in your hand or pocket. That way when you want to lean on the car, you can lean on the towel. Stops the messy finger/hand/arm marks. And they make a handy cushion for putting bottles products down on the car without scratching.

7) Rolling stool for low body panels, bumpers, wheels........easy on the lower back.

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Just a couple of tips:

1) Don't forget the wheelwells. I apply Mop'n'Glo via a spray bottle (using a sponge or rag really gets your hands sticky and wastes more than you actually apply). And turning the front wheels all the way in one direction gives you much more space to clean wheelwells.

2) Zaino Z-10 (Leather In A Bottle) is a gerat product and not only protects and keeps your leather looking great, it keeps that smell of leather in the car for several weeks.

3) Don't forget to clean and "dress" your door seals, and clean and polish the door frames to keep the wind noise down.

4) You'd be amazed at the number of people who forget to clean the windshield wipers.

5) Never detail in clothes that have hard buttons, snaps, rivets, etc. No belts just cotton tee shirt and shorts that have a draw string or elastic.

6) When working on the car, always have one or two MF towels in your hand or pocket. That way when you want to lean on the car, you can lean on the towel. Stops the messy finger/hand/arm marks. And they make a handy cushion for putting bottles products down on the car without scratching.

7) Rolling stool for low body panels, bumpers, wheels........easy on the lower back.

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Just a couple of tips:

1) Don't forget the wheelwells. I apply Mop'n'Glo via a spray bottle (using a sponge or rag really gets your hands sticky and wastes more than you actually apply). And turning the front wheels all the way in one direction gives you much more space to clean wheelwells.

2) Zaino Z-10 (Leather In A Bottle) is a gerat product and not only protects and keeps your leather looking great, it keeps that smell of leather in the car for several weeks.

3) Don't forget to clean and "dress" your door seals, and clean and polish the door frames to keep the wind noise down.

4) You'd be amazed at the number of people who forget to clean the windshield wipers.

5) Never detail in clothes that have hard buttons, snaps, rivets, etc. No belts just cotton tee shirt and shorts that have a draw string or elastic.

6) When working on the car, always have one or two MF towels in your hand or pocket. That way when you want to lean on the car, you can lean on the towel. Stops the messy finger/hand/arm marks. And they make a handy cushion for putting bottles products down on the car without scratching.

7) Rolling stool for low body panels, bumpers, wheels........easy on the lower back.

What product do you recommend for cleaning and dressing down rubber around doors and sun roof? How about one of the Armor All products?

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303 Aerospace protectant is probbaly the best for that task.

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303 Aerospace protectant is probbaly the best for that task.

Can you tell us about your experience with 303 Aerospace Protectant and why you use it? Does it do a better job than several Armor All Products? And, where can I buy some? Lot's of Kragen and NAPA stores here in the Bay Area of northern California, along with the major retailers. Thanks. Rich

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Armor all is actually a pretty decent product nowadays as its not water based not solvent based. 303 is special (and expensive) because it actually molecularly bonds to the plastic material that its spread on and its the only protectant on the market that has been proven to actually have UV protective properties. Its used by Nasa and our government to protect plastic surfaces on fighter jets, ships, etc etc. You probably wont find it anywhere locally but your best bet would be to find a marine store or an outdoor store that sells kayaks.

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Hey everybody, just wanted to get the traffic moving a little bit in the detailing forum.

I wanted to start this thread up and give everyone a place to share those little tricks of the trade they've picked up over the years. Please, post away!

Steve,

I just joined recently when I took delivery on my 05 LS430. I have attempted about 10 times to get the free Detailing Book download, tried it at work at home on my kids computers, get the same thing " The Page Cannot be Displayed " I've checked all the parameters that is listed on the page e.g. change security setttings etc. still no luck can you help??

Thanks

Ben

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Hmm...not sure. Try downloading it from www.autopia-carcare.com its the same book.

Lemme see what I can find out.

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