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Hobowon

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Everything posted by Hobowon

  1. Big slam when slowing to stop - does it only when car is at idle speed just short of full stop (behind car in front, stopping at intersection, etc). If I can keep the rpms at the mark below the 1000 mark (consider the mark just below the 1000 mark), such as when the air is on or even when the tranny is in the "overdrive off" mode. Another way to avoid the "bang" is to make a harder stop; that isn't in line with my driving style but that is another way to avoid it. Lexus has checked it out four times, (Lexus) tranny fluid changed twice, have new drive shaft, differential mic'd and within limits, other gears tight, idle set by Lexus, throttle body cleaned. Sure could use some help and would be very grateful for suggestions. Thanks.
  2. On mine, the lense became oxidized so I went to Pep Boys and bought smething called headlamp restorer. Worked wonders. Not of caution: use and use and use the clarifyer and don't use the pads included in the kit if at all possible. You may end up with scratches. Really, the darn stuff works wonders.
  3. A note to the guys that get a machine: you should have no problem using the current ones on the market; steer clear of the ones that were common several years in the detail shops. You know, the ones that look like a 24 inch weedcutter. They will do an awesome job if know how to use one and if you don't, your paint will be toast. So, if gramps has one in the garage from "the old days" and wants you to have it, tell him you have a bad back and need something lighter. NEVER hurt your grand dads feelings.
  4. i try to use the paste whenever possible steve, as i work mostly by hand, hoever with waxes like gold class luquid and #26 you are right. with darker colors, letting these dry are a no-no. i find on my lighter colored car that if i dont let it dry, i get the same effect the OP is experiencing. BlackOnyx, i own a Black 2003 ES300, same as yours and trust me, everything that these guys have advised you on will get you the look you're looking for. Claying your car is crucial getting that "COTDAMMY!!" reaction. when i first bought my car i was ignorant to claying, polishing, and all the prep work one should do before applying wax. I would just wax my car with Meguires cleaner wax and call it a day. However, one day i went through the entire process, clay, polish, cleaner wax, yadda yadda, and ill tell ya the results were amazing! All that to say, CLAY YOUR CAR!!!! I have moved from OTC products, with the exception of claybars, and meguiars products. I love the clay-magic claybar, and its $13 at Autozone. But I love the poorboys line, as well as the SwissVax products. Take it from the guys who tell you to use the clay. I have been doing my cars for years and the day I began using the clay bar, was the day of enlightenment. I don't know what you have access to, but I bought the kit called "California Clay Bar" ($25, I think); remember, when you use it, don't be in a rush, don't think "a little pressure will do this much, what if I really give it (the clay) hell." Not only not necessry, but doesn't work as well as just plain ordinary pressure. AND: use the lubricant generously. I finish my jobs with a product called "Mothers Reflections." Got mine from Pep Boys for $17.95. Really awesome stuff; easy on and off and lasts. Great shine.
  5. New '09 ES350 purchased 12/17/08...and I started noticing dust on the dash, around the knobs, plastic, etc. Ddin't find an answer here (although I got some of the best detailing tips ever). So, I went to a few auto parts stores and looked at some 2 dollar detailing brushes. Not wanting to use a $2 brush on my baby, I went to Longs (drugstore) and bought a $15 makeup brush (YES, very embarassing) that is so soft, it does the job perfect. Along with the tips to get the Sonus products, I'm a happy camper with a detailed car. Have you noticed some of the cars with plastic headlamp covers oxidized so bad you wonder if any light at all is coming out. Had one on my SC400, went to Pep Boys and bought a headlamp lense restorer. Does awesome jpb. A point of caution: don't get in a hurry, spend a little extra time on applying the clarfyer and if at all possible, avoid using the little pads included in the kit; they could scratck the good work you have already done.
  6. I have always had a good experience with Midas. Don't know if you have any near you, but even if you want to install them yourself, maybe a local Midas will order them for you. Something I have had done on my SC400 and the last four autos is to have Monroe SensaTracs put on. Has all the stuff on you need in one package.
  7. ricfla, you are too cool. First, I would avoid even replacing the parking light assembly on my SC400; double the avoidance ragarding the headlamp. For the parking light assy, Lexus charged $65.00, if I recall. Anyway, just want to pass on a recent discovery relating to headlamps. You've seen the ones with the lenses oxidized? Lexus has a product for $29.95 that you can use just like polishing your car. Get it from Pep Boys, much cheaper. Word of warning: unless the lense is super oxidized, don't use the little pads. Try to hang with the clarifyer and take your time and be patient with the process. Mine turned out as clear as a new one. Thanks for your post, BTW.
  8. When I come to a rolling stop, just a few feet from the full stop and what appears to be when the RPMs drop to idle, I get a big slam in the differential. Won't occur if I do a more aggressive stop which is not my driving style; I typically come to a smooth rolling stop. Sometimes incident won't occur with the air on and overdrive off. Never does it if I come to a hard stop, not slamming on the brakes, but harder than a smooth stop. Now for the "rule outs: Lexus did a top end carbon blast and also cleaned the throttle body and air conditioning switch; idle speed verified to be at factory specs; got a new drive shaft whth front and rear couplers; Lexus removed the third member and sent it to LA for mic, came back within parameters; had tranny flushed, one mechanic questioned the rear stabilizers and (sort of) worn rubber bushings; strange as it may seem, when I have a tech do a ride with me, I can't duplicate the problem - one guy thought it might be the extra weight; maybe I should go to Home Depot and buy a couple of 100lb sacks of concrete an put it in the trunk. Everyone says the tranny is healthy. I have taken the car to two Lexus dealers, one automatic tranny shop and one Foreign car shop and no one can diagnose it. Recently, I came to a stop and I swear I thought it was going to blow the rear end out. Here is a "sorta like": come to a slow stop, the tranny gears down to idle speed, just before the full stop, look out!!! Gives me the notion the tranny "goes to sleep", then suddenly "wakes up" and says "gotta take up the slack." The way I try to describe to the techs is: short of stopping, slack is taken off the drive line, then gets taken up forcefully. Won't do it any speed but as described. BTW, the car has been well maintained, has 142k. Just a quickie: I recentlly discovered that if I disengage the overdrive (overdrive off), the sucker doesn't go "bang". I spoke to a guy at one of the repair shops that suggested it might be a defective overdrive unit. And woould you believe, Lexus does not sell only the unit - you have to buy the whole tranny. I will resolve this problem if it takes the rest of my life. Maybe I should consider just buying a tranny and get on with life. Anyway, I'm still open to suggestions, so bring 'em on down. Thanks.
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