Just Did A Brake Job On My Ls430

[JasonInDallas]

I just replaced my front pads yesterday, and since the rotors were fine I left them on. A few thoughts:

- The components are extremely beefy and substantial. Better than on any car I've owned and done a brake job on, including a 1998 5-series BMW and a 1998 Jaguar XJ8. Impressive stuff inside. No wonder these things stop so well.

- The electronic wear sensor is very similar to what BMW uses, except in this case it starts to wear well before the pads are worn. If I had known before I bought the pads, I would have simply removed the sensor and strapped it to the undercarriage and let the car go another 10-20K miles. But since I had the pads I just replaced them. If your dashboard wear sensor is illuminated, that means the sensor is worn and you'll need to buy a new one. I simply reused the old one as it hadn't yet worn through. On my car the sensor was on the passenger side (USA model).

- A traditional caliper depressor does not work due to the unique caliper design. I sort of used a prying method on the old pads while still in the calipers to depress the pistons (4-pistons at that!).

- I didn't bother measuring the rotors with my micrometer as they were barely worn. I guess the pads are pretty soft, and the rotors hard. This is unlike a BMW where when the pads are worn the rotors are shot as well.

- You'll definitely want a seperate stand to support the passenger side caliper while you remove the wear sensor.

- If you've done front pads on a modern car the LS430 will be easy enough, although it is in many ways different than any front brake system I've ever done and I've done a lot of them.

- Paid about $50 for the pads, I went with OE (not to be confused with OEM as so many people do).

- Pretty straightforward job, I could probably do it in well under an hour if I hurried, although I do have a comprehansive set of tools and some experience working on my own cars.

- My old cotter pins were in good shape so I reused them, a good thing since I didn't even know they were used for the LS brakes.

- So for an hour or two of work, even a novice can DIY an LS430 front brake job for well under $100.

FYI: A cordless electric drill with a 3/8" square drive is a huge timesaver when removing or replacing lug nuts. I use a 1/2" drive breaker bar to start them, then speed them off with the drill used like an air-driven speed wrench. If you have an air compressor at home this won't help you, but I don't so it's a huge timesaver. And since I already have the cordless drill with socket adapter out, I use it for speeding on and off the caliper mounting bolts (which on this car are extremely long and beefy).

[Harky]

Good Job Jason.

I just finished a complete brake job myself...including rotors.

The brakes had been rumbling. Car has 106K. I was pretty sure it was a warped rotor.

So I bought Brembos on-line. Replaced the front rotors while I did the strut rods. They looked pretty good...not much wear. Still rumbled! Strange, I was sure it would be the front rotors.

Replaced the rears and the rumble went away. They were quite worn. It's the first time I ever had to change out worn out rears. For most cars, they seem to last forever.

[Happidog]

Good Job Jason.

I just finished a complete brake job myself...including rotors.

The brakes had been rumbling. Car has 106K. I was pretty sure it was a warped rotor.

So I bought Brembos on-line. Replaced the front rotors while I did the strut rods. They looked pretty good...not much wear. Still rumbled! Strange, I was sure it would be the front rotors.

Replaced the rears and the rumble went away. They were quite worn. It's the first time I ever had to change out worn out rears. For most cars, they seem to last forever.

I just read about you replacing your rear rotors....I need to do that myself. I'm searching for a set of rotors to purchase and not sure what rotors are good ones that aren't too expensive. Also, when replacing the rear rotors, do I need to spread the calipers to fit the new thicker rotor...how difficult is this to do?

Thanks,

Steve

[Threadcutter]

Good Job Jason.

I just finished a complete brake job myself...including rotors.

The brakes had been rumbling. Car has 106K. I was pretty sure it was a warped rotor.

So I bought Brembos on-line. Replaced the front rotors while I did the strut rods. They looked pretty good...not much wear. Still rumbled! Strange, I was sure it would be the front rotors.

Replaced the rears and the rumble went away. They were quite worn. It's the first time I ever had to change out worn out rears. For most cars, they seem to last forever.

I just read about you replacing your rear rotors....I need to do that myself. I'm searching for a set of rotors to purchase and not sure what rotors are good ones that aren't too expensive. Also, when replacing the rear rotors, do I need to spread the calipers to fit the new thicker rotor...how difficult is this to do?

Thanks,

Steve

Happi:

Rear Brakes

If you get new rotors, be sure and hose them down with Brake Cleaner and wipe them off good to get all of the Cosmoline (preservative/rust preventative) off of them before installation. If not, you'll glaze your pads and probably have to start over.

If you've never done a disk brake job before, it's semi easy. If you've done them before, it's a catnap!........

[Happidog]

Good Job Jason.

I just finished a complete brake job myself...including rotors.

The brakes had been rumbling. Car has 106K. I was pretty sure it was a warped rotor.

So I bought Brembos on-line. Replaced the front rotors while I did the strut rods. They looked pretty good...not much wear. Still rumbled! Strange, I was sure it would be the front rotors.

Replaced the rears and the rumble went away. They were quite worn. It's the first time I ever had to change out worn out rears. For most cars, they seem to last forever.

I just read about you replacing your rear rotors....I need to do that myself. I'm searching for a set of rotors to purchase and not sure what rotors are good ones that aren't too expensive. Also, when replacing the rear rotors, do I need to spread the calipers to fit the new thicker rotor...how difficult is this to do?

Thanks,

Steve

Happi:

Rear Brakes

If you get new rotors, be sure and hose them down with Brake Cleaner and wipe them off good to get all of the Cosmoline (preservative/rust preventative) off of them before installation. If not, you'll glaze your pads and probably have to start over.

If you've never done a disk brake job before, it's semi easy. If you've done them before, it's a catnap!........

Thanks Threadcutter,

I've done the front rotors on an old Buick but not on a 1995 Lexus LS400. I'm hoping I can just remove the calipers, replace the rotors and slap the calipers back on without bleeding the system or readjusting the calipers!

[Threadcutter]

Good Job Jason.

I just finished a complete brake job myself...including rotors.

The brakes had been rumbling. Car has 106K. I was pretty sure it was a warped rotor.

So I bought Brembos on-line. Replaced the front rotors while I did the strut rods. They looked pretty good...not much wear. Still rumbled! Strange, I was sure it would be the front rotors.

Replaced the rears and the rumble went away. They were quite worn. It's the first time I ever had to change out worn out rears. For most cars, they seem to last forever.

I just read about you replacing your rear rotors....I need to do that myself. I'm searching for a set of rotors to purchase and not sure what rotors are good ones that aren't too expensive. Also, when replacing the rear rotors, do I need to spread the calipers to fit the new thicker rotor...how difficult is this to do?

Thanks,

Steve

Happi:

Rear Brakes

If you get new rotors, be sure and hose them down with Brake Cleaner and wipe them off good to get all of the Cosmoline (preservative/rust preventative) off of them before installation. If not, you'll glaze your pads and probably have to start over.

If you've never done a disk brake job before, it's semi easy. If you've done them before, it's a catnap!........

Thanks Threadcutter,

I've done the front rotors on an old Buick but not on a 1995 Lexus LS400. I'm hoping I can just remove the calipers, replace the rotors and slap the calipers back on without bleeding the system or readjusting the calipers!

Happi:

I hate to be the "cold, wet blanket", but you won't be able to get away with not "spreading" the calipers (it's probably more accurate to call it "compressing the calipers"). The reason is that as your shoes wear, the pistons move closer to each other, which is indicative of pad wear. When you put new pads on, they're thicker than the old ones and their won't be enough clearance without compressing the pistons. Just read the tutorial on the link I provided and you'll be fine.

[Harky]

Happi...Changing the rotors was easy. Go for it.

Pull the pad pins and compress the caliper pistons by prying on the old pads before you take them out...I do it wiby hand...no tools...it gets the pistons most of the way in. Just take off the calipers, and remove the two small centering screws on the rotors. TaDa. But be sure that you check your brake fluid reservior level, if the reservoir is full and you compress the pistons, the excess fluid can spill out over the top.

[Happidog]

Happi...Changing the rotors was easy. Go for it.

Pull the pad pins and compress the caliper pistons by prying on the old pads before you take them out...I do it wiby hand...no tools...it gets the pistons most of the way in. Just take off the calipers, and remove the two small centering screws on the rotors. TaDa. But be sure that you check your brake fluid reservior level, if the reservoir is full and you compress the pistons, the excess fluid can spill out over the top.

Thank you for the information!! I will do it as soon as I find a good deal on two rear rotors. I was gonna give Ebay a look, but not if they have good rotors for sale. Anyway thanks again for the help!!

Steve :)

[mannye]

Happi...Changing the rotors was easy. Go for it.

Pull the pad pins and compress the caliper pistons by prying on the old pads before you take them out...I do it wiby hand...no tools...it gets the pistons most of the way in. Just take off the calipers, and remove the two small centering screws on the rotors. TaDa. But be sure that you check your brake fluid reservior level, if the reservoir is full and you compress the pistons, the excess fluid can spill out over the top.

Thank you for the information!! I will do it as soon as I find a good deal on two rear rotors. I was gonna give Ebay a look, but not if they have good rotors for sale. Anyway thanks again for the help!!

Steve :)

WOw! That is a fantastic tutorial! I wish there was something like that for the 430! If there is anyone in the South Florida area that wants to start one, I'll pony up the parts, the car, the camera and the bandwidth (I have a web page that I'm doing nothing with). All I need is someone that knows what they are doing. My brakes are not quite ready for a change, but I'll do it anyway. Who's game? PM me!

[dcfish]

Happi...Changing the rotors was easy. Go for it.

Pull the pad pins and compress the caliper pistons by prying on the old pads before you take them out...I do it wiby hand...no tools...it gets the pistons most of the way in. Just take off the calipers, and remove the two small centering screws on the rotors. TaDa. But be sure that you check your brake fluid reservior level, if the reservoir is full and you compress the pistons, the excess fluid can spill out over the top.

Thank you for the information!! I will do it as soon as I find a good deal on two rear rotors. I was gonna give Ebay a look, but not if they have good rotors for sale. Anyway thanks again for the help!!

Steve :)

WOw! That is a fantastic tutorial! I wish there was something like that for the 430! If there is anyone in the South Florida area that wants to start one, I'll pony up the parts, the car, the camera and the bandwidth (I have a web page that I'm doing nothing with). All I need is someone that knows what they are doing. My brakes are not quite ready for a change, but I'll do it anyway. Who's game? PM me!

Here is some more info:

brakes_all_models.pdf

index.pdf98_ls400_brakes.pdf

index.pdf98_ls400_rear_brakes.pdf

[Guest]

Great thread Gents,

A few pointers on compressing the "caliper pistons" when replacing pads, you can remove the old ones and thne knock off the "friction" pad remaining and use the backing plate for a spreader to clamp to with your "C-clamp" or pry bar, this will balance the return of both pistons. Likewise you should do both inner and outer at the same time (slowly) if you have two clamping setups, as one will move against the other if you don't (can be done just takes longer to push the fluid back into the master cyclinder.

DOES ANYONE HAVE THE TORQUE SPECIFICATION FOR THE CALIPER MOUNTING BOLTS (2005 LS 430)???

Thanks,

Tim

[amcdonal86]

Happi...Changing the rotors was easy. Go for it.

Pull the pad pins and compress the caliper pistons by prying on the old pads before you take them out...I do it wiby hand...no tools...it gets the pistons most of the way in. Just take off the calipers, and remove the two small centering screws on the rotors. TaDa. But be sure that you check your brake fluid reservior level, if the reservoir is full and you compress the pistons, the excess fluid can spill out over the top.

Thank you for the information!! I will do it as soon as I find a good deal on two rear rotors. I was gonna give Ebay a look, but not if they have good rotors for sale. Anyway thanks again for the help!!

Steve :)

WOw! That is a fantastic tutorial! I wish there was something like that for the 430! If there is anyone in the South Florida area that wants to start one, I'll pony up the parts, the car, the camera and the bandwidth (I have a web page that I'm doing nothing with). All I need is someone that knows what they are doing. My brakes are not quite ready for a change, but I'll do it anyway. Who's game? PM me!

Here is some more info:

Does anyone have any idea what document those PDFs came out of? Thanks.

[amcdonal86]

Great thread Gents,

A few pointers on compressing the "caliper pistons" when replacing pads, you can remove the old ones and thne knock off the "friction" pad remaining and use the backing plate for a spreader to clamp to with your "C-clamp" or pry bar, this will balance the return of both pistons. Likewise you should do both inner and outer at the same time (slowly) if you have two clamping setups, as one will move against the other if you don't (can be done just takes longer to push the fluid back into the master cyclinder.

DOES ANYONE HAVE THE TORQUE SPECIFICATION FOR THE CALIPER MOUNTING BOLTS (2005 LS 430)???

Thanks,

Tim

The service manual I found says "Install the caliper. Install the 2 bolts and torque to 87 ft. lbs.)".

Hope this helps.