Timing Belt Change Parts

[96LS400 Owner]

I am getting ready to change the timing belt on my 1996 LS400 (53000 miles).

I plan on changing the following:

Timing belt

water pump

timing belt idler and pulley

drive belt tensioner

2 cam seals

1 crank seal

Cap and rotor

Plugs

wires

Where can I get these parts for the best deal (part numbers would be greatly appreciated) and am I missing anything?

My power steering pump has never been changed. I should change that too right?

Thanks a lot,

Chris

[j.barleycorn]

Hello, Chris, and welcome to the club !

Just curious why you're planning to do such an extensive (and expensive) maintenance, so early? 53,000 miles is hardly even broken in for an LS400! :)

Just my $.02, but if this is preventive, I would wait at least another 40,000 miles for the timing belt/water pump and related components.

Ditto, the cap, plugs and wires, and then only if necessary.

And I would not replace the power steering pump until it shows evidence of failure! Perhaps sometime around the 90,000 mile mark you can plan on flushing/screen cleaning, although if you read my thread you might think twice!

Again, just my opinion. I understand some folks like to replace stuff more than I do!

[Threadcutter]

Chris:

I agree completely, with Barley............What's up with that?...........is 53K accurate?...........why not wait until 90 to 100K?

Also, if you proceed, remember that you have an interference engine...............

[mmoazzam]

j.barleycorn............cannot disagree with you

[nc211]

Thread, are you sure his is the interference engine? I thought interference did not come about until the 98 + models when they introduced the variable timing to the engines, bumping up the HP. It was my understanding that until 98, all the engines were non-interference.

Chris:

I agree completely, with Barley............What's up with that?...........is 53K accurate?...........why not wait until 90 to 100K?

Also, if you proceed, remember that you have an interference engine...............

[Threadcutter]

nc:

Thread, are you sure his is the interference engine? I thought interference did not come about until the 98 + models when they introduced the variable timing to the engines, bumping up the HP. It was my understanding that until 98, all the engines were non-interference.

You are absolutely correct about 98+ VVTi engines being interference, so that's done & off the table.

You do realize that you're asking an unpoular question (and I'm going to offer an unpopular answer), don't you? The last thing I'm trying to be is a smart aleck, but I got flamed on prior posts for taking the position that '95 through '97 1UZFE are interference engines.

The answer is yes, I'm sure the 1995 through 1997 1UZFE engine IS AN INTERFERENCE ENGINE. My only real point here is that when a person is changing the timing belt/water pump/idlers/tensioner, lock off the cam sprockets so that they cannot turn, don't rotate the crank & go ahead & replace the belt/tensioner/idlers etc. In other words, play it safe, don't take any chances that valves can get smacked. Take a look back in history starting with this post;

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...ndpost&p=177119

[Shadow]

95LS and up are interference.

[nc211]

Interesting. I did not know that...Hmmm, learn something new everyday.....

cool, thanks guys.

[wandawoods]

Interesting. I did not know that...Hmmm, learn something new everyday.....

cool, thanks guys.

like you, I was under the impresion that 95~97 have NI engine. however, now I'm definately sold that 95 & up have interference engine because my 97 repair manual states so in black-n-white, and JPI also stated that the valves can touch pistons "slightly". so the advice is to play it safe than sorry.

96LS400-Owner,

changing TB at 53K seems very prematured. you can schedule that for 90k service. however, doing tuneup (inclduing caps/rotors/plugs/wires) is certainly great for 60k service.

[alsalih]

Actually I would recommend replacing the TB because of it's age in this case and not the mileage. Remeber rubber parts will deterioate with time and given that we ALL know that is an intereference engine I would replace it. If you don't believe me remove one side of the cam cover and look at the condition of the belt. In fact I also remember reading somewhere that the interval is 90K miles or 10 years, your at 10 years.

[96LS400 Owner]

Actually I would recommend replacing the TB because of it's age in this case and not the mileage. Remeber rubber parts will deterioate with time and given that we ALL know that is an intereference engine I would replace it. If you don't believe me remove one side of the cam cover and look at the condition of the belt. In fact I also remember reading somewhere that the interval is 90K miles or 10 years, your at 10 years.

I agree. The belt is ten years old and I do not want to risk anything. Please do not make this an interference / non-interference thread. There are plenty of those.

Can anyone tell me the part numbers and sources for parts at reasonable costs?

I am considering using an AC Delco belt. Any problems with this?

Thanks,

Chris

[Threadcutter]

96:

Can anyone tell me the part numbers and sources for parts at reasonable costs?

A lot of people on this board use these guys, myself included;

PPL

I am considering using an AC Delco belt. Any problems with this?

Probably not. My personal opinion is that if you are going to go to all the expense and effort, use the Lexus OEM part. PPL only charges $54.02, so it's not expensive. The AC Delco can't be much less than that.

[Kennyr]

Ok when I did my T-belt, water pump, idlers, plugs, caps and rotors & serp belt I had all aftermarket parts lined up on my work bench. These parts were way cheaper than the dealer parts. A couple hundred dollars cheaper. The plugs & idlers were oem (even though not purchased from the dealer), but the others were all different. The water pump fit good but when I went to put the timing belt on it was too short, also the Bosch plug wires were a joke. They fit terrible and the car would not run no matter how many times I checked and rechecked the firing order. I had to run to the dealer to buy the correct t-belt to get the car running with the old plug wires. The dealer ordered new plug wires for me and a couple days later I installed them. Bottom line, I did save a hundred or two but you decide if it was worth the trouble. I think not. When you use aftermarket parts every once in a while your gonna get burned and doing an ugly job like this is not the time you want it to happen. 45,000 miles later everything is still working as expected.

[alsalih]

Stick with the OEM belt. I doubt that AC Delco makes their own belts, but the important thing is that the belt is highly saturated nitrile rubber (should have the markings H-NBR somehwere on the belt).

[96LS400 Owner]

Stick with the OEM belt. I doubt that AC Delco makes their own belts, but the important thing is that the belt is highly saturated nitrile rubber (should have the markings H-NBR somehwere on the belt).

The belt from the site in the link above (Lexus Dealer in Texas) is pretty cheap. I'll go with that.

What esle should I change?

Thanks,

Chris

[jzz30]

bottom line is use common sence. after putting on the T-belt rotate the crank with a ratchet or sumthing and see if anything hits (like valves) and after 2 crank rotations see if all of the timing marks line up again.

[blake918]

What esle should I change?

Everything you listed in your first post. ;)

[Threadcutter]

96LS:

after putting on the T-belt rotate the crank with a ratchet or sumthing and see if anything hits (like valves) and after 2 crank rotations see if all of the timing marks line up again.

I'd like to add a nuance to this procedure here; Yes, you want to rotate the crank to make sure the marks on the cam sprockets line up with the marks on the front of the cylinder heads (or sheet metal shrouds) at the same time the mark on the crank lines up with the mark on it's shroud.

The most important aspect of doing this is to remove your spark plugs while doing this. DO NOT use a ratchet, particularly if you have not removed the spark plugs. This is because the compression in the cylinders will force the crank further in the direction you are turning it with the ratchet, and you will lose control of the crank.

Remove the plugs & use a breaker bar to turn the crank. That way, If you come to apoint in the crank rotation where there is interference, you will feel it & you have a fighting chance of doing something about it before it does any damage. Just don't get wild about how fast/how hard you turn the crank.

Also, do not expect that the marks on the belt will line up with their respective marks on the cam sprockets & crank after a couple of crank revolutions.................they won't. What IS IMPORTANT is that when you rotate the crank, the crank mark lines up with the shroud at the same time the sprocket mark(s) line up with their marks on the block (sheet metal shrouds).