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Posted

Well, my RX400h has gone down in my history as the being the toughest vehicle in which to change oil. I must also mention that this would not be the case, had it not been for the oil filter location.

Although you might be able to complete an oil/filter change without elevating the RX, I like to look around underneath, so I drove it up on Rhino ramps. Laying on my back underneath the engine bay, I noticed that the oil filter is nowhere to be found. Mmmmm, I guess I should be able to see it from above.......nope - nowhere! Next, I grabbed a lantern battery and went back underneath.....nothing. Getting a bit frustrated as it was already almost 5 PM, I rushed into the house and ran a search for "RX400h oil filter location".

There wasn't anything specific to the RX400h, but a few posts mentioned that the RX330 oil filter is i the same location as that of the RX300, so my guess was that the RX400h's filter would be in the same place - correctomundo! Unfortunately, the filter is underneath the exhaust manifold and tucked away in such a location that getting at it with a wrench is very tough.

Despite having three different types of oil filter wrenches, I couldn't get one to work. I then decided that removing the plastic panel that is directly underneath the filter would allow me to have more access. After removing about 8 screws, I noticed that there appeared to be 2 snaps that keep the panel from falling down. Not knowing whether they were really snaps (and knowing that daylight was fast leaving me), I was able to push the panel far enough towards the front so that I could reach in with two hands and grab the filter.

I guess working out at the gym paid off because after using every last ounce of energy I could muster, the filter started turning. Of course, the oil from it dripped all over the place as it made its way down to the pavement, but that certainly wasn't the first time this happened after my loosening a filter. (our 86 Honda Accord burned my arm almost every time.)

Thankfully, my K&N oil filter has a welded-on nut, which allows you to use either a socket or a box/open end wrench to torque it a little bit after tightening it by hand. Whew, what a fiasco. Anyway, when removing the oil pan plug, I noticed that there is no gasket, plastic or brass washer, or o-ring to seal the plug. Rather, both sealing surfaces are metallic AND smooth as glass - interesting.

Oh, another thing: If you DO plan to change your own oil, don't get a 5-gallon container. The oil filler cap is set down far enough so that trying to use an ordinary funnel will result in oil getting all over the place when you try to pour from the large oil jug. I have a long-nose funnel and STILL had a hard time pouring without spilling. Having quart bottles would definitely help matters.

Cost of oil change:

Filter: K&N $11.00

Oil: Castrol 5W-30 anti-sludge formula: $10.70 for 5 gallon jug

Total: $21.70

Dealer cost for oil change and tire rotation: $135.00

I still need to get the tires rotated (or do it myself), but even if I have it done at the local Discount tire, it shouldn't be more than $20, I would think.

Dave


Posted

Cost of oil change:

Filter: K&N $11.00

Oil: Castrol 5W-30 anti-sludge formula: $10.70 for 5 gallon jug

Total: $21.70

Dealer cost for oil change and tire rotation: $135.00

I still need to get the tires rotated (or do it myself), but even if I have it done at the local Discount tire, it shouldn't be more than $20, I would think.

Dave

Dave, you failed to mention the time it took you? This would be important in the comparison you are making. BTW, What is your hourly rate?

Posted

Cost of oil change:

Filter: K&N $11.00

Oil: Castrol 5W-30 anti-sludge formula: $10.70 for 5 gallon jug

Total: $21.70

Dealer cost for oil change and tire rotation: $135.00

I still need to get the tires rotated (or do it myself), but even if I have it done at the local Discount tire, it shouldn't be more than $20, I would think.

Dave

Dave, you failed to mention the time it took you? This would be important in the comparison you are making. BTW, What is your hourly rate?

Well, the last time I took the RX to the dealership, I had to sit in their waiting room approximately 2 hours while the service was performed, so I guess spending 1.5 hours at home (40 miles closer than the dealership) isn't such a bad thing after all!

I think the next time I do this, one hour will be all I need.

Posted

Another option: Follow the instructions in the factory service manual and use an end cap style oil filter wrench: http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/mastertech/capf.jpg which is excellent for working in tight spaces such as underneath the manifold. Then you can use any oil filter including a genuine Toyota oil filter and genuine Toyota Motor oil and save even more:

Example: http://elkgrovetoyota.com/Specials-Parts.aspx

Posted

Another option: Follow the instructions in the factory service manual and use an end cap style oil filter wrench: http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/mastertech/capf.jpg which is excellent for working in tight spaces such as underneath the manifold. Then you can use any oil filter including a genuine Toyota oil filter and genuine Toyota Motor oil and save even more:

Example: http://elkgrovetoyota.com/Specials-Parts.aspx

Thanks for the tips. This is why I used this:

http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=HP-1002

The next oil change will be easier, although I still may have to remove the bottom panel - getting at the filter from the top is a real bear! Believe me, I'd be tempted to use the Toyota stuff if a dealership were closer to my house. Then again, I doubt the Toyota oil is less expensive than the Castrol.

Another tip: Wait at least 15 minutes (for the exhaust manifold to cool) down before reaching down (or up) there to grab the filter!

Posted

All 2006 Lexus models require the use of ILSAC GF-4 engine oil standard. Castrol doesn't meet that standard. Check out TSIB EG001-06.

Posted

I agree, the oil filter is a pain in the %$#E, been doing them on my RX300 For 7 years. Under the exhaust manifold is a great engineering feature. tempted to get a oil filter relocation, but everytime I think of it is right after I do the filter change. Then I dont think about it until the next oil change. Oh well, live and learn and dont buy a Lexus.

Posted

All 2006 Lexus models require the use of ILSAC GF-4 engine oil standard. Castrol doesn't meet that standard. Check out TSIB EG001-06.

That's funny, because I obtained this from Castrol's website:

SAE 5W-30:

The most recommended grade in today's new cars. Exceeds all car and light truck manufacturer's warranty requirements for the protection of gasoline, diesel and turbocharged engines where API SM, SL, SJ, SH, CF or CD is recommended. Exceeds European ACEA: A1, A5, B1, B5, Corvette GM 4718M, GM 6094M, Ford WSS M2C929-A and all requirements of ILSAC GF-4 for API Certified Gasoline Engine Oils and meets Energy Conserving Standards

Posted

I agree, the oil filter is a pain in the %$#E, been doing them on my RX300 For 7 years. Under the exhaust manifold is a great engineering feature. tempted to get a oil filter relocation, but everytime I think of it is right after I do the filter change. Then I dont think about it until the next oil change. Oh well, live and learn and dont buy a Lexus.

The welded nut feature of the K&N makes the extra $5 for it worthwhile in my book. In the website, www.bobistheoilguy, an extensive test of oil filters revealed that a couple of filters not only filtered very well, but also exhibited a very low pressure drop across the filter. Those two are K&N and Baldwin and I've been using K&N in my Corvette for the past couple of years.

Posted

I agree, the oil filter is a pain in the %$#E, been doing them on my RX300 For 7 years. Under the exhaust manifold is a great engineering feature. tempted to get a oil filter relocation, but everytime I think of it is right after I do the filter change. Then I dont think about it until the next oil change. Oh well, live and learn and dont buy a Lexus.

Silly old me - I thought that having reached the level of disposable income required to purchase a Lexus, I could afford to pay someone else to change my oil for me... Reading this thread sure convinces me of the wisdom of that approach! :)

Posted

Speaking of oil changes, how many miles are you going between changes and is there any advantage to using a synthetic oil like Mobil 1 in the 400h. I've put synthetic in my previous cars and will be taking the 400h in for its 5000 mile initial service soon.

Posted

Speaking of oil changes, how many miles are you going between changes and is there any advantage to using a synthetic oil like Mobil 1 in the 400h. I've put synthetic in my previous cars and will be taking the 400h in for its 5000 mile initial service soon.

The owner's manual says 5000 miles or 6 months, whichever occurs first. With our driving, they usually arrive at the same time.

Regarding synthetic oils: I feel that there is little advantage if (because of warranty requirements) you must change your oil every 5000 miles or 6 months. Let's say you drive only 5000 miles per year and change your synthetic oil and high-quality filter once during the entire year. According to Lexus, you are violating your warranty and should anything disastrous happen to your engine that is even remotely related to its oil, your infrequent changes are grounds for the dealership's NOT covering repairs.

My Corvette comes from the factory with Mobile 1 synthetic and its oil life monitor's algorythm calculated remaining oil life based upon your driving habits. The manual states that you should go by the digital display of oil life exhaustion OR 1 year, whichever occures first. I change its oil once per year (oil life remaining at that time is typically 20%). Clearly, synthetic oil's properties remain intact longer than does petroleum-based oils.

My Mazda is turbo-charged and is a prime candidate for synthetic oil. Still, I change it only once per year and it is still going strong after 17 years.

Of course, if you plan on keeping your Lexus for 350,000 miles or more, sythetics have a better chance of getting you there without problems, as long as you don't try to go 15,000 miles between oil changes.

Here's a ex shop mechanic who explains why using genuine Toyota and Honda lubes, fluids and filters will keep these cars running forever http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/mastertech/hon.jpg

My brother-in-law's first generation Toyota van had more than 300,000 miles on it when he sold it and was still running perfectly. He had his oil changed at Jiffy Lube. I have no doubt that Toyota oils and filter are good, but to say they are better than anything else without proof is just plain ignorance. If Toyota came out with their own tires, would you use ONLY those? Of course not!

Posted

castrol synthetic blend, 5/30 is what my dealer uses at both his lexus dealerships and what i am told is shipped in the crankcase from the factory. the dealership i use where i purchased my 400h charges $70 for the oil, filter and lube (not sure they lube anything anymore) and will rotate the tires included in that price. I am sure when they remodel the showroom and get a real barrista making the lattes' (this is seattle after all) then the oil change may go to 135 LOL. also, for what its worth the dealer does do a battery load test i guess to check the contition of the main battery at each oil change.

Posted

I might go with a blend the next time, but for now, I have "The maximum protection against sludge buildup"! I have a feeling that it will carry my Rx through the next 5000 miles very nicely.

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/productdeta...ntentId=6030785

...and yes, as I mentioned previously, its tech data sheet lists the ILSAC GF-4 spec.

Posted

They do check the battery. Although I never knew I had a problem with the battery on my old RX, they discovered that the battery wasn't working properly and changed it. At the next oil change they checked again and said the new one was defective and changed it again. I never realized the problem but they really saved me from experiencing a problem. I don't regret having the car serviced at the dealer.

Posted

I generally check many things while the oil is draining, the battery among them. I also have time to clean the engine a bit. Believe me, I'd rather relax in a lounge, watching a big screen TV and drinking coffee, but doing this while paying $135 for an oil change makes me feel guilty - guilty because I know I can take my whole family out for a really nice dinner for that kind of money. Am I rich enough to ignore that? ...not yet!


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