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Aftermarket Front Brake Rotors


ScottRX300

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My 2002 RX300 has 61,000 miles on it. Most of my dirving is highway/freeway. Yet, I've been through two sets of factory front brake rotors. The first set warped while the car was under warranty, and after enough complaining the dealer gave me a new set of rotors. Now the car is out of warranty, I have have to foot the bill for a new set of rotors.

My car was built in 6/02. Can anyone recommend a good AFTERMARKET front rotor that will fit my car? Part numbers would be appreciated.

I'm done with the lousy OEM rotors.

Thanks in advance.

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I have Brembo plain front and Rotora slotted rear. You can go to www.tirerack.com for Brembo and they will fit. Rotora I bought at www.streetbeatcustom.com, choose your year and car model, part number will come up. BTW, you can get free shipping or 5% off by registering. Rotora is a little better since it has E-coating so non-frictional surface won't rust. Slots will allow hot gas to escape if you do heavy braking repeatively. But with Brembo, you can find more shops to turn them (not that I recommend) if needed. I found these rotors work great with Akebono ceramic pads.

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SKPerformance is right, rotor is a heat sink. Kinetic energy must be turned into thermal energy or your car will keep going insteading of stopping. Pads rub rotor to generate heat, rotor must be able to absorb it first, then dump it to surrounding cooler air so it can store more thermal energy. Once you cut your rotor, rotor's capacity to store heat is reduced. When the amount of heat coming in > amount of heat transfer out and there is no place to store it, your car just can not stop because now the brake is "fading". That is a reason turned rotors warp more easily than the uncut ones. If you have a "warped" rotor, I recommend just buy a new rotor, probably save your more $ in the long run and give you better braking performance.

According to Brembo's site, Brembo uses High Carbon iron instead of standard alloy cast iron for better braking performance.

http://www.brembo.com/ENG/Market/History/ProductsHC.htm

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I have one Toyota with 465,000 miles and another with 243,000. Both have their factory original rotors and they have never warped. Needless to say I am extremely impressed with the quality of OEM rotors and pads. My belief is that if OEM rotors warp, it's not the fault of the rotors. Blame lies with:

1. Owners who make abrupt stops instead of gradual, gentle stops.

2. Owners who fail to downshift to control vehicle speed on long downgrades

3. Mechanics who overtighten the wheel lug nuts when the tires are rotated. Concerned owners should recheck the tightness of the lug nut themselves or else advise their service shop to carefully avoid overtightening.

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Got to agree mulitple warping rotors is from massive amounts of heat transfer with no where to go.

It is all about how the vehicle is driven, so vehicles are subject to more heat and will warp easier.

I only have high speed wobble on my cars from light rain warping so unless i get to about 180km i don't feel it at all.

I usually never have to change my rotors just pads but i change pads on my wifes lighter car every year and rotors every other.

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I have one Toyota with 465,000 miles and another with 243,000.  Both have their factory original rotors and they have never warped.  Needless to say I am extremely impressed with the quality of OEM rotors and pads. My belief is that if OEM rotors warp, it's not the fault of the rotors. Blame lies with:

1. Owners who make abrupt stops instead of gradual, gentle stops.

2. Owners who fail to downshift to control vehicle speed on long downgrades

3. Mechanics who overtighten the wheel lug nuts when the tires are rotated.  Concerned owners should recheck the tightness of the lug nut themselves or else advise their service shop to carefully avoid overtightening.

4. Owners/drivers who rest their left foot on the brake pedal.

Even the slightest pressure on the brake pedal will result in the pads being continuously in contact with the rotor and thereby continuously HEATING said rotor. Watch the traffic ahead of you on the freeway for the number of high-mounted brake lights on with the vehicle obviously in "cruise" mode.

My 2001 AWD RX300 is showing no sign of brake warpage at close to 50,000 miles nor did my 2000 RX when I traded it in.

I would NEVER, have never, hesitated having my rotors turned, "cut" if needed and within tolerance.

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my 94 camry had 125,000 miles on original pads and rotors when I sold

driven in mixed city hi way milesit to my son.

My rotors have 117k miles and show some warp. Seems to have happened after Lexus of Roseville worked on my car last time. That supports the dumb mechanics not torque the wheels properly.

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My rotors have 117k miles and show some warp.  Seems to have happened after Lexus of Roseville worked on my car last time.  That supports the dumb mechanics not torque the wheels properly.

Yeah the official Toyota Brake System Technician Training Manual says improperly torqued wheel lug nuts is a leading cause of brake rotor run out (what people refer to as "warp"). The manual further recommends tightening the lug nuts by hand instead of using power tools.

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Regardless of the make and model of vehicle(s) you own, you should never use power tools to remove or install your lug nuts. Your studs, nuts, wheels, and brake components will remain in much better condition and last far longer if you ensure that only hand tools touch your lug nuts when you need to remove or tighten them. Get yourself a good cross-shaped lug nut wrench and you can safely spin your lug nuts to your heart's delight, all by hand with no risk of power tool damage.

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  • 2 months later...

Just had my brakes and rotors looked at. Dealer tells me I need new front rotors b/c there is too much rust build-up. If they were to sand the rotors, it would drive the surface to low for use. The dude gave me the option of just placing new front pads on the car but warned that the rust from the rotors may cause loud squeaking noises. What do you guys think I should do, just replace the front pads with OEM or replace both the front pads and front rotors with OEM? Any other recommendations?

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  • 2 weeks later...

I don't know why some mechanics recommend that, Probably to cut the life down on the disk, Disks manufactured today are true when new. Why cut a perfectly good new disk. Don't do it. Just ask the mechanic to make sure he uses a torque wrench when putting the wheels back on. No air wrenches allowed.

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I don't know why some mechanics recommend that, Probably to cut the life down on the disk, Disks manufactured today are true when new.  Why cut a perfectly good new disk.  Don't do it.  Just ask the mechanic to make sure he uses a torque wrench when putting the wheels back on.  No air wrenches allowed.

GOOD TO KNOW!! THANKS :cheers:

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