latintxn54 Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 Greetings to all! Completed replacing my '97 LS400 Rack & Pinion Steering unit this weekend. Though a labor intensive task, no problems encountered. Took approx. 6 hrs. One of the first items of work was to disconnect the tie-rod ends. This was the only bummer of the job. Using a rented 'pitch' fork-type tool to pop off the TRend, it totally ruins the rubber part of the TRend. I knew immediately both TRends would have to be replaced. Also discovered that after dropping the TRends, you can lift the entire rotor/wheel assembly to check for Ball Joint play. Sure enough, the bottom BJoints need to be replaced. My question is, does anyone have the tightening torque specifications for both the TRend Nut & BJoint Nut when connecting back? I've got a torque wrench but not sure how tight these should be. Fyi, got the remanufactured R&P here in Houston $175. Got 2 lower Ball Joints & outer TRends from IronToad.com $233.68. Any replies appreciated. :whistles: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bicol-ini Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 hello, heres the specs wheel lugs 76 ft lb bolt for the ABS 69 in lb tie rod from lower ball joint 48 ft lb lower ball joint from lower suspension arm 112 ft lb lower ball joint from steering knuckle 83 ft lb tie rod end lock nut to rack and pinion 41 ft lb hopes this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
latintxn54 Posted January 10, 2005 Author Share Posted January 10, 2005 Thanks for the specs! Have a great day! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VBdenny Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 Did you need a press or something to R&R the ball joints. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
latintxn54 Posted January 10, 2005 Author Share Posted January 10, 2005 Did you need a press or something to R&R the ball joints. ← As I stated in my original note, I 've not yet R&R the ball joints. I've only removed & reused the TieRod Ends. Regardless, when I receive the new lower Ball Joints & TieRod Ends, I will have to use the 'pitch fork' type tool again to remove the lower Ball Joints & TRends. Unless there's a Tie-Rod-End Pulley-type tool available I will again have to use the pitch-fork type tool. And I really hate using this tool as once you use it, it destroys the rubber part of both the Ball Joint & TieRodEnd. Hope that answers your question. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bicol-ini Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 hello, there is a tie rod end puller , check autozone or some other tool shop rental they do so you odnt have to bang using that fork, much easier to use and remove the tie rod ends, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
latintxn54 Posted January 10, 2005 Author Share Posted January 10, 2005 hello, there is a tie rod end puller , check autozone or some other tool shop rental they do so you odnt have to bang using that fork, much easier to use and remove the tie rod ends, ← Thanks bicol-ini! Wish I'd known that when I rented the pitch-fork tool from O'Reilly. Had I known that, I could have saved some $$$s not reordering the TRends. What they actually rent is a case set of forks & pulleys but the pulley that was included would not have worked for me as it did not fit completely around the TRend assembly. Oh well, although the fork tool works beautifully and since the rubbers on both TRends are now ruined, I'm going to use it again to remove both TRends and the lower Bjoints. Again, thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArmyofOne Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 Did you need a press or something to R&R the ball joints. ← As I stated in my original note, I 've not yet R&R the ball joints. I've only removed & reused the TieRod Ends. Regardless, when I receive the new lower Ball Joints & TieRod Ends, I will have to use the 'pitch fork' type tool again to remove the lower Ball Joints & TRends. Unless there's a Tie-Rod-End Pulley-type tool available I will again have to use the pitch-fork type tool. And I really hate using this tool as once you use it, it destroys the rubber part of both the Ball Joint & TieRodEnd. Hope that answers your question. Thanks! ← you want to come do the ones on my ES250?? LOL. i need the R&P/BallJoints/TieRods myselt. greenleaf in Ft worth has the R&P for $89.99. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bicol-ini Posted January 11, 2005 Share Posted January 11, 2005 well since the tie rod ends are destroyed you have to change it, so might as well bang on it with fork just be carefull none is affected, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
latintxn54 Posted January 11, 2005 Author Share Posted January 11, 2005 Did you need a press or something to R&R the ball joints. ← As I stated in my original note, I 've not yet R&R the ball joints. I've only removed & reused the TieRod Ends. Regardless, when I receive the new lower Ball Joints & TieRod Ends, I will have to use the 'pitch fork' type tool again to remove the lower Ball Joints & TRends. Unless there's a Tie-Rod-End Pulley-type tool available I will again have to use the pitch-fork type tool. And I really hate using this tool as once you use it, it destroys the rubber part of both the Ball Joint & TieRodEnd. Hope that answers your question. Thanks! ← you want to come do the ones on my ES250?? LOL. i need the R&P/BallJoints/TieRods myselt. greenleaf in Ft worth has the R&P for $89.99. ← Hey ArmyOfOne, if you were here in Houston (Katy), I'd be more than happy to do the job. I'm grateful that I've got the skillsets to do the job as I save alot of money by doing it myself. When I was quoted 1500. to replace the Rack&Pinion, I said No way!! Besides ,women love men that work cars, especially theirs!! B) Thanks to everyone who replied with comments & tips. This Lexus forum is VERY cool!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArmyofOne Posted January 11, 2005 Share Posted January 11, 2005 Did you need a press or something to R&R the ball joints. ← As I stated in my original note, I 've not yet R&R the ball joints. I've only removed & reused the TieRod Ends. Regardless, when I receive the new lower Ball Joints & TieRod Ends, I will have to use the 'pitch fork' type tool again to remove the lower Ball Joints & TRends. Unless there's a Tie-Rod-End Pulley-type tool available I will again have to use the pitch-fork type tool. And I really hate using this tool as once you use it, it destroys the rubber part of both the Ball Joint & TieRodEnd. Hope that answers your question. Thanks! ← you want to come do the ones on my ES250?? LOL. i need the R&P/BallJoints/TieRods myselt. greenleaf in Ft worth has the R&P for $89.99. ← Hey ArmyOfOne, if you were here in Houston (Katy), I'd be more than happy to do the job. I'm grateful that I've got the skillsets to do the job as I save alot of money by doing it myself. When I was quoted 1500. to replace the Rack&Pinion, I said No way!! Besides ,women love men that work cars, especially theirs!! B) Thanks to everyone who replied with comments & tips. This Lexus forum is VERY cool!! ← i might just be willing to drive to you to do it. LOL. i'll keep in touch. probably wont be for a few months. the car is not dagerous in its current state, as long as one doesnt act stupidly with it. it just requires that you turn the wheel a little farther before the car repsonds. i am used to it and i now can handle it without a problem. but the first time i took a cloverleaf exit ramp and i turned the wheel, the car kept going straight!! it scared the beejesus out of me. when/if i get a truck, i may rent a uhaul and tow it there, and let you work on it at your leisure. after i get my oil leaks fixed, because thats top priority. B) thanks for the offer. i will keep in touch and let you know. i agree this site is great! i myself was quoted <1300 to do it and i decided right then and there that i wasnt ever going to get it done as its my only car that i can drive daily without a hassle for a long period of time. i can use the concorde or the F-150, but it will create a problem after a few days. my ball joints are so far gone i will probably need new LCA's too. i have the knowledge and the ability, just not the time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Littletimmy Posted January 11, 2005 Share Posted January 11, 2005 bicol-ini ~ Would the torque specs you listed earlier be the same for a 91 LS400? If not, do you have those? I would also need the torque specs for the upper control arm bolts. Thanks in advance for any info you can supply. P.S. I have an '80 Celica GT w/ 260k mi. It was my first car and always ran great. It is sitting in my dad's garage waiting to be fixed from my dad rearending someone in it when he borrowed it from me. I love the styling of the car and it was a nice first car. I want to customize it when I rebuild it. Don't have a plan yet, though. Kind of on the back burner right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bicol-ini Posted January 12, 2005 Share Posted January 12, 2005 hello, not sure about the first gen LS, somebody might have a repair manual for the 1st gen LS like VBdenny maybe PM him, if you cant find one, am sure its pretty close to 2nd gen specs, good luck yes my celica still running, still my daily driver, pushing 433000 miles all original engine and drive train, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Econ Posted January 12, 2005 Share Posted January 12, 2005 bicol-ini ~ Would the torque specs you listed earlier be the same for a 91 LS400? If not, do you have those? I would also need the torque specs for the upper control arm bolts. Thanks in advance for any info you can supply. Below are the specs from Alldata for the 1991 LS 400: Front/Rear Lug Nuts - 76 ft lbs Tie Rod End Locknut - 41 ft lbs Tie Rod End to Steering Knuckle - 43 ft lbs Lower Ball Joint to Lower Arm - 112 ft lbs Steering Knuckle to Lower Ball Joint - 83 ft lbs I didn't see torque specs for the Speed Sensor (ABS), just a bolt, but 69 in lbs sounds right for something like that. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexus400 Posted January 14, 2005 Share Posted January 14, 2005 I've been there with a pickle fork before... if you're planning on re-using the tie rods or balls joints here's what you can do: Loosen the nut until it's flush with the top of the threads and hit it with a hammer or sledge. As soon as it "drops" you'll know it's loose. Even better if there's enough thread where you can put another sacrificial nut on top and hammer away. Even if you damage the one nut on the process you've protected the threads on the tie rod and worst case you need a new nut. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nc211 Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 Question: would damaging the rubber part of these parts destroy the way they operate? The reason I ask is I too used the pitchfork when I changed out my front suspension parts, and, I too mutilated the rubber, which squeezed out a lot of the grease. I'm wondering if they're destroyed too? Also, is it normal for the strut rod bushing part of the rod to be all crooked looking when the car is jacked up and wheel is off the ground? I noticed the last time when I was cleaning the pads that the strut rod look really twisted to one side. Is that normal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SKperformance Posted October 12, 2005 Share Posted October 12, 2005 When ever a grease boot is exposed it has to be replaced. The ball joint will be good but is going to wear out faster now that you are introducing dirt into the fitting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bicol-ini Posted October 12, 2005 Share Posted October 12, 2005 just by that using the fork youve destroyed the tie rod ends, yes the strut rod do twist since they have to be adjusted when aligning the car as you can see its got some kind of adjusting gauge, anyways, you aint done yet fixing up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nc211 Posted October 12, 2005 Share Posted October 12, 2005 :cries: crap, i thought so. well, here goes another couple C notes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cardona6569 Posted October 12, 2005 Share Posted October 12, 2005 Did you need a press or something to R&R the ball joints. ← As I stated in my original note, I 've not yet R&R the ball joints. I've only removed & reused the TieRod Ends. Regardless, when I receive the new lower Ball Joints & TieRod Ends, I will have to use the 'pitch fork' type tool again to remove the lower Ball Joints & TRends. Unless there's a Tie-Rod-End Pulley-type tool available I will again have to use the pitch-fork type tool. And I really hate using this tool as once you use it, it destroys the rubber part of both the Ball Joint & TieRodEnd. Hope that answers your question. Thanks! ← you want to come do the ones on my ES250?? LOL. i need the R&P/BallJoints/TieRods myselt. greenleaf in Ft worth has the R&P for $89.99. ← Hey ArmyOfOne, if you were here in Houston (Katy), I'd be more than happy to do the job. I'm grateful that I've got the skillsets to do the job as I save alot of money by doing it myself. When I was quoted 1500. to replace the Rack&Pinion, I said No way!! Besides ,women love men that work cars, especially theirs!! B) Thanks to everyone who replied with comments & tips. This Lexus forum is VERY cool!! ← i might just be willing to drive to you to do it. LOL. i'll keep in touch. probably wont be for a few months. the car is not dagerous in its current state, as long as one doesnt act stupidly with it. it just requires that you turn the wheel a little farther before the car repsonds. i am used to it and i now can handle it without a problem. but the first time i took a cloverleaf exit ramp and i turned the wheel, the car kept going straight!! it scared the beejesus out of me. when/if i get a truck, i may rent a uhaul and tow it there, and let you work on it at your leisure. after i get my oil leaks fixed, because thats top priority. B) thanks for the offer. i will keep in touch and let you know. i agree this site is great! i myself was quoted <1300 to do it and i decided right then and there that i wasnt ever going to get it done as its my only car that i can drive daily without a hassle for a long period of time. i can use the concorde or the F-150, but it will create a problem after a few days. my ball joints are so far gone i will probably need new LCA's too. i have the knowledge and the ability, just not the time! ← HI: Recommend for you to use the Lucas Transmission additive, it might help your rack until you change it. It only costs like 7 to 9 bucks. I have herd of many racks becoming good after the aplication of the one for the PS, but since we use tranny fluid in our racks need to use the TRanny additive. C. PR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lsrxlex Posted October 26, 2005 Share Posted October 26, 2005 Greetings to all! Completed replacing my '97 LS400 Rack & Pinion Steering unit this weekend. Though a labor intensive task, no problems encountered. Took approx. 6 hrs. One of the first items of work was to disconnect the tie-rod ends. This was the only bummer of the job. Using a rented 'pitch' fork-type tool to pop off the TRend, it totally ruins the rubber part of the TRend. I knew immediately both TRends would have to be replaced. Also discovered that after dropping the TRends, you can lift the entire rotor/wheel assembly to check for Ball Joint play. Sure enough, the bottom BJoints need to be replaced. My question is, does anyone have the tightening torque specifications for both the TRend Nut & BJoint Nut when connecting back? I've got a torque wrench but not sure how tight these should be. Fyi, got the remanufactured R&P here in Houston $175. Got 2 lower Ball Joints & outer TRends from IronToad.com $233.68. Any replies appreciated.:whistles: ← I plan to replace my R&P on my 1990 LS too. So far, how do you like your ADCO remanufactured one, I mean quality wise? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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