latintxn54

Did you happen to check the timing marks before you pulled it apart? If pieces fell between belt and gears that might have made it easier to jump a notch. Oh yes! I made sure the markings were lined up (just as the Lexus manual instructs) prior to removing the belt and was also careful not to turn the crank once belt is off.

If the crank and cam pulleys line up beautifully, as per your first post, then I would not think that the belt jumped. If it did jump, I would expect it to remain in its new position. There should be a lot of tension on the belt.(you did remember to pull the tensioner pin, right?). Still, the fact that you now have no compression is both disturbing and puzzling. IF valves did get bent, I would think you would have a little compression on several cylinders, even if ever so slight. Are you sure the compression gauge works correctly? You might want to use an air compressor and try pressurizing several cylinders after you have confirmed that the valves are (should be) closed. Yes, the TB tensioner was reinstalled at the appropriate time. And as you say, I would expect some reading from the the Compression test but ALL 8 not showing compression? So strange. And yes, thinking my new compressor might be defective, I borrowed my neighbor's compressor and yet still no readings. I'll try your air-in-cyl suggestion to see if this changes things.

thanks for your tip. Should I decide to investigate further, I'll consider your suggestion.

Thanks for that suggestion. Someone previously mentioned using one of these but I couldn't find where to purchase one. I was also told that using one of these tools, I should be able to see 'nick' marks on the top of pistons. Off to the hardware store. Thanks!!

VERY good question. No! A little history behind the problem. I replaced the timing belt before this problem occurred and everything started right up. Shortly after replacing the belt (1-2 days), I went to start the engine but while spinning, it made a odd stumping noise and from that point on, it would not start. My first & immediate thought was "sounds like it's out of time". I removed everything to inspect the timing belt and I did notice 2 of the rubber grommets (that fit on top of the distributor caps used for sound cushioning) had fallen off and were sitting right under the crankshaft pulley and belt. they looked shredded as if they got caught up in the crank gear teeth. My thought is that these grommets caused the belt to jump and valves to bend. Does this sound possible to you? Again, thanks for your insight & reply! V. Gonzalez

Greetings to all LS enthusaists! I need your insight into the problem I've got with my LS400. I've replaced the timing belt with an OEM belt (to insure the markings line up exactly). I've actually replaced a few LS400 timing belts and the procedure has become 2nd nature to me. This time, the vehicle will not start. I'm getting spark, fuel, I've confirmed the Crank & Cam Pulleys line up beautifully just as the Lexus Manual instructs. My problem is this - no compression in any of the cylinders. I've come to accept the undisputed fact this is an Interference engine and that I may have bent valves. I've come to the point where I need to decide which directions to take. My neighborhood Lexus/Toyota mechanic said if it truly is bent valves, I can either replace and/or repair the heads, replace the motor or just sell the car as is. Is there any way to be absolutely sure I've got bent valves and that this truly is the culprit to the engine not starting? Any replies would be so appreciated. Regards,

Steve2006, Thanks! I will certainly try this when I get back on the car tonight. And you detail exactly the problem i am having. Although your vehicle is slightly different than my '96, i am struggling to lift the water outlet unit up & out. And again you're correct on why in the world would Lexus not use bolts instead of the 4 nuts but then again, why the he(_@)# didn't they simply design the starter to be outside the engine. WHAT WERE THEY THINKING??!! Again, thanks for taking the time to read & reply.. Victor Gonzalez

HELP!!!! I am in the middle of replacing the starter on my '96 Lexus LS and I'm stuck. I've been successful at removing all the parts to get to the starter but I've come across 1 last major obstacle before unbolting the starter. I am trying to remove & lift the Rear Water Bypass Joint out of the way but the Engine Wire Protector is in the way. Has anyone encountered this situation before? I was successful at removing the 2 12mm nuts that hold the EGR #1 pipe to the exhaust pipe along with all the other hoses that connect to the Rear Water Bypass Joint and everything is now loose but I do not have enough clearance to lift the Rear Water Bypass Joint up and out. The Engine Wire Protecter is in the way.. I'm certain some of you experienced DIY'ers have been down this road before so if you've got the tip that'll help me get past this, I will forever be indebted to you. This is the only item left before I can move forward with removing & replacing the starter. ANY feedback would be greatly appreciated. HAVE A GREAT DAY!! V. Gonzalez 281-546-4951

Anyone out there ever remove the crankshaft sprocket, which is mandatory prio to replacing the seal? I've got the official Lexus repair manual on CD as well as other resources off the internet which explain using a SST tool for removing the sprocket but that tool's impossible to find. Even the local Lexus dealers won't rent the tool. I'm hoping someone out there has been thru this experience as I am ready to replace the timing belt, water pump & idler pulleys. I'd like to do the 2 camshaft seals which seems pretty straight forward and requires only a harmonic-balance-type-pulley tool to remove the camshaft pulleys. It's the crankshaft sprocket that's a concern. Perhaps someone's got an alternative tool. Thanks for any replies. V. Gonzalez

Greetings to the serious LS400 shadetree mechanics out there! Preparing to perform this challenging yet do-able task of replacing the timing belt & water pump on my LS400 which has just passed the 100k mile mark. From all I've read & researched, it's recommended but not mandatory that the 2 camshaft seals & crankshaft seals also be replaced. My question. Is removing the 3 seals a difficult process? Are there special tools I'll need to remove? Thanks in advance for any replies. V. Gonzalez in Katy, Texas.

wildboar, I too own a '97 LS400 with 91K miles and just recently noticed the past week that while at a stop sign, unless I really press the pedal down hard, the car will move forward. And believe or not, the pedal's almost to the floor!! After inspecting all 4 wheels' pads, cylinder, hoses and found no leaks, I'm thinking it may be my Master cylinder. After reading this article, I wasn't aware one could bleed the ABS... Here's hoping you get the brakes fixed. I'll reply when I determine the culprit & solution.

thanks for the feedback. And you're right about 'should-of-held-off' on the ignition work 'cause I'll have to repeat most of the steps to do the timing belt. and thanks for the link to the "Seals" info. I too found this topic but unfortunately, it doesn't give instructions on removing the seals!

Just completed replacing the wires, plugs, rotors, distributor caps on my '97 LS400 with 91,850 miles. What a challenging job but I got it done!! No extra bolts and everything went right back in place. The entire job took approx. 6 hrs. and the sweetest part was when I cranked up the car & the sweet smooth sound that followed. The job went smooth in part to all the info. I picked up from this forum. Thanks to all!! Now I want to tackle the timing belt, water pump & camshaft/crankshaft seals. I've gathered plenty of input from this forum concerning "Replacing Timing Belt/Water Pump" but NOTHING on the task of replacing the seals. Does anyone have any sources for doing this job? Again, thanks to all you LS400 mechanically-inclined enthusiasts!

Greetings..You say that all's that needed is to remove 3 bolts total to replace the strut bar. I have a '97 LS400 and after lifting the vehicle to determine & inspect, I can't see how the strut bar could come off without first removing the Shock Absorber Lower Bracket from the lower control arm. Is there a secret to getting this done? Thanks for your reply.....

Thanks for the heads up. Turns out however, I contacted Iron Toad for the bushing and was told that they do not offer that product. They only sell the whole rod. (to me anyways) I assumed that latintxn54 was getting them from there but was mistaken. So..latintxn54 who is your supplier for the strut rod bushing? ← Good morning..I called IronToad just yesterday and they were the ones that offer both the strut bar bushings AND the strut bar. Since I don't have access to a press I am opting to replace the entire strut bar. Shouldn't be to labor intensive.

You may find this hard to believe but the only product I've ever used to clean my '97 LS400's mats & carpet is good ol' dishwashing liquid. I buy Ajax's $1.84 bottle at the grocers. The grease-cutting ingredient & a firm bristled brush has yet to fail me. Once dry, use your wet-dry to finish the job. It'll look like new, I guarantee it!

This is probably one of the best prices you'll find & installing is absolutely A,B,C... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...sspagename=WDVW

Greetings! Replace both front Strut Bars or just the Strut Bar Bushings? I understand removing the entire Strut Bar (Left & Right) would be the fastest fix to my rough ride problem (they're 88.98 each at Irontoad.com) but the Strut Bar bushings are only 32.97 each. Are the Strut Bar Bushings pressed in or do they simply fall out? Any feedback appreciated.

Excellent! Thanks bicol-ini!

Greetings! Anyone got a diagram of the entire front suspension? Just replaced the lower ball joints & tie-rod ends on my 80,500 mi. LS. With all the right tools, this was a piece of cake. Afterwards had the alignment checked out & tho the ride is so much nicer, I'm still feeling that the suspension could use some additional work. Thanks! B)

Greetings. Your symptoms sound VERY familiar to those I recently experienced. One sure way to find out if your rack & pinion is the culprit that's leaking: Your Power Steering fluid. Are you having to frequently fill the resevoir? If so, then you can remove one of the rubber boots at the end of the rack & pinion and believe me, if the seals are gone, the fluid will flow out like water. If you determine that the rack & pinion is the problem, unless you rebuild the rack & pinion yourself, you can replace the entire rack & pinion completely. I just accomplished that task myself. Though labor intensive, with the right tools & know-how, you can do it yourself. Want some help? For a small labor charge, I'll help you replace it. One estimate I was quoted was 1500. No way. The rebuilt rack&pinion I picked up was 175. + approx. 6 hrs. of labor. Let me know. V. Gonzalez in Houston, Texas (westside Katy) 281.579.6077

As I stated in my original note, I 've not yet R&R the ball joints. I've only removed & reused the TieRod Ends. Regardless, when I receive the new lower Ball Joints & TieRod Ends, I will have to use the 'pitch fork' type tool again to remove the lower Ball Joints & TRends. Unless there's a Tie-Rod-End Pulley-type tool available I will again have to use the pitch-fork type tool. And I really hate using this tool as once you use it, it destroys the rubber part of both the Ball Joint & TieRodEnd. Hope that answers your question. Thanks! ← you want to come do the ones on my ES250?? LOL. i need the R&P/BallJoints/TieRods myselt. greenleaf in Ft worth has the R&P for $89.99. ← Hey ArmyOfOne, if you were here in Houston (Katy), I'd be more than happy to do the job. I'm grateful that I've got the skillsets to do the job as I save alot of money by doing it myself. When I was quoted 1500. to replace the Rack&Pinion, I said No way!! Besides ,women love men that work cars, especially theirs!! B) Thanks to everyone who replied with comments & tips. This Lexus forum is VERY cool!!

Greetings. Did you ever get your CC to work? I have a '97 LS400 and I too am having the same problem & symptoms. Once I set the CC on, the light comes on, blinks a few times and the CC never kicks in. I've checked all my light bulbs around the car & the brake fluid level is full so I was wondering if there's any other solutions to my CC problem.

Thanks bicol-ini! Wish I'd known that when I rented the pitch-fork tool from O'Reilly. Had I known that, I could have saved some $$$s not reordering the TRends. What they actually rent is a case set of forks & pulleys but the pulley that was included would not have worked for me as it did not fit completely around the TRend assembly. Oh well, although the fork tool works beautifully and since the rubbers on both TRends are now ruined, I'm going to use it again to remove both TRends and the lower Bjoints. Again, thanks!

As I stated in my original note, I 've not yet R&R the ball joints. I've only removed & reused the TieRod Ends. Regardless, when I receive the new lower Ball Joints & TieRod Ends, I will have to use the 'pitch fork' type tool again to remove the lower Ball Joints & TRends. Unless there's a Tie-Rod-End Pulley-type tool available I will again have to use the pitch-fork type tool. And I really hate using this tool as once you use it, it destroys the rubber part of both the Ball Joint & TieRodEnd. Hope that answers your question. Thanks!