Jump to content

97es300 Engine Problem?please Help


97LexBow

Recommended Posts

New member here, Ok here's my problem:

My car has had a problem for a good 8 months. It seems to only want to start when the car had been sitting out for over an hour. (Only starts if the engine is cold). If i turn off the car and try to start it in less than an hour the car wont start (I'm assuming the engine takes about an hour to cool).. Once the car is running it is smooth and no problem. the car has 139k highway miles

One day about 4 months ago i woke up in the morning and car would not start (I never though to hit the gas pedal maybe it would of started had i done that) Tried to jump start it and no luck. So i had it towed to the lexus dealer and they tell me they took pressure readings and I need to rebuild the small block due to low pressure in cylinders etc etc. around $5,500 to have it rebuilt. I tell them to shove it. They tell me I will need to get it towed back to my house since its not running. Once I get there to pick it up, I try to start it and it starts. So for the past 4 months its been working but only start if the engine is cold.

Last week woke up to go to work and the car would not start. Tried hitting the gas pedal to see if that helped but it just would not start same problem as 4 months ago. So i have the car towed to a local repair shop (Firestone). They call me and tell me I need to rebuild the engine. They tell me that they took pressure readings and 2 cylinders have only 50psi (basically dead he told me) the other 4 cylinders have 100psi ( he tells me the specs should be about 200psi)....will go back to pick it up later this week hopefully it will start on its own like four months ago

I just dont get it 2 different shops telling me to rebuild the engine. I just find that hard to believe to be the problem. Like I said the problem is only on startup..Once the car is started and running there is no problem rides better than most cars out there.......ANy advice would be appreciated

Link to comment
Share on other sites


around $5,500 to have it rebuilt

ACK!!!!!!!! :wacko: :wacko: :wacko:

get the rebuild kit off of ebay comes with new rod bearings, rings, gaskets and all the goodies for $550, take it to someone and have it done for $2000...OR LESS!!!

$5500!!! i almpost fell out of my chair.

it sounds as if oil sludging might be your issue.

do a search on "sludge" to find out more ;)

compression in each cylinmder should be greater than 150.

and thats crap, if your compression was at 50 PSI the engine wouldnt even run, it wouldnt even spark.

did it smoke at all, did it make any odd noises when it finally did start?

any warning lights on the dash?

i would be willing to bet it is something simple, like the start, or an electrical connection somewhere, dont get just one opinion.

although with 193K, it may need a rbuild, but take it somewhere else, rebuild is a last resort, and it shoudl NOT cost $5,500. anywhere. for that price, you better have titanium forged pistons.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you had searched for a few minutes you may have noticed that within the past few weeks their is common answers to this simple fix

try the words

idle

or

iacv

oh...duh...i fogot about the IAC valve, check that, and clean it.

i stand by my original statement, yoru engine will not cost anywhere near $5500 to rebuild, cause i (as a mechainc) can rebuild an old mopar V8 for under $1,500 P&L.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hahahhaha... lol. Don't worrie Army... both u n i r NIGHT OWLS... @ this time... we have a right to b "DISLEXIC".

Dude... just want to salute you. B safe over there. N Thanxs. :cheers:

Give-em Hell :pirate:

When is ur shipment date? My friend is still over. N my sis's b/f just came back.

Good luck wit ur ES250 or was it an ES300.

Now i guess back to the topic... where exactly is the IACV located? Next to the EGR Valve? You might have to be very specific b/c i have no education in mechanics. I'm still a Noob DIYer. But i'm glad i'm learning a lot from u guys :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hahahhaha... lol.  Don't worrie Army... both u n i r NIGHT OWLS... @ this time... we have a right to b "DISLEXIC".

Dude... just want to salute you.  B safe over there.  N Thanxs.:cheers:

Give-em Hell :pirate:

When is ur shipment date?  My friend is still over.  N my sis's b/f just came back.

Good luck wit ur ES250 or was it an ES300.

Now i guess back to the topic... where exactly is the IACV located?  Next to the EGR Valve?  You might have to be very specific b/c i have no education in mechanics.  I'm still a Noob DIYer.  But i'm glad i'm learning a lot from u guys :lol:

i have an ES250.

dude, thanks very much for the salute, its people liek you that keep me going when thinsg get rough. its appreciated...by all of us, not just me.

i leave on valentines day as of now, but that can/probably will change. we will see.

and im not going to Iraq, just ADR.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just dont get it 2 different shops telling me to rebuild the engine. I just find that hard to believe to be the problem. Like I said the problem is only on startup..Once the car is started and running there is no problem rides better than most cars out there

If the engine spins lumpily rather than steadily as you crank it with the starter motor, then that's

a classic symptom of one or two dead cylinders in the engine. Rebuild time.

Remember, these Lexus engines don't lose their compression naturally, they only wear out if they are murdered by their owners. The usual way they are murdered is by extending engine oil or coolant change intervals or failing to tune up the engine at the specified intervals.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the engine spins lumpily rather than steadily as you crank it with the starter motor, then that's

a classic symptom of one or two dead cylinders in the engine.  Rebuild time.

Remember, these Lexus engines don't lose their compression naturally, they only wear out if they are murdered by their owners. The usual way they are murdered is by extending engine oil or coolant change intervals or failing to tune up the engine at the specified intervals.

That's a geat way to explain it. I like your colorful use of language. :cheers:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you had searched for a few minutes you may have noticed that within the past few weeks their is common answers to this simple fix

try the words

idle

or

iacv

Sk,

Thanks for leading me to the right direction. After researching IACV I am feeling confident that is the problem. I was able to find a picture of the IACV on this forum and found it on my car. Also went to pep boys and bought some throttle/air intake cleaner. Will try to clean the throttle and IACV tomorrow had no time today and will update you guys with the results

wish me luck

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Update! Update!

Picked up my vehicle from the firestone shop they advised me that I would need to rebuild the engine and the car is not starting that I would need to get it towed back home. They charged me $106.00 for their diagnosis. Tried starting the car in the lot and it would not start. Went home that day left car in their lot. Two days later went to the lot armed with throttle body cleaner. But before I cleaned anything I figured I would try starting the car and sure enough the car starts. I drive around and everything is fine no problem with engine and nothing strange at all while driving. Leave car at home I decide to not use the car until I fix this problem once and for all. I also decide to replace the Idle air control valve instead of cleaning it. PepBoys quotes me 236.00 for a IACV and would take 5-6 business day special order. Called the Toyota/lexus parts dept and they quote me 209.00 so I buy it there. I replaced the IACV which was a S.O.B. to do. We also removed the throttle which holds the throttle plate and cleaned it to new. So now the car starts fine like magic.

New problem now

The second day of driving I notice some shaking/studdering coming from the engine compartment. The shaking/studdering from the engine happens only when I am in DRIVE or REVERSE. It had me worried but I still drove the car for that day. I checked everything hoses, connectors and everything is fine no cracks or loose connections. But the shaking seems to be coming from the throttle area we were working on. Finally while driving the check engine light comes on. The next day I take it to autozone they run diagnostics the 3 codes that come up are below:

Random cylinder misfire

Cylinder 1 misfire

Idle control system misfire

Autozone guy tells me that those codes are being caused by the idle control valve he tells me its clogged with carbon and needs to be cleaned What The F at this point I tell him all this started after I replaced the IACV. So they are stumped. I am stumped.

Any advice out there would be appreciated. I really need to get this car fixed its been about 3 weeks sitting useless

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If ou have an exact misfire then you proably have a bad plug for cylinder 1 or wire or coil.

If all is plugged back into the iacv properly then i wouldn;t worry about that yet.

Why do you keep going back to firestone ,they obviously have no clue what tehy are doing with their half assed guesses.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Random cylinder misfire

Cylinder 1 misfire

Idle control system misfire

1 & 2 are easy:

1. bad coil, if its random, it almost has to be a coil, since random means little/no discrenable pattern.

2. Bad plug/wire in cylinder one. could also be a bad coil...but not likely that a bad coil will cause only 1 misfire.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

CLOSURE !!

The saga finally seems to come to an end

Had no time to really keep messing with my car and the cold chicago weather didnt help. So I took my car to an independent shop. Next day they tell me the problem causing the shaking/studdering was an electrical problem. Something with the coil pack having a bad wire connection also one of the sparks plugs was not making good contact. Im sure i cause these problems after replacing the IACV. Total cost was $104.

Total damage for the expenses were:

$100 something for the bogus Firestone diagnostic. Thinking about calling the BBB on them

$209 for Idle Air Control Valve actually its called the Idle Speed Control Valve according to the toyota parts dept. This was causing the problem I was having. This was a waste of money also since I could of just cleaned the original one. So now I have an Idle Control Valve. Might try to sell it on ebay.

$6 for the Idle Control Valve gasket which is needed anytime you change out this valve

$8 for the throttle gasket need this also if the throttle was removed/replaced which it was in order to remove the IACV

$104 for reconnecting spark plug and new connection on coil pack. Heck for all I know they just reseated a bad connection on spark plug and coil pack whatever that is. This fixed the shaking/studdering the engine compartment was doing after I replaced the idle control valve

Total $427. Live and learn. Hope someone here benefits from my mistakes

Link to comment
Share on other sites


If ou have an exact misfire then you proably have a bad plug for cylinder 1 or wire or coil.

If all is plugged back into the iacv properly then i wouldn;t worry about that yet.

Why do you keep going back to firestone ,they obviously have no clue what tehy are doing with their half assed guesses.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership