iideusii Posted August 25, 2004 Share Posted August 25, 2004 I have a 92 es300 and just recently had the coolant flushed. I now drive to work (about 15-20 minutes), all local and my temp gauge rises to the 3/4 mark whenever I sit at idle at a light. It gradually goes back to the halfway mark after I start driving again. I do have the A/C blowing but even with it off for the whole drive, it still rises. Im wondering if I need the coolant replaced again or if something else is going out. Need help Please! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lexusfreak Posted August 25, 2004 Share Posted August 25, 2004 I'm thinking a inexpensive part replacement like the thermostat wouldn't hurt. The coolant level in the overflow tank is at the proper level I take it when the car is cold & hot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steviej Posted August 26, 2004 Share Posted August 26, 2004 sounds like you got air in the coolant system. There is a special procedure that must be followed when refilling with the new coolant. If not followed you get air bubbles in the system that can cause hot spots. The air must be bleed from the system and the coolant must be topped off when the air is removed. steviej Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SKperformance Posted August 26, 2004 Share Posted August 26, 2004 hmm another 92 with a heating problem , i wish i could remember the member who told me i was wrong saying 92-93 have overheating problem. I must be on cheap crack. Anyway It is the fan control solonoid on the PS pump controlling the fan. my favorite word , well not really i just end up saying it alot. SEARCH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iideusii Posted August 26, 2004 Author Share Posted August 26, 2004 I checked the coolant level the other day and it seemed to be a bit low. I don't know about Lexus, but for my old car i used to add just water and it would run fine. Today again it started happening and when i got home, the coolant level was down again...any more suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SKperformance Posted August 26, 2004 Share Posted August 26, 2004 If you are losing coolant you proably have overheated already and caused the head gasket to blow or it has just blown and is now burning coolant. Get a compression test on the cooling system and the combustion chambers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CUMan Posted August 26, 2004 Share Posted August 26, 2004 I agree with Steviej. It sounds like air is in the cooling system. Perhaps the reason that the coolant level keeps dropping is that the system is displacing some of the air in its cooldown phase and is drawing in coolant. It would be better to follow the coolant replacement procedures and get all the air out. I had the same problem with a Honda Accord that I once owned. These cars had a valve that had to be open when coolant was added. This valve was at the high point of the cooling system, and the air in the system was displaced through the valve when the coolant went in. Lexus does not have such a valve, but they do have guidelines to follow to make sure that all air is removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SKperformance Posted August 27, 2004 Share Posted August 27, 2004 usuallyy it is just the thermostat to wait for to be bled but any excess air usually gets bled out naturally Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xxxavier2k Posted August 27, 2004 Share Posted August 27, 2004 I've had similar problems with over heating with my '93 windom. My fixes include, changing the radiator caps, changing the water pump, and manually flushing the radiator (not using the liquid radiator flushes but actually removing the bottom cap of the radator and running rods up the passagesto remove clogs). I also had my thermostat removed but i live the C/bean so i can do this maybe u can't, also replace all worn power steering clamps. I have abosolutely no cooling problems now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m2pc Posted August 27, 2004 Share Posted August 27, 2004 If it is a little low, add some distilled water. Unless you add a ton, your mixture should still be close to 50/50. When you mean a little low, is it below the low mark when hot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SKperformance Posted August 27, 2004 Share Posted August 27, 2004 others have removed their thermostats and have had no problems either after but it is more of a band aid than a fix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xxxavier2k Posted August 29, 2004 Share Posted August 29, 2004 Yeah I guess that's true Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mburnickas Posted August 29, 2004 Share Posted August 29, 2004 From what I have done is feel the top hose. If cool, it is air bound. Also it you squeeze the top hose you should hear the thermostat make a sound. If not, it if air bound. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuckb Posted August 29, 2004 Share Posted August 29, 2004 Is the fan coming on? Does not sound like it if it runs cool at speed. I agree w/SK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SKperformance Posted August 29, 2004 Share Posted August 29, 2004 Ok i think to be a bit mroe specific, what you are saying is when the engine is at full operating temperature or cold and squeezing the upper rad hose? Well first the upper rad hose is and outlet not an inlet for coolant. The thermostat is released with heat and releases towards the upper hose as if you are low on coolant you would not get any as the pump could not feed off skimming the top of the rad. So in order for a thermostat to release it is engineered to release in the flow or direction of the coolant not against it, since the nature of it is to open it would keep trying to shut it as the spring on it worn out and cause the engine to overheat .This is the reason why most cars that have a thermostat problem not working it tends to never get any heat while oveheating is from a pressure loss from a leak . So if the valve is on the side of the upper rad hose and releases towards it how is it that one would hear the thermostat ever make a noise since you would be basically pressurizing that side of the thermostat which would only make it seat better so what difference would it make ,it is like pushing on a door that pulls out ? Also how would you even hear a thermostat make noise inside an engine, sorry in all my years of fixing cars ,in college as a tech and at the and a nut at the track i have never heard a thermostat ever make a noise. Holding an upper rad hose that is cold means 2 actual things, their either is not enough coolant or the thermostat hasn;t opened yet. Since it is the upper rad hose you are talking about just open the rad cap pour some water in and it should be full. Sorry to pick apart your theroies but they seem way off and in the wrong direction, correct me if i am wrong, but that is why i spelled it out for you. Increasing the flow of coolant will decrease you temps such removing your thermostat, which is not recommened as the car needs to be a certain temp or you will be burning too muchgas as the engine is still in open lopp ecu running rich. the fan is most common for not functiong at full speed. or try a search and find out what all the other 92-93 owners found when they overheated like everyother ES of that vintage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mburnickas Posted August 29, 2004 Share Posted August 29, 2004 Yours is the long version but means the same thing. When you hold a rad hose and squeeze it you never hear the metal pin on a thermostat (makes a metal kitting metal sound)? I have done this on my lexus, Kubota tractor, gsxr1100, ML-430 and my old diesel truck. All do it and that is how I know if the system has air or a thermostat problems. Lastly, how do you know it is up to operating temp when the "moron" meter does work correctly? A much simpler way is to idle the car for like 5 to 10 and then feel the hose. If cold, you have a few minor things. Way off,could be but they work for me and I am not the only on to do this. This was a huge problem on my old diesel truck with a closed system with no overflow collant bottle. This is what had to be done (listen for thermo) from diesel grease monkeys. :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SKperformance Posted August 29, 2004 Share Posted August 29, 2004 Funny enough in the lexus manual it recommends removing the thermostat and boiling it in water until it reaches a certain temp and you see the valve open . If i have wasted enough time to open the engine to get a thermostat ,i think i am going to change it with a new one. If it worked somehow for you then ,hey i guess it does. Which is why i wrote everything out in the process to see where it is totally off in testing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mburnickas Posted August 29, 2004 Share Posted August 29, 2004 SK--I totally agree. I am going to waster about 1 hour to test a $15 thermo...sure ok!!!! All I know is what works and I am sure there are a billion trillion ways, as dr evil would say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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