Micah.Berry

I used white lithium grease spray, but I used it in short bursts, with a towel behind where I was spraying. That worked well for me. Micah

Hi Billy, Additional info: I ordered the complete bar because I don't have a shop press, and though I found a place to press out the old cushion, I'm looking to replace them on a Saturday, when most of the machine shops are closed around me. So my thoguht is for an extra $100 or so, I'll have a spare set of bars that I can replace just the cushion in down the road a bit (so to speak). I've also thought about selling the old bars to someone that just wants to install the cushion. I haven't decided, I guess. But I should probably hold on to them in case I install something incorrectly. Landar was kind enough to place some pictures on his Flickr account, which shows the strut bar disassembly (very helpful for me as I'm a visual learner). Assuming that I can get the old bars off, then I intend to use my floor jack to compress the suspension and then tighten the bolts. My question right now is that proper procedure would be to start the nut on the bolt, and then compress the suspension and torque accordingly (120 - 130 ft lbs.). You had posted some instructions a while back as I recall, and I intend to find them. I will most likely start a new thread for my upcoming installation questions because I don't want to thread jack David1walker's post (too much :) ) The short answer to your question is that I'm going to try and install them myself. I truly appreciate the guidance that I've received on this forum. Blessings to you! Micah

I second the recommendation for Sewell parts. Just ordered my front strut bars from them today! They were reasonably priced for new, OEM bars.

Wow! Congratulations! Micah

Seems like the wheels were not balanced correctly, based on your description. You said that it smooths out? Is there a certain speed at which the problem is recurring even after a few miles? If it were me, I'd take it back to the shop and ask them to double check. Especially if the problem didn't exist previously. If this doesn't correct the issue, then rotate the wheels back to their original position and see if that smooths out. Thanks, Micah

My RPM's are similar to yours when idling in drive, the engine is at operating temperature, and the AC compressor is off. Enjoy your car! Micah

I use a Belkin gadget for the iPhone. It's a cradle that charges the phone and is also supposed to be a speaker phone (where the caller's voice is routed to the stereo speakers). I use a cheapo cassette adapter into the Belkin's input, and the sound quality isn't bad, though as everyone knows, it's not CD quality. The Belkin is also supposed to be an FM transmitter too, but it is either so weak, or the Lexus stock radio reception so poor that I can't stand to use it. Thus, I use the cassette adapter, which I'm pleased with as there's no good way to upgrade to an iPod specific dock. The speaker phone would be perfect except that the microphone picks up an echo. I've tried all sorts of things to alleviate the echo, short of making my wife furious enough not to call me while I'm in the car. Checking voicemail is great, listening to conference calls that I don't have to participate in is also great. Because of the echo problem, I will normally use a bluetooth headset for any calls I make. The fact that the Belkin charges the iPhone, and sends my stored music, Pandora, or Navigon GPS directions through the speakers with only small amounts of cassette noise mean I would purchase it again, but only on sale, which is how I bought it the first time. Plugging the phone into the cradle is nearly as routine now as putting the key into the ignition. I rarely listen to broadcast radio anymore and I've used the CD changer may be twice. In order to use the cradle, I have to have it plugged into the cigarette lighter, which takes away from the clean look the dash would have with the lighter/ash tray closed. I don't have cords strung around the dash though, so that's good. Micah

Landar, Interesting note on the gumming... I am not a gas expert, but I did work for a fuel pipeline and storage company for a little bit. All fuel was supplied by the same pipeline to my area in NW Arkansas, 93 octane, 87 octane, and diesel. I learned that ethanol blends are not as "gummy-proof" as 100% detergent-infused gasoline. Our grades are mixed with ethanol if the filling station sources their fuel from my previous employer. Approximately 80% of my area got fuel from the pipeline company. My understanding is different areas are supplied different blends depending on state laws. I.e., what you pump in your tank in California will be different than what you pump in Michigan. Thus, again, following my understanding, Missouri has 100% non-blended gas for its premium unleaded. Blended fuel is allowed for lesser octane levels. Most interesting thing I learned was watching the system blend mid-grade fuel between regular 87 and 93 octanes as it was going into the truck. The other interesting fact I learned (which applies to my area) is the only real difference in the gas was the additives. Exxon, Texaco, Shell, etc., kept their own additives on site, which were pumped into the fuel as it was being dispensed into the truck's trailer. Your area may be different. There is an enormous pipeline that sends fuel from Brownsville (if I remember correctly), TX, to the Chicago area. My area is fed from that pipeline for unleaded, I know. I am a proponent of fuel stabilizers if the vehicle is going to sit for a long length of time, of which 6 months would qualify! I am also a proponent of finding a filling station that's fairly new and sticking with it. As always, thanks for your very informative posts. Micah

While not a mechanic, my thought is that a bad vacuum hose (or a couple) might cause starting to be poor nearly all the time with too lean a mixture. I hope that the hose replacement resolves the starting issue, and brings the mileage back! May be if left alone the problem would become worse as the vacuum loss increased with hose deterioration. Micah

Interesting!

SC430... <drool> Still, the LS is tough to beat! Micah

For the undercarriage cover, simply get some additional screws from Autozone or your favorite parts store. Take one out so you know what size to get, or give it to the clerk so he can find it for you. Should be very inexpensive. Note that there are two sizes of screws keeping the undercarriage cover in place. My undercarriage cover has taken a beating as well. It's something I wouldn't mind replacing, considering that, if nothing else, having the cover there helps keep the lower portion of the engine protected from splashes and bouncing rocks. If you are not confident in repairing the slow leak in the power steering system, then take it to a mechanic. This will only cause you problems in the future, and those problems could be very expensive... Regarding your note on asking for discounts on parts: Don't beat the mechanic up over his labor costs or parts costs too much... The mechanic needs to put food on his table too, thus he earns a profit from not just the labor rate but also the parts prices. If he is using better parts than what you would get from Autozone, you would expect to pay a bit more of a premium for the parts. While there isn't anything wrong with asking him to provide a discount, there usually should be some reason to do so (paying cash instead of credit, long standing and professional relationship, being a provider of referral business, etc). Showing him an advertisement from Autozone with similar parts that he is not going to install (or guarantee) probably isn't the most effective way to get a discount. May be you could ask for additional services, like an oil change, or a overall vehicle inspection, or wheel alignment, or wheel balancing if you agree to pay the posted rates. You could also call him in advance of going to his shop to see if he will install parts for you that you bring to his shop. In this scenario, you would not be perceived as badgering or nagging. If he will install parts you bring to the shop, you could save enough to purchase OEM parts online from Sewell or Carson. When someone goes outside the norm for me, I try to return the favor by doing something for them. Even something small, like buying them some donuts or coffee has a lasting impact, and I have benefited far more than it has cost me. Note that I'm not passing judgment, just giving you my thoughts as to what I've learned and has worked for me. I went through a very similar scenario when I need to get my first car repaired as a teenager, and someone pulled me aside to talk to me about a better way to approach the mechanic. Best of luck with your car! Micah

That's very kind of you, Billy! :) Micah

Billy, I know you're retired, but seems like you could earn a nice bit of fun money doing the routine maintenance on Lexus cars and SUVs. I hope you're getting something more than soda pop and a pizza for your trouble. (Sorry... I am an accountant ). Doesn't sound like it was too difficult, and as noted in an earlier post, you're the expert! B) Micah

Billy, PM sent. Micah

Just a quick note: I sent an email to Sewell a couple weeks ago, and they updated their parts catalog to include the tie rod ends. I received both the right and left side a soon after, and now just need a bit of time to put them on. According to the videos I've watched, replacing these seems fairly simple. While I know this will solve the slight looseness in the right wheel when I push/pull the wheel at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions, I'm also hoping it will solve the light "pop" sounds I get when I go over the lip of a driveway. After the tie rods, I'll change out the strut rod cushions based on the recommendations I received on this forum. (Thanks a million for everyone's input too). Hopefully, I'll solve the odd minor vibrations at freeway speeds with the strut cushions. For reference, I paid $104 and change to get OEM tie rod ends shipped to my door utilizing the online price with a Club Lexus discount. I thought this a good deal so I went with it over the Moog tie rod ends, which were just a little bit cheaper. Based on what I've read, Moog makes pretty good stuff, but the Toyota part is a known quality to me. Regards, Micah

That's nice mileage! I'm right there with you in terms of consumption on my 99LS. If I use the cruise control, my mileage is noticeably higher according to the computer than cruising without cruise control. I run about 27 - 28 mpg at 70+ mph on the freeway. Our terrain would be considered "rolling hills."

Beautiful car! Congratulations! Oh yes, nice of you to stop by, Billy! Regards, Micah

Welcome. That's a nice list of cars that you've had. The last LS430 generation before the current LS460 is my favorite - though the current design is catching my fancy more and more. Congratulations on your purchase! Micah

Good job! And nice write up!

Not quite sure how to search for "tie rod" as both words are less than the 4 minimum. So, I'll hazard a quick question: I'm trying to order a set of tie rod ends for my 99 LS. According to Sewell's parts diagram, the part number is 45470 for one of them. I *think* they are the same numbers as the GS300 and GS400 because that model comes up when I do a part number search. Sewell sells both tie rod ends for $94 and change total (+plus shipping). I simply want to confirm that if I order the GS part, it's the same part that the LS uses. Also, I'm fairly certain that this issue has probably arisen in the past. How do I get around the 3 letter limit on the search field? Thanks so much, Micah

Thanks axlservice and Army of One for the additional clarification and explanation. Micah

Thank you for the very informative post. I've bookmarked it. Micah

Timing belt isn't due at 60k (nor the water pump). Micah

Very interesting! I have not heard of using ATF as a cleaning agent for an engine that is "sludged." Just showing my inexperience here, but I thought valve stem caps were located on tires, and generally used for inflating said tires... Would the valve covers be cleanable versus replaceable? My valve cover on my old Miata was a snap to remove and could easily be cleaned and the cover gasket replaced. I realize that the LS has valve covers that are considerably more difficult to remove than my old Miata, but wouldn't they be just as cleanable? Micah