Micah.Berry

Will certainly do so. Thanks again. Micah

Billy, While I'm not near the next 90k service yet, I would gladly pay Jon $500 to be an apprentice, learning, twisting the wrenches, etc. the right way. Dallas is only 6 hours away, and Sewell is right there in your neck of the woods! Kaci (my wife) really wants to get back to Covenant - what a perfect "excuse"! :) Micah

I wouldn't worry about cleaning making the engine last too much longer, but aesthetically, it would look much nicer! I like a clean looking engine. Micah

That is a great price. While I'm no where close to California, I'm interested in your assessment once you get your car back. Micah

Did the guy who did the brakes turn the rotors, or did he simply install new pads? He should have turned the rotors - but it is possible that he did not. Did you do the front and rear brakes? I had a large shimmy in the steering wheel when braking that was cured with turning the front rotors. Much to my displeasure, I still have a slight shimmy when I brake from freeway speeds because I ONLY had the fronts turned. I left the rears alone. I realize that I'm going to have to get the rears turned pretty soon. As far as the clunk goes, jack up the car, and shine a light at the front of the strut bars where the cushion is. If you can see tears / rips in the rubber cushion, then you have a good place to start. Take a look at the other rubber components within the front suspension to look for rips in the material. On the upper ball joint, look for any rips and feel for any grease that may be escaping from behind, where you can't see. With the wheel up, grab the wheel at 9'o clock and 3 o'clock positions and see if you can feel any free play. Do the same at 6 o'clock and 12 o'clock positions. Realize that you will be able to turn the steering if both wheels are up in the air. You're looking for looseness/free play that shouldn't be there. These will give you some starting points for reference. When I reviewed your post, I didn't see what year model your car is. Mine is a 99, and strut rods and lower ball joints cured my clunk issue. If yours is a Gen 2, I am guessing that the strut rods need attention. As I recall, there was a redesign of some of the components when the 95 model was introduced, which weren't necessarily an improvement from a longevity standpoint. Micah

Completely agree with you, Landar! Shoot, I'd probably tear into my engine with my Dad there, because I trust him implicitly, whether or not he really knows what he's doing! (Ha!) It's nice to have someone show you the ropes, and getting the confidence to which you refer, is priceless. There are a few folks not related to me that I hold in such high esteem, for Lexus advice - you and Mr. Billy Powell among a select few others. Micah

As a first timer, I'm hesitant. While I enjoy tinkering on cars, a TB/WP change appears to be more than just a tinker. I'm pretty meticulous with my cars, but in my mind the cost of a mistake is pretty large. In our ES, I paid to have it done. When it comes time for the LS, I may spend a little more time searching the Internet for how-to's and videos before making the final decision as to whether to send it off or do it myself.

Hi all! My stereo was working fine in my 1999 LS400, until one day - on the way to pick up a pizza - I looked down and saw this Great... I drove around for a while like that, trying to get used to the readout, but it always bothered me. I ended up finding an eBay listing for a stereo that was coming out of the exact same year model! Yes! I won the bid with $35 for the stereo. The seller said "all operations work". I was very happy with this, and I finally found some time to install the stereo. The LCD worked GREAT!, but there was no sound. I guess "all operations" does not include having the stereo make any music... Well... I buttoned everything back up, and my family went on a little road trip last night. While I was driving, I thought I might try to swap the LCD screens from the stereo I just purchased to my existing stereo, and I would make a "how to" if it worked out great. First thing you need though is an LCD. You can pick a new Pioneer LCD screen. If you don't see one on eBay, try here: http://parts.pioneer...ductNum=CWM5077 This is the original LCD screen from Pioneer. Currently, as of this writing, it's $115.50 + shipping to where ever you are. (Nope... I don't work for Pioneer). Assuming that you have now have a replacement LCD, let's start! You will first want to place the gear selector in neutral (or a lower gear): You will then want to get a flat item to pry up the wood grain console. I used a paint scraper, and applied some electrical tape around the edge so as not to scratch anything: Gently pry and lift up. You can see the connectors for the heated seats, VSC and cigarette lighter: Disconnect the connectors for the heated seats (if you have them), VSC, and lighter. Lift off the console, and place where you won't step on it or put heavy tools on it. Now, you'll need to pull out the center vents. The first time that I did this, I nearly broke the wood piece just underneath. I listened to that still, small Voice that said, "Hang on, don't do that. Just look inside." Sure as shooting, there are two tabs, one on each side: Hopefully, I was able to capture it with the camera. You will be able to see it better in your own car. Insert a flat blade screwdriver and pry (gently) towards the center. On my car, I pry until I can put the edge of the tab on the inner edge of the air way. I then know that the tab lock has fully released. You should be able to wiggle the center piece with your hand: Take your pry tool and start from the top. Gently(!) pry the center vent into coming towards you. DO NOT USE TOO MUCH FORCE. If it doesn't come easily, make triply sure that you got the locking tabs unlocked. Now, slide the center vent out: Take the hazard light connector apart (be sure to pull the connector, and not the wire!): Go get a towel, and not your wife's good towel either. Place it over the center console. You will protect the center console sides from getting scratched, and it will keep little bolts from falling where you will never see them again. There are four 10 mm bolts holding the HVAC and radio to the dash. They are on either side. Here are two shots of one side: Take your ratchet and pull them out: Now pull the entire HVAC / radio unit up and towards you. Detach the connectors from the back of the stereo. I left the HVAC connectors plugged in. In the next picture, you can see the screws that you'll take out eventually. However, for now, I took out the three-per-side screws just to the right of my index finger. This is the bracket that holds the radio and HVAC together. I suppose this step isn't really necessary, but I am really glad that I took the stereo out of the bracket. It made it much easier to work on: Now you should have the radio out. Here it is sitting on my desk: You'll take out the screws from each side of the face plate (I've already removed them in these pictures): Take a flat head screwdriver and place behind each of the four tabs that help keep the face plate in position: Now pull the face plate apart (again gently). There is a single ribbon connector connecting the radio to the back of the LCD screen circuit board. You'll need to disconnect this from the LCD. I used a screwdriver to pry it out on each edge of the connector. This worked well for me. Needle nose pliers would also work well. Here in this picture, I have a screwdriver touching the connector. Don't pull on the wires!: Good job! You now have the face plate separated from the radio. This is the part that you are replacing: There are two screws holding in the LCD screen. Unscrew these and simply lift out the LCD screen unit: Put your new LCD screen in and reattach the ribbon connecting the LCD screen to the radio. Make sure it's fully seated: Reattach the radio to the brackets on the HVAC unit, plug the wires into their respective connectors, and reinstall back into the dash: Reattach the hazard light connector and slide the center air vent back into the dash. It goes in much, much easier than when you were taking it out! Remember where you hid your center wood grain console? Go get it and press it back into position. After this, screw the gear selector knob back into position. The moment of truth: YES! A working LCD! And finally, with my little iPhone bracket, which has proved to be most useful in holding the phone, taking calls using the stereo as a speakerphone, and listening to music. Apple's Siri can hear pretty well in a quiet Lexus. Not the best aesthetically, but very, very functional. Lastly, there are some additional pics that I uploaded, but didn't really use under the "attached" section. Feel free to disregard! Once you have a replacement LCD screen in hand, you should be able to complete this task in about an hour to hour and a half. Taking out the center air dash is probably the toughest part, because you want to be gentle to keep from breaking it. It is very expensive to replace!

I really like Sewellparts.com. I saw your compressor for $1162 there. Not exactly cheap - considering that includes forum discounts...

Just got back from the shop and a test ride of my 99 LS. Alignment was not badly off, but it was off nonetheless. I'm happy to report that the car is smooooooth at 80 mph with the new lower ball joints, alignment, and balanced, new Primacy MXV4 tires. I kept the old ball joints because I wanted to compare the stiffness of the joint with the new ones. With the new ones, I could barely get them to move using my thumb on top of the post, and pushing out from the center. Very stiff. The old ones had no tears in the rubber, but they are MUCH easier to move in any direction using the same thumb-push method. There was no up and down play in the old ball joint - at least that I could replicate by hand. I imagine this looseness had something to do with the weird vibrations that I felt. In addition to the smoothness, the car is much quieter at speed. In testing near 80 mph, I was traveling with the wind, reducing ambient wind noise so I could hear the road noise. With the HVAC off and the radio off, road noise was nicely muted, much nicer than before. Those tires were expensive, but if the quietness holds as they age, and they wear well, I would GLADLY purchase them again.

I haven't driven my car much lately. It's had a lot of time to sit in the garage. Anyway, this week, I tried to wiggle the upper control arm, trying to feel any play. There was none. I was really giving it the heave-ho, but I may not have been doing it by-the-book as the car was on the ground, and I was trying to make it move by hand. I've purchased 4 new Michelin Primacy tires that will be installed Wednesday, and the shop is going to throw the new OEM lower ball joints on that I've got at that time, followed by a four wheel alignment. I tried pulling off the caliper, and the bolts were on TIGHT. Wouldn't budge. And of course, since then, there is a slight "tick" sound from the brakes, once they're fully warm, now that I've messed with it (unsuccessfully). So, I'll report a little later after I've tested it how the smoothness has hopefully improved with the tires, balanced, lower ball joints, and a four wheel alignment. I get an annoying little vibration at 75 mph. My car drives straight as an arrow, but I know that doesn't necessarily all is well with the alignment or suspension points. It's a weird vibration. As I go around some gentle turnpike bends at 75 mph (yes, officer - that's the speed limit ;) ) the vibration completely goes away sometimes. It's so buttery smooth it's ridiculous. And then, when I straighten out, the vibration slowly comes back. Weird... My clunk issues have for the most part stopped... Another weird thing, but a good one! Bumps that caused clunks don't. I got one clunk somewhat recently, but that's been it for months now. Granted, I don't go around looking to hit potholes though. I am very glad to be getting rid of the Goodyear Integrity tires. They are worn on the inside, and according to owner's reports on Tirerack.com, it's a common complaint. They're also pretty noisy at interstate speeds. Here's hoping the Michelins are better!

She was thrilled! Took it for a quick drive last night. It is sooo much quieter than her Suzuki XL-7. The Suzuki, I have to admit, has been an excellent vehicle, surpassing my expectations for reliability and foul weather capability. We're keeping in in the family, giving it to my daughter to drive back and forth to school. The ES330 is in top notch condition, and the leather is soft and supple, and the engine is so quiet. My LS is quiet, but the ES is even quieter. This weekend, it will be treated to a Mobil 1 oil change. I've just purchased an owners manual via Ebay. Can any one shoot me the oil capacity? 5 quarts with a filter change? Thanks, Micah

I would recommend taking it to a competent mechanic for diagnosis. Show him exactly what it's doing. Then you'll be able to assess whether you need to be stressed. Figure about $70 - $80 as a fee for a diagnosis. Many times, if you decide to fix the car with the mechanic, he'll apply the fee to the cost of the repair.

Well, I'm the proud new owner of a 2004 ES330. It's not the same one that I mentioned in the above post. That one came back from the inspection needing just a little too much work. The 2004 that I purchased looks nearly brand new, and was maintained by the Lexus dealership according to Lexus.com. It has a few more miles than the 05 model, but still just less than 100k and actually is in better shape visually (and mechanically). Came back from inspection with a clean report, and costs just a little less than the 05 model. I get the car tonight! It will be my wife's car, and it will be a surprise for her. Glad to have gotten an inspection! Just a little extra peace of mind.

Thanks so very much for the help. I feel considerably more confident in the car at this point. I like everything else about the car. Adrian, your note is very interesting about my older LS being more safe. I hadn't thought about it from a structure/weight standpoint. I was thinking about side airbags (possible rear-side airbags as well) in the ES. I know my car has side airbags, but surely the design would have improved over the course of 6 years. Granted, the ES and LS are completely different models, so I recognize the flaw in my comparison. Gbhrps, I'd be glad to check with the car lots to see who they suggest as a repair technician. Excellent suggestion. Good to know there are others on the board who are experiencing the same issue. Once acquired, we'll immediately start saving up for the 90k service (has 86k miles now). Years and miles would indicate a timing belt/water pump service are due. Tires will be next, and it should then be good for a while (hopefully).

Hi all, I'm considering the purchase of a 2005 ES330 for my wife. We both like my 99 LS400. I've driven a few ES330s in my search, and they're very quiet and refined, just as I expected them to be. Prices are all over the board, of course - including those being sold by owners! I have noticed that every one of the ES330s that I have looked at have a passenger airbag cover that is bulging up and split along the seam nearest the front of the car. My question is would the airbag work if there's no airbag light? What about the risk of the airbag going off without a wreck? Has anyone else got the same problem? For lack of a better phrase, the dash looks as though it had taken a beating from the sun. I've spent time searching the forums, and haven't come up with any posts where the same question was answered. I would guess the only way to properly fix such an issue is a new airbag and dash top - very, very expensive. I would just assume purchase a different model than go through that repair. ES300 models, just before the ES330s don't seem to have the dash warp issue. I think I've looked at 5 different ES330s now, each with a bulge in the same spot, and if I recall correctly, they're all Southern cars. The one that I've identified as a potential purchase is low miles, clean, priced right, clean CarFax, but I'm going to have to travel to get it and test it out. If the bulge isn't a real issue, then it would be a perfect car for my family, and the safety features would exceed that of my 99LS. I told the dealer that I would give him a decision on Friday, if the car was still there. Thanks for any advice! Micah

If you go with the OEM strut bars, make sure you install (or have them installed) properly. My 99 is making clunk noises again having changed the strut bars in May of this year. While underneath the car, I looked at the strut bar cushions, and the driver's side looks like it has a tear in it. In fact, the bar looks torqued to one side. I've probably gone 8k miles since the install. Took back to the mech, who swears he installed properly. He also aligned it after the install. The car drives straight as an arrow, and is for the most part smooth on the highway (well - up to 75 mph). But I know that it's just a matter of time. New cushions are on the way to be pressed in to the old bars that I kept. I'm tempted to try to install them myself using the tutorial on this site. Mech said he would install and realign (the one side) for $50. Also bought lower ball joints just for piece of mind.

Not sure if the strut rod issue that is a part of the Gen 2 cars affects the 430s, but it'd be worth checking out.

Thanks for the photos!

Proceed cautiously - Rebuilt tranny at that mileage is a red flag (as VB as noted). Would lead me to question how the rest of the car was treated. You should ask where the rebuild was done - at Lexus or at an independent shop? If independent, do you know the shop? For me, it wouldn't be a deal breaker, but additional due diligence is warranted! Micah

Personally, I didn't have very good experiences with the FM transmitter. I bought a Belkin unit that also served as a charging stand, where I could place my iPhone. The stand plugs into the cigarette lighter and is reasonably sturdy. The Belkin FM transmitter produced a lot of static, and the during the brief times that it was relatively clear, the music quality was sub-par. I was very unhappy with the results, as they didn't measure up to what I had hoped. So instead, I use a cheapo tape adapter with the Belkin, which I've had for years, and plug into the aux out port of the Belkin. I wrap the excess cord around the base of the Belkin stand, and it's reasonably clean looking-no floppy cords. If I turn the music up on the stereo (with the volume low on my iPhone), there is a bit of tape hiss that I can hear through the speakers. The way I get around this is to keep the iPhone volume about 2/3 to 4/5 and keep the stereo's volume down. The hiss is virtually gone, and the sound quality is very good. Volume levels can get quite high with acceptable (to my ears) sound quality. I've found that if I keep the iPhone's volume all the way up, there is "clipping" that occurs with the speakers. Keeping the iPhone at 65-75% solves this problem. I'm very happy with the results, as I listen to music on the iPhone more than I use "regular" ol' analog radio stations. The stand allows me to see what's being played or allows me to utilize my Navigon GPS app, where the voice guided directions are played over the LS's speakers. Aesthetically, it is not the best as I have to leave the lighter tray open in order to have the Belkin plugged in, but functionally, it works great!

Thanks Billy! I don't think I'll worry about it if both of yours idle similarly, especially if there's no vibration or lumpiness to the idle.

Well - It starts!!! YEA! Hard to describe, but the starter sounds like it turns "faster" than the old one. Starts quickly too. Upon listening to the mechanic, I'm glad that I didn't try this one myself. Wheel balancing made a huge improvement too. Very smooth now up to 80 mph. Still a little front end vibration at 80, but I rarely ever go that fast (Honest, officer!). Turning the rotors solved the braking vibration as well (just the front were turned). It's now very smooth! Next two items - my radio display has now gone all funky. It's not all the time, sometimes it displays correctly, but it is very annoying when it shows weird. I figure that it'll continue to get worse. 2nd - low idle. It only idles low (in my opinion) when in gear, for instance, sitting at a stop light when at operating temperature, no AC. It will sometimes idle at 400 rpms, but it idles smoothly, not lumpy and no weird vibration. Weird huh? I thought I'd Seafoam it and see if that made any difference. When the AC is on, idle increases to about 700 ish. Any way, if I ask another question about this, I'll start a new thread, especially after I search a bit for other's experiences. Thanks for everyone's help and input! Micah

Thought I would follow up here. My starter motor finally gave up the ghost (mostly). I definitely got the "click" sound with no turning of the starter motor to turn the engine. Rats! However, I am sooooo thankful that the issue occurred while the car was in my garage versus on a road trip I was about to take my family on over labor day weekend. Had to fly out for work last week, but ordered a rebuilt starter from Sewell, which arrived by the time I flew in, and then got the car to the shop this morning with the starter and intake gaskets. It took a bunch of tries to get the starter to turn over, but it finally did, and I was so relieved that I wasn't going to have to call a tow truck. So the money I had saved to respray the front is going for my starter and install, which in my book is a bit more important! Hopefully the starter fixes my problem for the next 140 thousand miles! I'm also having the rotors turned and wheels balanced too while it's in there. I'll update after I get the car back and run it a little while. Thanks again for all the advice! Micah

I'm planning on holding on to the car for a few years, and I see the front of the car frequently. I think the $600 sounds like a good quote based on what I'm hearing. Thanks! Micah