cutlass275

YES! I did find the proper valve sold separately! A nice service manger (old school) at the local Lexus dealership told me these were GM relief valves! (Yes, Lexus bought some American parts to use on some of their cars in manufacturing).... This relief valve is Four Seasons part #35745. $16.00 total!! This part number crosses over to many different aftermarket AC manufacturers and can be bought at any parts store in the country! The pop off would be in the 400-500 lbs range and yes only Freon would escape. Lexus did NOT want anyone to know that these were U.S. MADE relief valves they used on their 1st gen cars! 16$...it screwed right in and my air is working great!

I just replaced the entire AC system with new parts. Denso compressor, Denso core, etc. The new compressors do not come with the top plate where the lines attach and etc....one must swap over from the old compressor. No problem but....The pressure relief (or pop off) valve is defective we find. Lexus will only sell the entire top piece ($300) even though the relief valve simply screws right into the side very easily. There are multiple thread sizes we see though and rather not resort to a junk yard valve. SO, does anyone know where I can by the valve alone? OR...one that fits....OR what the actual pressure it pops off is, as I have a vendor that I can buy valves like this from (Not necessarily automotive). Thanks

Just lettin ya know (if anyone is interested lol) that I found my miss. A 5 second fix, (it's usually the simplest things). It felt just like a vacuum line left off of a carburetor in older cars...I knew I finished and test drove late at night, which means, yes, I left something simple unattached. The air flow meter that connects to the air intake. Plugged it in and Walla ! Runs perfect... Thanks for the help and encouragement...next, when I get mentally prepared (lol) will start on the climate display.

Nope, the belt and all the timing line up perfectly. I noticed the crank sensor off center when I did the job, way over to the side of the housing, but didn't see any indication of damage, so thought it might have always been like that. I really don't see a way to straighten it out...wonder how perfect in the hole it needs to be? I'll look further...thanks Curious...

*UPDATE*....Just this week had time to jump on the timing belt project on my 91 LS400. The waterpump bearings had givin up, the WP shaft bent forward/down, and there went the TB. Worked about 4 evenings 4-5 hours per, didn't try to hurry (hence, no aggravation, lol)....and everything went beautifully. Hit the key, it cranked instantly and sounded wonderful ! Thanks for the help from all.... BUT...got a little problem. The car ran perfectly before the TB replacement.... Also sounded smooth when I cranked it up after I did the replacement, although I *thought* I heard a cylinder dropping a little as it sat in the garage when I was adding/checking fluids. Not bad though. Test drive, 5 miles, ran good, *although*, I still thought I felt a little weirdness. Started to rain, then the car surged, chugged, ran like crap. Push down on the gas peddle and it boggs, release the peddle a little and it picks up speed. Just ran crappy. One of two things I think. I noticed the crank sensor not centered as I was working. Pushed against one side of the housing actually. I'm thinking that's the problem, but there was nothing broke. No indication it wasn't always like that. Should I take the sensor out and try to see if I can straighten it someway? it didn't look as though it was bent from the TB or anything, (belt was still on all the gears, just shredded a bit). OR, one other possibility....I did leave the lower motor cover (the one under the car) off to watch for leaks for a few days, AND, I only lost one single part in this operation (was kinda proud I lost only one thing)...the little 1 inch diameter rubber plug that plugs the hole where the coil wire goes in to the left Distributor. Could the coil wire be this susceptible to moisture? Truthfully, I don't think it should be. Modern CD ignitions can usually literally take spraying a garden hose on em without missing. I think it's the crank sensor, but don't know how critical and exact centered alignment is? But the job itself, although time consuming, wasn't too bad. Thanks again.

Mile High....yep, I did copy and paste cause it wasn't a link....didn't really look it over very closely...put a "." where the DOT was...and it works...thanks...:)

Thanks for the encouragement, since this is an unexpected occurrence, the budget might require that I attempt the job. Lander, 45$ sounds great on the clock fix. Did you do it at home, or send it off ? Can you share your fix with me ? (although it's on the back burner now) CuriousB...I copied and pasted your link several times, comes up an error, I am very interested to see your experience. I've glanced at TB threads but so far haven't seen an actual Tutorial, although I haven't looked in earnest, mostly at the time looking for a post on bent valves. Will certainly need to find how to time the new belt, I have never worked on an overhead cam, nor twin cam motor. Quick question...Harmonic Balancer, do I need a Chevy style puller (to use the bolt holes) or finger type...i.e. is there rubber in the Harmonic Balancer ? (I have the finger type, my bolt on type got away thru the years) Perhaps it will be self evident when I look. Thanks again for all the help, I'm guessing I'll be here asking a stupid question before I'm done...;) PS...got plenty of metric tools etc, any special tools needed for this job ?

Thanks for the replies ! Wow, the mechanic shop I know has a big chart on the wall showing my motor is an interference motor. Your right, very happy if not ! I agree the water pump had to start the problem. Just because it had a sticker on the cover saying the TB was replaced on 7/09 doesn't really mean it was changed then, could have been a bit of a sales scam, really don't know. I did have a small amount of oil dripping from the front of the motor, a project that was going to wait till warmer weather. I suspect possibly one of the seals, which I will replace along with the idlers and tensioners etc. now that I know the valves are ok. I just freshened my race motor, but that's a 403 Olds motor in a Stock eliminator drag car, (several world records and about 175 wins or R/U's) and built many chevy's, Dodge's, a ford or two...but wonder if I'm adept at an import like this. I admit I'm not the best at the tedious part of mechanic work, the race motors are easy to get to, no brackets or paraphernalia to work around :) Thanks for the input from both of you, it really helped ! The code link is Gold, thanks ! PS, this car has always been garage kept and is in like new condition in and out. Only problem before this was the tach sticking, speedometer way off, and the usual clock display not easy to see. I have tried to read the threads on the clock display, it seems that the people that fix these go out of business as fast as they start. Larger problem now, those will wait..thanks...

I've owned this 91 LS400 for about a 1 1/2 years or so. 82,000 miles when I bought it, 90,000 now. Had a sticker on the timing cover that had 7/09 as timing belt replacement. (Probably pretty close to the recommended 60,000 mile mark at the time), so I thought I was good. Few days ago, car just stopped cold, anti-freeze flowing out the bottom. I am very mechanically inclined, (built many motors, including race motors, NOT a Lexus motor), I can tell by the sound of the motor turning over it has jumped time. Not a broken belt I believe, but from the odd sound that most mechanics can identify as a car that has jumped time. ( it won't start, but does turn over, in an odd way) I realize the belt driven water pump probably created this issue, or visa versa, doesn't matter at this point... New belt, waterpump, seals, labor will be $1000.00. *BUT, do I have bent valves?* THAT, is the question. By the chart at my local mechanics shop indicates, this IS an interference motor. I was driving only about 50 mph at the time, not under acceleration (yes these things can matter). It would be a hassle, but possible perhaps to do a leak down on a few cylinders to determine if it has bent valves. Does anyone have any experience on a 400 jumping time, or even breaking a belt ? What's your best guess on if I have bent valves or no ? Thank you

I saw the site glass next to the passenger side headlight, figured it was there, but couldn't for the life of me find the wires or switch. I'll look again tomorrow, thanks.

'91 Ls400. The freon got a little too low and now the compressor won't start. I can't find the switch to jump accross to start the compressor so I can put some freon in. Should be around the dryer/accumilator area...anyone know ? Thanks