mburnickas

just wondering, why are the pads so much $$$?

My 98 says the same thing but the 87 comes first. Then the extended performance deal. You could use 87 and be fine. From dyson testing, most fuel adds out there WILL show up in oil testing via higher wear. He stated FP60 will not show up. So far, he is right. No wear issues. When I used two other adds, 2 wear numbers went through the roof. Problem with MMO is it does not clean or adds to the energy effect to the burn process. It lubes at best. Fp60 cleans, an anti-oxidation, lowers gel in diesel, reduces friction in fuel pump. These are some thing verified by Dyson. Now MMO, I do not know it is does anything.

you use the add in the any fuel but anything above 87 is wasting money. the Fp60 will increase burn etc.

I posted on Fp in your thread. Now I have used LC20 and now using AutoRX. Try to see what s better. LC20 cleaned major crap out of my oil and I used Amsoil since I got it. I also know under the valve covers is clean. Lc will extend oil changes, lower wear numbers (big time) and keep acids / viscosity in line.

I have posted o FP60 and LC20 a few times on this forum. But that being stated, I have used both items since last Dec/Jan. Fp60 – for me increased MPG on my car over 1.0+ MPG and the wife’s is almost 1.0 MPG. This is using my records for the last 4 years on both cars. I know FP60 stopped the pinging on my wife’s car without upping to the next octane on fuel. Both cars are smoother at idle and accel. I started using both since reading on BITOG and emailing Terry (owner of Dyson Analysis). I thought most of these outcomes with 100% BS until I tried some. Even use it in my gsxr now; go rid of the stupid lag in accel. Not everyone gets more MPG when using it for some odd reason. But there is a 100% satisfaction guarantee with it. Do not like it, send it back for a full refund. I would tell anyone to at least get FP60. Now for Lc20, I could go on but you asked about Fp only :)

Yeah the lower the Octane the more combustion there is, the more power u get, but the 1mz-fe are prone to ping with lower octane which can trigger the knock sensors. I use 91 Octane from Sunoco since there the only gas station that has 91 Octane in my area. Try using the lower octane if you here your engine knocking use the higher Octane. I was told to use the cheapest gas I can find and use FP60; This was from Dyson Anslysis (oil testing house).

Nope, unless you are use dishsoap.... B)

Same here in MA thanks..I have never here a whind shield called that..Learn something new everyday

thanks, but how? Those two items are supposed to be OEM but I just don't know what the differences are? and by the way how many cam and crank seals do I need to buy for a timing belt job? TIA It is either 2 cam and 1 crank or the other way around. Now clue about the other belt.Go to newlexusparts for all oem to your door prices.

why not buy an OEM belt online for $46.99 to your door?

Maybe try it on a small panel of the car, you might be surprised here! :D :D :D Gotta go do mine again tonight...I have some pix from last night. I drove 100 miles today..in the rain. BEFORE: After:

do not know about easy wash but ONR is cheaper when compared to PA http://autopia.org/forum/showthread.php?t=67767

http://www.jeffswerkstatt.com/acrylic-glos.php Jw AG is my QD king on my car ---sorry for winters I am using this: http://www.optimumcarcare.com/norinse.html

I agree better to be safe then sorry. ONR is about 15 minutes. A QD is approx half that and that is also rejuvenating the AJ too (at the same time). I am not expert and QD do work if you know the process and how to use them correctly. If uncertain, do a ONR or PA wash. If those bother you drag out the hose. I have tried to get ONR to be quicker then a QD, not gonna happen. Now that being stated, if you buy a good QD product it will have plenty of emulsifiers and lubricating agents (most times more then car wash soap alone), you will be fine. You, the end user, needs to know what you can and cannot clean. I have also just stated to use RO/DI with ONR now. See if it makes a diff.

BINGO! There is another forum I go to (non-lexus) and most of the little kids say they own there business. They detail there cars. They look good but there processes, attitudes etc leave much to be desired. They think a $60 full detail is the same as a $400 one. They think all you need is walfart MFtowels and any wax...so sad.

I agree but I do use JW AG now and it leaves no marring etc. The longest I have gone is 6 days, 5 days of rain, 185 miles...10 minutes and back to shine etc. Talking with Jeff, you let the towel (MF) own weight to clean. If the user pushes on the MF, you might marr/scrath surface. So far, works pretty good. That reminds me, have to do it tonight. Been 212 miles (90+ temps) (gone to Hartford 3 times for work). I can take pix? I like ONR but it takes too long (60& longer) ...That will be my main wash in winters

Ok, gonna look very dumb here, but what is the front glass shield?

No, you do not need to clay the car every time you wax. See how bad the surface is. I do a QD everyother day; on my car using JW AG and my wifes car get CG PD.

Depends. More layer are better. I would re-apply complete detail every 3 to 4 months (max). This is the pitfall of a Wax. They do not last that long. A sealant will last longer. But, both have different shines. I would use Optimum No rinse to wash. I would QD (quick detail) the car every other day (5 to 10 minutes) with some like FK425, Chemical Guys Pro Detailer, Poorboys Spray & Wipe etc.. Clay could be Magic Clay etc. Klasse is a brand not really a process. I would do a search on here or http://autopia.org

Thanks for the advice- Oh wow 10 year warranty!!! Are there any restrictions and how do I find more info on the "recall" Is it pretty common for a car with that many miles to see a head gasket problem like that? And do the symptoms sound like that type of problem? One more thing I noticed was when I accelerated while the temp was hot the car knocked like trick or treaters on a rich mans door, you think maybe just hot air getting to the motor??? If your interested in checking out how clean the car is you can see it here- http://www.adamscarconnection.com/detail.php?stock=ACC119 Thanks again, this site rocks Jerry 8 years. http://home.comcast.net/%7E94gsxr1100/lexus/oil/Sludge1.pdf

Unless it is something new, that is 100% new to me. 99% of Lexus takes ATF Dex 3. My 98 is something like this; WARNING INFORMATION: Do NOT use "power steering" fluid in your Lexus power steering reservoir. Some automotive manufacturers use a specialized "power steering fluid" in their PS systems, but Lexus power steering systems are designed to use "automatic transmission "fluid (ATF) as the hydraulic fluid. However, you can use any Dexron II or Dexron III ATF (i.e. Toyota ATF) to fill the PS reservoir.

hmm, are you sure you are correct? I would say your PS needs ATF fluid not PS fluid.

my guess is nope. But I know you can put the light assemly and cook at like 250 F for XX minutes and it will un-glue the clear plastic lens (lexon or whatever it is). I have not done this but have seen many do this.

you mean, "mature" paint... :whistles: :whistles:

I agree. Mine has slight to mod spots but with over 100K miles and living in MA (driving everyday) that is normal.My car still looks better then 90% of them out there! :D