Toysrme

The chance that a modern japanese fuel filter get's clogged is somewhere between hell freezing over & remote. Yes, they're life long fuel filters. So long that Toyota doesn't even specify a time change, or inspection interval in the manual. Not just the manual, but the factory service manual! They should normally have around 100-150 ,000 mile lifespans & they have a hard time clogging. *hint* along with how they're constructed, if you ever take your pump out & inspect the fuel pick-up @ the bottom of the tank between the baffles, you'll find out why! :D

shhhh, she's a girl. She doesn't need to be spending pamper money on head machining yet LoL! (More like 25-30bhp from the head porting. These heads are really pretty good to only be picking up like 4-6bhp per cylinder from porting + valve goodies. So far Sean's the only one with high quality porting & he picked up 30-35 from it. 40's stretching it a bit less you bump up compression, or install larger valves, but I'm really just splitting hairs heh.) Just don't be afraid to get those nails dirty rosecityrain! Like I said, great excuse for a nail-job! LoL! Besides, chicks that work on cars instantly get a +6 bump on the hawtness scale!

=) GJ! Swar bar bushings & end links if you have aftermarket upgraded links. *Especially* If you have an ugpraded sway bar with poly mounts. They are so freaking LOOOOUD LoL!!! (All poly eurathane mounts for that matter!)

Yep, the IAC is it's own cleaning activity.

Mine was broken! =)

Normally, it's either 87-89-91, but sometimes you see combinations of 87-89-91-94. 89 is mid grade ya. The IAC. =) You're quick LoL! Just wait & have hubby do it. Tho I'm sure you could do it, you might get a little dirt on your fingers / nails. (Then again that *would* be an excuse to get your nails done! Just clean them up first 'cause you'd hear a lot of giggling in a language you probably don't know!) See, I understand these things! Your IAC is on the back side of the top of the engine. Meet your IAC valve You can take it all the way off if you want. It's 2 * 12mm bolts. It has: Red = Air hose from the intake. Pink = Vacuum line for the power steering adjustment Blue = water by-pass hose Light Blue = Electrical connector for the IAC Green = water by-pass hose Orange = vacuum hose for throttle body Some people get confused on where hoses go, but if you just take off the end of a hose you're working on, they naturally stay in the general area they're suppose to go. ;) The idle valves clog/gum up so it's good preventative maintenance to clean them out every so often. Once every year, or two I guess. Unless you're having idle problems it can wait. Then again it would make a good afternoon project + excuse to get your nails done.

Sorry... Just ranting. Nissan really has me *BLEEP*ed off right now. Seafoam (for engine's) is 45% Naptha oil & you're only using a cup of it. It would be like putting a half cup of kerosene, or light weight oil into the oil instead of putting a full quart, or running it off straight light weight oil to flush it out. (Or god forbid some people still lubricate off straight kerosene, or desil fuel during a flush!) It's a safer version of flushing. Think of it as flushing for dummies. ;)

Actually no, but they were. (You're thinking great, what an answer!) In the early/mid 90s gas companies began putting tons of additives in their gas & the quality of it was great! Then the government thought it was a good idea, so they stepped in & mandated XXX amount of additives in gas. Unfortunately, they mandated a few times less additive than the big gas companies were actually putting in & all of them went back to lower levels of additives. So it's a yes-no type of thing. Gas is way better than it was in the 80s early 90s, but it's worse than it was say in 1998. Back when it was really good you could run most non-turbo / supercharged engines on Chevron, or Shell 87. If it makes you feel better, use higher octane. It's just that with our engine, 87 is all it needs so I really don't like seeing people pay 30 cents more for premium. Other than marginally better fuel additives & normally slightly worse mileage / power, higher octane gas isn't any better. (And if you're *really* wanting the additives, you can buy Techron in a concentrated bottle for a few dollars & just use that every few months! :D )

:) arrrrrrrrrr!

I'll take something that will clean that *BLEEP* off over what Nissan has to say any day. *BLEEP* I just got finished replacing a mother f'ing MAF sensor they've had TSB's for over 650,000 units on the '02 Maxima. They've had the same problem on all their MAF's since the early 90s. Recall? Hell no. Cheap *BLEEP*s. It's no wonder Nissan is in the pits. (Maybe I'll get lucky & they'll fold the car division LoL!) A freaking WEEK after the warrantee runs out... Drain your oil. Refill with 0, or 10 weight oil. Let the engine idle for 10-15 min. 20+ is dangerous. Drain the oil again & you'll wish you'd use a cleaner more often! Especially with the 1mz-fe's. I'd be scared to death of one sludging, evne tho I'm the biggest "It's not really a problem if you change the oil in the first place" supporter. I'm not a fan of oil additives either after BITOG nailed Lucas additive to the wall! But ya gotta get the built-up crap out somehow!

That's great. Here's what Lexus & Toyota think the inside of your 1mz-fe should look like after only 6 years of ownership & power is down 5-10 horsepower across the board. Old pics of my 3vz-fe @ 95,000 miles. (Keep in mind, you guys with the newer MZ family engine have this problem two-three times as bad as earlier ones did. That gastly overactive EGR system. BLAAAH! LoL!) This is why the tornado gas saver doesn't work on our cars... All the turbulence & fuel clinging to the carbon is like having one stock & we all know... Two tornado gas savers takes away the power one tornado gas saver gives! Bawahahahahahahahahahaha

Off-topic. He should charge yall gas money for rides in the 390whp beast LoL! 780cc injectors fed by 510lph pumps suck down a boat load of fuel! Single digits I'm sure.

The normal oil change interval. 5,000 miles.

Seafoam makes the world go round! Not really, but at $5 a can it's a steal. A can is 1 pint. You need 2 cans. Pour 1/2 a can in the gas tank when you stop to fill up. (This ensures it mixes well) Pour the other 1/2 in with fresh engine oil. At the least you will notice that the engine will idle noticeably smoother. Here's where most people get confused. Using it down the intake to clean the combustion chamber & parts of the head. 1) Drive the car around the block until it comes up to temp 2) Pour 1/3 of a can into a separate container 3) Crank the engine 4) Pull the brake booster hose off & put your finger over the end so the car doesn't lean out & stall. 5) Drop the hose in the bottom of the container & let your finger off the end. If the engine doesn't stall out completely SHUT IT OFF ASAP. The fluid will near instantly disappear & the engine should stall from being too rich to run, or being too lean from the hose letting air in afterwards. This will not break your engine. You're not using enough fluid to hydrolock it. 6) The engine should sit for 5 min. 7) Crank the engine & let it run until the smoke dies down Normally you will get an ungodly amount of smoke. 8) As the smoke dies down, drive the car around. Be sure to make liberal use of 1st & 2nd gear to get to the higher portions of the RPM range a few times. That would be 5000-6850rpm.. You are not breaking your engine by running it at those rpm... All of the computers on all of the engines will cut the fuel to slow the RPM down before the engine is damaged. Yes, they are built for it... Why someone would want to do this? To clean gunk, sludge, & misc. heavy buildup out of the oil system. Pump, passages, bearings, walls. To clean the fuel system. To clean carbon out of the combustion chamber. Now some people ask why you want to go to the trouble of cleaning carbon out of the engine. Because as it builds up on the valves, they don't seal as well - causing poor compression while the leaking gas superheats parts of the engine that are not designed for it. Because carbon in the combustion chamber is bad. mmmm kay? Any carbon becomes superheated. Superheated carbon / metal will cause the incoming fuel & air to ignite earlier than it should be. This (Detonation, pinging, kocking - all just names for pre-ignition) is very derailment to many aspects of engine life. This is what a 3vz-fe looks like @ 95,000 miles. (Forget the fluids, fluids spill look at the black carbon build-up) Here's what it looks like 6 months after the last 3 Seafoam treatments. Seafoam = Good. It's cheap & versatile, while working at least as good as anything else; regardless of the cost.

lenore yes. The valvetrain still has to come out & if the valvetrain is out - the heads might as well come off for newer, higher quality head gaskets that have become resent available to us! (Victor's Nitroseal @ Napa are the strongest non-custom replacements out for 2vz/3vz's since they don't get the multi-layer-steel gaskets later v6's now have access to.) It's also a great time to get any valve adjustments / valve jobs done. rosecityrain "I like my money right where I can see it... hanging in my closet!". Later engines are tuned to run on higher octane gas. Yours (ours) is not & sees no benefit from it. Performance actually lowers because the gas is more stable than it needs to be. Normally, you give your car to a mechanic (Or performance shop) & if they have something to do requiring metal working (Like engine building / custom work / good valve jobs / porting) they'll send the stuff to a machinist. If you just give a machinist what they want, normally you can get a good deal if they need to do something. They don't do mechanical work. Unfortunately They won't take your car apart for you. (I was just throwing the idea out there. Most "common" performance mods don't do anything for our engines. Regardless of how their parts may look, the factory did a good job & most of the time there is no-to little performance to gain.) I'll just break down & write a guide on Seafoam.

Miata lights ring looks good! Rare Series 8 RX-7 tails are fairly hot. LED semi-truck lights are always in style! That would work *so* much better on an ES tail than a Camry one.

Ya what sk's telling you. Valve stem seals are nothing. They're so funny! They're $1 a pack of 12, but you have to take the heads off & the valvetrain out to change them! hahahahahahahaha It's not urgent. I wouldn't even worry about them (by themselves) until it's just embarrassing you so much. Whenever you do break down & have them done, take the heads to an engine mahcinist & have them cleaned, checked/repaired, & a valve/shim job done. If you're a pimp, a $150-200 3-angle valve job + $100-200 quick porting & polishing job will make them flow much more. Cheap power if that's your thing! =) As always, I suggest quitting premium gas. The 3vz-fe was designed to run 87, then detuned from that point. Save your $4-5 a tank from not running premium for other maint. Like spark plugs, or transmission fluid changes. Shoot the money off one tank of gas most places could buy a big bottle of brake fluid + a quart of transmission fluid, or enough transmision fluid to change the powersteering & differential! Heck! Two tanks would buy a new rotor & cap for the distributor, or an air filter/air filter adapter+pod filter. Three tanks, you could add an auxillary transmission cooler, or an oil filter relocator, plus an aux oil cooler! LoL! The possibilities what you can do constructive for car life @ $5 every week or two is endless. =)

Ditto.

rgr. cc. Normally, the EGR pipe has 2 bolts, 2 8mm allen bolts in the front, 2 14mm nuts on the side holding it on. Really its just getting the nerve to pull all the rubber lines & stuff off. In the worse case, if you just take off the sides that connect to the upper intake - they still point exactly where they're suppose to go. LoL yall aint gotta jump on his back. I just wanted to make sure he understood he should have searched first. ;)

Tails will! Best exterior mod going. IMPO For what it costs, I wouldn't bother playing with the front. That's just me tho.

It's nothing, yvw. Piggybacks are fine. Easy to use & fairly easy to install depending on what you're trying to do. I've got an smt6 & love it to death. Watch ebay every day for a week. There's normally an SAFC a week that get's sniped pretty low. SAFC's are the easyest to install & normally use. newer ones ahve the pretty blue screen. I'm not a fan of them becuase they can only do one thing, but i have different needs so... They're good stepping stones for future mods too.

All HID's have to be self-leveling to be DOT legal, so I'm sure the factory ones are.

No not quirky, but they have no vvt-i. You might as well get vvt-i if you're buying one. The MPG difference really isn't much between the 1uz-fe, 2jz-ge & the v6's. The v6's normally get 22-25mpg, the 2jz-ge & 1uz-fe's normally get 18-22. Really depends on how you drive. (To me the MPG difference between them falls under the Prius syndrom. Tho I love the new prius's, you have to ask yourself the question, "why the hell would someone buy one just for mileage?" It takes way too long to pay for itself & start saving money, while you can just turn around & buy a diesel, or nearly any late model M/T Civic if it's just *that* important to get MPG & save a boatload of money all around!) Wierd, Miatas have a good snow reputation with most owners. '01 had the option for NAV. I'm not sure about years before that, somebody else can chime in.

Most reliable? You could argue it, but I'd say the older ones are. All of them are reliable. Snatch a '99-01. Personally, you've got enough money to buy an LS400. Buy one of those. Not that we have any underlying reliability issues, but the 1uz-fe is the strongest factory mass produced car engine... Probably ever. I'd drop a year or two for a newer ES & get an LS.

Camry book.