Toysrme

Clean your IAC valve.

Dexron-III. You can get 4 quart jugs of Super-Tech Dexron-III for like $5 at walmart. it's good stuff to flush with & change often! ;)

A drain & fill is where you drain it & refill it. (Then drive around the block, or in your case, jsut let it run a min & shift into every gear position & back to park) then repeate that 3-4 times. A flush is where you pump, or let the transmissino pump 100% fresh fluid in & expel the used fluid out. Usually accomplished at home by disconnecting the hose going to the ATF cooler & dropping that in a container (For old fluid to go in) & cranking the car & letting it idle in drive (Don't let it move!) Continually adding fluid. Best to have someone else with you to add fluid & many people do a drain & fill before starting it so it doesn't take as long. Anways... You'll see nasty old fluid, then more & more pretty new fluid coming out. (Do the return hose so you get the fluid out of the cooler too) A few feet of clear PCV tubing is cheap, along with the 3/8" barb to attach it to the stock hose.

If you didn't drive it far you're fine. Bad / low fluid causes a different friction on the clutch , and the clutches have less rpessure holding them in gear which causes them to slip. If you didn't go very far with it slipping, you've done nothing mroe than add a bit of pre-mature wear on them. Forget the diagnosis, you're going to be told it's dead. Flush the transmission fluid out. Go to walmart & buy a few 4 quart jugs of Super-tech Dexron III ATF. Do a whole bunch of drains & fills, or flush it at the house. Anyway... You need to flush it.

While you're there check the CV boot. If it's split, it's time for a new axle.

IPT is the premiere builder of Toyota transmission in the performance world. They are one of only a few. They are the highest regarded, are the only company to successfully build an A54X transmission to hold 350bhp+. (Tony Leung's '94 Camry is holding 392whp - that's 501bhp) If my transmission were slipping right now, I would buy IPT's blue plate special kit. If you're realy looking to add some performance, that's the way to go. Mod the valve body. Shift springs, Accumulator springs, drilll the correct passages that feed them ever so slightly bigger. I modified mine, but it's probably going to take me another round or two, or three to get it ironed out. AFA the oil pump, if you're gonna build a race transmission you should consider a high output pump. The torque convertor. Yes! Adding a thousand rpm to it's stall (2500 to 3500) will pick up about 2 tenths in the 1/4 mile. I would suggest... Figuring out what powerband you want to end up with before you pick a torque convertor. That way you can maximize the affect you will have with the TC. You can have the differential rebuilt with an LSD in it if you want. It'll be relatively expencive. I have a secrit lower cost way of doing it, but it's never been verrified to actually work. ;) It really depends on the power you want. If you're drag racing an LSD will help alot... Until you make enough power to really spin both wheels. At which point it's really not helping you a whole heck of a lot. Sean has an n2o kit for sale still. 220 is impossible. It would require a compression bump from stock 9.6:1 (which I've found numorous times to be 185-190psi depending on much you torque your heads down.) to the 10.0:1+ range. You've most likely got oil in your cylinders, giving you an extra 20-30psi of compression. Ported, Polished with a good 3-angle valve job. Work on the bowl, cut down the short side radious, unshroud the valves. Replace the o-ring, or clean all of it off & use some Ultra Black RTV. I used that when I made my oil-filter relocator. (You can find that thread). It does. It is an aluminum pipe that runs from the passanger side to the driver's side, makes a 90* turn & comes back. It has little fins on it. I added another cooler I got off ebay, but have yet to do an in-line filter. Don't forget to build a y-pipe! Kill the cat if you have one & don't have emessions. If you do... eBay a high-flow one & have it welded in with the y-pipe. I was kinda ehhhh when sean told me forever ago how bad the stock cat is even tho it is 2.5". His was clogged. I got rid of mine & it was in good shape. It does make a small difference once you start getting past 5000rpm.

Obviously. If neither the engine/transmission computer, nor the cruise control computer really know how fast the car is going - it's not going to be able to us the cruise control. Ya that's the $30 Universal one that fits. I've got 2 of them. You don't need a manual. it's on the rear exhaust manifold, passanger side. It's held on by one 12mm nut & one 12mm bolt. Unbolt it, clip it's harness off (leaving wire on it to work with), solder / crimp it on the new sensor. Installation is the reverse. AFA the PDF. Open it & hit control+shift+F Type search for oxygen sensor

My favorite story is still when the guy told me on AIM Jiffylube put powersteering fluid in his master cylinder when he let them flush the brake fluid out. Normally I'd trouble shoot that... But Take it to a mechanic & let them have it until it's fixed. JL needs to pay.

Checking the resistance on the coolant sensor will show it's good. I'd take it back apart & start checking any wires, or traces for shorts.

Somebody's shorted something.

To check the fluid level Run the engine until it hits oeprating temp, Shift to all gears & back to park. Then check the dipstick. You want a bright pretty red that doesn't smell... Like burning transmission fluid. (You'll know it when you smell it, or don't smell it.) The best thing is to just drain all the fluid out of the pan & take the pan off. That way you can see what all kind of mess is going on with the fluid, buuut. Not exactly a project *every* mom wants to do. ;)

After you do the fluid, check / adjust the kick-down cable. If it's loose, when you step on the gas you'll twittle your thumbs for it to shift. Then it'll make a big plump shift when it finally shifts.

They make the gen4 Camry strut, I haven't see one on eBay for awhile. My aftermarket replacement struts off eBay have done great & I've been in my engine bay more than anybody. ;)

Start by cleaning your IAC valve, throttlebody, and EGR valve. For that matter take the whole upper intake manifold off & clean it by hand. You'll gain back 5-10bhp. It mighta come with 189bhp, but you're probably running 179bhp on your best day just from carbon build-up. Plugs, or distributor cap & rotor need changing Check fuel pressure idling (37psi), with the FPR's vacuum line unplugged (41psi), and 5 min after the car is shut off (20psi). Vacuum leaks

Stacked plate cooler. Not a tube & fin. Normally cheaper on ebay, or a junkyard. If it's used, be sure to clean it & make sure it'll hold a little pressure before you try to use it. ;)

It's slipping. Start by checking the fluid level & flushing the fluid. Fluid is cheap. Adjustthe TV (kick-down) cable if the '98 has one. (I forget if it did or not). THEN take it to a transmission place if it's not any better. I don't care how reputable the shop is. They're gonna see a slipping transmission & regardless of the cause, or how bad it is, talk you into rebuilding it anyway. Because unless you take the transmission apart... You can't see the clutches! & that normally means more apart than just dropping the pan! Tho you can see all the black aprticles from clutch wear in transmission fluid. That being said... Obviously I can't diagnose it on the itnernet, but it's a pretty big shot in the dark it can be solved. It's been like this for awhile, so he's most likely worn down the 1-2-3 clutches completely, nessecitating a rebuild, or replacement. When a transmission starts slipping, you park it & don't move it until you can atleast check fluid level & flush the fluid. (And check the fluid pressure is a good idea too, but not something most people have a gauge for.) Most of the time... It's just fluid left in there too long, with too much crap in it, a low fluid level, or a combination of both. If you catch it immediately, you can fix it before you completely wear anything & you still can get a good service life out of the transmission. Smack your son in the head for wasting mom's money by being an idiot :chairshot: & tell him by that driving a slipping transmission even a few miles, you destroy the clutch that's slipping completely.

No, Yes, Nothing is impossible.

First post! ^ Insert time interval there! :D

¡¡¡SK, Hellooooooo flex shaft + 80/120 grit flap wheel sanding drum!!! That pwns cleaning the intake tract!!!

Chair + Cranium = Ouch. The dealers use whatever they want, most of them stick to big name products they can buy in bulk. * Fuel system cleaners are just not generally neded. * Throttle body / Carb / WD-40 / Cleaning lubricant, is found at most places for like $1.50-5 The aerosol intake cleaner looks pretty cool tho. Dear lord the amount of SF, MMO, Kerosene, carb cleaner & lubricants you could buy for $50!

There are lots of companies out there. Search here, and the Camry forums. d2, JIC, ect.

n2o -> home made turbo / supercharger Nothing beats n2o when it comes to price / performance. $500-750 will get you anywhere around 15-500bhp worth of n2o. Use wet shots. Personally, it's a bad idea to exceed a 75 horsepower wet shot on any engine without upgrading the fuel system.

Good job! :)

The best thing would be to register your car @ Lexus.com, and get them to send you an owners manual for free. You can also download the '05 FSM in the stickied FSM post.

Go to a parts store. Alt's are not a big deal. A 10mm socket, a 12mm socket and a 14mm socket. If you have a system, consider the Highlander's optional 130amp alt. It's a drop in.