teelias

Does it work with your 2006 Rx400h? Does it use the radio screen? Can your read it?

According to Vaistech, NO. Because of Lexus' design, it will not scroll in the 2006 RXh. 2007's and on will.

Lexus has them for ~ $40.00

Call your local toyota dealer (not lexus) and tell them you need a yellow outside door handle rod clip. The are ~50 cents apiece. Lexus will only sell the complete handle for $125 Compliments for SanDiego Took off the other door panel and realized the end to the rod goes way up top. Hard to see if your not looking way up there in the top corner. Doesn't give you much room to work or even to see. Took off the yellow clip so I know what I need. When I searched this subject someone said the part number for the plastic clip that holds the door actuator rod into the outside door handle. Driver's side part #69293-12060 passenger side part #69293-12050. They said they paid $4.77 plus tax from the Toyota dealer ship.

Yes it will fit. Go to ebay and you should be able to find one for < $150

Get a used one from ebay and R & R the little harness. If too much on ebay, let me know, I have a few spares

I agree with Bess, however, when you find the valve, just swap the 2 vacuum lines and voila, heat. However, do not forget to swap them again in the summer...............

I bought the small Sirius Oval with the car kit. I then hard-wire the cable to the cigarette letter wire and used Velcro fasteners and stuck it to my ashtray-as I don't use it. All of the extra wires sit inside the ashtray and the bracket (included with the radio) covers the antenna and power connection. Works great and I did not have to modify my car. In my other SC-400, is bought the Xm Roady and used the "air vent" attachment and mounted it to the drivers side air vent. I ran the wires in the dashboard seam. Works well but cosmetically it has a lot to be desired.

Place the car in neutral. Remove the shifter handle and the black plastic shift-gear indicator. Look straight down the shifter lever and you will see it at the 10 o'clock position. If anyone has spilled a soda, coffee etc. on that center console, chances are it landed on the switch. Use WD-40 on the switch and activate it several times by stepping on the brake while watching it.

Struts, Sears struts-they will install for free. Just pay for the struts. Use a credit card under the sprayer to remove. The problem is usually a kinked hose at the sprayer. Order new and replace.

Had the same problem. It was the pressure valve in the evaporator/heater box under the hood and dashboard. Bring it to your AC person and have it pumped down. If it goes to 0 and stays there, the pressure valve is blocked and needs to be replaced. It takes a lot of time to change it out and costs ~ $70 for a sub. What happens is that when the compressor engages, the freon is prevented from flowing because of that valve/sensor and the suction side goes to 0 (zero) and shuts the compressor off.

Good mechanics at Kuni on Broadway in Littleton. Not cheap but decent.

Start car, adjust seats and mirrors, make sure it is in park and DO NOT TOUCH THE BRAKE. Hold down the SET button and push and hold the 1 or 2 button WHILE holding down the SET button.

I had the same problem. Disconnect the MAF at the sensor and it should go away. If it does, go to ebay and buy the cheapest. You may have to buy a few to get a good one..........

Nice Job. Where did you get the leather done?? How much

To bleed the system, connect a hose to the RED bleeder port on the unit, just ahead of the passenger side firewall. Loosen bleeder screw. Turn the pump on and it'll bleed itself. Tighten bleeder screw. Keep the brake fluid in the reservoir full at all times and wipe up spills immediately as brake fluid will eat your paint.

I had the same problem and traced it to the overflow tube that goes from the gas cap and drains through the fender well. It was plugged and full of gas..... Cheap and effective fix...

Well know problem, replace negative cable from battery, clean the mounting points well and you should be good to go. Thanks again for your kind reply. I will talk to my mechanic about it. Linda Thank you very much for your input. I will try this too this weekend

Did you ever figure out what it was. Have similar problem but doesn't go away. Bucks violently when accelerating hard, but not to the floor.

What is the reason for replacement? Sounds fishy. <_< Just changed mine yesterday. Not too bad. I bought one through a junk yard. $300. I can guide you if you need. Mine began "popping" as I cornered. Went real bad real quick.

You need to remove the spark plug covers, distributor caps and blow them out. Very common problem.

It goes to the ground. It is a drain for the battery box to prevent build up of battery acid, water etc.

The temperature of the condenser (mounted in the heater box) causes moisture to condense on it and run out underneath your car. That is why when you are in Phoenix, very little water, but in Florida, running out constantly.

Sounds like a tensioner (already mentioned). Mine was a Power Steering pump bearing. The colder the louder. Once warm, no problems. Timing belt change::: http://www.lextreme.com/timing.htm

Did you ever figure out why it was accelerating like that???