SKperformance

does anyone read the words search or what this section is?

Get HID's if not them get HIR's if applicable if not then maybe wasting the money on PIAA's are worth it

I agree as it is well know the Y pipe is drastically inefficent. My query to your design is that it moves the axis points further down the exhaust piping which ends it under the body. When the engine rocks forward it will cause 2 axis points which the exhaust will not be able to flex to be compliant to the new forms and angles. As crappy as the OEM pipe is it is designed with purpose. Some of the fabed ones i have seen take the original route but just have consistant lines to the oem with a open pipe without the restrictions. The reason i ask i i was goign to attempt making one a few years ago , but it seemed impossible to make a nice one like the maxima guys who have the room for the needed changes. So where are the turbo's going, under the car?

locked

i am also moving this to the tire section

I have 17 inch snows on my civic, personally width is what matters on a snow tire not sidewallheight. the tires are more expensive and harder to some by for them though. The best match is to get a nice set of 17's with summers if it is your preference and use the stock 16 rims with a 195 with snow tire for added traction in winter

I am very jaded ,it is true. I worked for a dealer in Toronto for a bit and it was amazing at the lack of thoguht that went into so many of the products with year after year coming out with no improvment to the basics of the parts to cause them to always break and be a money pit. Put it this way i used to own a 91 grad prix in the 5 years i had it from new i replaced more parts than i have ever change on my lexus with double the milage. I had an extra alternator and starter on hand as i had to keep replacing the peice of crap. Seized calipers every other year, rusted coolant pipes, broken dash,headgaskets you name it i probably changed.

no problem post up if you need more help

door panels are easy to come off a few threads in it search door panel in the ES section with no date cutoffs

agreed with bossman and VGR what type of bulb do you use in your year LS? I would get a set of HID's ,as it is the best upgrade for the money that actually works,plus you save a bit of gas from the reduced power consumption of them

Here is a tip Your transmission needs heat to work properly. So having it at 150F is good not bad ,over 200 gets a little hairy. My cousin who runs a tranny rebuild shop is against selling me a cooler as it can take a tranny longer to get to temp with it, as well as it is not needed when a car is moving only when their is not enough air flow over the original cooler lines on the tranny will it creep up in temp. I have a transmission temp gauge fitted to my car for my personal interest of it. What i did find is by turning the A/C on when in slow moving hot traffic i drop my temp by 30 degrees by having the fan continously on. This makes a external cooler redundant as it has no extra cooling properties in crawling traffic. If i keep the a/c on before it gets very hot it will keep my temp at 150 instead of creeping to 220 and only will go down to 180 if used after with the a/c. So an easy way to gain extended life from the tranny and fluid is to use the a/c whenever in slow moving traffic to keep temps down. Add an external tranny filter also will be one of the best 2 things that should keep the tranny going for alot longer to tackle the stupid metal mesh that can't filter anything but large particles and then clog.

Basically it is the rubber that sits between the body and the suspension. It gets dirty and cracks and starts to squeek . Never priced them but i would think they are cheap. I would buy them ahead of time and if you do not need them you can always return them. As once the suspension is out you are not going to strip it down again to fix them for that price of labour

the blue lights are garbage,so is the intake For an intake look up BFI, basic modifications to what you have already for maximum output. GPS i would go with a new radio like the pioneer avnc N1 or N2 for lots of options like dvd and a full screen with GPS as well . If your dash is broken then get Jim to fix it. Tires ,their is no balance for all 3 things, For performance it wears faster and costs more for durability it is cheaper ,noisier and has low traction All season well then everything is out the door. Get a set of winters and summers ,their is no comparision to it.

Ask the dealership to replace them as they are driving you crazy from the noise. They probably will help you.

They always have been in trouble. Just everyone else realises how stupid their engineering or lack of is. If they focused on a good product that lasted more than a few years before rusting apart and dieing at the side of the road. They make disposable cars now they have a disposable company.

stop your whining. People have lives . check ebay for cheap prices. You need a whole assembly which is very little in price difference from servicable ones.Besides it is better to have a new assemblyanyway. No urethane bushings , just replace the shock tower bushings and clean all of the mounting surfaces and inspect all rubber parts for wear.

forget all of those search BFI on google it will give you the best and cheapest way to improve the HP and sound

First why is yorus leaking? Is it because a drain line is clogged? Did a previous owner park under a tree with lots of sap ,if so it would have melted down and clogged a drain causing a problem . Until you know why it leaks you can;t place blame on a bad design. If it was all about design on Lexus and them being responsible the you could say every owner who gets in an accident should blame lexus for not building a car to never get in an accident. know what i mean?

which year car? i think the 92 uses a rotor and cap, if so it is probably cracked. You will need to get the engein hot to burn off excessive water. I always keep the engien running when water goes near it.

change the temp sensor as the best start as some have found it to be faulty stick to OEM

try a search

the starter has contacts inside it for high power transmission for starting the ignition switch is where you turn the key

if it si normal speed then i might say it is the key switch ,used to be a common problems with VW when an owner had too many keychains and it wore out the cylinder adn would cut the car out

i still say check the injectors Can't you disconnect just the wire to the injector without massive removal of parts?