xxstewart

I don't even like running chains on my 15 year old Jeep because of the noise and potential damage if a link or tensioning band breaks. I live in the mountains in Colorado, and get by nicely with a good set of all season tires (I'm running Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revos), but would install Bridgestone Blizzaks if I was 4-wheeling in the winter. I have no experience with tire cables -- don't know how well the work or how easy they break -- but they might be better than using chains.

I've notice the same problem on my 2008 GX. Actually, I think the entire design of the climate control system was the work of a moron. Has anyone noticed that in cold weather when you turn on the heater, the ventilation switches to suck in outside air, and in the summer when the vehicle interior is 120F+, it automatically switches to recirculate inside air? The GX is the only vehicle I've ever owned that has to be switched to defrost to get warm air onto the windshield, and when defrost is activated, the A/C kicks on and outside air is sucked in -- makes winter driving a !Removed!. The idea of having half the climate controls on the navigation screen and half on the dash button panel is ridiculous. Having to access the climate screen just to alter the fan speed is annoying. The owner's manual says the climate system can be voice controlled, but when I attempt this, I'm told the function is not available. The rest of the navigation system sucks too. The satellite radio song title truncates at 16 characters. I could write a book about the bugs and design goof-ups. I have the navigation screen set to return to the previous setting, rather than to always start with the map. This works except for after being in reverse gear -- the map always re-appears after backing up. I guess the designers thought if you backed up you missed your turn, and really need the map. I think the navigation/climate/entertainment system was designed by a bunch of software techs in Bangalore who've never driven a car. Better equipment is available standard on KIAs.

Sounds as if an oil change grease monkey was overly aggressive with an impact wrench. The existing bolts are probably 10mm. The nuts on the chassis are press-ins, and probably not easy to replace. You may be able to drill them out to a larger size and re-tap them to an M12, and buy M12 bolts.

Are you able to brake each wheel individually and cut torque to each wheel individually within milliseconds and monitor each wheel's rotation over 100 times a second? If not, then you cannot control a car better than the computer in an emergency. GMan -- No, I can't do any of that. Since buying the GX, I've been practicing covering my eyes, screaming, and hoping that that Bangalore software geek's hex code will save me, just like all the other girly men out there.

Experiences like yours makes it hard to understand why dealer-serviced vehicles are supposed to have better re-sale value. I avoid dealer service departments. A typical dealership generates about 10% of its revenue from service, but about half its profits. In today's depressed auto market, service departments are all that's keeping some dealerships in business, and many are recommending unnecessary service, and then botching it. Interesting that the rear brakes needed replacement before the front ones - usually the front brakes wear faster. Maybe the dealer only had rear brake parts in stock the day of your 60K checkup. Lucky you're capable of doing the job yourself.

I'm probably sending you comments past your deadline, but perhaps you'll write a follow-up article in coming weeks. I have an '08 GX470 - bought it new two years ago. I like everything about it except the navigation system, and the way that the entertainment system and half of the climate control system is integrated into it. The composite system is filled with software bugs, inconsistencies, and non-existent features that are described in the owner's manual. Learning that Lexus has software bugs in its VSC system doesn't come as a surprise, as they weren't even able to design a bug-free navigation system. No doubt the system was developed by a bunch of semi-literate software hacks in Bangalore who submitted the low bid. I can provide more details if you're interested.

I have an 08 GX, but don't drive it aggressively enough to comment on its stability. However, I generally dislike all the ABS, ATC, and VSC systems. I learned to drive during winters in the Great Lakes region, and know how to control a skidding automobile, and how to brake and accelerate on slick surfaces. When these automated systems begin interfering with an experienced driver's normal reflexes, it would seem over compensation could be a problem. Designing an automatic system that compensates for a wide range of simultaneous driver reactions would seem difficult when the computer and driver are both trying to react to each other. Cars are being designed today for unskilled idiots. Does the owner's manual instruct the driver, when having lost control of the vehicle, to release the steering wheel, cover his/her eyes, scream loudly, and wait for the computer to take over?

Can't comment on the AM/FM reception since I never listen to these broadcasts. I have Sirius/XM and CDs, both being commercial free. If you have a satellite antenna, you probably have a satellite receiver, but likely it's deactivated. Subscription is about $150/year, and worth it (I think). Checkout the website at siriusxm for more info. What I don't like about the GX's radio system is that there's no way to shutoff the AM/FM system. When you click through the channels from Sat3 to Sat1 you have to page through the AM and FM pages. Even my 2006 Pathfinder had an option to bypass the AM/FM.

Here's the complete service manual procedure. If the ATF was at the proper check temperature, there shouldn't have been spillage from the overflow tube. Sure was easier when dip sticks were standard equipment. GX470_AutoTrans.pdf

Mcmann -- is your oil consumption normal? I'd take the car to an independent mechanic and get a second opinion. A competent mechanic will be able to determine if the pistons are slapping. Really like the service invoice -- "performing as designed" -- I think that's what Toyoda said about the gas pedals last week. Mann777 -- interesting theory about the cylinder piston baffle -- if it gets damaged, what's it end up hitting that makes a noise?

If you'd like to trade me a brand new Optima redtop (expected life = 4 years) for my 2 year old OEM battery (expected remaining life = 4 years), let me know where and when you want to do the exchange -- I'll buy lunch.

Any idea if your headlights are the original bulbs? Are the low beam and high beams both greenish? I've heard it's recommended to avoid finger contact with the glass on halogen bulbs. Skin oil can leave a residue that will lead to discoloration. Maybe somebody was careless changing out the bulbs.

Great recommendation on the Michelin jumper cables -- I hadn't seen these before. The non-polarized design is a good idea. Amazon has them for $35.

I think they're on a spring-loaded retractable reel under the front bumper on the passenger side. NO WAIT!!! Just kidding -- I don't know of any production vehicle that comes with jumper cables as standard equipment (except for maybe a military issue Humvee). Jumper cables are included in many roadside emergency kits that some dealers offer as accessory items. You can get one from Toyota, but I'm not sure Lexus offers one (I think if you own a Lexus, you're supposed to call the dealer for assistance).

I'd take it to a bump shop for repair. If the window alignment got messed up when the glass broke, getting it re-aligned so the window doesn't bind, and so it opens and closes correctly will likely be difficult. If you don't get it right, you'll be replacing the motor shortly. Hopefully your insurance will cover this.

The factory hitch is a class III rated for 6,000 lbs towing and 600 lbs hitch weight. The suspension should be able to handle the hitch rating (certainly no worse than 3 adults in your back seat, but I wouldn't do the trailer at the same time). You can buy hitch scales for about $100 if you're uncertain about the trailer's weight distribution. Distributing the weight properly is critical (see your trailer owner's manual) -- too little tongue weight is as bad as too much. If your trailer is back-heavy, the hitch can pop off the ball, or the trailer can go into a fishtail and you can flip your car.

Further to your opening thread, if the service manager insists the alternator went bad from "working overtime" then either its brushes or bearings are shot. But likely they were well on their way when your took your GX in for its maintenance. Replacing the battery at that time wouldn't have saved the alternator or kept a new battery from discharging beyond rejuvenation. If you're getting the alternator replaced under warranty, that's not so bad. You were probably due for a new battery anyway if it was the OEM unit. All you should feel bad about is not getting a $200 battery for $200.

I've never bought a certified pre-owned car, but my understanding is you pay a premium for the vehicle knowing the car has been fully checked out by the dealer, and I thought some pre-own certs come with limited warranties. Have you checked your paperwork to see if the dealer has to cover the problem? The dealer can't compel you to use his service department unless there's a warranty that stipulates this.

Factory OEM batteries are usually crap, so getting 4.5 years from a battery probably rated at 36 months isn't so bad. Still, a failing battery shouldn't cause an alternator failure, and an alternator shouldn't just crap out after 35K miles. You should have been experiencing engine starting problems, dim headlights, or some other symptom if the battery was marginal. Alternators have built-in regulator circuits that normally should protect them against damage from a weak battery. Otherwise, jump starting another vehicle would kill your alternator. However, reverse polarizing an alternator can damage it. If someone jump started you and connected the jumper cables backwards, your alternator could be smoke. It's a bit strange you had no problems before the dealer service department did the battery load test. Any chance they might have messed up? (yeah, like they'd admit it). I avoid dealer service departments -- their job is to create business from simple maintenance checks (has anybody ever gotten a "free" oil change from a dealer?). When a repair job is more than I want to tackle, I take my car to an independent repair guy that I know and trust. Ask around and find someone that will do an honest job of checking out your alternator and battery. $200 for a dealer battery probably adds up to a $50 battery and a $150 labor charge. If the new battery is shot, replace it with an Optima -- $200 but worth it. Dealers make half their profit margin in their service departments - the best revenge is to take your car elsewhere.

Here's the service manual content on the front door. I've never disassembled the door, and take no responsibility for any broken parts or fingers. Good luck. GX470_Door.pdf

I agree -- you can't recklessly endanger the lives and property of others chasing the perp without becoming a perp yourself. Lexus should consider wiring the backup camera to a video recorder blackbox (the camera serves no purpose when not backing up) to capture vehicle activity behind. Or, maybe just a bumper sticker that says "Smile -- your license plate and aggressive driving are being captured by my backup camera", or "If you can read this, my backup camera has recorded your license plate" would do the trick. I put a bumper sticker on my Jeep that says "Caution - Idiot Tailgating", and it's had a positive effect getting drivers to keep their distance.

There are so many inter-connected functions in the braking system, the problem could exist in any of several places. I'd check the fuse panel first since fuses are supposed to be the first point of failure. There's probably a fuse that protects the transmission interlock switch, and also one that protects the shift-lock ECU, but since your ABS light is on, check the ABS fuse(s) too. If you find a blown fuse, try replacing it. But if the new one blows, obviously you need to look elsewhere for the problem. Most likely the problem isn't the interlock switch, but something related to the ABS system. The interlock switch state isn't being sensed, hence the interlock solenoid isn't being released. There might be a brake-pad wear sensor that trips the ABS light when your brake pads are getting thin (checked them lately with 140K miles behind you?) Personally, I dislike ABS systems, but because of the way the electrical system is designed, it can't intentionally be disabled without affecting other necessary functions (like getting the car into gear). I tried to disable the ABS on a Pathfinder and most of the dashboard warning lights lit up -- I didn't try finding out which ones were for real. It's easy to understand why it's taken Toyota so long to figure out its accelerator problem -- even the design engineers don't know where to start looking.

Some additional thoughts on this ... Most states have mandatory vehicle accident reporting laws that require drivers to file a report with the state DMV when vehicle damage exceeds some $ amount -- for example, $1,000 -- even when only one vehicle is involved. Insurance companies require a copy of the filed report before paying for repairs. In some states, repair shops may also be required to file reports with DMV on major vehicle repair jobs. (If you buy a used car, you can access DMV records to determine if the car has ever been in a major accident or has ever required major repairs.) Check with your local DMV office and see what they can do for you. Eventually, they may receive a report of a vehicle matching the black Honda with repairs matching the parts you have (don't throw the parts away -- repair shops take photos and keep records, and the parts you have could be evidence). If you can identify the driver, he/she will likely lose his/her license (if he/she wasn't already driving with a revoked license) for leaving the scene and failure to report. If this incident occurred in a commercial district, check with local businesses to see if there were any security cameras there. Some states have traffic/weather monitoring video cameras on major highways, and/or radar operated speed cameras (the driver was probably trying to make a fast getaway).

You didn't say what parts came off the Honda -- are they parts that will have to be replaced in order to pass NJ vehicle inspection, such as bumper, lights, turn signals, etc? If yes, contact the local Honda dealers and body shops that do Honda body work. Give them the details of your mishap, and the list of parts you collected from the crash site. If/when they provide somebody a repair estimate (insurance companies sometimes require multiple estimates) matching the parts, find out who the owner is, or have the state police intervene and track it down. Sounds like the idiot was probably DUI and should lose his/her license for that as well as the hit-and-run, but you'll be lucky just to compensated for the damage to your vehicle.

Since buying my GX, I've changed the oil and filter about 6 times. Each time, I've tried a different type of filter wrench - cap wrench, strap wrench, band wrench, etc. -- none of them work well With the filter located right above the transverse torsion bar, access is nearly impossible. This last time I used a slip-joint pliars type wrench like the one available from Harbor Freight Tools (P/N 36778) that sells for about $7. This wrench is able to grip the filter tight enough and turn it about 1/12 turn, and about 4-5 cranks is enough to loosen it so you can spin it off by hand. I usually buy replacement filters that have the non-slip coating on top (Fram among others feature this). The non-slip coating allows the filter to be hand-tightened sufficiently so that no wrench is needed for installation. Also, removing the counter-balance weight (2 bolts) that's beneath the filter during replacement provides a bit more clearance. In the automobile section of the nearby Walmart, I found a large metal tray (about 2' x 4') for about $10. Keeps the garage floor clean, and oil spilled on it wipes up with a few paper towels.