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xxstewart

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Everything posted by xxstewart

  1. I'm reminded of a personal story from back in the '70's during the oil embargo when gasoline prices shot up to (sit down for this) 50 cents a gallon! A co-worker decided he wasn't going to enrich the oil companies, so he traded in his Buick Riviera for a Datsun 310. He was taunted by everyone in the office for doing this (it was just un-American), but he boasted about the great gas mileage he would be getting. So a bunch of us pooled some cash and filled up a 5 gallon gas can every couple days and dumped it in his Datsun during lunch. This guy began bragging endlessly about how his Datsun was getting over a hundred miles per gallon, and how smart he was buying it. The fun started when we stopped adding gas to his tank. He kept taking the car back to the dealer complaining about how the MPG suddenly plummeted to only 31 from over 100. The dealer thought he was nuts.
  2. Most any performance tire dealer can tell you if the tires will fit. If you need spacers, try Spidertrax (www.spidertrax.com).
  3. Dubai -- I think I read an article a couple years ago about people there spending 7 figure money to acquire coveted vanity license plates.
  4. I did a +1 rim upgrade on a BMW several years ago, and the change in the ride and handling with a shorter sidewall tire was very pronounced. More agressive cornering, but a very bumpy ride, and substantially less tire life. Since I can't see how cool I look when I'm driving my GX, paying $5K for custom oversize chrome wheels and low profile tires for others to stare at seems stupid. Call me Mr. Boring OEM.
  5. If you're committed to two sets of tires for seasonal driving, you definitely want two sets of wheels and avoid changing tires on one set of rims. I used to have two sets of wheels, but now use a single year-round tire. You should be able to find an acceptable all-season tire for your RX. I'd look into Michelin LTXs and Cross-Terrains. In any case, $2700 for a set of wheels is way to spendy.
  6. My 2008 GX came with Bridgestone HTs, which provided a smooth quiet ride, but proved worthless in an inch of Colorado snow. I replaced them with Bridgestone Revos - slightly noisier, but they ride smooth, and after 40K miles, still have about 40% of the tread left. The Revos have been an excellent year-round tire in snow, rain, dry pavement, and gravel. Other forum members recommend Michelin Cross Terrains and LTX tires. I have no personal experience with these, but may go with one of these Michelins since my tire guy no longer carries Bridgestone. I've had several SUVs, and have always installed LT grade tires instead of passenger grade, and have always opted for premium tires, despite the higher cost. The Michelins will set you back about $1,000, but you'll be more satisfied with them than with low grade tires costing $600.
  7. My 2008 GX behaves similarly when driving hills with the cruise control on. The system is designed to maintain constant MPH, so the transmission down-shifts and the RPMs run up. Using cruise control in hilly terrains and/or heavy traffic is not recommended anyway, so this doesn't concern me much. Most of the time, other traffic maintains such variable speed that trying to drive at a constant speed is more trouble than it's worth. Regarding brakes, did the dealer check the fluid level? Sounds as if there could be air in the lines. Take the vehicle to a brake specialist and have them bleed the system.
  8. There's got to be an input on the remote start module connected to a door switch that senses when the door's been opened. Maybe you can find someone with a shop manual and wiring diagram, find the switch, and bypass it so the remote start can't tell if the door is open or closed. I don't know if this option is being sold in Colorado. In Denver, it's illegal to leave your car warming up in your driveway unattended, precisely due to auto theft. Cops have better things to do than retrieve cars for persons that leave invitations to thieves. Here in Colorado, I'm usually brushing piles of snow off the car while it's warming up, so remote starting isn't high in my priority list of must haves.
  9. I bought my 2008 GX after having owned a '99 Pathfinder and being really disappointed with the new Pathfinder design (the 2013 version looks interesting however). My experiences have been mostly positive -- no repairs necessary in nearly 5 years and 45K miles. I think, however, the navigation system/audio system/climate control system concept is a disaster, with some of the controls appearing on the touch screen and others as buttons beneath the screen. I bought the GX instead of competitive luxury SUV's as the GX is based on the 4-Runner platform, which has a long history, and should be relatively free of problems. Obviously, this doesn't apply to systems incremental to the GX. A four year life for a factory grade battery isn't unusual I think - especially if you live in a climate extreme (Minnesota or Arizona), as temperature takes a toll on batteries. The Mopar battery that came in my '95 Wrangler lasted 3 years. I replaced it with an Optima redtop, and I finally had to replace it last month after 14 years. I don't use my GX's moon-roof much at all, so if/when it fails it will likely be lack of use. The driveshaft and transfer case problems are interesting - maybe related to the infamous "clunk" issue(?). Mostly, I like the suspensioon and ride on my GX, even after I installed tires with more agressive treads than the factory tires (which were worthless in snow). The Bridgestones I installed have 38K on them and still have 1/2 the tread left, which I attribute to the refined suspension and alignment. But with 5 years on the GX, I'm thinking of trading it next spring for either another GX or LX. I keep looking at the competition, but can't get enthused about any of them.
  10. Here are wiring diagrams for the height control system. I'd check all the fuses to start with, and if you have a voltmeter, check for voltages at all the critical locations. Hopefully the suspension ECU blackbox isn't the problem. GX470SuspensionWiring.pdf
  11. The cup holder pops out if you pull up on it. Open the lid, grab it with both hands, rock it gently, and pull upward. However, denslexusGX470 is right about the center console compartment. If something slid down the door opening of it, there's a post elsewhere on the forum regarding removal of the entire center console assembly.
  12. ??? RX450 ??? Do you mean "LX450" or "RX350"??? In either case, probably not, although a Toyota 4-Runner hitch probably will.
  13. I'm not sure what the meaning of this error is, but it might be an indication that the Lexus Link battery needs replacement. If you don't use this system, you could try popping out the fuse (it might be labeled "Mayday System"). I think the Lexus Link system is also tied into the door lock system, so disabling the first might lead to yet another error indication. The wiring diagram attached might help. Lexus Link.pdf
  14. Check ebay - you might be able to find an uncut key with remote for less than $100. There are many sources online such as https://www.ikeyless.com/vehicles/Lexus/GX+470/2005/1000451/ Check with a local locksmith about programming the remote and the transponder -- likely one of them will do it for half what the dealer quoted you. You might find programming instructions for the remote online, but the transponder will require a locksmith or dealer. Don't lose what's left of your key. If you bought the GX from a Lexus dealer, you should have demanded extra keys. A new GX comes with 2 ignition keys, 1 valet key, a transponderless key blank, and a transponder card. Did you get anything other than just 1 key?
  15. Removing the entire headlamp assembly sounds like no fun at all (see attached). Find someone with a small and nimble hand. Lexus_Headlamp.pdf
  16. You could try one of those products sold for headlight lens restoration (available at most auto stores). I've never tried any of these, and if you decide to, start with a small area on one of the surfaces that is least noticeable.
  17. I would start with Crutchfield (http://www.crutchfield.com/p_541ISTY11/Peripheral-iSimple-Satellite-Radio-Adapter-for-Toyota.html?tp=87). They have knowledgable techs who can answer your questions about installation and compatibility with factory installed audio systems. They're also quite a bit cheaper than buying a unit from a dealer.
  18. I would start with Crutchfield (http://www.crutchfield.com/p_541ISTY11/Peripheral-iSimple-Satellite-Radio-Adapter-for-Toyota.html?tp=87). They have knowledgable techs who can answer your questions about installation and compatibility with factory installed audio systems. They're also quite a bit cheaper than buying a unit from a dealer.
  19. Sounds as if you have the wrong hitch -- is the hitch from Lexus or an afermarket item? With a hole offset of only 1/2" - 3/4", adding another hole to the frame is likely to be too close to an existing hole.
  20. A final comment -- be sure the grade 8 nut is a standard one, not one that is clinched to be self locking. Although a locking nut would be preferred in this application, installation will be nearly impossible because there's no way to grip the bolt. Your best best is to use a lock washer and a bit of Lock-Tite thread adhesive. This will keep the bolt secure. It's still a good idea to check the bolts once a year.
  21. Here's another idea. There appears to be a hole on the frame channel side above the two hitch mounting holes. If you can open up the diameter of this hole large enough for a 12mm bolt head to fit through, you can fish a bolt down through the mounting hole.. The bolt threads will extend through the mounting hole, and you can use a nut on the outside. Fishing the bolt through the hole isn't that difficult. Get some fine gauge steel wire and feed it through the top hole and then through the bottom hole. Place a star washer on the bolt to help keep it from spinning. Then tightly wrap the wire around the bolt threads. You should be able to pull on the wire and the bolt will go through the upper hole and come down through the mounting hole. Put a small o-ring around the bolt so it doesn't accidentally pop back into the frame channel before you get the nut on it. Make sure the bolt is a grade 8 so you don't have to do this again. You might want to try fishing the broken nut out with a small magnet attached to the wire so it doesn't rattle.
  22. I think your best option is to try using the original nut. Try to center it over the hole using a fish wire through the other hole. If you can capture a 1/4 turn of threads, you should be able to pull down on the bolt and the nut will seat in the broken weld nibs. You might be able to catch it with bent metal rod through the adjacent hole and keep it from spinning. As long as you keep some pull tension on the bolt, the nut should stay in place while you turn the bolt. Use a wire brush and some WD40 to clean up the bolt threads so it will spin into the nut easily. The J-bolt is a specialty snowplow bolt Meyer P/N 14595 available from www.storkauto.com for $21 (not cheap!). It's a grade 8 3/4" SAE thread, so you'll need a matchin grade 8 nut to go with it. The hole will need to be opened up in an elongated manner, rather than just drilling a large diameter hole. The j-bolt will take much more installation effort than the original nut. Be patient and nimble. Once it's done, you won't need to worry about messing with it again.
  23. This type of blind fastener will hold the bolt in place in this application, but it is not designed for installation in thin wall steel. It's meant for installation in a blind hole -- that is, a hole in a solid material that has no opening at the bottom. This type of fastener works by expansion. The bolt expands the fastener's outside diameter, and in a blind hole causes it to grip the inside hole surface. In a thin wall installation, it will be difficult to prevent the fastener from spinning while the bolt is being turned. Also, bumper hitch bolts and nuts should be grade 8. Since this blind fastener is designed to expand, it is purposefully made from a soft grade steel. I think using this fastener is almost as effective as leaving the bolt uninstalled. A self-tapping bolt installed in thin wall steel will be similarly ineffective. I'd spend a bit more time and ensure the bolt and original nut are used. If this turns out to be impossible, you could try using a snowplow frame mount j-bolt, but you'll have to open up the hole diameter to install it.
  24. Is it blinking or is the illumination brightness fluttering?
  25. My 2008 GX tows my 6x12 covered cargo trailer (GVW ~ 3000 lbs max) one or twice a year without any problems, but I keep my speed under 55 MPH for fuel efficiency and safety reasons. Regardless of your skill and experience towing a trailer, remember the highways are filled with idiots who can force you into an evasive maneuver, and such can be difficult with a trailer in tow. One advantage to 55 MPH is that everyone else passes me, allowing me to ensure several hundred yards exist between me and vehicle in front of me. (Somehow I manage to suppress my ego and allow lesser marques to pass my Lexus.) With a leased vehicle, I'd read the lease contract thoroughly to ensure towing is permitted or if there's a weight limit specified. If you get into an accident (regardless of fault) with a leased vehicle while violating a lease agreement on towing, you could find yourself in a financial jam with your nsurance company, or a legal one with the leasing company. Tow ratings aren't stupid, and begin with the classification of the hitch. A Class III hitch is rated at 5,000 lbs, and installed on a vehicle rated for 6500 lbs doesn't change this. You also need to watch the tongue weight (usually not a problem with RV trailers unless stuffed with personal items, but is affected by the manner in which a cargo trailer's contents weight is distributed). Bottom line: Don't get cocky or cavalier about towing a trailer.
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