steviej

If you are set on the Sylvania (price is good deal) then go for the Silverstars or the Ultra. They are brighter than the Xtravisions. Look at this chart: here. steviej

unfortunately my kayak doesn't fit inside the car.

I concur. PIAA bulbs are by far extremely bright for non-HID bulbs, but they are pricey (~$100/pr). For best output get the Xtreme White bulbs. Sylvania Silverstars are great for the price. However, they just came out with ULTRA Silverstars (~$50/pr) that are supposed to give a better illumination pattern at night. I think the GE Nighthawk and Philips Vision Plus are along the same lines. What bulb configuration are you in need of? I have two Silverstars (9005) that are sitting in the garge and are not that old (I think they have about 9 months on them before I went with PIAAs). steviej

I have a Yakima rack system that works very well. I can post a pic if you would like. That system as well as Thule should be able to handle your needs as it definately handles 2 17' kayaks for me. steviej

gee Mike, you really think so? :P relax, just playin' with ya, I was getting to it. asad, when can I bring my ES over to your detailing shop to be done? steviej

He called it an IS330 because he made a typo: He has an 02 IS300. This naming is true of the Toyota/Lexus system, but please note, there was never an IS330 with a 3.3L engine. The progression was IS300, then came the IS250/IS350. Only the ES and RX had a 330 model with a 3.3L engine. steviej

I would assume there are two: 1 on the bottom of the radiator and 1 in the engine block. steviej

ahh, ok. I was assuming he was discussing his 02 IS300 one of my first thoughts, too. If true, then that would be too ironic that the annual billing date would be the same as his incident. steviej

If I remember correctly (been 2 months since I did mine) there is one bolt on the rear caliper. The other is a post. Remove the bolt, pivot the caliper up and then it slides off the post. steviej

it's like a dog with a bone. . . . . . . . . .just won't let go.

mind you, SW, that is 4 years from the first registration of the car, so if it were registered 2/1/02, then you are only covered until 2/1/06. RX330, However, the statement only said "Lexus" and the associated charge. Have you inquired of credit card company the specific details of the "Lexus" charge. A simple phone call will provide you with details. steviej

so let me get this right, if you are done with the car and press the Engine Stop button, components of the car can still be on? I don't know if I like this system. steviej

I had Bank 1 Sensor 1 go at 42k miles and Bank 2 Sensor 1 go at 60k miles, so the 100k mile rule for AF sensors doesn't always apply. either way, get the codes pulled again at Autozone for free. They should still be in the ECU memory. steviej

which assesories do you leave on or remain on after the car is shut off? steviej

What were the codes that your mechanic pulled and cleared? There are hundreds of codes that will trigger the CEL/TRAC OFF light combination. If it is in fact due to the charcol cannister: do a search on this board and CL. There is a warranty that covers the charcol cannister that Toyota does not like to tell customers about. The link to the government instructed recall has been posted several times. steviej nevermind. I did the search for you. Read this thread, there is a link in one of the threads to the EPA website. Print the information and bring it to the Lexus dealership if it applys to you car. Extended Emission Thread Link steviej

changing a PCV valve every 15k???? that is super over kill. I suggest, as it was suggested to me by several professionals, every four years or 60k miles. Lacebug, yes the 2000 ES has a PCV valve. Its a <$10 part in the US and takes less than 20 mintues to replace provided the old one comes out easily. steviej

If the state police were to throw "stop-sticks" in my way, I want those on my car. :P steviej

My 02 ES usually has between 1.5 and 2 gallons of gas when I the idiot light comes on. It is designed to do that. Another reason for the "reserve" is to protect the fuel pump. The gasoline in the tank acts as a cooling medium for the pump. A good rule of thumb is to never let the car go below 1/4 of a tank. steviej

no it is not normal. steviej

I went with the V's. The price difference at my tire guy was not as dramatic as seen in the consumer report so I opted for the V's. steviej

-The one in the front is Bank 2 and the one in the rear is Bank 1. Before the cat is Sensor 1, after the cat is Sensor 2. -$226 was for one and only one sensor. -You can drive as long as you want, but expect poor gas mileage and a heavy repair bill when the catalytic converter gets overheated due to too much fuel in the mix. I wouldn't let it go too long, a week tops. I know some people that have had it on for months, but that is them. steviej

The Lexus Factory Shop Manual. steviej

find out which sensor he replaced. I am guessing he didn't replace Bank 2 Sensor 2. He had 4 to choose from. Sensor 2 is always the one AFTER the cat. Make sure the new one is connected properly. steviej

I have had these in grey for the last four winters. Very durable, washable and they will contain lots of water (melted snow). steviej

P1135 is the AF Sensor at Bank 1 Sensor 1. It is doable but the hardest to reach of the 4 and you will need an O2 socket so you don't mash the new wire. B1S1 is between the manifold and the cat on the bank of cylinders closest to the firewall. When the engine is cold, a few applications of Liquid Wrench on the old AF sensor will help ease it out. I would stick with Toyota/Lexus OEM as they are about the same price. I recently paid $226 from a Toyota dealership. This way you know the connectors and the length of the wire will be correct. steviej PS: P1135 will set off the CEL and TRAC OFF lights. It has nothing to do with the TRAC system other than it is shut down while the car is in safety mode.