steviej

actually, it does not have to be removed. Maybe just the strut bar and with a few extensions and a knuckle (flexible socket joints) it can be done. There was a post a couple years back that gave a nice step by step. steviej

do 2 searches: 1 on "dogbone" and 1 on "motor mounts" there are plenty of threads with pictures. steviej

yep, best to use new/clean DOT3 and not from a bottle that has been open for sometime. steviej

Rather than ship to you, what would be the cost if you had them shipped to and balanced/mounted by one of their appointed shops in your area? TireRack's best deals or cost savings are achieved when you get a set of tires and wheels so they come to you balanced. You just bolt them on. No middle man. I found the same scenario when I got my Exaltos. I went with my dealer. steviej

$29.12 at www.lexus-parts.com click here. steviej

if you never remove the disc, are you not at least covered for the term of your basic warranty? steviej

1. probably not. 2. the lights come on when the signal from the AF sensor, in this case bank 2 sensor 1, to the ECU is outside of acceptable limits. It may not always send the same signal. If the sensor were faulty, then yes, I would expect the lights to constantly be lit. However, the sensor may not be faulty, but what we call, lazy. It all comes down to what the sensor interprets and the signal that is created. 3. it can create a situation where there is unburned fuel in the mix. The signal calls for more fuel to be added. More unburned fuel can pass through the cylinder and into the exhaust. Once in the extreme heat of the catalytic converter it is burned there instead. This will lead to a premature death of the cat. This piece of equipment is much more expensive than a sensor. 4. get it fixed since you have been experiencing this for 10 months. Bank 2 sensor 1 is the easiest to get at. You can actually see it when standing in front of the car. It is in the exhaust between the manifold and the cat. Look between the radiator and the front of the engine, looks like a spark plug with a wire coming out of the back. Follow the wire back to its connector and unclip it carefully. Apply a little liquid wrench to the threads and wait. Apply some more and wait. Allow the liquid wrench to seap in. Use an O2 socket to get the old one out and to insert the new one. AF or O2 sensors can be had on the interent for less money than at the stealership. (try www.sparkplugs.com or www.oxygensensors.com), Expect to pay about $200 for a Denso sensor. steviej Good luck. steviej

not typically, but since the 3.5L is totally new for Lexus, I am sure it is still a wait and see game to find out what parts must be mass stored. steviej

a picture would help if possible. steviej

I looked back at my receipts, the PDRs done were all by DentWizard. They were subcontracted through my bodyshop, so not work was seen be me until the body shop was satisfied. If they had rejected any work, or may then "do better" I didn't know about it. I can say the final result each time was flawless. steviej

hello steviej, i apologize for the attitude but im curious as to why you did not advise lexus8 to drop the attitude in which he responded to my question in the first place. because when I read lexusk8's post, the tone I get is that of a helpful hint, not attitude. Since lexusk8 is a well respected moderator on ClubLexus, I know for a fact that he would not treat a newbie with attitude. steviej

agreed, I have had to utilize this type of service twice. I went with the guys that my body shop outsources to. Each time the results were flawless and not that expensive. steviej

it would have helped out alot if you would heave paid attention to the topic title and description firer, Please drop the attitude towards lexusk8. In all actuality, you posted your question three separate times. The thread that lexusk8 responded to did not state the year of the car in the title. I merged the three threads and the earliest thread assumed the title position. In the future, please post once and wait for a response. Create multiple threads on the same question only creates confusion and clutter. Good luck with your bulbs. steviej, LOC Management.

There is no 2006 ES350. It is either a 2007 ES350 or a 2006 ES330. Please specify. steviej PS. once answered, I will move this thread to the correct subforum.

I would assume so, but I haven't looked under the hood of an 05/06. steviej

almost any online bulb place has the Ion Crystal in H3 for ~$30 each. here, ~$19 for one, $37 for the pair. PIAA Ion Crystals. I would assume that the 9006 bulb configuration will be a little more, ~$30-$40 based on the price of the Xtreme White 9006. steviej

I opted for the PIAA Ion Crystals. ($30 each). click here steviej

I obtained this with PIAA Ion Crystal bulbs. The ES uses and H3 bulb, so I would assume that the 9006 bulb on the IS would be more pronounced. PIAA Ion Crystals steviej

Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3. nuff said. steviej

check your dipstick again. maybe you needed more than 2 quarts. Since synthetic flows more freely than conventional, I would expect just the opposite. I would expect the synthetic to make it back to the pan quicker. steviej

turn the key to on without starting the car. All trouble lights should come on. When the car is running , you could go take you gas cap off or disconnect a sensor to see if you can trip the CEL. Sounds like your car is in need of a thorough tune up. When was the last time you changed: air filter, fuel filter, PCV valve, plugs, plug wires if necessary, cleaned the IACV, cleaned the throttle body, oil and filter? steviej

which oil light? The little oil can with drips coming out the spout or the oil can with wavy lines underneath it? I question your mechanics reasoning on this one. Oil is not magnetized. steviej

yes. best if you have a long arm and the engine is cold. Put some liquid wrench on the base and threads of the A/F sensor before attempting to remove... it helps. According to the FSM, P0171 is obtained when air fuel ratio feedback is stable after warming up engine, fuel trim is considerabley in error on RICH side (2 trop detection logic) Trouble Areas: - Air Intake hose(hose loose or cracked) - Fuel line pressure - Injector blockage (cylinders 1, 3 or 5) - Open or shor in A/F sensor circuit - Intake air flow meter - EFI engine coolant temperature sensor - Gas leakage on exhaust system - PCV hose connection There is a hole diagnostic flow chart to help determine the exact trouble point. steviej

I concur, tis the safest method. steviej

The sensor he pointed to in the front of the vehicle is Bank 2. Bank 1 is the rear bank, next to the firewall. Keep in mind to that air fuel sensors (A/F) are between the exhuast manifold and the catalytic converter. O2 sensors are the ones after the cat and are usually accessable from under the vehicle. steviej