TurboGS300

How much are you asking? <_<

You know, I've asked myself the same thing B) If you replaced fenders forward It might work. I'm sure you'd have to weld some mounts in. I'd measure everything first.

That's why I mentioned both, smart guy <_< Only if you drop the pic of the ugly girl next to the OVERPRICED car. I find it SEXIST AND TASTELESS

He didn't specify which tensioner was squealing

Kewl, sounds like you got lucky and yes I would believe rust would take that long to oxidize to this point. <_<

ColinBarber, I would like to do the same on my 93 GS300. I noticed this is for a 2001 model. Is it roughly the same procedure for my older model? If not, can you attach a pdf file for my year? Any help is appreciated. Thanks. ← Yes, all the 2jz are roughly the same <_<

Search as this has been covered before <_<

It could be the timing belt tensioner or the engine belt tensioner. If you replace the timing belt tensioner replace timing belt and water pump if you haven't already done so. <_<

Very Kewl! It's about time <_<

Dry fill means just that, to fill the transmission from empty to full is about 10 quarts. The trans shop disconnects the hoses at the trans cooler and they hook up the power flusher and I believe it sucks out the old and injects the new <_<

You have all the info, so it don't get any easier, you'll just need to verify the back/orange with a DMM to make sure it's 12volts. You could use a relay if it doesn't have enough juice to turn on both amps. Other than that you have to decide if you want to use the woofer output at the amp you'll need a good quality line out converter, it may distort quicker, but will allow sub control at the deck if you have this option. Or if you want to go to the back of the deck and grab a preamp signal which will probably be cleaner, but you'll lose the sube control and may or may not need a line out converter. An audiolink Line out are about the best I've seen <_<

Good choice, sounds like you already did your research. For the price you're willing to spend it will take awhile alot of looking to find something I would consider a "solid car", however, your expectations may not be the same as mine. At that price it's going to have some mileage and alot may or may not need to be done, depending on what the previous owner had done. Yes, parts are more expensive if not the same. However, there are some pretty cheap places, compared to the dealer, to get genuine parts on the net Keep us in the loop if you find something and we'll help you out and let you know if it's a good deal. <_<

Speedy dynamic <_< These should be fine as well, I used them on my nissan 300zx Rotors You'll need new pads as well.

If you want to do the AMSOIL you'll have to take it to a reputable shop and have them powerflush the transmission. Get at least 10 to 11 quarts. <_<

Yes + shipping of $19, Yes and NO, they will rust on the bare metal surfaces created by the brake pads wear on the rotor. The center or hub is coated and won't rust. You can stop rusting by driving then car and using the brakes. Check EBay for drilled and slotted rotors for GS300, that's where I got mine. <_<

a 98 should have a liftime warranty (or at least a good length one, 10 years or so) against corrosion...take it to your dealer... ← looking in my warranty book, it lists corrosion/perforation as six years, unlimited mileage. Original purchase date was May 1998, so the six years expired in May 2004. Do you think I have a case? Any other help or info? Thanx ← No, if the warranty clearly states 5 years then you're screwed, unless you can prove it started within the 5 years. Have you got any quotes on repair? <_<

Not true. you can use a switch somewhere up front or you can use a DMM to find the remote wire at the sub amp. Don't know the color code. <_<

The key to a good paint job is preparation and more preparation. Unbolt the calipers. Clean the calipers with wheel cleaner or brake cleaber till they're pretty clean , then go over with a wire brush , avoiding any rubber parts. Wipe down with mineral spirits until clean. Use a high temperature paint, such as engine paint or purchase caliper paint. Paint with many light coats letting each coat dry ontil you get the look you want. Mask off with newspaper all area around where you're painting to avoid overspray. After you're donr you can go over with a clear coat and maybe purchase some good quality caliper decals off EBay that say LEXUS to further increase the kewlness factor. Install your new driled/slotted Rotors that you also purchased off EBay for $139 + shipping. Repeat 3 more times and you're done. Here's what I did on my Z and GS B)

As I told you earlier, I used amsoil in the transmission when I did just a pan change. I then took it and had it powerflushed with Toyota fluid. So that's what I'm running now. I used amsoil exclusively in the diff and for power steering. Can't say I notice any difference. The biggest difference would be just from changing the fluids. I would stick with the amsoil for the diff and the power steering, because you'll probably only change them once. I'd stick with the toyota fluid for the transmission, as you'll waste alot of amsoil flushing it. I seriously doubt you'd notice a difference, if you do it's in your mind. <_< if you do the AMSOIL you'll need about 10 quarts, I believe B)

**I had to jumpin since I could not take it anymore. :D Well first off I agree with part of this. I also do not care what Amsoil states AND I could care less what the API says. I do however care that the oil passes and conforms to their proper API specifications, other manufacture spec’s and some mil spec’s. All that the API “start” or spec’s mean is that “some” oil meets the minimum specification for the certification. It does not state if it passed with 2% or 200% over. If the 4-ball test is obsolete why do 99% of the oils out there use the test? So lets take that away and look at some hard numbers. Is Mobil a good PAO oil? Sure. But on the flip side they do not like you, the user, extending your oil drains (like they used to). Amsoil, based on some test results (from users) had higher ZDDP levels; which I personally like. Amsoil's ASL series is calcium and magnesium detergent based while Mobil is using a primarily calcium based detergent system..for what is worth. There R&D could be top of the line but their price and extended drains keep it on the shelf for me. If their price was within some small delta of Amsoil’s and they PROMOTED longer drains, like they have in the past, I would buy it. Oh, I work for UTC and know many engineers at Pratt since I go there once per week. Are you sure it is Mobil in P&W engines? Here is Amsoil XL-7500, 5w-30/Mobil 1, 5w-30 "supersyn" Vis @ 100C, 10.3 Cst/10.1 Cst VI,196/169 Noack Volatility, 8.8%/9.2% Pour Point, -60F/-54F HT/HS viscosity, 3.1 Cp/3.1 Cp Four Ball Wear Scar,.38 mm/.60 mm TBN,10.1/ ? – anyone? If you are doing short drains mobil and Amsoil will be close. If going longer, which Amsoil states you can, I think the higher ZDDP will show the winner. So Mobil is placed inline with Amsoil 7500 since there service life is also the same. Ok here is a non-used oil sample of Mobil 1 5W-40 Truck & SUV. See anything low here? hmmm ....I see a few that I would not want to use on extended oil drains. Iron 2 Chromium 0 Lead 0 Copper 0 Tin 0 Aluminum 1 Nickel 0 Silver 0 Silicon 4 Boron 39 Sodium 0 Magnesium 458 Calcium 2023 Barium 0 Phosphorus 994 Zinc 1352 Molybdenum 0 Titanium 0 Vanadium 0 Potassium 0 Fuel <1 Water 0 Glycol NEG Nitration 10 Oxidation 15 Visc100 14.6 TBN 11.2 Here is a another sample comparison AMSOIL 5W-30 vs. Mobil SuperSyn 5W-30: NOACK Volatility: AMSOIL: 4.90%, SuperSyn: 9.17% Flash Point: AMSOIL: 446 deg. F., SuperSyn: 435 deg. F. Fire Point: AMSOIL: 471 deg. F., SuperSyn: 455 deg. F. Pour Point: AMSOIL: - 60 deg. F, SuperSyn: -54 deg. F 4-Ball Wear Test: AMSOIL 0.374 mm, SuperSyn: 0.667 mm TBN (Total Base No.): AMSOIL 12.35, SuperSyn 8.45 Virgin sample of Mobil 1 SuperSyn 5w-30. See anything that stands out? It does have Moly though…shocking. Tin 0 Lead 0 Copper 0 Aluminum 0 Silicon 3 Iron 2 Chromium 0.1 Silver 0 Zinc 1000 Magnesium 20 Nickel 0 Barium 0 Sodium 7 Calcium 3000 Vanadium 0 Phosphorus 902 Molybdenum 82 Boron 187 Manganese 0 PHYSICAL PROPERTIES Viscosity 10.54 Acid No. 2.78 Amsoil 5w-30's and even their 10-40 have over 1270ppm of ZINC, 1150ppm Phosphorus and even calcium at 4342 ppm. I am not saying Mobil is bad but I have never ever seen Mobil at this level. Based on the Mobil's numbers I have supplied my Amsoil (ASL) oil has over 12K miles on it and had better ZDDP and very low wear. ← Good points, however, I've read from oil analysis reports that amsoil if not changed regularily will thicken, mobil 1 will stay the same weight, any input on this? <_<

Try Ebay, I see the GS300 master switches on there frequently. <_<

So did you just manuever the motor until you could get it out of the inner door or did you actually have to take the inner door off? ← You never have to remove the inner door <_< It can always be manuevered out. At least our cars use bolts, alot of the older american cars the motors were rivited in,not a huge deal, however alot more annoying.

Yes, it shouldn't be to bad. Remove door panel , be very careful you don't break clips or handle surround. Unbolt motor, detach regulator! Install should be the reverse. <_<

Ya wanna know what UPS, Coca cola, and Fedex use for their oill? Well, here ya go, lets see you put that in your car <_< http://www.deq.state.mi.us/documents/deq-e...pp-rerefoil.pdf ← That link didn't open for me, but it sounds like UPS, Coca cola, and Fedex use re-refined oil which just proves my point they don't use any specialty lubeshark products because their fleet mechanics know engine wear is almost undetectable if any ordinary API SL motor oil is used and filters, engine tune ups and cooling system service is performed on time And re-refined oil meets API SL specs. ← I agree with you here, so now it all boils down to which oil is the best for the money spent. Which is precisely what so many of the test on bobistheoilguy.com seem to be doing. I don't agree on spending $7 a quart for oil or adding mystery garbage like slick 50 or lucas. So why should I spend more for an oil by TOYOTA, when mobil 1 is better and cheaper? I think that the key to long engine life is frequent oil changes and a good filter. Which is what I said in the begining. However, we were talking about the benefits of DOT 5.1 and why it's a better idea to use it than DOT 3. <_<

Do you think big companies with monumental sized fleets of vehicles like FedEx, UPS, etc. rely on amateurish "oil test" websites to make their oil and filter decisions? Do you think they use the specialty products they hustle over at that LubeGuy website like "Lube Control" "Fuel Power" "Auto-Rx" "RedLine Water Wetter" etc? Do you think they install "oil filter bypass systems"? Do you think they use synethic DOT 5.1 brake fluid? Do you ever wonder to yourself: "If all these special lube /filter / additive type products are so good, then why are the lube salesmen who peddle them tarketing individual car owners like me? Why don't they try and sell huge industrial accounts like FedEx where they could make alot more money by teaching these companies how to reduce their fleet operating expenses with specialty lube / filters / additive type products? ← Ya wanna know what UPS, Coca cola, and Fedex use for their oil? Well, here ya go, lets see you put that in your car <_< http://www.deq.state.mi.us/documents/deq-e...pp-rerefoil.pdf