TurboGS300

GO for it! B)

Yes, Although you owe me lunch B) I don't know the part# if you want OEM look it up on www.toyotaandlexusparts.com 1) Disconnect battery 2) Crawl under drivers side rear door area 3) Look up near the lip under the cat 4) You'll see the cylinder shaped metal fuel filter 5) You'll have to work quickly so you don't lose alot of gas 6) Place pan a container under are to catch gas leaking 7) DO NOT SMOKE OR ALLOW FLAMES IN THE AREA <_< 8) Using 2 wrenches unscrew both nuts holding fuel line to filter. 9) have new filter ready and threads wrapped with teflon tape 10) Careful not to strip threads, hand start 11) Tighten both nuts till no fuel leaks 12) clean filter exterior and make sure there is no leaking fuel Remove gas that leaked and dispose of 13) hook up battery 14) start car 15) Check periodically to make sure no fuel is leaking. B)

Remember, the ECU will remember previous keys programmed to the system. Much like the ford transponder systems. This will allow previous keys programmed to the system to ACT as the MASTER key would. However, the system will not allow any NEW keys to be programmed to start the car unless you have the Master key. Now do you understand? <_<

I though you already did fronts? It's the same way! 1) Loosen lug nuts 2) Jack up car 3) remove wheer 4) Remove 2 bolts holding caliper on 5) remove rotor. it will be tight 6) use 2x4 with hammer to free or loosen rotor by banging it from the backside( ok you pervs, get over it) if it will not remove easily. 7) clean calipers 8) paint calipers 9) install new pads A) use anti squeak gel 10) reassemble 11) pay me $50 B)

Uhm not the tool, the ECU of the car. You still don't understand, do you. The CAR will NOT allow ANY FURTHER new keys to be programmed to start it IF it doesn't see the MASTER key first. <_<

Great Man, thanks for the consideration B)

iF That's true, and there's no switch to turn it off. You could always unplug the motor for the telescopic wheel. <_<

Right, however, as stated above you must have the master key for the replacement key to start the car. <_<

My race concepts were BREMBO's <_<

Unless the stealer is not doing something right. If the new key won't start the car, then your other key is not the master. <_<

Unfortunately if it does it from the interior switch as well as the remote, it's probably the doorlock controller or a wiring issue. <_<

Good find! B)

I'm sure lexxtasy.com has something <_<

I have the injen SRT intake, you don't need anything extra! It will make a difference. B)

ALL are gimmics and crap! Don't waste your money or time. Good for you for checking first. B)

If everything is OEM, more than likely it is the tires. We've had this problem in many different forms on here many times. The Lexus is very picky when it comes to tires and rims and balancing. Many of us have had our aftermarket rims balanced multiple times and even had to install centering rings to help fix the problem. <_<

Could it be that in the summertime the seats were already hot and that's why you felt no difference? <_<

The next time you and your fellow technicians are debating the finer points of brake rotor finish (you’ve done that, right?), ask your buddies how smooth brake rotors should be. When they’ve chewed on that issue for awhile, ask them how flat the rotors should be and how they check flatness (if they check it at all). Then ask them what’s the best way to finish brake rotors and do they really do what they say is best? Brake rotor refinishing might not be a very good topic for the Jerry Springer Show, but it sure generates a lot of arguments. Consider the following: * Rotor surface finish: How smooth is smooth enough? Says who? * Rotor resurfacing: Should rotors be turned every time pads are replaced or not? * Rotor runout: How much is too much? How do you compensate for it or get rid of it? * Rotor flatness and parallelism: How much is too much? Can you even measure it? * Rotor thickness: How thin is too thin? * Hard spots: Will resurfacing remove them or will they come back? * Sanding rotors: Does it help? If so, how should it be done? * Resurfacing equipment: A bench lathe, an on-car lathe or both? * New rotors: Install as is or resurface to true up? Opinions differ about most of these topics, and in some instances opposite points of view may be equally valid. If you’ve been refinishing rotors a certain way and have not had any problems, great. Stick with it. Don’t fix it if it isn’t broken. On the other hand, if you’ve had a lot of comebacks because of brake pedal pulsation, hard pedal or pulling complaints, noise, etc., perhaps you need to reassess your approach to rotor refinishing. Regardless of your views on these issues, the objective in every case is to end up with brakes that stop smoothly, quietly and safely. Accomplish that and you’ll have customers who are satisfied with your work. You won’t have to deal with comebacks, complaints and having to redo a job that should have been done right the first time. ROTOR FINISH How smooth is smooth enough? Smooth enough not to cause pad chatter, noise and increased pedal effort. Turning a rotor too quickly on a lathe leaves grooves in the surface. The grooves are not parallel, but spiral inward towards the center because the lathe bits cut from the outside of the rotor toward the center. When these grooves make contact with the pads, they tend to grab and jerk the pads up and down, setting up vibrations that cause noise and may be felt through the pedal. If you can feel the grooves with your fingernail, the rotor is probably too rough. Another test is to write your name on the rotor with a ball joint pen. If the ink breaks up into dots instead of a continuous line, the rotor is too rough. Smoother is always better because it affects the coefficient of friction, noise, pad seating, pad break-in and wear. Too rough a finish on the rotors can also increase pedal effort because only the peaks between the grooves make direct contact with the pads (at least initially). As the brakes are used, the pads will eventually wear down the peaks and increase the area of contact. But this accelerates both rotor wear and pad wear. So again, smoother is better. As a rule, most new OEM and quality aftermarket rotors have a finish somewhere between 30 and 60 microinches RA (roughness average) with many falling in the 40 to 50 RA range. Some say a rotor finish of 80 microinches or less is good enough for most vehicles. Others say 60 microinches is the magic number, or 50 microinches or less if the vehicle is especially sensitive to rotor finish. The finish is affected most by the crossfeed rate of the lathe, and to a lesser extent by the depth of the cut. Most experts say the best finish is achieved by taking off the least amount of metal as possible. Not only does this extend rotor life, but it also reduces the amount of folded and torn metal on the surface of the rotor. As a rule, the depth of a finish cut should be .002 to .008 inch. If the rotor is in bad shape, multiple cuts should be used: one or more rough cuts followed by a shallow final cut. On bench lathes, a spindle speed of 100 to 150 rpm with a crossfeed rate of .002 inch to .005 inch per revolution should produce a smooth, high-quality rotor finish. On bench lathes with adjustable spindle speeds, the spindle speed should be slowed down for larger rotors. One manufacturer suggests the following speeds: for 10-inch and smaller rotors, use 170 rpm; for 11- to 16-inch rotors, use 100 rpm; for 17-inch or larger rotors, use 60 rpm. The type of tool bits used in a brake lathe also affect the surface finish. Round carbide bits generally produce a smoother finish than angular bits and allow a faster crossfeed rate to save time. Titanium bits with parallel, peripheral ground edges are considered premium bits for this type of work. When turning composite rotors, be sure to support the rotor properly with large bell clamps or adapters to prevent flexing and chatter. EVERY TIME OR AS NEEDED? Should rotors be turned every time the pads are replaced? Many shops resurface rotors every time the pads are replaced whether they really need it or not. Why? Because they want to avoid comebacks. Besides, many customers might think they are not getting their money’s worth if the rotors are not resurfaced as part of a brake job. General Motors has a different opinion. In technical bulletin #00-05-22-002 to its dealers, GM says, "Brake rotors should only be turned when one of the following rotor surface conditions exist: severe scoring with depth in excess of 1.5 mm or 0.060 inch, pulsation from excessive lateral runout of more than .080 mm or .003 inch, thickness variation in excess of 0.025 mm or 0.001 inch, or excessive corrosion on rotor braking surfaces." GM also says "Rotors are not to be resurfaced in an attempt to correct the following conditions: noise/squeal, cosmetic corrosion, routine pad replacement or discoloration/hard spots." In other words, GM frowns on rotor resurfacing during what it calls "normal" pad replacement. But is any brake job ever normal? Every job is different and every rotor needs to be carefully inspected and evaluated to determine its condition when brake work is done. GM says resurfacing rotors unnecessarily shortens rotor life. They also say resurfacing is "ineffective at correcting brake squeal and/or premature lining wear and should not be used to address these conditions — unless specifically directed to do so in a service bulletin." Yet, how many service bulletins have we seen over the years from GM and other auto makers who say the fix for a particular brake squeal condition on a certain make or model is to replace the pads and resurface the rotors? Confusing isn’t it? RUNOUT Though you may not take the time to check it, many experts say you should always measure rotor runout before the rotors are removed for resurfacing. Why? Because if there’s runout in the hub, it will make the rotor wobble as it spins. This, in turn, can lead to uneven wear and pedal pulsation. Rotor runout can be caused by several things: variations in manufacturing tolerances, sloppy resurfacing procedures, a buildup of rust and corrosion between the rotor and hub, and uneven torque on the lug nuts. As a rule, rotor runout should be less than .003 inch on most vehicles. Aiming for .002 inch or less runout is even better. On 1997-2002 Chevrolet Malibu, 1997-1999 Olds Cutlass, 1999-2002 Olds Alero and 1999-2002 Pontiac Grand Am, GM says .0015 inch or less of lateral runout is needed on the rotors to prevent pedal pulsation. If runout is excessive, try indexing the rotor on the hub to see if a change in position helps. Once you know how much runout is on the vehicle, you can compensate when you cut the rotor on a bench lathe. Mount a dial indicator on the knuckle or caliper support and measure rotor runout. Note the location, amount and direction of the runout. After mounting the rotor on the lathe, check runout again with a dial indicator. If it isn’t within .003 inch (and at the same location and direction) of what it was on the vehicle, adjust or shim the rotor mounting until the runout is duplicated. Thin, tapered steel shims are also available for some vehicles to correct runout. The shim is installed behind the rotor with the thickest part 180 degrees opposite of maximum rotor runout. The other alternative is to eliminate the runout using an on-car lathe to cut the rotors in place. ON-CAR VERSUS OFF-CAR RESURFACING When used properly, both types of lathes can give you good results. However, unless you compensate for rotor runout on the vehicle when using a bench lathe, you can’t guarantee a true running rotor when it goes back on the hub. That’s one of the advantages of on-car lathes. They cut the rotor true to the direction of rotation and virtually eliminate runout problems. The drawback with on-car lathes is they are expensive and require a certain amount of skill to setup (equipment with automatic compensation simplifies setup considerably). On-car resurfacing is approved by most vehicle manufacturers, and is recommended for any vehicle that is sensitive to rotor runout. It can also save you a lot of labor on cars that have hard-to-remove captured rotors (certain Japanese makes) and on rear disc brakes. If a rotor is cut on a bench lathe without taking into account runout on the vehicle, it can create rotor wobble that will lead to pedal vibration and uneven rotor wear. Even if there’s little or no runout on the vehicle, mismounting the rotor on the lathe can create runout as the rotor is cut. Causes of this kind of runout include worn arbor hardware, not centering the rotor properly on the arbor, dirt or dings on the rotor hat or center opening that prevent it from being perpendicular to the arbor, or misalignment in the lathe itself. The key here is to inspect your lathe regularly and to make sure the rotor is mounted as straight as possible when it is cut. FLATNESS & PARALLELISM Opinions differ as to how much variation is OK in flatness and parallelism between the rotor faces. Some say as little as .0003 inch variation can cause a noticeable pedal pulsation on some vehicles. The bottom line here is if the driver can’t feel a pedal pulsation, the rotors are probably OK. But if there is a pulsation, you can usually assume the rotor is warped or has variations in thickness and needs to be resurfaced or replaced. Measuring flatness and parallelism is difficult (some say impossible) because it requires numerous measurements all the way around the rotor (eight to 12 places at least). If the tip of the micrometer happens to line up with a small pit in the surface, it will give a false reading that may lead you to think the rotor is warped when in fact is isn’t. Most technicians don’t have the time to take all of these measurements, so they just turn the rotors, cross their fingers and hope the rotors are true. Usually they are. ROTOR THICKNESS Yes, thickness matters. Rotors must have enough meat to absorb and dissipate heat, and to maintain their structural integrity. Thin rotors are dangerous rotors that increase the risk of heat fade, cracking and failure. That’s why most rotors have a "discard thickness" or "minimum machine to" specification on the casting. If you can’t find it or the numbers are illegible, look up the spec in a service manual or electronic database. The "machine to" spec includes a built-in safety margin of .03 to .06 inch. to allow for wear when the rotor is returned to service. But on Fords there is no "discard" dimension, only a "machine to" spec. Ford says their "machine to" spec leaves enough margin for safety so the rotor should last as long as the pads. However, if a Ford rotor is worn below the "machine to" thickness, it should not be resurfaced or returned to service. It must be replaced. Rotor thickness should always be measured with a micrometer when linings are replaced, before rotors are turned — and after rotors have been turned to make sure the rotors are within specifications. There should be no argument on this point! HARD SPOTS & CRACKS Hard spots in rotors lead to uneven wear and changes in thickness that cause pedal pulsation. Hard spots may be the result of poor quality castings or from excessive heat that causes changes in the metallurgy of the rotors. A sticky caliper or dragging brake may make the rotor run hot and increase the risk of hard spots forming. Hard pots can often be seen as discolored patches on the face of the rotor. Resurfacing will shave the tops off the hard spots and restore flatness and parallelism, but it’s only a temporary fix. Sooner or later the hard spots usually return and you have he same problem all over again. A better repair option here would be to replace the rotor. Cracks are another concern with rotors. Cracks can form as a result of poor metallurgy in the rotor (too hard and too brittle because the rotor was allowed to cool too quickly during the casting process). More often, they are the result of excessive heat (heavy prolonged braking or a dragging pad). Some minor surface cracking is tolerable and can often be removed by resurfacing. But large cracks or deep cracks weaken the rotor and increase the risk of catastrophic failure. SANDING ROTORS This debate has gone on for years. Most suppliers of bench lathes and on-car lathes say sanding after turning is not necessary as long as proper feed rates and sharp lathe bits are used. The finish should be within specifications and cause no problems. Proponents of sanding, on the other hand, say it improves the finish by making rotors smoother. Sanding knocks off the sharp peaks, torn and folded metal left on the surface by the lathe bits, and may improve the surface finish 2 to 5 microinches for better pedal feel, pad seating and overall brake performance. Rotors can be sanded various ways. One is to apply a non-directional finish with #120 to #150 sandpaper on a flat sanding block. Another is to use a flexible ball-style hone in a hand-held drill to buff rotor surfaces (medium #120 grit or fine #240 grit). A third method is to use an abrasive pad in a drill, but some say this technique is risky because it’s hard to do an even job and metal buildup on the pad may actually make the surface rougher unless a fresh pad is used for each side of the rotor. The best advice if you do sand is to do it carefully, evenly and don’t remove too much metal. A minute or less on each side should be enough. A related issue here is whether or not rotors should be cleaned after they have been turned or sanded. Though few people actually take the time to do it, washing with hot soapy water can remove bits of metal that would otherwise end up embedded in the new pads. Those who do wash their rotors say it reduces noise comebacks. NEW ROTORS Should new rotors be given a "clean-up" cut before they are installed? Most rotor suppliers say no. Rotors are machined to specifications and are ready to install as-is from the factory. Resurfacing just reduces the life of the rotors and increases the risk of cutting runout into the rotors that wasn’t there in the first place (if a bench lathe is used). The flip side of this position is that new rotors may not be as perfect as the manufacturers say they are. Cleaning up the rotors before they are installed is cheap insurance against comebacks. The comeback from the manufacturers is that quality rotors shouldn’t need cleaning up. If there’s a problem, it is only with cheap rotors that are inferior quality and are not manufactured to close tolerances. That’s a good reason to buy quality rotors from a reputable supplier. <_<

Some people prefer slotted rotors because of problems that came about when cross drilled rotors first came to market. At that time, quite frequently the holes were drilled too large, penetrated the cooling vanes, and were not radiused or chamfered. The end result was that the rotor lost its structural integrity and tended to crack, so slotted rotors were developed. Today, we rarely experience problem with cross drilled rotors unless they are subjected to extreme abuse, such as in competition. They do help dissipate the hot gasses, but not to the same degree as cross drilled, usually lowering operating temperatures about 100 degrees. They also tend to wear brake pads quicker because the slots act like a razor blade each time they go by. We always recommend cross drilled unless you are particularly concerned with structural integrity. In some cases, only slotted rotors are available. "Hat type" rotors (pictured above) are silver cadmium plated to prevent corrosion. <_<

I have drilled and slotted rotor and have no squeaks or problems of any kind. I did use antsqueak gel on the pads. I've heard good things about metal masters. <_<

Thanks. I must have mished Kino's post. BTW - Are happy with your selection? Would you purchase again? Herk ← Yes, I haven't used them alot but they are good quality. <_<

See kino's post on this, this has already been covered. I have the race concepts on my Z. <_< B)

Was this what she said happened after she hit the house? :P It may be a throttle switch. We've heard of that but usually with the opposite results. B)

has the timing belt and tensioner been replaced recently? Has all the fluids been changed, including diff and tranny? Has the radiator been replaced? 02 sensors? water pump? cam and crank seals? control arms? struts? cap, rotor, plugs. wires? :whistles:

This is our one chance to get them, so tell everyone and get the word out. B) The more people we get the cheaper it will be. SC 1992-1999 GS 1993-2004 ES 1992-2000 IS 2001-2004 LS 1990-2000 RX 1998-2000 NEW SEAT SKINS GB