TomWoodLexus

it involves dropping the cradle, then the engine/tranny and seperating the two. The simply pry the seal out and jam the new one in like this: BAM BAM BAM!!! Then put it all back up! There is alot to take off, many connections including axles, rack(steering) and fan, radiator.... ect... True on the PCV valve. If the seal is dry and hardened, there may be nothing you can do except replacement. But try PCV valve first and let some time pass. This valve should be replace every 20K.

It is quite a job. I just did mine today. While I was in there, I also replaced my cam seals, and timing belt. It takes a few specialty tools. Also replaced the PCV valve so that my rear-main doesn't spring a leak after the pressure increase from the cam seals hoding! I should have replaced the front engine seal, but it wasn't in stock and I had to have a ride home! When I diag a water leak on the 300 engines, I first check the exhaust for white smoke, then I check as best I can for a leak at the intake, then I check out all the hoses. You obviously have a leak in the general area of the pump. If coolant is mostly around the belt area, make sure it is not the intake gasket (visual as best you can, if the area under the fuel rail is dry and around it, it's not leaking) make sure it is not a hose. Then check the weep hole that is at the very right of the water pump housing. If coolant is coming out of it, that means the seal that seperated the bearing from the coolant gave way. Coolant will fluch the grease out of the bearing and soon the bearing will whine, soon after that it could lock up. There is no reason not to change the timing belt while you are paying a technician to do it. It is only a charge for parts, labor is 5 hours for a timing belt or a pump. But no extra labor if doing both. I would not attempt this unless you are a lexus/toyota tech. Or a mechanic... or just plain know how to work on cars.... I don't know what I am saying anymore...

You want a dealer to install that radio, they do it right (assuming you do it at Tom Wood Lexus that is...) a quality hjob has alot of stuff under the dash console and splicing into some wires to the radio. The dealers have done alot of these and they know exactlky where everything needs to go. I would not trust anyone else. And you know that the dealers warrenty is going to be the best. If that radio quits working, and is screwed up in some way, the dealer will bend over backwards to make sure it gets fixed right. Again, I can only speak for the Tom Wood Lexus dealership.

Manufacturers like to !Removed! the word "sub-assy" to many components. Like the dash is actually called the "safety pad sub-assy" It is just the evaporator core.

Sometimes a dash rattle can arise from this situation. Add on the ticket that you also hear a rattle coming from the dash, the dealer will perform a TSB on it while they are under there to insulate many things.

If there was no such thing as Lexus.... I would work for GM.

The big thing is that lexus vehicles are known to get many miles out of them, but these old ES's have camry engines in them, 1MZ-FE is exactly the same, so milage will vary upon maintenace. Personally, you couldn't GIVE me a car with over 200K on it. Lexus vehicles hold their value extremely well. My 1994 ES would get $4850 if it got totaled.

If you have original pink fluid then... NO NO NO! Toyota uses SLLC or Super Long Life Coolant. It is pink in color. Different coolants that mix can gel up, some can mix to form corrosive chemicals that will eat your system. There are coolants that say they mix with all others, but don't mix anything with toyota coolant. By the way, all lexus parts are toyota parts, I always refer to parts as TOYOTA! TOYOTASHI!

Man, those dvd's are expensive! But they are what they are... It is quite easy to install, but due to price, I have only done a few. On most cars, the Map dvd is in the trunk, under the right hand side carpet and covers, on some cars (LS) they can be either in the glove box or the trunk, I cannot state the specific location for each year and model, but it is as easy as ejecting the cd and putting a new one in. And also, most trunk dvd's have a few nuts hoding the player in place, and must be taken off to get it out! When it is changed, turn the key to the ACC position and while the sytem loads................. DO NOT TURN THE POWER OFF!!!

I want a better muffler on my 94 es300. I want more of a throaty sound that this rice burner sound (I have a leak right before the muffler) The guy I work with has a nice muffler on his 96 LS. It is pretty subtle and quiet at idle while still sounding deep, it is nice and noticable on light acceleration and cruising, and it is aggresive on haerd acceleration. Of course that is a big V-8, but I am a newbie in the exhaust portion of the auto industry. So a few questions: 1.) does anyone here have an aftermarket muffler on their old ES's? I thought I had more questions I guess......

Yeah, that is definately mounts. You don't need struts as long as they work good and have no leaks. At that milage I would recommend getting front struts and mounts done, and get the sway bar links looked at, they can cause noise very similar to strut mounts except for it is way softer of a sound. You will need an alignment after doing anything that has to do with strut removal as well.

Hmmm... Ok. I know the tranny has regular maintenance done to it, I was playing around one day and looked up the service history on the computer at work. Few warrenty items, like re-setting steering wheel nut to proper torque, and a new tranny at 30k. It has had all the other services done, and the bigger 30k 60k and the ultimate 90k done to it. The fluid was drain and filled 5 times over the period of a month because when I bought it, sometimes it would not shift by itself and I pulled a code for the dolenoids. I figured that too much particulate matter plugged solenoid A up. That is exactly what TIS said too. But I replaced them and replaced bad wires from the ecu to the tranny. But in coincidence (sp?) the ECU was internally open for the solenoid A circuit! So a used one from a 1995 ES is on it's way! I also did a complete flush when I found out about the regular service! BYW, I am in chicago right now for the LEXUS foundations course, so after tomorrow I will be a certified Lexus technician! YAY! I also just got the results back from ASE through myase.com, and I know have passed 6 auto ASE's, double YAY! I took four at a time for the fall testing, so I need to take 2 more in spring to become master ASE! But enough about me and being modest :whistles: Thanks for all the input! I definately would ,like a pool of info for anyone that has a 1994-1995 es300 for RPM's at 70 MPH. Thanks guys!

It has about 90K on the tranny, the car has 120K on it. Fluid is new. I think it is weird that it cruises at 3K at 70 MPH. My cutlass goes 2K at 70! What kind of crappy milage are you guys getting at city and highway? (fuel)

So I have figured out that my ECU is to blame for my "solenoid circuit A electrical" code. But the car does pretty high RPM's when cruising. It does 2200 at 55 MPH. And 3,000 at 70! Does that sound right to you guys?

I do alot of dash rattles. It involves taking out the dash and applying felt to anything that touches anything! Wanna see what an ES lloks like when I did the TSB on it? Your car will look like this when the dealer fixes it! Scared? You shouldn't be.

The reason they don't have the one-way flap is because there is a valve that prevents you from putting anything in the tank unless you hit the fuel door button. I do not know why they do this, but after hitting the button, you have like... 25 minutes to fuel up before the valve closes.

Lots of new models have no tranny dipsticks.

Cannot be done. Only a dealer can program the key.

Take it to your local dealer. They will probably re-calibrate the module for the tranny. If that doesn't fix it, they will replace it... under warrenty. You will also get a loaner as well.

You don't have to remove anything to lube the bump stops, or more commonly called "jounce bumbers" It is on the strut rod under the dust boot. Just jack the front end up for room to see the strut, pull the boot up and slide the yellow bumper down. That is it, the yellow thing.

As a technician myself, let me tell you this: I didn't build it, buy it, or break it.... but I can fix it. I can also tell that a key job has nothing to do with those circuits. something surged and too many amps flowed though the circuit. If I were you, I'd be happy the fuse blew and saved all those delicate electronics.

It is a code for the VVT-I. Your bank 2 oil control valve most likely needs to be replaced. Either that, or the circuit is faulty, but provided the wiring is in good shape and the computer is good, the valve is bad. I would trust most shops to do the procedure, it is not a hard component to replace. Definately not deep into the engine. If I were him, my next step would to verify the condition of the wiring (check resistance from the wire going right from the computer to the valve) Also, that is a misfire code. Should be very noticable!

oh yeah... usually people who can afford the SC don't care about replacing tires often, because they like to race around in them.. and if they can afford the car, they can surely get the tires!

I know this may be a dead post, but I was searching for stuff on google and came across it. The reason the SC cars get bad tire wear is Neg. camber.... usually. You can also have other angles out, but there is alot of Neg. Reason being is that it greatly improves cornering stability. And when Lexus thought of doing that, it is to make them be able to say "this car can do the slalom 2 seconds faster than car X" So bring out the rear camber from -0.2 to -.05 and you will be fine. Also, make front right camber more negative than left front camber. Just a bit...

So many reasons not to run tranny fluid instead of oil. First being that transmission fluid is for the transmission and motor oil is for the engine. Second being that tranny oil was not designed for the heat that a engine puts out. Third being that motor oils have different viscosities (sp?) that allow oil to flow well in the cold, and thicken when hot. Fourth being that tranny oil doesn't lubricate as well as even conventional oil, fifth.... ect...ect...ect...