TomWoodLexus

American Car? Funny! Almost ALL those cars you speak of are made in other countries.

No--the post is incorrect as it was edited. The first replacement was under warranty. A little over a year later, the mirrors don't work again. There is no warranty. Service knows there is a problem as is apparent from all the forum posts--(not just this string but others too), but goes through an exercise of trying to convince me that driver's side mirrors do not tilt more than 1/4 inch when I know how they performed when they were new. Now there is no warranty. Why can't/won't Lexus go ahead and recall and come up with a fix that won't cost owner's up to $2000 dollars? And why can't Lexus reps just tell us there is a problem rather than suggest that the owner/driver doesn't know what she is talking about when she explains how the mirrors aren't performing? Clearly my complaint is no where near the first that Lexus is aware of. And this malfunction is dangerous when trying to merge onto busy highways I understand your frustration and dread the day mine stop working because I just passed 50k miles. I must ask though: How can this malfunction be dangerous when trying to merge onto busy highways? Correct me if I am wrong, the malfunction will cause the mirrors to cease tilting down when the car is placed into reverse. You do not reverse onto a highway. If the mirrors fail to tilt, then wouldn't you just turn off the auto tilt function and set the mirrors to the desired postition and leave them there? steviej That is a Negatory! It is dangerous because after they tilt down and you get out of reverse, they can (and have) failed to come back up due to an open circuit. By the by, I have take one apart and it was the motor that failed, open circuit.... grease in the connectors... HA! I didn't believe that stuff tey said anyways! Is it common? Not really, pretty low failure rate. Not an epidemic! Also, I have been working for Lexus numerous years (technician) if anyone has any questions they would like answered with a no-bull response, just PM me! I have seen alot of stuff go down, I have solved lots of mysteries, and I can help with unusual problems!

belt (confirmed by me!)

HA! I don't replace sensors off the bat. I can do a testing sequence to test the lag, crosscount, and voltage range of the sensors, then test for a bad cat. Than again, I am bragging. Get an EXPERIANCED Lexus tech to look at it! DON"T LET A N00B DO IT!!!!

Yes, however the never need replacement... damage?

Alright! Tom Wood Lexus of Indianapolis is proud to present to you a new type of coolant (not exactly new) being installe into your cooling systems! DEXCOOL! Yes, they have replaced the factory pink fluid with the all too popular Dexcool coolant.

IAC. Try cleaning it out.

How about top notch performer like the GS460 or the hybrid version. Roomy like the ES, performs better than the IS. The LS 460 is really the Ultimate though.

It is where the rubber boot is that the shaft that connects the steering wheel to the rack. Where the intermediate shaft turns against the rubber is where it comes from. You can take it to the dealer for a free fix. At least I never charge for that. Actually, my whole team doesn't charge for that. You can use wet silicone spray, but I used a small bit of lithium grease to keep it from coming back. It's greased from the factory anyways.

Well, I would start with an OEM part. If not the answer, replace the climate control.

Insurance claim. I know that there is no exchange discount at my dealership, I dropped one and the "ship: had to shell out like.... 5K or so to replace it.

PREMIUM PREMIUM PREMIUM!!! Then again, my dealership sent out an APB saying all new cars, loaners, and PDI checks get mid-grade only. I stick with premium. I mean if it comes to 10 gallons of fuel, that extra 10 cents per gallon only mean an extra dollar.

Tell them to stand the tires up as much as possible. Like..... -0.2 or 0.0 in rear, same for front. Other thnan that, wide tires wear alot on the sides when turning. Lots of scrubbing action! Remember, this might register as out of specs, but any alignment tech will know it's okay for saving tires, also remember you won't be doing the slalom very well!

That or your engine is overheating! Laters

you mean the DLC? diagnostic link connector.

I just did a rear main last weak and it came back today with a bigger leak! GRRRRR!!!!!! Everything was done right.... seal lloked fine, it just didn't seal! Parts warrenty... lexus got to pay me to do it again.

:oops

never heard of depowerd airbags, so I googled it. Good lesson! But now I am scared of my airbag...

Oh, and so to not to confuse.... don't drain your differentail!!! I was talking about FWD trannys where the differential is in the same housing AND uses the same fluid AND shares that fluid with the tranny! You probably know this, but I would feel like crap if you came back with a locked up diff!

Thats weird that you couldn't speak with him. I mean, I am always covered in work and I go up to the waiting area to talk to people all the time! I like people to know what is going on with their car and what I am doing. This isn't a chevy dealership now........

Oh shoot... I messed up on that first post where I said from 02 to .05! That makes no sense!!! usually factory makes them 1.5 neg, and I take them to .5 neg. I have no idea what I was doing when I posted that first time! I am so sorry if anyone cut and re-welded their swingarms thinking they needed to go .05!!!! <bangs head on table> EDIT: I am sorry cmartin248, I should have read your full post before answering! I made the previous post without reading that at all! then this on after reading some, and now an edit after reading all of it. Anyways, that last post will answer many of your questions. For the 4 seater thing... it is not a 4 seater, but a 2+2 seater. Whats the difference? Insurance rates. If it was a full blown 2 seater, just imagine what kind of rates you nwould have.... easily double. That is the thought behind it. Also remember to rotate tires after every 5K, each wheel wears a tire a tiny bit differently, and you want each tire to get the same wear as eachother. SC tires will still wear out faster than a regular car, but they are not regular cars, they are... super awesome look good cars!!! Fair power? maybe, I do prefer to call them sluggo's. They need begger engines. Yeah, they move, but the way they look, you would expect that buger to move movemove!!!

Wow, I can't believe I made it back into the SC forum! By chance you have posted today and I checked today! Anyways, the thing with wide tires and low profiles is that when the front tires turn, the sidewalls don't flex any. Bigger ratio tires flex to the side a little and this attributes to a major part of a tires wear, and shoulder wear big time. So city driving takes it's toll. But as for alignment, I usually do this: 1.) adjust both rear cambers to least amount of negative I can, and whichever wheel is the most neg, I match it to keep them the same. If at all possible go .4 degrees negative. I usually have to match at .6 in most cases. The key is to stand the tires up more, but keeping some Neg. camber for stability. It this point, the car will still corner like no other. 2.) adjust rear toe to factory spec (alignment machine tells the tech this) 3.) Do the same on front camber, stand them up as much as possible, never go positive. I like to put the front left wheel at .3 and the front right at .5 or .6 reason being is that it will not create a drift, and it lessens the effects of road crown pulls. $.) adjust front toe to factory specs. Is that a dollar sign?!? Oh well.... Tips on dealing with alignment techs: Understand that for an alignment technician, they get paid 1.5 hours for the job and they can do a good alignment in 15 minutes with a digital rolling compensation alignment machine. Sometimes that actually have to "work" for that money and spend an hour on a good alignment. If they don't want to spend the extra time to get that alignment to what you want, it will show on the print-out. I forget if the SC had any struts... I am an idiot today... I haven't worked on an SC for a while. But the adjustments on a strut involves loosening and re-tightening bolts on the strut to knuckle mount. They will only adjust so much, and the answer to adjust more than what it will go is a process called a "strut grind" where the strut hole (top one) is wallowed out by grinding it. Some techs like to charge extra... ABSOLUTELY DIRTY POOL!!!! This is why the alignment pays 1.5, for when all adjustments will have to be made with their various processes! Don't let ANYONE try to pilfer money out of you for this!!! DEMAND they do what is rightfully included in this service that you are paying for! Okay, just remembered the rear is adjustable cams, and I believe the front is a short-long arm suspension.... still can't remember the front.. ARGGHHH!!! Anyways, I must add that I am a perfectionist when it comes to alignments, and I take them way too far and take a lot of time to get vehicles aligned perfectly. That is where all these tidbits come from. Maybe that is why I am not the alignment tech at Tom Wood Lexus (I do some of them, but there is a tech there who does them all day, he is extremely good, his name is Tim and you will not be disappointed in his alignments) I don't want to give anyone a bad name in the auto world, but the reason I give you a section on dealing with alignment techs in because many indy shops out there will do shoddy jobs to make a quick buck. Best to take this to the dealer, it cost an extra R$30 more (where I work) than an indy for an alignment, but it is a professional job. Another thing is to make sure you are getting this alignment done on a HUNTER DSP machine!!! Now this is set aside to make sure you don't over-read this... HUNTER DIGITAL MACHINE DIGITAL!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Lasers are accurate, but techs do shoddy work on them because they take a lot of time to set up and will skimp on the work! I can teach you why, but it would take 40 hours of lecture, so just stick with a hunter DSP series DIGITAL!!!! alignment machine. I can go on and on about alignments, but this much info will get you the best alignment possible. If you can, go to a dealer with the DIGITAL!!!! machine. Now for the tires.... If you go to regular tires, make sure your SC has a mini-spare. They are equipped with run flats because putting a spare in the trunk takes a lot of space. There is a conversion trunk kit available from the dealer to make the space go in a specific place and look pretty. Have no idea on cost, but it is a must of going away from run-flats. That is the cons of run flats, you will need a spare if you get a flat, they won't run! Pun intended! Last note: I don't want Tom Wood Lexus to get a bad name with this guide floating around with specs that will get some "red" on the alignment machine. Note that these custom alignment specs are to save tires. So why does the factory send out cars with so much negative camber that will wear out tires so fast? Answer: you think the factory cares about tires wearing out fast? If your SC gets at least 20K then they don't care. Not that they want you to buy tires more often, but more negative camber will make the car more stable in cornering and makes it so Lexus can say : "our car can do the slalom 2 seconds faster than their car!" Okay, thats it I am taking this post too far! Go get that alignment now that you are armed with this info! Get every dollar's worth! Go to the Dealer! Jesse A. Lane P.S. DIGITAL!!!!!!!!!!!

I always do this procedure (though I have yet to see anyone bring an SC in the shop for a tranny service) I will drain the fluid into a container, and put the same amount back in. Of course I check the fluid after warming up and after shifting through all gear ranges, but it is always dead on. EDIT: Also, I have been doing these things on ES vehicles, and after draining the pan and differential, almost one gallon comes out. And the more I think about it, the reason I don't see alot of older SC's is because I guess when a car gets old enough, people go to cheaper places to get their vehicle serviced.

check for voltage and ground!

If the wheels are the same, transfer the old airbag over. Besides, disconnecting the airbag won't set a code off, there is no way for the computer to moniter the circuit, because the smallest amount of voltage would set it off.