TomWoodLexus

I was rear-ended in my 1994 Lumina. It was totaled. I got $1900 for it. I work at a Lexus Dealership and the Lot guy had a 1994 ES300 and said he would sell it for $1700. It had a code previously for a shift solenoid. I bought it. It is acting up now, but I have new solenoids on the way. It has 120K on it. The body and interior is in great shape! I looked up the entire maintenance history on it, it had everything done, all nservice intervals done at he dealership. The trans was replaced at 30K too. so tranny only has 90K on it. The car should have sold for 5K but I knew him and it has a tranny problem.

BUMP! This is the only bump huys! If no one answers, I won't do it again! Promise! Just wanted to give it a chance!

Hmmm... I don't remember ever having to compressing the strut to put an axle back into the hub, it would be impossible by hand because the spring extends the strut as far as possible anyways. I do struts on lifts so they are kind of easier at eye-level. I just take the knuckle side ways and pretty much use brute force to get the shaft in the hib, then reconnect the ball joint and it is good. Guess I would have to see a picture.

When unibody vehicles are hit and the sheet metal is bent in anyway, the integrity will never be the same. Yes it may very well be totaled.

The common problem with air suspensions on these fine SUV's is the height sensors, if you bought yours certified, let the shop have it, they will make everything better free to you!

I have had to replace SOOOOO many mirrors on newr GS's!!! The problem(and there is a TSB on it) is that grease gets into the connectors and up and down will not work properly. I usually don't see any grease in them, but that is what Lexus tells us. Either way, bring it to a dealer if it is under warrenty, you will get it replaced since that is the only option. 20090613 I MEANT WARRANTY!! AHHHH!!!! Spelling!

When cars come on the shop with this problem, I always do this right from the start: 1.) I forst sell a cleaning of the intake with a cleaning of the Idle Air Control valve. It is all labor, one hour. Very cheap. 2.) Pull the upper portion of the air filter box off and start pulling pieces of the intake off untill you get to the IAC. The IAC is just under the part of the intake before the throttle plates and is mouted on the bottom of the throttle body. Inside the throttle body you will see an orifice on top of the IAC where air is let in to be bypassed of the plated to control IDLE. 3.) Next, pull off the stpper motor from the actual valve, it has 2 screws, they are tight and easily strippable, so make sure to put FORCE into the screw and use the correct driver. 4.) With a good throttle body cleaning solution (auto parts store, in a can, spray into the !Removed! while turning the valve back and forth. You will notive it freeing up instantly. Also open the throttle plate and spray some into there ans scrub as much of the intake as you can to clean it. 5.) also, under the IAC there is a hose going down, disconnect it so some of the cleaner can escape so the car won't have to try to burn it. And make sure to let the car sit for 5 minutes with a driver inside the body holdingthe throttle plate open to let some of the fluid evaporate so that a slight chance of hydro-lock will be impossible. 5.) put everything back together and make sure EVERY connector is back on and all the vacuum hoses are back on and start the car as so in step 6. 6.) Starting the car is hard with all that crap in there, so put the car in clear flood mode by giving the car 100% throttle and turn it over untill it starts. In clear flood mode the computer notices that the voltage from the TPS is high and will not pulse the injectors (usually anything above 3.5V) and when the engine does more than 300 RPM's than it will pulse injectors. That is why when it fires it will rev up. It may run rough for about 3 seconds. After that I usuallt let the engine sit at 2000 RPM's for 10 seconds to let the high amount of air flow suck everything dry and voilal! High idle is gone. Sometimes the high idle stays, further diagnosis is required, but we can get to that later if that happens.

definately sounds like the solenoid is binding up. Check for a good batter, then the ground from the battey Neg. to where it attatches to the body for tight connections, check tight (and clean) connections to the starter, and check that the starter is tightly bolted to the bell housing since the ground is the case of the starter. If all that is good than it is DEFINATELY a bad starter.

Hi everyone! I am a new technician at a Lexus dealership. I just got rear-ended in my Lumina and inherited a cheap 1994 ES300. I love this car! I knew that a shift solenoid code had came up before, and now the shift solenoid code is back. I now start off in (I think) third gear and it will go into fourth (overdrive) The only way for first is to manually shift into low. Sometimes it will shift properly, but rarely does it do that. I do not believe that cluthces are any bit of a problem, because when it does shift into lower gears, it runs great, no slippage or noise. I did a drain & fill hoping to ease the tranny into new fluid as not to srping leaks with the old seals and o-rings in the trans. I called TIS and they said the tranny's have a problem with excessive particulate matter blocking solenoid operation at times. I ordered some solenoids for cheap, also came with a TCC solenoid! I just flushed it yesterday when I saw the history and the tranny was replaced in 1996 at 30K, also had it's 60K and 90K service done. It now has 120K, so the flushes are on the mark. Also had 75K for timing belt. But beofre it did this, and still now, the engine is doing 2,200 RPM's at 55 MPH and 3,000 at 75 MPH. Does that sound right? I can't tell if the TCC is kicking in, I haven't looked up the operation, I figure it is pulse-width mdulated in which case you wouldn't feel a properly working one. So anyone have these similar problems? Hard for a dealer to diagnose, tranny problems=replacement. I heard that the shop used to replace solenoids at some time long ago, but then the tranny would be even worse, now there is absolutely NO internal work done. Besides, the ECU probably only knows that it gave the Power for the solenoid to go "on" and the result of a gear didn't happen, so maybe it THINKS it is a solenoid when really a valve is just stuck with gunk??? IDK! But I do not llike the fact that the trans has no filter! Only a pick-up screen! So I am also going to install an in-line filter.