carguy07

99.9% sure you are fine. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=330282

Hey I think I am having the same problem with my 2000 RX300 :( Let me know if you get any helpful replies... Thanks! I have a 2000 RX300 also. I don't have a problem starting at all. What happens with me is that when idling at a light or whereever, the RPMs drop by 100RPM or more and makes it feel a little rough. If I shift to neutral or park, the RPMs go back up. While under warranty, I brought it to the dealer but they didn't find a solution even though they tried a few things. The Dayton Lexus guys have been great, no complaints, but would love to fix this idle thing. Did you try the suggested fix above and did it fix your problem? thanks Cleaning the IAC valve could very well fix that problem.

With trips that short your oil is not going to reach full temp anyway (assuming you are not sitting in traffic). I would say 10W-30 Mobil 1 Extended Performance and Mobil 1 filter. IMO No need to go to a blend then full synthetic either, just switch it over.

Pintos, Gremlins & Citations usually self destruct at 65k-75k. Lexus has build a reputation of making it a little farther than that. I'm hopeing to get closer to 200k out of mine.

What's the spray bottle for??

Just push it in old school. There is actually a drum for the parking brake inside the rotor hat. This wil help you out. Easy DIY. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=264864

This shows how to clean one. Just pop a new one in if you want to replace. http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/knowledge...id=152&c=11

Yes he did, I just assumed he got it wrong You're probably right. 13.73 amps would not do you much good.

He said Amps not Volts.

I used to use that filter set up on other cars with good luck. Any concerns about line pressure dropping? Do they bypass if plugged?

Stupid question, but is the battery totally dead? No lights, etc, or just not starting? Is it trying to start at all?

Make sure you give it a full charge before you take it to be tested. Let us know what you find. I doubt you are the first one to have the problem.

I would say start over at step one, fully charge the battery and have it tested. Sounds a lot like your previous problem but until you verify that it is not the battery you are going in circles.

I would clean the sensors before doing anything else: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=285023

Try this: http://mywebpages.comcast.net/rx300how2/ac_tube.htm

I think this is a link. I hate to keep seeing these things dieing! Maybe some day we will all get a post card in then mail like the sludge one and get a little extra warranty. http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/index.cfm

Wow! FWD is hazardous in the snow. Despite all of the ramblings of a few gurus this car is a great in the snow. Nothing hazardous, just the opposite. Anyone feel like this is similar to a global warming debate? If someone keeps saying something enough times it becomes true? Lets play a game. Can we get a second vote that FWD is hazardous in the snow? How about the people with RX300's with AWD, sucks right? Gota be at least two of you out there.

Flush was the only option that the local Lexus dealers offered. Said the filter never needs serviced. I'm doing several drain and refills DIY instead. Would that be Lexus of Akron Canton? I actually called Metro Lexus up toward Cleveland. They are supposed to have the same owner though. I'm sort of fed up with the Akron dealer's service. Keep catching them in stupid lies, if you call them out on them they look you in the face and lie again. Pushed me to start DIYing stuff I was going to pay them to do. Metro seems top notch, just not the answer I wanted to hear for the trans fluid.

Flush was the only option that the local Lexus dealers offered. Said the filter never needs serviced. I'm doing several drain and refills DIY instead.

I would not put that to the test too often seeing as the fuel pump uses the gas in the tank for cooling. I would guess there are 3-4 gallons left when the light comes on, so 50 miles or so.

That makes sense, I think I have a coper one that would work in a pinch. Thanks!

Found it in the bottom of the pan.

Got the trans and front diff draining. I did not find a washer for the diff plug. Is there supposed to be one there?? I'm refering to draining the ATF from the front diff. If there is supposed to be one I think it will be a flat aluminum one like the pan plug has.

I did not remove mine since they moved freely after smacking them with a hammer. They felt like they were still full of grease and even turned freely. The arrow in your pic points to the slide, it has rubber boots on the ends. It needs to be able move in and out without binding to work properly. Give them a few smacks from both sides and they will break loose. If they do not move freely after you break them loose then you will have to take them apart to grease. If the boots are still in good shape, my guess would be a few pops with a hammer and you will be back in business.

That is your problem. Tap the slides with a hammer and they will break loose. They both have to move freely or you will never get it back together and the caliper will not float properly. Mine were seized up on both sides when I did my brakes and the rotors were not making good contact on the outside. One tap with a hammer fixed them and they moved again just like they are supposed to. My guess is yours will do the same. Let us know if this fixes it.