Montalvo

Well, first an update on my replacement of the alternator. I put the new one in since my last post and haven't had a problem with the battery going dead since then. And yes, I should have said volts, not amps (pretty embarrassing for a degreed engineer!). According to the installation instructions on the alternator, my old one's voltage tested within what they called an acceptable range, although who knows whether those crack mechanics at Wal-Mart tested it correctly. So, is my problem fixed? Well, I thought so until last night when my car alarm began sounding intermittently in the garage for no apparent reason. I put my key in the ignition and that seemed to keep it from going off. Could it be related to this problem? Did I screw something up while replacing the alternator? And if so, why didn't I have a problem until just last night? I followed the installation instructions carefully, including disconnecting the battery during installation, but with all the electronics in even "old" cars like my 2000 RX, it's possible I messed up something. Regarding Keri's problem with an occasional dead battery, you might want to read thru my posting from 2006 when I had a similar problem that turned out to be the body control module, finally diagnosed and repaired by the dealer. Bob

First, thanks to all who took the time to respond. I took carguy07's advice and started by having the battery checked. I had bought the battery at Wal-Mart and they charged it and then checked it for free (it was still under warranty). They said that although the battery checked out fine, the alternator was only putting out 13.73 amps and was either starting to go or had a problem. I took their word for it (probably not the best idea) and decided to buy an alternator. I called Napa Auto Parts and they had a new (or maybe rebuilt...I didn't ask) alternator for $217 but it was at a store twelve miles away. Having not yet read Lenore's message about lousy Kragen batteries, I then called Kragen and they had an alternator in stock...and it was only $137 (rebuilt) so I bought it. It was an Autolite Pro-Tech with a lifetime warranty and 24 months of free roadside assistance. Hope it doesn't have the same quality as their batteries! I'm in the process of installing it and will report back to let you know if it fixed the problem. Bob P.S. I read another post about the battery drain associated with having a car sit for long periods. In my case, we took two week-long vacations in December and the battery died shortly after returning from the second one. I'm thinking that the battery was so low when we returned that the weak alternator wasn't capable of generating enough juice to re-charge it. The car's got 91K miles on it so I guess having things like alternators crap out on you is par for the course.

Thanks, carguy07. I kinda thought that would be the best answer but was hoping someone would say, "Oh, I went though the same thing. That year/model has a short in the XXXX...check that out first." Off to check the battery and then we'll see where to go from there. Bob

In August of 2006, I posted a question on this forum about the battery going dead on my 2000 RX300, thinking I might be able to fix the problem on my own. But after replacing the battery and getting some helpful advice, I finally relented and took the car to my dealer. He replaced the body control module for $812.47 and that seemed to fix the problem. Fast forward to this past weekend...another dead battery. The battery is, of course, only 16 months old (10K miles) and I didn't do anything that would have caused the battery to run down. I've since recharged the battery and attached a trickle-charger but it appears to be continuing to have to add juice to keep the battery charged (in other words, it appears that there's an on-going loss of current somewhere). Given my last experience, I can't help wondering whether this has to do with the previously replaced body control module and, if so, did they just correct a symptom by replacing it when something else was actually causing it to go bad and it's killed the new one now? So...what to do now: Take it back to the dealer? Buy a body control module myself, replace it and see if that fixes the problem? Run some tests to verify the amperage leakage? Start looking at the 2008 models? Thanks for any suggestions you can offer. Bob

Dang...SKPerformance, where were you when I needed that assessment? Sounds like I might've been able to save $300 in labor costs by installing the BCM myself, assuming that I could verify that that was my problem. Well, maybe your post will provide a clue for the next victim of amperage leakage. Bob

OK, my first attempt at kicking the tires on a new RX didn't go so well. I went to pick up my 2000 RX after getting the body control module replaced ($812.47, less than their quote over the phone) and thought I'd take a peek at the new RX350. I stood in the middle of the showroom for a full seven minutes. I was the only customer in the place. At least eight employees walked past me without saying a word. I saw several people sitting in cubicles and made eye-contact with two but they continued to work at their computers. I thought of asking for help but I was curious exactly how long before someone would ask, "Have you been helped?" It never happened. I've heard of low-pressure selling but here it was on life support! I finally gave up, took my tired RX300 and went home. I would have expected this level of service from a doctor at 2:45 on a Wednesday afternoon but I thought that car salespeople in the midst of a sales drought might be a bit hungrier. Guess not... Bob

I picked up the car today and assume that it's all better. The part that was replaced was the "body control module", priced at $461.04 plus $318 labor.

I ran prices on the RX350 and Highlander on carsdirect.com, where I've purchased my last two cars. Equipped the way I would want them, the RX price was about 24% higher. Edmunds.com shows the cost of ownership for the RX (including depreciation) to be about 20% higher. If I ultimately find my decision to be a toss-up, I guess I'd let cost be the decider. Regarding some of the comments regarding the definition of utility: for me, utility is 1) hauling materials (life-long Home Depot and Costco addict), ski trips (less of an issue now since I'm retired and have become a fair-weather skier) and hauling visitors (when we have more than five house guests). My RX has never set wheel off-road so that aspect of utility isn't relevant to me. Because of that I could probably be equally satisfied with a mini-van with a roof rack (I can hear people gasping, "Well Jeez, that PROVES this guy's got no taste!") but that would probably test the limits of my wife's tolerance for embarassment by her declasse husband. As for the contribution of RX features such as HID lights, Bluetooth NAV and the stereo, those are insignificant for me based on my use of the car, although I can readily acknowledge that they might be make-or-break factors for others. I guess all my initial inquiry has proven is that there is no best choice...only a best choice for me (and you). But again, I appreciate the perspectives you've shared. Bob

Whoa, I never thought folks could get so passionate about the "beauty" and "luxury" of a Sports UTILITY Vehicle! Perhaps if you have only one car, you need it to serve a multitude of purposes, e.g., taking you to the lumber yard, the opera and off-roading. But if that's the case, you have to recognize that such universality entails compromises. I'll acknowedge that beauty is in the eye of the beholder but I can't imagine entering an SUV into a beauty contest with sedans. SUVs are big, boxy, bulky, tall...all the things that make them UTILITarian make them far from beautiful. And while the appointments, fit and finish of "luxury" SUVs may put them way ahead of your basic Hyundai sedan, I don't think you could ever mistake riding in a luxury SUV for riding in a luxury sedan. I can't imagine complaining about Corinthian leather seats and a burlwood dash in my SUV but first and foremost, I'm looking for a reliable, comfortable, practical, utilitarian vehicle. Clearly, a number of those posting here are looking for status and luxury. And if that's ALL they're looking for, they really ought to look at luxury sedans...virtually ANY luxury sedan. But if they need the more practical aspects of an SUV, and necessarily have to have everything in one car, I guess that'll necessarily rule out the Highlander. Again, thanks for the spirited input. I did pick up some useful perspectives. Now I better go out and kick some tires... Bob

Some very useful thoughts...thanks to those who replied. But I should clarify a few things. First, I'm not trading in my Lexus because of repair costs. As someone stated, repairing an old car is ALWAYS going to be more economical than buying a new one. But leading up to this latest repair were a series of dead batteries, intermittently over six months, that were really inconvenient. While new cars typically have their share of problems, I think I'll experience fewer inconveniences with a new car than an old one. In the same vein, warranty differences are not much of a consideration in my buying decision. As for style, my wife has two cars that I enjoy driving based on their style (Jaguar XK8 and S-type). I don't mean to offend, but I don't think it's possible to design a really attractive SUV...nature of the beast. I just happen to think that the Highlander is less ugly than the RX...my taste, FWIW. I'd be more than hypocritical to say that I couldn't buy an RX because it's ugly when I've driven one for the past seven years. I've driven the Highlander (a friend's) and a 2005 RX (sister's) and they're both fine cars. They both have a great ride but this won't be the car we'll typically take when going out on the town. My wife has frequently referred to my RX as "my truck", because I use it to haul all manner of junk home from Home Depot. So all this might give you a better idea of where my priorities lie in considering my next SUV. Would like to hear any other thoughts, including those who've had experiences with both vehicles. Bob

Having just committed to spend $850 to repair my 2000 RX300, I'm now getting ready to replace it. I wouldn't even consider getting another RX except for the fact that they've fixed my biggest gripe: the horrible turning radius. But I'd like some thoughts on whether I should get a 2007 RX350 or a 2007 Toyota Highlander. I like the Highlander's styling better than the RX350 and the option of seating for 7 is appealing (although not a critical buying factor). And neither the snob appeal of a Lexus nor its higher price are really a consideration for me. But it doesn't appear that I'd be able to get all of the features that I've come to appreciate on my dated RX300 if I get the Highlander (e.g., no key-operated window rolldown, a great benefit in Sacramento's hot summers). Can anyone offer any additional arguments in favor of the Lexus 350 over the Highlander? Thanks, Bob

OK, I just got the bad news from the Lexus dealer. The problem was with one of the on-board computers...$845. But the woman told me at least it wasn't the $2,500 one. Small consolation. I was preparing to trade this car in when the new models came out this fall. Looks like time wasn't on my side. With today's cars and their electronic controls, there are increasingly fewer repairs that can be done by the owner. But there are also fewer repairs that are necessary so I'd be the last person to go back to the "good old days"...oil changes every 1,000 miles, tune-ups every 10K miles, etc. Thanks to all those who tried to help me out. Bob

I dropped the car off at a Lexus dealer this morning. They found an amperage leak and had begun testing to locate it when it suddenly stopped. They're going to keep the car overnight and hope that the problem resurfaces. But this reinforces my suspicsion that the problem is intermittent, since I had five or six dead batteries over the course of about six months. Of course, the downside is that intermittent problems can be the most difficult to track down so it'll be interesting to see whether the dealer can make effective use of their database of RX300 electrical problems to sleuth out a solution without the symptoms being in evidence. I'll keep you posted. Bob

I guess I assumed that when the key wasn't in the ignition, there shouldn't be any closed circuits and the resistance should be zero. But now that I think of it, the car's anti-theft system would still be drawing current and perhaps other things that don't represent a "problem". If I check the current draw, what level of draw would tell me if I've got a short or malfunction. And would pulling fuses allow me to isolate what circuit was causing the problem? Thanks, Bob

I have a 2000 RX300 and have had intermittent dead batteries over the last six months. Until recently, they've been separated by two to three months and I assumed that I had simply left a door ajar and the dome light ran the battery down. I switched the dome light off and stopped using the automatic headlights but still occasionally had a dead battery (always at home, fortunately). But when I called AAA three weeks ago for a jump, the guy tested my 18 month old Wal-Mart battery and said it was no good. I took it to Wal-Mart and they hooked it up to a large machine, waited ten minutes and then proclaimed the battery OK. Back home again and two days later…another dead battery. This time I insisted on a replacement under the warranty and Wal-Mart gave me a new battery. I brought the car home (after a 15 mile freeway drive), got into the car three days later and…dead battery! I've read through the various stories on this forum describing similar complaints. But I checked the alternator prior to getting the new battery and was getting 13.5 volts and my battery is brand new. I pulled off the cables and checked for resistance with my ohmmeter (set at 1K ohms)…no resistance at all. So I began methodically removing all 53 fuses, testing the resistance between the battery cables after each fuse was removed. There was no change in the resistance (i.e., it remained at zero) with each of the fuses I removed. But I was unable to pull out two of the fuses (big ones): ABS (60A) and alternator (140A). Any suggestions on how to remove them? They're very hard to remove and I'm afraid I'm going to break them. And I also removed something in the main fuse box under the hood that looked similar to a fuse but was labeled "SHORT, D.C.C." on the fuse map under the fuse cover. (I saw this mentioned in an earlier post entitled "Battery Drain Problem".) When I removed it and tested the cables for resistance, I got what looked like 4 ohms of resistance instead of zero as with all the other fuses. Does that mean anything? (Please don't tell me that by pulling that out I've trashed my ECU! :cries: ) Thanks for any suggestions you can offer. Bob