carguy07

You can get a set of 18" wheels and tires in stock from tirerack for $800. What's wrong with those?

I would guess a broken manifold at the o2 sensor or cracked flex pipe.

check engine is on, but they said it had no code for transmission problem Like one of the guys said earlier, a check engine light will lock out overdrive until the problem is fixed (even if has nothing to do with the transmission). You just need to figure out what is causing the light to come on, fix it, clear the codes and the transmission will work correctly again.

Check engine light on or any codes in the computer?

Is your check engine light on or any saved codes?

I have a Tempo Oil boy and it works great, but a few years ago I used it on a Dodge Stealth and it got stuck in the dipstick tube. When I pulled on it to get it out a small chunk of plastic broke off in the tube and fell in the oil pan. Never became a problem, the screen probably kept it out of the system. But, I never used it for oil changes again on a car after that. Now for my mower or sucking power steering fluid, it's awesome. I'm just chicken to send the tube down into a cars dipstick again.

I don't think I would tow anything more than a jet-ski or dirt bike with an RX.

Don't know if this helps at all, but: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=155741 http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=239734 http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=40501 http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=50980

Likely dirty speed sensors, malfunctioning speed sensors or a broken toothed ring on the axle. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=370458

Autozone ceramic pads and rotors. They are great quality and value, seriously. B)

I would do the transfer case, rear diff fluid and probably bleed the brakes. If the belts are squealing at all replace them. Cabin air filter too?

A check engine light will keep the trans from shifting into O/D. Maybe you just need an engine? Now define "locked up". That could be mom talk for a seized alternator or air pump that keeps the engine from turning over. Dig deeper on that one too.

This thread will explain everything: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=220061 Pics of the trans-axle plug borrowed from that thread. The 15/16" drain plug is for the transfer case and it takes gear oil. I got an open end wrench from Ace Hardware and it fit fine. I'm not sure if the your RX330 takes more fluid than my RX300, but mine only needs about 4 1/4 quarts to refill including the trans-axle.

Pull the connector at the harness for the ABS (with the car off and key out) to disable it and then see if it still does it. I'm guessing it's the speed sensors not rotors. Could also be the toothed rings on the axles that the ABS sensors use to get info.

Here is the info you need: SFI__SF__file.pdf

Sounds like an o-ring problem, are they new?

Page 4 number 10. Maintenance__MA__file.pdf

Just look underneath at the rear end. If you see a differential and axles/drive shaft then it's AWD. I think the FWD cars have a traction control button in the center console. Not sure if that applies to all years or not, but the early ones had the button. I'm pretty sure you can look at the VIN too. If the 4th character is H then its 4 AWD if its G then its FWD.

Uh, I just re-read your post. How about some more info on those knock sensors. I'm getting my $ out to bet the tranny is fine.

Who diagnosed the tranny? There are several things that can keep it from shifting into OD besides a bad one. Knock sensor, 02 sensor, MAF etc. Any codes? This one might be a steal for you!

Assuming yours is like my 2001, you have Type T-IV in the tranny and front differential. Gear oil in the transfer case and rear diff. Some people use the words transfer case and diff to mean the same thing on these cars (although I'm not sure why). So basically you take the 2 plugs in that pic out and it will drain tranny fluid from both. Transfer case is a separate unit on the passenger side and you know where the rear diff is. You will need new crush washers for the transfer case fill/drain and rear diff fill/drain plugs. The tranny and front diff washers should be replaced regularly although I have done 5 drain and fills now on the originals and they still seal fine. Here are part #'s http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=326550

Sorry for the delay in posting, but it's been a while since I've visited, and this jumped out at me, being I was just here for my wife's RX. I heartily second this tire choice. I've been a fan of Kumho's since putting a set of KH-11's on a '95 Intrepid ES we used to own. On the side was molded, "FOR SUMMER USE ONLY". Yeah, whatever. I had a dedicated set of snows on a separate set of wheels, which I'd gotten for the mountains west of Denver, but in Portland, OR, there was no way I was swapping tires for the one or two snow days per year. Just not gonna happen. I was one of three people, and the only one w/2wd who showed up at work the one day it snowed. Granted, it took 20 minutes to get into the parking lot, but that was because of the inclines and angles involved. I've recently replaced the positively horrible OEM Headstones on the RX with a set of 5 Kumhos, and I'm quite happy. Only about 300 miles on 'em, but they're quieter and the hum tone they generate is of a lower frequency than the Bridgestones. Treadwear is 680, which gave me pause, as I don't want tires like iron, but they hold the ground better than the OEM heaps. I had a set of Michelin X-Ones on the above-mentioned Intrepid, and positively hated them from day one. The Kumho KR-21's almost impossible to find online right now, backordered until September, but a guy here in Austin, TX, managed to find a set of five, locally. Had 'em on the next day. $470 for all five, mounted, balanced, new stems, w/8.25% tax. It was the same price as me going mail-order then having to pay for all of the above, plus I'd have had to cart the new ones around. No thanks. Sometimes, the corrugated tin roof tire shack ain't a bad place to shop, if you know exactly what you're lookin' for. Discount Tire it wasn't, but Discount was absolutely -0- help this time around. Yep tread design. I have had the KH16's for a while now and they are great for wet and dry. The KR21's are a more agressive tread pattern. Probably better in the snow. The KH16's are nice and quiet, I have been very happy with them. The KH16's The KR21's

Your battery is failing. The clock is sort of an idiot light on these cars.

I doubt it would have much of an effect on your gas mileage. Does it warm up on the gauge?

The filter would not give you any diagnostic help if the oil pressure was low, so I would not worry at all. See if the old filter weighs much more than a new dry one. Curious to see if the old one is holding oil, just not draining back and pouring out when you change it. I think most filters have a check valve to keep them loaded so you don't have to build pressure and refill them at every start up. Makes me more suspect of a filter issue than a car issue. Stupid thought, but if the filter was not holding the normal 1/2 quart or so, would you be under filled if you check the oil when the engine is stone cold?