carguy07

Borrowed from another thread. With the ignition in the on position, push and hold the sunroof tilt button. The sunroof will tilt open, tilt closed, slide open and slide closed. Then you may release the tilt button and the sunroof will be reset. Might have to cycle the windows up and down a few times to reset them too.

69 inch-lbs

You just need the correct style/thread (12x1.5) with the shank and washer. They are off the shelf parts at any decent retailer. Advanced auto Part No. 99017 $3.99 Lexus dealer should only be charging $6 a piece too.

Thanks! :) :) :) :) :)

Pull the front valve cover off and you will know the answer in seconds.

Thanks, I was going nuts trying to figure it out.

I'm sure I'll kick myself for asking because I should know this, but what does COP stand for?

I would hope they get you a long block. If you have sludge, the heads are such a mess that I would never want them back.

Info here: http://www.oilgelsettlement.com/

I would see if you are still covered under the sludge warranty. Sludge info is on here, just do a search and you will find it. If so, pull a valve cover off and see what is in there. Maybe you will get lucky and get a free engine.

I recently did this. The safest and best way in my opinion is via Sewell Lexus. They cut for free and shipped the same day, I was very impressed! My only remote key was in very bad shape so I ordered a new shell and a new master remote for $186 including shipping. Again, they cut via your VIN for free. The shell was $53.32 and the master remote was $125.56. Keep in mind, you'll have to program your additional master remote to start the vehicle. You can find the procedure by searching around here. This might not be the absolute cheapest way to go, but it's a heck of a lot cheaper that your local stealership and in my opinion, safer than e bay or some other online deal. I went with Sewell too. http://www.sewellpartsonline.com Very good to deal with. Had the new key in my hand in less than a week. Use promo code 909RK to knock off something like 15%.

Yea, I really hope the original poster comes back and gives the tried and true fixes a shot. It p!sses me off to no end when a douche bag who clearly has a limited knowledge of repair/maintenance comes on the forums and runs his mouth. It's funny because you want to smack them on the back of the head and school them. But it's sort of the The Emperor's New Clothes thing. If they can't see it now, there is nothing that you can say to change them.

Here's the good news. The guy at autozone was right, and you probably didn't hurt anything at all. This car is nowhere near semi exotic (think Camry) you likely can handle this. What else? Lets see, you did not muck up your MAP sensor because this car does not have one. It does have MAF sensor that is upstream from the throttle body. You don't have plug wires either, whew safe there too. Your throttle body can be filthy and not have bigger problems like an air filter, say what? or blow by. Ok, so it sounds like your car is not idling well and you have not thrown any codes yet. It could easily be a sensor or coil on it's way out, but you should have seen a code by now. So likely it is an issue with the IAC valve and throttle body. I would probably clean the MAF senor too just for grins since it's easy. Here are some links that will tell you what you need to do. If you have no codes my money is on the IAC valve and although it's not super easy it's not hard either, just a pain to get to. Clean the IAC, throttle body & MAF and report back, I bet the car runs great again. But if you do have any codes post them up first before doing anything else. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-first-g...bout-yours.html http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/knowledge...id=152&c=11 http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=30723

Yeah I tried it like a million times and both sides come out smeared Is it better to run the car for little bit and check or check it when its cold? Can you upload a picture please? I will greatly appreciate it :D It needs to be warm to get an accraute reading. Also do not try to read it for a little while after you add some down the tube. It coats the tube and makes it about impossible to get a good read.

Do you have any directions or instructions on how to change the pads and the rotors. I have a 99 Rx 300. The dealer told me that I have 2mm lefts on my pads and may need my rotors machined. He also mentioned that I need new shims. All told he was quoting ~330 for the two rear wheels. Was wondering if this is something I can do myself. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. Prashant http://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-first-g...e-pads-diy.html Very easy job if you have done brakes before.

PB- I can't tell you from personal experience, but it has to be on the right firewall (outside) because it has to be in the immediate area of the evaporator. It can sometimes be a little hard to see because of the inner fender skirt, possibly easier to see from the bottom, with the car jacked up (with stands under it!). Don't know if removal of the inner fender skirt would get you to it or not. Be sure when you deal with the leak that the carpet is dried out completely or you may have some nasty health- hazard mold growing soon. Good Luck! This is for an RX300 but it may be the same as yours: http://home.comcast.net/~rx300how2/ac_tube.htm

search the word "servo"

I have been using the autozone pads (the good ceramic ones) and rotors for quite a while now and feel confident saying that they are very good quality.

Did you use a new gasket/washer on the plug?

Probably this: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=21392

From their site: http://speedbleeder.zoovy.com/c=Xl2suJCLYH.../category/news/ Repair Service with a Smile Occasionally a customer will break a Speed Bleeder off in the caliper or wheel cylinder of the vehicle that they are working on. I guess they don't know their own strength. Well, we understand that these things do happen. Since we don't want the experience of installing Speed Bleeders to be totally devastating we are doing something about it. If you do break one off in your wheel cylinder or caliper, it is a tricky operation to remove . Unless you have access to a few specialized tools it is very hard to remove. This is what we propose.... Remove the caliper or wheel cylinder and ship it to us. We will remove the broken Speed Bleeder at no charge and return it to you repaired with a new Speed Bleeder installed. Generally it will be repaired the same day we receive it and will be returned the following day. We will return it to you via United States Postal Service. It will be sent "Parcel Post" and we will pay the postage. If you want it returned quicker you pay the postage. Send the caliper or wheel cylinder to: Speed Bleeder Products, Inc. 13140 Apakesha Grove Rd. Newark, IL 60541 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Procedure for removing a broken Speed Bleeder For those who would like to remove a broken Speed Bleeder themselves, I will explain the best way to remove the broken Speed Bleeder. Read these instructions over and over until you understand the procedure and feel comfortable tackling this job. If you still have questions or don't understand the steps you can call me or e-mail me for clarification. Do not use an EZ-Out! I can't emphasize this enough! This tool is too brittle and hardened and nine times out of ten you will snap it off and loose any hope of removing the broken part. Before you can remove the broken part you will have to remove the spring and stainless steel ball. You cannot and will not drill through the hardened stainless steel ball. The spring can be removed by using a piece of wire or pick. The ball can be removed with a blast of air from an air compressor. If you still cannot remove the ball because of a burr at the area where the break occurred you can use a drill bit to clean up the burr. Then the blast of air should remove the ball. Next, drill a 1/4" deep hole in the Speed Bleeder with a 5/32" drill bit. A good quality cordless battery powered drill such as "Dewalt" works best for this step. It is easily maneuvered and has a built-in clutch to minimize drill breakage. Try not to go all the way through the bottom of the Speed Bleeder. Then take a 5/32" hex wrench (allen wrench) and tap it into the hole that you just drilled with a hammer. Use a quality hex wrench. A quality hex wrench will be hardened and tempered which makes it strong and ideal for the job. The corners of the 5/32" hex wrench will bite into the sides of the hole forming a hex socket. Then carefully turn out the broken part of the Speed Bleeder. If the wrench spins in the hole and will not remove the broken Speed Bleeder use the next larger size drill bit and corresponding hex wrench. This procedure is one way to remove a broken Speed Bleeder and works very well. Be patient and be careful when doing this procedure. I don't want to see anyone get hurt. Wear eye protection! The latest way to remove a broken Speed Bleeder if the above procedure fails: Usually the Speed Bleeder is broken off flush with the caliper. Take a common 3/8 x 16 nut and lay it centered over the broken Speed Bleeder. Then take a GMAW (gas metal arc welder) or wire feed welder and apply weld through the center of the 3/8 nut to weld the nut to the broken Speed Bleeder. Fill the nut flush with the top of the nut with weld and then let it cool. This essentially welds the nut to the broken Speed Bleeder. Take a 9/16" box wrench and turn the nut counter clockwise and remove the broken Speed Bleeder with a few turns. Before performing the weld process take some common clear packaging tape and cover the caliper with a few wraps of tape to protect the caliper from weld splatter. It works very well. After the Speed Bleeder is removed chase the threads with a clean tap of the correct thread size. Then use a razor blade and carefully remove the tape. The caliper is as good as new.

Attachment page 8, as long as the locknut and turnbuckle break loose it's a 10 minute job. If the turnbuckle is stuck try the other adjustment nut. A jack would make it easier, but not necessary. Just don't over tighten it or the shoes will drag. And no you don't need someone who knows brake systems very well. Just some beer, vice grips and some open end wrenches. Brake__BR__file.pdf

I just found a Highlander wheel and tried it on my RX330. I am sad to report that it does not work. The rim hits the caliper..... Tirerack has 18" wheels and Witerfire tires in stock for $832. Not dirt cheap, but an option.

Should be able to get it here: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ind...5&year=2000 My latch does not spring back correctly when I open the hatch. I have to push the latch back to make it work correctly. What is yours doing?

My wife's RX now has 92k miles and has had oil/oil filter change every 3k (or 3 months) with Castrol dino 5-30W oil. Removed valve cover and engine is clean as a whistle. Why should I change to synthetic at this point? I'm not arguing against synthethic, just don't see any reason to make the change. You live in a cold climate so wait until it's 5 or 10 degrees outside. Leave a quart of dino and a quart of synthetic outside over night. In the morning pop them open and pour. You will never use dino again.