R.Holmes

It sounds like you have a loose connection from the radio to the antenna. Mine ('98 ES 300) did that to when I first got it. Tracked it down to the connection behind the radio. Does it cut off while sitting still? or only when you are driving, like over rough or bumped roads? The two most common connections are at the radio and the back window where the antenna is connected.

Do as VFM suggests. bad connections on the bulb sockets will cause this problem. make sure the new bulbs are seated good. I have seen new bulbs be bad also. As VMF said, make sure all lights are on when brakes are applied and when headlamps are on. Just one bulb being out will cause the indicator to show as bad lamp.

Awesome, thanks so much that helps big time!! I had a question about the mileage too. Should i go by miles or time? People say every 3000 miles or 3 months but 3 months seems awfully short and if i don't hit the 3000 miles should i still get my oil changed? I change my oil myself but I split the difference between the 3000 mile and the recommended 7.500 and change every 5000. including the filter. I have done this ever since I started driving 50 yrs ago. Never had a mechanic change my oil. I am in So. Calif. In the winter I use 5-30 and summer 10-30. My car has 150,000 and doesn't use a drop of oil. Eventhough I didn't buy the car new. ( I put 85,000 on the car in the last 3 yrs.) changing oil at regular intervals is very important in keeping it running good and extending its life.

My son is a detailer and he uses "WSR1 Bio-Clean" Water Stain Remover. Manufactured by C.R. Laurence Co. It is easy to use and gives excellent results. thanks, I'll look it up. --Isn't this the same stuff as CLR? No, this is C.R.L. It is made strickly for waterspot removal on glass. My brother-in-law's windows and windshield was as bad as it could ever get. You couldn't see out when the sun hit it or when it was raining or see at night. This stuff made the glass look like new with no waterspots left at all.

My son is a detailer and he uses "WSR1 Bio-Clean" Water Stain Remover. Manufactured by C.R. Laurence Co. It is easy to use and gives excellent results.

Climate control systems use many methods to keep the car temperature comfortable. The reason the compressor goes on at lower temperatures is to control the humidy of the air that blows out of the ducts. As an example: If the outside air temperature is 40 degrees with high humidy, and you have the climate control set to 70 degrees, the air blowing into the car will regulate the car to 70 degrees, but the humidty will also be much higher without the compressor running. When you have the climate control set to auto, it constantly regulates the interior air temperature, humidity, air flow speed and direction to give you optimum comfort. Another example: You'll notice that in cold, high humidy conditions, if you use the climate control without the compressor turned on you'll get fog(moisture) on the inside of the windows, even though the temperature is correct. At this point, turn on the compressor, and the fog will disappear. If the outside temperature is cold, and the humidity is low, then you can use this system without the compressor. Right on amf1932. Excellant reply and is so true. Best explanation for climate control.

check the EGR Vacuum Modulator. disconnect the vacuum hose and see if it gets worse or better. also the vsv switch for the acis. I changed these to fix my surging problem on my '98 ES300.

The cost for locks at the dealer here in Ca. is only $20. or many parts house has a set of locks that will fit for about the same price

"We ONLY guarantee the part will fit the vehicle listed in the description. If your vehicle was not originally equipped with the EXACT part listed, it is your responsibility to consult a dealer to see if it will fit your application." That is what originally brought the question to mind... Thanks, Marty You asked which radios were interchangeable? I was in the same situation a few months back. My friend owns a 97 ES300 and I have a 98. My friends radio went out and I picked up a used radio from a salvage yard out of a 99. We checked compatibility and the 99 was the improved radio and fit both my 98 and his 97 with no problems. I would suggest that you upgrade instead of downgrading.(Use a 99 radio in a 98, a 98 in a 97. not 97 in 97 or 98 in a 99) as far as the model #, I can't tell you. All I know is that the radios fit and work. I replaced my LCD which was much cheaper and easier to replace that replacing the radio. Good luck in locating cross-reference #'s

I do not know about the shifting problem but the rpm at 75 mph sounds about right. I have a 98 ES300 and I cruise between 70 and 80 all the time and my rpm's runs 2800 at 75 and 3000 at 80 and 32 to 3300 at 85. 55 mph is about 2000 rpm. Every car is different and performs different and doesn't mean that anything is wrong with it. I am not saying that you might not have a problem. This is only my thought Glad you enjoy your new ride. I love mine when I bought it 3 yrs. ago with 65000. now have 145000 and still running great.

I just put a set of BF Goodrich on my car and am very happy with the comfort and ride. BF Goodrich is made by Michelin.

Sounds like the IAC valve needs cleaning. Same symtoms. Thanks Holmes. What is IAC? Where it located and how to clean? Can i DIY? Really appreciated if i can DIY. The IAC Valve is (Intake Air Control) I don't know where it is located on the Is400 but I think that it is located about the same place on all models. On my 98 ES300, it is located just under the intake maniford between the engine and manifold. It is a easy DIY. There is a thread on the forum with detailed instructions. GoldenState Silver Sport has an excellent step by step info. Give him an e-mail or message and he will be more than happy to help you or point you to the right thread. I hope it is ok for me to mention other thread posters on the forum. If not please let me know. yidaitianjiaous> Search for the thread Step by Step instruction for IACV Good Luck and let us know if that fixed your problem

Sounds like the IAC valve needs cleaning. Same symtoms.

This sounds lilke the old familiar problem of cleaning the IAC Valve. Same symtoms.

I too use a cassette adapter to play my mp3 and it works great. BUT I had to return it for a replacement. The first one I bought did not work. I replaced it with the same brand and it workd fine and I enjoy my old time radio programs in MP3 and simulated stereo in my car.

Your problem is more than likely the IAC valve. What I think he means is to check the entire air induction system which includes the IAC valve, Maf valve, Egr, air filters and the entire induction manifold . Clean the IAC valve and you will be surprised at the results and will not probably need the AIR INDUCTION SERVICE. Good Luck!!

My friend, It sounds like the old familiar problem of the IAC valve. Find the thread in this forum about cleaning the IAC valve and you should be home free. It is a very simple procedure if you follow the instruction. Many on the forum has fixed this problem by cleaning this valve. If you can't find it, I will look for it for you. One of the members here wrote a detailed procedure for this problem. I will take a quick look see to find it. Just looked for the thread. It is the tread posted by GoldenStateSilverSport step by step instruction for IACvlave. Last posting yesterday. Good luck and I know you will have it. This fix cures 99% of the type of problem you are haveing.

My friend, It sounds like the old familiar problem of the IAC valve. Find the thread in this forum about cleaning the IAC valve and you should be home free. It is a very simple procedure if you follow the instruction. Many on the forum has fixed this problem by cleaning this valve. If you can't find it, I will look for it for you. One of the members here wrote a detailed procedure for this problem. I will take a quick look see to find it.

I usually let my car sit overnight then change oil and filter. Or I let it sit for a couple of hours, Or if I am in a hurry, I use geenie's suggestion of venting the engine (oil cap removed or dip stick pulled out) Or if I am in a BIG,BIG hurry, put a rag or something to absorb the oil under the filter as it is being removed.

The same goes from me also. I am near the Canyon Country fires. Was surrounded at one time by several fires but I am in no danger now that they have them under control.(Unless they flare up again)

did you ever discover the cause. I have exactly the same problem with my 400LS '91. Exactly. Been down all the same paths and am now looking at the computer. What did you find out? My '06 21k mile Silverado 2500HD did that. I called it a bouncing idle. Garage put a whole can of Throttle body cleaner through it and its back to normal. I bet it is a clogged IAC passage and the motor compensates for it by increasing the IAC metering, then backing it down, hence the bounce. I had no codes stored either. Sounds like the IAC valve needs to be cleaned or replaced.

No wax last 6 months here. I live in the Northeast and the longest I have gone with a wax is about 4 months (with CG5050). I also have Zaino Clear seal and is nice but overpimped and over priced. It is also nothing special here. I use Optimum ONR in the winters and it takes about 18 minutes. Just read this post and I would like to put my 2 cents worth. I live in Southern Cal. ( In the middle of where the fires are blazing) and my son owns and operates a mobil detailing business. I do my own detailing of my ES300 but use my son's equipment and products. When he started out, he researched different brand of products. He uses exclusively One Grand and Maguires products, and swears by them. It proves it because customers come to him from other detailers when they find out he uses only the best products and gets the greatest finishes. He details for several members of different antique car clubs (You know how picky they are) and would not use him if he did not use the best. "Results proves it" "ONE GRAND AND MAGUIRES" PS: When I wax and detail my car, it lasts 5 to 6 months. Calif. climate.

Mobil, Chevron, Shell 89 or 91. The quality of gas is less at the cheaper brands. Also more gas mileage with the better brands and higher octane rating. Try each brand and octane rating and measure the fuel mileage. I prefer Mobil or Chevron 89. I use 87 ARCO and Shell in my '98 ES300. Use other brands when absolutely neccessary. I have not seen any apprecialble gas mileage difference between different brands. However, using 89 or 91 lessens MPG. I get consistant average of 28 MPG highway and 26 city. Using 89 or 91 is higher octane with better performance (Quicker response) therefore, burning more gas. If you want a faster response from the gas pedal, use 89 or 91 but expect lower gas mileage, unless you are very, very light on the foot. I agree that you should use different brands and make your own decision. Note: This only applies to my car. It is well tuned and maintained to the point that when anything is not fuctioning the way I think it should, I fix it. Addition to previous quote. Driving conditions greatly effects gas mileage and if you have a heavy or light foot. Using AC also effects mileage.

Mobil, Chevron, Shell 89 or 91. The quality of gas is less at the cheaper brands. Also more gas mileage with the better brands and higher octane rating. Try each brand and octane rating and measure the fuel mileage. I prefer Mobil or Chevron 89. I use 87 ARCO and Shell in my '98 ES300. Use other brands when absolutely neccessary. I have not seen any apprecialble gas mileage difference between different brands. However, using 89 or 91 lessens MPG. I get consistant average of 28 MPG highway and 26 city. Using 89 or 91 is higher octane with better performance (Quicker response) therefore, burning more gas. If you want a faster response from the gas pedal, use 89 or 91 but expect lower gas mileage, unless you are very, very light on the foot. I agree that you should use different brands and make your own decision. Note: This only applies to my car. It is well tuned and maintained to the point that when anything is not fuctioning the way I think it should, I fix it.

You depreciate assets, not investments. The factory equipment is a depreciable asset. The money you spent purchasing the equipment is in investment in your business - presumably to increase or even maintain the efficiency of your factory output. But back to the original discussion: I just took my IS250 to the local Toyota dealership for the 10,000 mile service. I did it mainly because of the convenience (Toyota dealer was within walking distance of work vs 25 miles for the Lexus dealer). It cost me $69 as compared to the Lexus price of $230. They did everything except replace the cabin filter. That may be a good alternative for the people that want dealer documentation, but don't want to pay Lexus prices. Lucky you that you got a Toyota dealer to work on your Lexus. Eventhough a Lexus is a Toyota product, some Toyota dealers will not work on a Lexus. I was checking on the price to replace my timeing belt and water pump and went to the Toyota dealer and they flat out refused to work on my Lexus. Wouldn't even give me a quote or the time of day. Toyota prices are cheaper and for the same services including parts that are Lexus and Toyota comparable.