R.Holmes

I went OEM. Got them at wholesale price.

I have the chassis wiring diagram to my '98 ES300 and It does not show a remote to the amp. I do not have the radio schematic to the radio and amp themselves. This diagram is a general schematic of the wireing.

Unless the pads and rotors are special for the GS400, $600 is steep. I replaced my rotors and pads on my '98 ES300 for $300 out the door. I did the replacement myself. Peace of Cake to change. $200 for rotors and $100 for pads.

Firewalker: Very good suggestion! I never thought of the pressure release holds in the rotors. Never had to use them on my '98 ES300. Just a tap on the rotor with a hammer and mine just popped off.

Scott1956, as I mentioned before, if you are just replacing the rotors, it is not necessary to remove the hubs

The rotor comes off the hub and is most likely sturck. Try tapping the rotor with a hammer to break it loose from the hub.

so just wondering, was it the throttle control sensor, I am having the same exact problem My 99 ES300 has similar idle problem. When I tried to take off the throttle body to take apart the IAC, I stripped one of the 3 screws. So I was unable to complete. I did opened the electric coil and saw the solenoid rotor. But I did not see any hole or a way you can spread carb cleaner inside the IAC. How did you remove the solenoid without taking apart the IAC You just take off the coil and expose the solenoid rotor and when you rotate the rotor, it opens up the valve. Spray the cleaner there. Use the spray nozzle that comes with the cleaner. You can take off the vac hose to see the carbon come out. CAUTION!!! Don't loose the o-ring seal on the coil. If you replace the solenoid without that seal, you will have problems. I meant the coil not the solenoid

so just wondering, was it the throttle control sensor, I am having the same exact problem My 99 ES300 has similar idle problem. When I tried to take off the throttle body to take apart the IAC, I stripped one of the 3 screws. So I was unable to complete. I did opened the electric coil and saw the solenoid rotor. But I did not see any hole or a way you can spread carb cleaner inside the IAC. How did you remove the solenoid without taking apart the IAC You just take off the coil and expose the solenoid rotor and when you rotate the rotor, it opens up the valve. Spray the cleaner there. Use the spray nozzle that comes with the cleaner. You can take off the vac hose to see the carbon come out. CAUTION!!! Don't loose the o-ring seal on the coil. If you replace the solenoid without that seal, you will have problems.

I replaced my coolant with Dex-Cool and it is just as good as OEM. I have always used it with no problems. (Used in all my cars)

Sorry to hear about your bad luck!!! It sounds like to me that the dealership needs to replace their mechanics. I have heard about some bad experiences with dealers but I think you hit the jackpot!!! Make them correct everything that is wrong and contact toyota or Lexus main office and tell them what has happen to you and I am sure they will make it right. It has been my experience that a lot of mechanics and dealers tell you that you need a lot of extra things that you don't really need, just to dig deeper into your pockets.

I just replaced my struts on my 98 ES300, I believe the 99 RX 300 have the same chasis, with Monroe Sensa-Strut. I am very happy with the ride. My friend has a 97 ES300 and he replaced his with KYB's. We compared the ride and handling and we both agreed that my Monroes gave a smoother ride. For the heck of it, we went to the local Lexus dealer and drove a 99 ES 300 with fairly low mileage (80,000) which still had factory struts. My Monroes still had the smoother ride. So, in my opinion, the Monroe's gave a better ride. The KYB's and factory struts gave a more firmer and sporty ride. I guess it depends on what kind of ride you want. This is my opinion and preference only.

there is no need to remove the complete valve. Those four screws are a bear to remove!!!! Using an offset screwdriver won't do it. They are torqued so tight that an ordinary screwdriver only strips them. Just remove the two screws that hold the solenoid and remove the solenoid. Push in on the plunger,(moves just a little bit but can see it move) with your finger and spray carb. cleaner or a cleaner that drys fast, while plunger is depressed. Remove the vac hose going to the valve (Bottom) to see the carbon come out of the valve. That should do the trick. To tell you how tight those four screws are, I went to a wrecking yard and with the throttle assy. removed from the motor, I could not break those screw loose. even with penetrant oil. Screwdriver only stripped the screws. CAUTION Don't loose the o-ring on the solenoid when removing it.

If it breaks, it will not hurt anything but a ride home. #2 is why have you not changed it? You own a lexus man and for $395 change the belt! The car is WAY over the mileage along with time duration. Also what other things have you not done since "it runs good"? You insinuate that I do not take care of my Lexus?? I do all the maintainence on the vihicle. You asked what other things "I HAVEN'T" done? Haven't had to do much. Remember the old saying "If it is not broke, don't fix it" This has worked for me. I change the oil and filter every 5,000 miles, and air filter when needed,change the transmission fluid every 30,000, Major replacements or "fixes" replaced spark plugs, cleaned EGR valve, Cleaned IAC. "includeing the throttle assy. replaced struts, (Prematurelly) Changed brake pads when needed. and fix any other things that malfuction.Keep fluids at proper levels. Just drained and replaced coolant. Neighbor has a '97 Avalon with the same engine as mine.."Car has 200,000 miles with the same tilming belt and water pump" I was taugh at an early age to take care of my vihicles and they will take care of you. I will be 67 next month and all my cars have not "died" on me prematurely for lack of maintaince. PS: I am planning on replaceing the belt but not at $600 to $1000 that mechanics and the dealer want. ($395 is a bargain) in California.

I was just curious but has anyone experienced and actual timing belt failure or breakage and at what mileage? I have a '98 ES300 with 135,000 and the timing belt has never been changed. The car runs very quiet, no pinging, no squeaks, no indication that the water pump is going bad. Had the belt inspected and compared to a new belt and only difference was the glaze on the used belt. Was told by a mechanic that if a belt broke, there would not be any damage to engine on my model. Does anyone know for sure ? All I have to do if mine broke, is to replace the belt and re-time it. Haven't talked to dealer because I am sure they would say is REPLACE it. I do not drive hard in my car and it has lasted this many miles with little or no major problems. Just the normal maintaince. Has only been back to the dealer 1 time since bought and that was for an oil change by the previous owner.

You say that you drove it hard. How hard? Flooring it? How many miles on the car? Any of those things you mention can have an effect on performance. Could be an ejector malfuctioning but remote. Spark plugs misfireing? coil or wire breaking down? Or a combination? The computer detects all of these. If the car has a lot of miles and has not had preventive maintainence or little maintainence, these things can contribute to it's performance. !Removed! luck and post your results so that others can benefit. A fix for one car does not neccessarily mean it will fix another.

Just read your post. You said that you cleaned the EGR Valve. What did you clean it with? Cleaning the EGR or any of the components where the fumes from the cleaner can get to it, can trigger these codes. The o2 sensors are very sensitive and the residue from certain cleaners affect them to the point of triggering the codes. Clear the codes and give it time to dry out completely. I replaced my o2 sensors on another vihicle. No codes. Later cleaned the EGR valve and got the code for bad o2 sensor. Cleared the code and drove it. Code came back but I gave it some time to dry out real good and clearer the code again. This time ran without any codes. This is only a possibility of might have happened when you cleaned your EGR.

What are you replacing it with? Factory or after market? Radio and cd/changer are separate units. Radio or changer can quit working separately BUT changer will not work without the radio. Radio must be working to checkout the changer.. As far as changing them with factory, is very simple. Post to let us know why you are replacing them. Upon knowing, we can tell you how to go about it. Looking at the pioneer cg-c8303u from crutchfield, but, the modifications that are needed, they can't help with. The original factory radio lost it's display and it shuts down ocassionally. Sorry, but I am not familiar with that model. Just the factory OEM. Can help you with relpaceing that.

I have a 98 ES 300 and I need to replace the radio LCD. Could you please send me all of your details. Thanks a lot. Hey PIONEERSUBY, You have quit an audience for replacing the LCD or the radio in this post. Quit accurate too. I replaced my LCD a couple of months ago. PIECE OF CAKE!!! Anyone else who wants to do it, it is very easy to do and takes only a few minutes.

How much are they? Thanks Hello, I have a 1998 GS300 with the Pioneer radio - same problem burned out display, but also some of the buttons stick and the power knob came off. I've seen used units on ebay for about $299 - can this be fixed or am I better off just buying a whole new unit? Thanks much! scott802@yahoo.com I have an ES300 1998 and I think that all the radios are about the same eccept the dash mount configureation. The displays are replaceable. I just replaced mine. I bought the display from RadioMan in San Diego and replaced it myself. You can also send him the radio and he will replace it. I am sure there are other repairmen or someone who can replace it for you. The display cost me $150. You can probably find it cheaper on E-Bay but because it was near me, I picked it up here.

You don't have to remove the IACV to clean it. Remove the vac hose and the two screws that hold the solenoid. Depress plunger in the valve and spray cleaner there. You should see the cleaner come out of where you removed the vac hose. NOTE! Yes. the bolts to the IAC are a bear to remove. Even with the throttle assy removed.

I am not familiar with the sc300 but check out "ES300 Starts ,then Dies" post. Could very possible be the IAC Valve. Very similer symtoms. When you say that it stops and you try to start it again, it just cranks and not start. Are you giving it a little gas when you try to start? If you are not giving it gas, try starting it by pressing the accelerator a bit and see if it starts and then stops when you let off the gas. If this happens, follow the cure in that post. Good luck and let us know what happens.

What are you replacing it with? Factory or after market? Radio and cd/changer are separate units. Radio or changer can quit working separately BUT changer will not work without the radio. Radio must be working to checkout the changer.. As far as changing them with factory, is very simple. Post to let us know why you are replacing them. Upon knowing, we can tell you how to go about it.

so just wondering, was it the throttle control sensor, I am having the same exact problem Clean or replace the IAC (Idle Air Control Valve). You can save yourself alot of money if you clean it yourself. No need to remove it to clean it. Disconnect the solenoid and the air hose connected to it and spray carburator of brake cleaner. The solenoid operates the valve so when removed, it exposes the plunger it operates. Depress the plunger with your finger and spray into it. You will see the carbon come out of where you removed the air hose. A good note to remember is that the control valve is a bear to remove and you have to use a lot of force to get the four screws that hold it. OR? remove the whole throttle assy to access the screws and remove it. THIS IS A LOT OF WORK !!!!!! I have a 98 ES300 and I cleaned it about 90,000 miles and I have 135,000 on it now. No problems since I cleane it. Did the same thing on my friends 2000 Camry. Dealer or Mechanic Cost to replace this valve about $400 to $500. My cost $2.98 Cost of a can of cleaner and about 30 to 45 minutes of my time.

I took it out a blew it out. Should I try to clean it with a liquid? If cleaning does not work, I'll replace it. Thanks for your help. I have heard you can dip it in rubbing alcohal then let it dry. But to be honest its a pretty cheap part so its probably worth it to just get a new one. Might help with MPG as well as performance. I think they sell refurbish ones, if you buy a refurb just make sure it comes with a warranty. J Same symtoms as my 98 ES300. Change the EGR Vacuum Modulator. Cleaning does no good. This solved my problem

try lubricating the throttle and foot pedal. Could be sticking when you last turn off the engine. Try tapping the foot pedal before you start the car to see if it does the same thing. Throttle may be sticking just enough that when the engine starts, the vibration kicks it back to idleing position.