paulo57509

You found a unicorn.

I too would lean towards OEM parts. But Toyota/Lexus doesn't provide a "kit". You have to buy each piece individually. If it's available. Phoenix Rack and Axle get mentioned a lot on Club Lexus. https://phoenixrackandaxle.com/ Give them a call. Their website appears broken.

Lexus reman gears are $600 (!!) I wonder if this shortage is due to lack of rebuildable cores? I seen this years ago with Raybestos master cylinders. They were actually selling new units as rebuilds, just to build up a stock of rebuildable cores.

Why did you rebuild the steering gear in the first place? You have access to AllData; I'll attach the reassembly procedure from the Lexus service manual for additional reference. SR-48 Power Steering Gear - Reassembly.pdf SR-3 Power Steering Fluid - Bleeding.pdf

If you're not versed in troubleshooting = hard pass. Electrical problems = hard pass.

If I were to guess, it's coming from the water pump weep hole.

There are pages and pages of codes depending on what system you're scanning. You can just Google the code(s) and it'll tell you what they mean, provided they're generic and not manufacturer specific

Go to Autozone or any other DIY parts place and rent a cooling system tester.

Check the lights in the front. I wouldn't have guessed that the fronts are connected to the same failure sensing circuit. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-3rd-gen-2001-2006/905427-has-anyone-by-passed-the-lamp-failure-in-an-04-ls-430-a.html#post10392051

8 ----- 7 6 ----- 5 4 ----- 3 2 ----- 1 Front

Most likely there are no repair kits available for a 34 year old car. However, there still might be OEM parts still available but it's going to be hit/miss. Here's a link to a Lexus dealership in CA that I use, showing the sunroof for a 1990 LS. Scroll down below the diagram to the parts list; there are some parts that "might" be still available. Inquire before ordering parts. YOur local Lexus dealer should have access to the same diagrams/parts lists. https://parts.lexusofpleasanton.com/a/Lexus_1990_LS-400/_65510_6729510/ROOF-PANEL--BACK-WINDOW-GLASS/431410-6104.html?assemblySearchGuid=736FCD75-853D-40A0-A65F-77FB025C8147 Having the OEM part number will allow you to search for any parts you may need. Here are a few part search sites that I have used. I will admit that for old car parts, success has been very limited. FWIW, the dealer ship in the above link uses Parts Voice. https://www.partsvoice.com/ https://www.rearcounter.com/ You can also search outside of the US thru Amayama. https://www.amayama.com/en There's always the pick-and-Pull yards, but used parts are sometimes more worn than what you're trying to replace.

Programming the button functions shouldn't be this hard. Are you trying to program a factory Lexus remote or an aftermarket key? Does your FOB have one button or three buttons? Read thru the attachment. Hopefully, this will help. L-EL003-96.pdf

The rain sensor is attached to the inside of the windshield behind the rear view mirror. I doubt this will help, but I would try cleaning the outside of the windshield in front of the sensor. I would would go back to the windshield installer with your complaint.

Hopefully, you have the correct programming procedure. In case you need to confirm; From TIS, Technical Service Information, EL003–96 (apologies for the difficult to read formatting): WIRELESS DOOR LOCK SERVICE INFORMATION AND DIAGNOSIS Page 11 of 13 KEY REGISTRATION (1995 AND LATER MODELS): Set initial conditions: Key out of ignition Driver’s door open and unlocked All other doors closed and locked Registration Procedure: NOTE: Perform all steps with no more than a five second interval between steps. 1. Insert key into ignition for 1 second and remove. 2. Cycle (lock and unlock = 1 cycle) the driver’s interior power door lock switch 5 times (1 second in each position). 3. Close and reopen driver’s door. 4. Cycle the driver’s interior power door lock switch 5 times (1 second in each position). 5. Insert key into ignition and cycle the ignition on and off: One time to add a new code. Two times to add a new code and erase all previously stored codes. Three times to check how many codes are currently registered. 6. Remove key from ignition. Receiver should respond by cycling the door locks a corresponding number of times: One time to add a new code. Two times to add a new code and erase all previously stored codes. One to four times (slowly) to indicate how many codes are registered (end). NOTE: If no response is given, start over at the beginning of this procedure. 7. Press the transmitter button (any button on fob type transmitters) for 1 second. NOTE: Receiver should respond by cycling door locks once. If no response is given, start over at the beginning of this procedure. 8. Close and reopen driver’s door. 9. Press the transmitter button for 1 second. Receiver should respond by cycling door locks: One time to confirm operation is complete. Two times to signal that the code is already registered.

The Lexus service manual for both of these conditions, essentially ends up as "replace the changer". You can have the unit repaired, if you can find someone that does this kind of work (and has parts) and if you can DIY remove the unit and send it in. I've used Willman's Electronics in Garland, Texas in the past. They couldn't repair the factory Alpine in my old Acura Legend (lack of available replacement parts), but they did have a later model that was a plug-and-play. It wouldn't hurt to contact them for advice. IIRC, they charge a flat fee for repairs; you pay for shipping to and from. Sound (no pun intended), professional advice is worth an email. http://www.willmanselectronics.com/default.htm

I use this site's color code chart: https://www.automotivetouchup.com/touch-up-paint/lexus/2002/ls430/

I think Toyota tool kit is 09268−45012 EFI Fuel Pressure Gauge. It comes with the gauge, fittings (banjo and banjo bolts), and hoses. It appears that this is used on most all Toyota FI engines. My guess is you're looking at $$$. You can kluge together a pressure test gauge. It's a lot of work for one-time use. 1) You'll need a banjo fitting of the proper banjo bolt size and hose size that will accept a flared fitting hose: 2) A double banjo bolt of the proper thread size: 3) Copper seal washers of the proper bolt size. 4) A high pressure gauge. 5) Hose to connect the banjo bolt to the gauge.

There might be a shortcut method, but once you get the instrument panel out: There might be a way to get to the register it by removing the gauge cluster; I would try this first.

Look in the Certification sticker on the door jamb for the color code. The "C" will be the body color code. The "TR" will be the trim color code. I believe the TR code is what you're looking for.

Before firing the parts cannon, I would check the ECU for capacitor leakage. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/656360-all-my-crazy-lexus-issues-solved-ecu-leaking-capacitor.html

The 2001-2006 LS430 alternator will work, with some minor modifications. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/807894-1998-2000-ls400-alternator-upgrade.html

Flowmaster is the worst for noise level and annoying drone.

Typically, a hot exhaust means a lean mixture. However, a rich mixture will also make a catalytic converter run hot. I'm going to assume that you've never opened up the ECU and inspected the capacitors for leakage. All LS400's are prone to this. In 1997 and earlier models, the problem is extremely common. Click the link for information overload. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/656360-all-my-crazy-lexus-issues-solved-ecu-leaking-capacitor.html

I don't think that motor is available anymore. It is also part of the bracket. I have heard that lubricating these motors will kill them. Which probably won't matter if it's already dead.

Yes. There are two motors; tilt and telescopic. The image is of a 1998 column.