paulo57509

What did you do to solve the problem? It might help someone else in the future.

You have a Celsior so it may be normal. It's not normal on a NA LS. My '98 has a relay in that position. Here is the circuit that contains the Engine Main Relay: From factory 1998 Lexus LS400 Electrical Wiring Diagrams Double-click the image so you can see it. Essentially, the relay powers the electric cooling fan and the front seat heater (if equipped). This relay doesn't appear to run thru any of the many ECU's that an LS has. That's why you won't see any trouble codes. A previous owner probably removed the relay as an expedient to taking the time to troubleshoot whatever the issue it was causing. Quick check: Does the cooling fan come on? If you have heated seats, do they warm?

My sincere apologies for steering you wrong. Looking back, I did remove the cam gears but left the VVTi phasers in place when I removed the cams. I did this a few years ago. Talk about a fading memory.

Did you get the cap off?

The cam plugs are sealed in place by FIPG; the top half of the plug is sealed to the cam bearing, the lower half of the plug is sealed to the cylinder head. You cannot pry the plugs out because they have a lip on the inside. When the bearing cap is pulled, they will either come out with the cap or stay with the head.

You don't have to remove the timing belt and remove the belt sprockets. The cam gears are these and you can try gently between them and the cap: What's probably hanging you up are these two plugs: They're sealed in place with FIPG; one half to the head and the other half to the cap. When I removed the cams to replace the seals behind the cam sprockets, the plugs stayed with the head. I did remove them and re-sealed them during reassembly.

This is what a dealer parts catalog shows; 90-93 use the same cable. https://parts.lexusofpleasanton.com/p/Lexus_1991_LS-400/CABLE-SUB-ASSEMBLY---SPIRAL/63176033/8430650070.html Part is NLA but at least you have a part number to begin your search.

To remove the front bearing cap, you need to break it free from the FIPG. But you need to do this without prying on the cap/head mating surface. IIRC, I did it by gently prying between the cap and the cam gears. Try to pry straight up, a little at a time until it breaks the FIPG seal. Do you have the service manual for reference? If not, see the attachments - just pick out the pertinent steps. You need to clean off the FIPG completely (see image) and only apply it where specified (see FSM). I used razor blades (don't gouge the aluminum) and green Scotchbright to remove the FIPG. Don't use power tools - you don't want to remove aluminum, just the FIPG. The washers under the four cap bolts (shown above) are seal washers. These need to be replaced and can only be sourced from the dealer. Because these four bolts have smaller shank diameters than standard bolt, seal washers sourced from an industrial supply house will not seal properly. The ID of the Toyota seal washers have a smaller diameter that works with these bolts. There are also round plugs bonded in place with FIPG at the ends of the camshaft bores. Might be a good idea to remove, clean and reseal these. EM-33 Cylinder Head - Removal.pdf EM-57 Cylinder Head - Installation.pdf

I believe you can tell by the electrical wiring harness/plug on top of the front strut towers. TBH, I wouldn't want adaptive suspension. Especially on an old LS. Replacement parts (if you can find them) are crazy expensive. When the adaptive suspension begins to have issues, most just install conversion struts that eliminate the adaptive function.

Read thru the post in this link. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/656360-all-my-crazy-lexus-issues-solved-ecu-leaking-capacitor.html

Because the VVTi engine is an interference design, you need to be really careful about rotating the crankshaft and cams around with the timing belt off or if the old belt was removed with the marks mis-aligned. To confirm, the sequence of events as you described are: You confirmed that the crankshaft timing mark and the camshaft timing marks were all aligned with their respective reference marks. You failed to rotate the crankshaft 50-degrees (timing mark now pointing at the idler pulley bolt). You then removed the timing belt. Now the camshaft pulleys do not align with their marks (a few teeth off). Failing to do No. 2 above shouldn't be a deal, provided you didn't willy-nilly start rotating the crank and cams around. Edit: did you remove the crankshaft pulley? Installing the new timing belt with the crank at 0-degrees and the camshaft marks lined up, you should be OK. Moving the cam pulleys a few teeth either way should also be fine. Just make sure you thread the new timing belt on per the Lexus service manual. You want the timing belt slack to end up on the tensioner pulley belt run. You confirm valve timing by rotating the crankshaft (with the belt and tensioner installed), two revolutions. The timing marks should again line up. DO NOT rotate the crankshaft CCW. Be aware for any interference when rotating the crankshaft (it helps to have the spark plugs removed).

It's not the drive gear but a good alternative. Tanin is a good company to deal with. https://taninautoelectronix.com/product/1990-1992-lexus-ls400-mechanical-odometer-assembly/

I would use them. Just check the gap (but don't attempt to adjust) to confirm they're .043" before installing them.

Looks like you need Lexus P/N 81615-87705. They look to be still available. https://parts.lexusofpleasanton.com/p/Lexus_1991_LS-400/SOCKET-WIRE-SUB-ASSEMBLY-FRONT-TURN-SIGNAL-LAMP-BODY-SPOT-LAMP/63367916/8161587705.html You don't have to buy it from the link above. I don't know why this isn't a more common, "get it anywhere" part.