adam1991

One thing that keeps me from buying Toyota is that in this town, the dealer nearest me is a serious rip-off on parts. One thing he does is provide his own internal part numbers on quotes and invoices, so that you can't go elsewhere to get a competitive quote on parts. No sir, no Toyota part numbers anywhere on his paperwork. That one *really* honked me off. If his mechanic does some work to find the problem and he says the fulcrum widget costs $430, I have to do some serious legwork if I want to go source the part elsewhere and not pay his $430. Dealerships are independent businesses, and can run their businesses any way they want. This guy chooses to be pond scum. We have other dealers in town, for other makes, who are honest--believe it or not. (Remember this next time someone says "dealers are by definition scum, go find an independent shop"--the dealership IS an independent shop.)

You almost passed out???? Jesus, man, take a deep breath and calm down. It's only a CAR, fer Chrissakes. Bumper covers are the easiest thing to repair. It costs very little and takes very little time. You'd be amazed if you knew. Just go get it fixed. It's just a plastic bumper cover. If things like this are going to make you pass out, maybe you shouldn't be buying new cars, especially expensive ones. Or at least, don't take them out of the garage. These things happen, and a car is just an inanimate object made of metal and plastic and rubber--all of which is easily fixed.

The best value that will be available will be a two year old 05 Infiniti M45. It will be the same style as today's car (which I love), it will be an "old style" model, the last year before the 06 model changeover, and it is and will be an entirely unappreciated car--which will drive the price down even further.

My experience is that German cars are an utter blast to drive--but they're poorly made and poorly engineered, AND poorly supported in this country. Japanese engineering is, for the everyday driver, heads above anything the Germans are doing. And, from what I can tell the Germans should be utterly embarrassed about their electrical systems.

This won't help you much now, but you've just reinforced my choice to use the AAA Plus service for an extra few bucks a year. Pays for 100 miles of towing, with any excess at $2/mile. That would have put you back only $160 instead of $360. Sorry to hear about the situation. You know, many years ago I had a coolant hose come off while I was driving down the highway; no loss of power, but otherwise the same "white smoke everywhere" look to the situation.

Once you've had black, you'll never go back...

That shop's alignment rack could very well be misaligned itself. I went through this with my Honda dealer for a few months, until they finally had it checked out. They were sending cars out with a major left drift, even though the machine's readings were correct. Once the alignment rack people came in and recalibrated it, all was well. Try another shop.

I can only say this: a couple years ago I bought a Jetta (VR6 5 speed, natch). Once in it, I noticed--for the entire time I had it, about 6-9 months--that every Jetta on the road seemed to be driven by a woman. It sure seemed I was the only man in a Jetta. I kept screaming to myself, IT'S A CHICK CAR! (This didn't diminish the car in any way for me; no, German engineering and lack of attention to detail did that just fine, thank you very much. I dumped the Jetta for an Accord, and never looked back. But then, I'm a Honda guy from way, way back...but I digress...) Fast forward to December 25 last year, when the ES300 found its way into my driveway with a big red bow on it. After getting the transmission rebuilt (SURPRISE! I think maybe Toyota has a weak spot in the trannies, but who's going to argue at 125K miles), I've driven the ES exclusively--and have never, ever, ever noticed the "chick car" thing. So I'm sensitive to it, very aware of the concept from my Jetta days, and the ES simply does not stand out as such in any way.

I removed the A-pillar trim in my 94, to wire up a microphone for the cell phone. It's dirt simple; just pull and you'll see. If you have a later model with airbags in there, leave it alone. I hardwired my Val1 into my Accord, and now that warm weather is here I expect to do the same in my ES. I'm keeping an eye out for a suitable location, but haven't really seen a good one that I like. (Man, that Accord was perfect for the add-ons that I like to do...)

Where did you get the dash kit and wiring harness? Which head unit did you install? I'd like to do this, but interfacing with the factory amp is an issue. How did you get around it? Did you not bother with an amp interface? Did you just hook your speaker outputs directly to the factory wire harness? Or did you hook RCAs out of the head unit into the factory harness somehow? Inquiring minds want to know. Physically, this looks like an easy install--if one can interface with the factory amp. I've not found out how to do that yet...

Use only the Toyota/Lexus brand stuff that's recommended for your transmission. Nowadays it's the Type IV. When it's cold, you'll find the car not wanting to shift but instead wanting to stay in gear and keep the revs up. That's Toyota's way of warming up the engine quicker. My 94 ES does it, and I had a 93 Previa that did it. But note that when you do shift out of park, it goes right into gear--right? If, however, the transmission takes a long time to shift from park into D or R when it's cold--that's a failing transmission. Also a failur indicator is a very long slide from disengaging one gear and engaging the next. If you feel a shudder during this move from gear to gear, like you're going over a long set of rumble strips--that's a failing transmission.

It's called "siphoning" and it uses the siphon effect.

Don't laugh at things like "bolt assembly" problems. Honda had an issue a couple years ago where the front end subframe was bolted on a little too far to one direction, causing a drift to the left. Their solution? Thinner bolts at the front of the subframe assembly, and a large lever. The tech uses the lever to shove the assembly over just a hair and tighten it down in a new location, a location the older, thicker bolts didn't allow for. Things happen in a manufacturing facility. Good manufacturers make it right to the customer.

This is a forum for free thought, and you know my thoughts. Too many people buy the $10 item that calls itself Product A, just so they can say "Look--I have Product A!!" when that's just a knockoff of the real Product A. People *want* to believe that just because it says so on the package, it must be true. You're here in a Lexus forum. I don't understand that, because Hyundai makes a PERFECTLY acceptable alternative to Lexus cars, don't you think? I mean, why would anyone spend this much money on a freaking car when you could spend 1/3 as much and get "an alternative to the pricier (and needlessly said better) Lexus. It does have adequate features and it gets you from point A to point B, though it may not be the best". Quite frankly, I disagree that the Bel is really an alternative to the Val1, much like the Hyundai isn't really an alternative to the Lexus. While they share some features and both purport to do many of the same things, the Hyundai isn't an alternative.

I received my 125K miles 94 ES on Christmas day, and it arrived with the whining noise that I hoped was just a belt. Nope; a week later it showed itself: transmission. $2350 for a complete rebuild. FWIW, the engine appears bulletproof and the car rides smoothly. It was worth the transmission work.

I think what Skippy meant was "why buy a Lexus when you can buy a Hyundai". For the same reason you buy Lexus, that's why you buy Valentine 1. For the same reason people buy Hyundais, is why they buy lesser radar detectors. "It's just as good."

People confuse "how much does it cost to acquire" with "economical" or "value". Just because something is cheaper to buy, doesn't make it more economical or a better value. The situation is exacerbated by marketing people who advertise their cheapest and least-feature laden product as their "value" product--when in fact it has much LESS value than their next up product. Printers are a great example. In general, the lower the price of acquisition, the higher the cost to operate it. The printer manufacturers aren't stupid; they're not in the charity business. If you want to pay only $100 for the printer, you'll pay out the wazoo for the supplies. But if you spend $20K on the printer, you'll get a heckuva price on supplies and maintenance. It's simply a matter of running the numbers for your use. You may save $100 now on the price of acquiring the unit if you buy a Bel, but what does that do to your chances of getting a $100+ ticket compared to spending $100 more on a Val1 up front? Get the Val1. There is no other. And DON'T CONFUSE PRICE WITH VALUE.

See my previous posts on my very recent transmission rebuild. Part of Aamco's diagnostic service, after they've done an external inspection and found nothing wrong there, is to drop the transmission and open it up to look at it. At that point they know exactly what the repair cost will be. They charge $400 for this service, if you end up not having them repair it. That covers removing the transmission and re-installing it. (I had them repair it.) While they were in there, we looked at the rear main seal and found that it was just beginning to leak a little bit. Well, while you're in there, go ahead and fix that, I said. The part was $32, and the labor was $68--for a total of $100. I'm thinking $500 is about what this job should cost, then, and that $800-$900 is high. You might find yourself a local Aamco and see what they say. After all, they remove and re-install transmissions every day.

You can flush it out. Find a shop that has a Motor Vac, a product by Snap On.

Mine was indeed the worst case scenario; it was rebuilt entirely. $2350 plus tax. I also had them do the rear main seal while they were in there; that was another $100 exactly, part and labor. Included in this was the tow from the Lexus dealer to the Aamco shop; they pay the tow if you have them do the work. (The Lexus dealer had told me "yep, you need a new one; rebuilt tranny, $2500; labor, $850; rear main seal plus labor, $200; plus tax". Thank you sir, may I have another.) I have no qualms about how my local Aamco treated me, nor about how the job was (apparently) done. They took me back to see my tranny in pieces, and to see the rebuild kit. The guy who was doing the work impressed the hell out of me; he was kinda young but very clean, very knowledgeable, and very well spoken. That place was a busy place, let me tell you. It had been at that same corner in my neighborhood since the year after I was born. From the looks of all the different cars they had in there, old and new, it seemed every manufacturer was represented in there. Funny story: they tell me it's ready, so I go and get it and drive it off the lot. 1/4 mile later the check engine light came on. I turned around and drove back, and ended up letting them have it for another day. Turns out that the tranny had been failing gradually, and the computer was watching it and adjusting for it. Day to day, the computer was getting used to it and not seeing enough of a change to trigger the light. But when the new tranny went in, the computer saw a *huge* difference between what had been installed and what was now installed--so it triggered the light. They checked everything out and cleared the code, and that was that. Part of their service is a check up a week or two later, to make sure everything's seated and tightened and no leaks. The $2350 included a 12 month/12K mile warranty. They also have 36/36 and lifetime warranties (that gets expensive!). Lexus is a box shop; they just drop in a rebuilt unit. Plus, how often do they get the experience? Probably not often. Aamco does this all the time, plus they're happy to fix what's wrong and save what's not, if possible. He said the price history on that transmission repair over the past couple of years is around $1900. I also needed the valve assembly, which bumped it up another $250, plus incidentals. Like I said, mine got entirely rebuilt, really. They reused the case and the gearsets and the differential, and replaced everything else. As for the sludge problem, I don't know and I'm trying very hard not to think about that. Anyone want to buy a 34K mile 2000 Honda Accord EX 5 speed, complete with factory warranty through July 22, 2007? It's in my garage, and I need to get rid of it now...

Where did you find a harness to wire everything together? I can't find one; the only solution I've found is to hack into the factory wires themselves, and I don't want to do that. You probably need something like this to go between speaker outs of your head unit and input of your amp: http://tinyurl.com/2o3w7

Christmas day saw a 94 ES dropped in my driveway, red bow and everything. 125K miles on it. Lived in Virginia all its life, then it came here. A week and a half later we get our first cold snap (30 degrees). Transmission fails. Aamco's diagnosis: just general "not been taken care of". They rebuilt it; even the electronic valve assembly needed replacing. (The giver of this particular Christmas gift paid for it, bless his heart.) I go back over the maintenance history of the car, and find that for the last two years of its life it didn't go to the Lexus dealer like before; no, it went to the corner Shell station. Twice they did a "complete transmission fluid change" complete with some sort of additive "for longer life". I'm pretty sure Goober just pulled whatever red stuff he had off the shelf and dumped it in, then threw in some Motor Honey for good luck. Either that, or they never touched it but still charged the $35. Whatever. Now it's great. Man, what a strong motor. Anyway, just a data point regarding 120K mile ES 300s.

Rich, When I called Crutchfield a few weeks ago about putting a new head unit in my 94, he said there wasn't any way to adapt the output of the head unit to the factory amp. I was puzzled, but took him at face value. I mean, I've done this on a Bose system in a Jetta, fer Chrissakes; it shouldn't be that difficult. What's this OEM-2 adapter?

I got my 94 as a Christmas gift, with 125K on the clock. The transmission must have been well on its way out (nobody knew) because with the first really cold snap two weeks later, there it went. Aamco rebuilt it for $2350, and that included EVERYTHING--torque converter, valve assembly, everything. It's really brand new, and it drives like it, too. Now that the tranny is new, I see how strong the motor is and I think it's ready to go.