GDixon

I have a 2008 that has the same hesitation. Someone a while ago suggest that you "blip" the gas pedal while coasting to convince the transmission to engage. I eventually got used to it. The dealership service department shrugged their collective shoulders and said that the trasmission was just that way.

Glad the post provided some assistance with the hitch installation. Just about every answer to a Lexus question can be found on this site if the correct search is done. The vast majority of people here are very helpful.

Did you check the fuse box for a blown fuse? Sometimes that accidentally happens on an install. If a ground wire is just slightly touched by a hot wire it will blow a fuse in an instant. After the fuse is verified to be OK then another check might be to investigate the wiring harness where the hitch's electric wire connects by the driver's side wheel in the cargo area. Use a 12V test light to see if the pigtail in the car's wiring harness works correctly with the test light. For instance, with the turn signal on, try different sockets to see if one of them lights up. Make sure the test light has a good ground. Also try it with the brake light on. If the test light will not light up then you have a warranty issue with Lexus and it shouldn't cost a cent to get it fixed. If the test light glows then plug in the hitch wire and try the receptacles that are on the hitch. That should diagnose where the problem lies. Having a hybrid or not shouldn't influence this trailer light problem.

Best deal I've heard of on a genuine Toyota/Lexus RX hitch. From other posts the trailer towing aspect of the RX pleases all. Haven't seen one complaint.

On the RX, the plastic frame that holds the filter has an arrow molded into it on the outside along the edge. It is difficult to see because both the arrow and frame are black. The replacement filter also has an arrow printed on it. Line up the arrows going in the same direction and you are done. Hope your model works the same way. Lexus seems to try to make some of the simpler components interchangeable to a point.

The top nut and thread are the usual right hand type. The bottom nut and thread are left-handed thread. Hold the middle nut in place that is welded to the shaft (hold with a wrench or vice-grips) and then loosen the top and bottom nut - remember the bottom nut is left-handed thread so will loosen the "wrong" way. Back both top and bottom nuts off at least 1/2 inch. Then use the middle nut to screw the top shaft into the top receptacle thus shortening it. That would be clockwise if looking from the nut and along the shaft. Since the bottom thread is left handed it will shorten the bottom as the top thread shortens. Tighten the two nuts and that is it. Measure the distance between the end nuts before you start and write it down. Then measure the distance after the adjustment. The measured distance between the nuts should be about 1 inch less. In other words, the nuts are closer by 1 inch. Look at the picture again at the bottom of the first page of this discussion. (Click on it to make it larger.) You can see the threads and the direction they need to travel to shorten the shaft. Also the direction the end nuts need to turn to travel toward the center of the shaft and thus be loosened. The nuts on each end are only there to lock in the adjustment after you are finished !Removed! in the shaft to make it shorter. No tape is needed. LexKid used it because he took off the whole assembly and just taped the adjusting arm to the frame in the position that he wanted. Don't use that technique.

The link above was just updated with more detailed information about adjusting the headlights.

I wouldn't recommend doing what LexKid did unless you are an accomplished mechanic. There is a picture of the adjusting lever in the last post of page 1 of this thread. Loosen the nuts on each end of the center shaft. Then turn the center shaft with the center welded nut to make the thread area shorter (one thread is left handed). Tighten up the two end nuts and you are done. My center shaft was adjusted about an inch shorter to make the correct headlight alignment. Be sure to check the alignment pre and post adjustment on a wall with tape at the top of the line of light. If drivers flash their lights at you at night then there is a problem and the shaft should be made longer. The nuts are metric. The end nuts are 11 mm and the middle one is 10 mm if I remember correctly. Adjustable small wrenches would work also. A vice-grip could be used on the center nut if it is hard to turn or won't hold still while you loosen the two end nuts. Soaking the nuts and threads with WD-40 or some other penetrating lubricant first will help. I didn't find the work space "tiny" at all so I hope we are talking about the same thing. Asking if a lift is needed but stating that you already tried to adjust the lever makes me suspicious that some communication is lacking. No lift is needed depending on your size. Driving the passenger side rear wheel up on a 2x6 piece of wood will give a bit more room. Driving it up onto a curb will give lots of room for the adjustment. A floor jack or even the Lexus jack is nice because the wheel droops down and the adjusting lever is somewhat more accessible. Be sure to use jack stands if you use this method.

You or a friend with a couple of small wrenches could adjust the beams to be higher. Just read this post. My advice is to not mess with the headlight adjusting screws but rather adjust the lever on the passenger's side rear swing arm. An independent garage can do it for 30 minutes labor if you ask nicely. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...mp;#entry265503

And of course all of our insurance rates will plunge inversely proportional to the price of gas! :lol:

Someone turned the sound off. Try this post for directions for turning it on or off. If the procedure doesn't work you may have a bad component. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...ic=42058&hl You want the odometer to read "b-on".

2008 RX 350 craps out at 111 mph. Would not go past that despite several attempts. Driving a top-heavy SUV in that speed range is not advised despite the fact that the ride was smooth, noiseless, and didn't feel much different than 80 mph. Nevada desert back road, no traffic - but it was open range. All of us would have been hamburger if one of those cattle had wandered onto the highway.

The fifth and sixth pictures in the second link shows shows where the connection is located behind the driver's side wheel well. You can see the wire from the hitch coming out of the large rubber gasket that is molded to the hitch wire. Also the white connector can be seen taped to the car's wiring harness. Install the gasket in the large hole and then untape the white pigtail from the car's wiring harness and plug in the hitch. There is a very little difference in the distance from the end of the wire that comes out of the large rubber gasket and the car's plug-in. Install the gasket and hold the wire from the gasket at about 80 degrees toward the front of the car. It should just reach the required connector. If you don't have the white connector on the car's wiring harness then it may not have the "towing prep" package.

Here is a post from today that has a picture of the inside hitch wiring connection near the driver's side wheel well (near the bottom of the post). I taped the hitch wire to the harness just in case there might be a way for it to jiggle loose. It is not really necessary but I didn't want to have to tear out the cargo area again. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...mp;#entry316848

Here is a post on the same subject. No ball mount was included on mine either. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...mp;#entry254728

This particular study is incomplete and has not been updated since 2000. Thanks for the information however.

See if this post helps. The third entry has a .PDF file of the installation procedure and the location of the wire connector. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...mp;#entry254728

Try searching this site for "drilled rotors" or "slotted rotors". There are many posts and many opinions on the subject.

Rya, How about starting a new thread on this issue. Something like "Rya's big golf adventure" or your choice. The old tread just doesn't go with your recent experiences. After all of this build-up the big golfing day should be approaching. Keep the updates coming. Pulling your clubs out of a Lexus should start the testosterone battle with your playing partners right in the parking lot.

Try eBay. The genuine Lexus (Toyota) part is just under $300 plus shipping. It fits perfectly and the wiring is included. Some people have had troubles with off-brands, especially the wiring aspect. Search this forum for feedback.

Check out this post for in-depth information. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...mp;#entry254728

Score another one for Lexus service. By posting the positive results you are helping the Lexus marque. Stories like yours make people glad to be Lexus owners.

Before you change the oil take the replacement filter into an auto parts store and buy a filter wrench that fits. If you have the insert type with the permanent cannister try searching this site for the correct size. It should be the same as the one used on the RX350. Assenmacher makes them. You might search this site for your specific application. http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/asttoy640.html

Buy a 350 and skip the nonsense. Just apply the money you save on the add-ons to the 350 or, even better, the F.

Start a new thread devoted to the subject. I used to shoot sporting clays, skeet, and trap, occasionally competitively, so there may be others on this site with an interest. It got too expensive and didn't involve as much exercise as golf and upland hunting. Now there are wads, powder, once-fired AAs, and a couple of reloaders in my garage rafters. Many things for the other shooting sports as well. The initial investment of a quality O/U and all of the reloading stuff is considerably more expensive than golf. Women do shoot, some very well, but it is an entirely different social situation than golf. Beer drinking and cliques of shooters are quite common. Additionally, it would be rare in a corporate board meeting to advocate a friendly round of sporting clays vs. a friendly round of golf.