GDixon

Not necessarily. If the battery is fully charged then the things completely dependent on it would show good. Everything else depends on the alternator and would light up. It appears the alternator is toast. Under those circumstances the alternator should be romoved and taken to Kragen, Checker, AutoZone, or whatever is in your area that will do a free alternator test. You can proceed from there after verifying the condition of the alternator. It is awfully easy to get stranded with a dead alternator. I'd advise taking your other Lexus to work on Monday.

Before you spend big bucks, replace the battery or at least have it checked. If it is the original since 1995 you have gotten your money's worth. Another thing to try is to charge the battery, if it will take a charge, and see if the car will run OK for awhile - then the alternator is suspect if running the car drains the battery.

There are posts on this site regarding the terrors of a dealer wash job on a dark finish. Use the search engine to find a few. Most detailing experts here would never allow a Lexus, or any other, mechanical car wash. I saw one out back of the Lexus dealer with big rotating drums slapping fabric tenacles against a car's finish. I said no thanks to the "free" car wash that was offered after a service appointment. Try this instead: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=50729 Also, out of three kids there must be one that could work for "room and board". (Depending on age - dirty diapers are not the best way to dry your car. )

If the 30A fuse tests OK with an ohmmeter and there is power to the fuse (lights on) then it is time to check the the wiring harness pigtail by the driver's side rear wheel which is under the cargo area for 12 volts (lights on). In essence, you are tracing the electricity, or lack of it, back from the hitch to the fuse to find out where the breakdown has occurred. Keep going backward from the hitch, checking every connection, until heat is found. You could pull the 30A fuse and check for power to one of the fuse leg sockets. If the fuse tests OK with an ohmmeter and there is power to one fuse leg then the issue lies elsewhere. If you'd rather test each connection forward from the fuse to the hitch that is an option as well. The color of the wires can be your guide. There is a post somewhere on this site with a wiring diagram for an RX300. The trailer wiring should be the same for a 330 and a 350. (Ah - here it is http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...ic=8347&hl= ) It is rare for the problem to be a bad wire but not out of the question. Finding such a thing is a pain in the rear but keep at it and it will show up eventually.

There is a main towing fuse that is 30A. Check the manual for the location. Test to see if there is electricity present with a voltmeter. You might even check the fuse with an ohmmeter. After that, try checking the connections back from the hitch with a 12V test light. The headlights should be enough to verify if the connection works. The turn signals and brakes can be checked later. You'll have to disassemble the rear cargo area if that hasn't been done yet. Instructions at: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...mp;#entry254728 If you have a towing package then an add-on converter is not necessary. Just plug the wire that came with the hitch into the harness. A *.pdf file in the above post has the location if you didn't do the original wiring yourself. From you post, it appears you are well-acquainted with electrical testing procedures so check every connection from the hitch to the fuse until you find power. After getting past the converter use the voltmeter instead of the 12V test light.

Yes, that panel is removable. I do not have a 2007 ES350 Owners Manual but the procedure is described on page 332 of the 2008 ES350 Owners manual. You might want to check that area in your manual. John I got to the filter this weekend, and boy was it dirty. Old leaves, twigs, dirt, etc. This filter sure needs changes peroidically. How much did it cost you for changing the air filter? When I turn on the AC there is usually a musty smell for about 5 minutes. Is that a symptom of a bad filter? In the humidity of the Bay Area a moldy filter could cause the musty odor. There are several posts on this site regarding the odor problem that you can find in a search. Try getting a charcoal impregnated filter from Lowe's or Home Depot and cut it to size. Make sure the thickness is compatable. Then tape the edges with duct tape and you have a brand new odor-reducing filter. If the filter is large enough then it can be cut into several Lexus filter sizes and you'd be more likely to change the filter more often. Mine is changed every 10K miles. I haven't had the rat's nest type of debris that some have found but it is definitely dirty.

See if the last two entries in the post below has useful information. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...hl=backup+light

Yes, the Lexus water - I like to flaunt that on occasion (free refills at home). OK, I finally got out to look at the glove box. The drawing in the manual for unhooking the glove box is unclear. The thumbscrew won't budge. Or pull inwards, for that matter. What's the trick? Oh, and when we get home (on extended vacation in Canada) I'm going to have a nice chat with the service manager at that unnamed Toyota dealership in Grapevine, TX, the one that presented me with the crap-filled filter: One thumb screw / stop is totally missing! The jerks must have broken it! Check entry #7 on the post below - last paragraph. I used a pair of pliers to turn the tab and a screwdriver to back it out. Squirt some silicone spray lubricant on the plastic parts when reinstalling. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...mp;#entry307469

My guess is the aforementioned battery replacement fix. When the engine is started there is a tremendous draw on the battery. It may be enough with a weak battery to cause the trickle to the memory components to be interrupted and reset. There should be other symptoms along with that however such as power windows needing reprogrammed and other things that the owner's manual mentions when replacing a battery. If the battery is over 3 years old that is another indicator that there may be a battery problem. Not sure about the "D" light not being illuminated. It may be a coincidence. Anyway, most auto stores will check a battery for free as an incentive to get you to buy one from them. Call around and find out who will do a test for free.

Vanessa// Where did you find the trailer hitch wiring harness installation guide? Can you please share? thanks, Fenton House I hate to step on Vanessa's post but she has a Lexus hitch that has the wiring as an integral part of the hitch package. The installation instructions for the hitch includes a wiring harness installation guide. On your other post, this link below was given on how to do the install. There is a *.pdf file in the post that has the factory instructions as well. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...mp;#entry254728

First, does your car have a "towing prep" package? If so, just buy the harness from a Lexus dealer (around $80) and see this post about how to install it. You can skip the part about bolting the hitch to the frame. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...mp;#entry254728 If it doesn't have the towing package then the post above has the part number of the converter that is needed to make the trailer lights work on 12 V. I haven't installed a converter but the disassembly directions should lead to the attachment point and the converter should come with instructions on where in the harness to plug it in.

The 08 RX350 is supposed to have synthetic transmission fluid that is good for 100K miles. That is what the service manager at my Lexus dealer said. It would be nice if the synthetic/100K fluid could be retrofitted to earlier models with a simple drain and fill. You'd have to ask.

Great idea. But how about me popping Viagra into the IS as well? Well, you could trade the IS350 in for an IS-F. Then the Viagra could be skipped and let nature take its course.

Next time pop a Viagra beforehand and see what happens!!!

Try using the search feature of this forum for answers to your questions. It is in the top right corner of the page. The search term has to be more than three letters long. There is a wealth of knowledge already on this site - especially about the RX300. Try not using ALL CAPS.

The several autos, trucks, boats (deep cycle batteries), and farm equipment at my place have used both Sam's batteries and Costco batteries. From my experience Costco batteries are much better and last longer. That said, Sam's batteries haven't been used by me for about five years so they may have updated their brand. As another poster said - they probably all come from the same factory anyway. Costco has an excellent no-questions-asked warranty for free three year replacements. Plus they give a 2% discount for Executive Members and another 1% for using their American Express card. Using their warranty every 35 months will give you free new batteries for the life of the car.

The OP stated that the part was ordered by VIN number. That should pinpoint the year, the part, and the application. A dealer is not always right of course.

If all else fails you may consider that the A/C needs to be serviced. Although you stated that it could not be duplicated at an A/C shop, take it to another shop and have a complete inspection and diagnosis. I have had the symptoms you describe in other cars (Ford and Porsche) when the A/C needed a recharge.

First, get the right part. Since your present part was from a Lexus dealer and they ran the part's application by the VIN it should be correct - but it may not be. It sounds like it is the wiring harness for a towing package equipped RX. Also, the part's box should have the word "converter" in the description somewhere and detailed instructions would likely be included to show where to plug it in. The part you were sold should not be just a wire with connector at each end. It may have a large grommet about 12 inches from one end. That wire "may" be necessary to plug into the converter when you get it but not having seen a converter I can't be sure. Second, the converter plugs in under the cargo area. So you could follow the instructions in the first link above for disassembling the cargo area. Then drive the RX to the dealer with the cargo area taken apart and with the converter in hand and say, "Where does this plug into the harness?" A good Lexus dealer would be helpful in this situation so you may have to try a different dealership if the present dealership's service department is baffled, or worse, uncooperative.

Yep - you need a converter. See this post for the part number and some other information. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...mp;#entry254728

While this may be true, it is not what is recommended. The 3/8" extension will remove a little cap that will allow you to drain the canister before removing it and spilling oil. If it has been tighten too tightly then the whole filter canister spins rather than the little cap. The small "O" ring under the little cap can't be changed if it is not removed. The box with the new filter should have two "O" rings and a plastic gizmo that fits into a hole that the little cap on the canister covered. A piece of 5/8" hose will fit right onto the gizmo to help control the draining of the cannister. I use about a 10 inch piece of hose. Then the canister can be removed with a filter wrench specially designed for the purpose. Assenmacher makes a metal one that is 65MM if I remember correctly - part #TOY640. NAPA auto parts also has plastic ones that work.

Also, this post has a .PDF file embedded in it that has pictures of how to access the backup light. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=44772

Try this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-RjRtjUr8j8

First of all, towing a trailer that is heavy enough to require self-contained brakes with a 2000 RX300 is not wise. But since you already have the trailer and RX it is too late now. In most cases a trailer does not even have back-up lights. Most states don't require them on a trailer so you can just leave them unhooked. Evaluate when you'd possibly need back up lights with your trailer to determine if they are really necessary. Replace the 5 wire connector with a 4 wire and you are set to go until the transmission melts down. It shouldn't matter that your brakes will work while in reverse. Another problem is that the back up lights on the RX are LED lights (I think for the 2000 model) and can't be directly tapped into for a 12V feed. So your post "modify trailer wiring" should be just that - modify the trailer's wiring and leave the RX alone. Why do you presume to lecture me. You made a lot of assumptions whithout the facts. You do not know how heavy the trailer is. It is a boat trailer and has brakes (as many boat trailer do). I am well within the limits of the weight specs as outlined in the owners manual. I did not say my trailer has back up lights! I need to tap into my backup lights with the 5th wire so the trailer brakes do not activate when I back the boat up. If the trailer brakes activate while backing up, I can not back up! You obviosly do not know the 2000 RX 300 because it does not have LED lights. Stop lecturing! I am asking for a little help, not presumptuous comments. Touchy, touchy.

First of all, towing a trailer that is heavy enough to require self-contained brakes with a 2000 RX300 is not wise. But since you already have the trailer and RX it is too late now. In most cases a trailer does not even have back-up lights. Most states don't require them on a trailer so you can just leave them unhooked. Evaluate when you'd possibly need back up lights with your trailer to determine if they are really necessary. Replace the 5 wire connector with a 4 wire and you are set to go until the transmission melts down. It shouldn't matter that your brakes will work while in reverse. Another problem is that the back up lights on the RX are LED lights (I think for the 2000 model) and can't be directly tapped into for a 12V feed. So your post "modify trailer wiring" should be just that - modify the trailer's wiring and leave the RX alone.