smooth1

Hello, and welcome to the LOC. I would start with the basics first. I would start with looking at the throttle cable and the throttle body, make sure there isn't to much play in the cable at the throttle lever there. There should be a little play, but if it's more than that you may need to adjust it tighter. Beyond that point before going into more possibilities, I think I would need more of a description of what is going on. LIke is the motor revving and not going anywhere? or no revs and not going anywhere? So if you press the gas pedal, what does happen mechanically? Because if your getting RPM's and not going anywhere, well, that could be a transmission issue, clutch if it's a manual or torque converter if it's an auto. If your not getting any rpm's then it could soemthing in the throttlebody.

Transmissions are a world all to themselves. ASE certified mechanics aren't even qualified to work on them. You may need a transmission specialist to sort out this. But first, I would just swap the sensors, clean em again when you do. If the problem persists, or switches back to 1st and 2nd, then it very well could be one of the sensors. But then it's figuring out which one. YOu could just replace both, or you could try and find out which on it is, and just replace that one. If you replace them both, and still have this issue, then it's really time for you to take it in and have the tranny pros tell you how much it will cost.

That's why I recommended one that has Freeze Frame. The ECU is not a warning system. It logs data and applies the correct programmed logic to the information it has acquired. Just as an example, take a knock sensor. If it logs a knock event, it will log that in the ECU,but no cel will come up yet. If the knock occurs X amount of times in any given period of time, it will !Removed! or advance the ignition as required. But if the knock continues even beyond that it will trigger the cel to go off. But if the sensor stops working, then the cel will come up as the resistance meter will be outside it's parameters and read as a failed sensor. But the events are still there to look at and see what has been going on. The lack of a cel is what I was looking at here. which is why I recommended switching the sensors back to thier original position, clean them off again while your doing that and see if the problem still exsists. If so, maybe the sensor is reading a real problem, but the events haven't happened enouph times to trigger the cel as it's reverse now, (how long are you in reverse for?) Once we can determine the sensor is good or bad, then we can move on to other contributing factors. Yes or no?

I would check those snesors again first. Maybe pull em and see if they need cleaning again, then switch them back. Maybe consider doing this a few times to make sure it's not the problem before moving on. You may need to replace the sensors. It's hard to say with out the ODB II scan to tell us whats going on.

Alright people, let's keep this clean ok? I am interested in reading how this goes and I don't want to have to close it over some stupid comments along the way. So, everyone was saying.....

Congratulations on the new ride! And that is exactly why I got the 350 also. You get 4 doors, decsent gas mileage, and still quick enouph. Not to mention it looks great, gives a great ride, nice interior, and all the toys.

Annoying

Yeah, it's easy. Be very careful of the plastic trim around the tray and center console. It scratches really easy, and it's permanent unless you do alot of cosmetic rework to fix it. You may want to tape it off, or something, but if not, just be careful. This part : But to remove the tray: Step 1: Step2: Step3:

I wouldn't say they didn't flush it, as I'm sure they did. I may have misunderstood you in that I thought you meant they put in the wrong fluid. Not just a different brand. But you might want to call them and find out exactly what they did use and find out for yourself if you should replace it again or not. I'm glad to hear you may have fixed it. Hopefully that is the issue in it's intirety. I would still consider getting an ODB II scanner sometime in the near future though. All cars are run by sensors now, so being able to track down which one will help you alot in the future.

I know that there are some internal setting that may be effecting the sensativity of the unit, so it keeps ejecting the CD or whatever. All I can say is take it in and have them look at it, they won't fix it, but they may just replace the CD player portion under the warrentee for you.

that is strange....to which I have a one word fix.......warrentee... :) they won't even bother to try and fix it, they'll just replace it.

Right at the top of this forum page and on the Home page are several links to tire companies and information about tires. Did you click on any of those and not find what you are looking for? TireRack.com Tire review Firestone consumer reports tire review For or Against Megasearch

I think what they mean about it not working with the NAV system is because the Nav screen pops up in that tray, and the cover would prevent that from being able to happen. If you have removed the Nav then that won't be an issue. The size and fitment of the tray is the same though. (I got a NAv dash tray for an IS 300 that didn't have the stock nav so I could hook up another screen and use it as a monitor), Fit like a glove, so I don't see why it wouldn't work the other way. And I would get it from here: LTuned.com and not from Lextacy. I have heard alot about them claiming that some of the parts are TRD or JDM and are in fact some cheap knock off parts. I know that to be true of some of their exhaust systems as the company they advertise is a Knock off aftermarket company!

Yeah, find another IS350, and be happy.... I love it when I park at a store or resturaunt, and after dinner your walking to the car and you see it from across the lot, especially next to a new 335 or something, the IS looks sooooo much better! Just be patient, it's worth it.

You can start there. That is probably a good ballpark number. I would just make sure the one you get has freeze frame and enhanced code readings. Then you can read your own codes, clear them, and do your own freeze frame of the event as it happens so you don't need to duplicate the problem over and over again in order to chase it down.

You may just need to clean and lubricate the throttle cable and lever on the throttle body. It may be sticking.

vacuume

I would be able to understand needing pads, but not rotors. And if so, you should be referring to the dealer for warrentee repair then as there must be some defect of some kind that caused the premature wear.

Are you talking about the tray on the dash? I am somewhat confused. Can you post some pics of your current set up?

Welcome to the LOC! Any pics? Any plans?

Welcome to the LOC. I haven't seen the gas filler door breaking as an issue, but I am sure it has happened from time to time. And as for your question I guess that really depends on your ability. What is exactly broken, and do you think you can fix it? Did it break on the door side or the car side? At the hinge? Do you have a pic of it so we could see how it is broken? Have you called Lexus to find out how much the parts are and get the part numbers? Maybe then you could source some other places.

Davey Jones

Oh, I just saw your from Jamaica. probably not alot of totalled Lexus's coming thru there huh? I would still post your request on the salvage message boards and find one like that.