landar

It is very common for the transmission mount to go bad. And with the age of your car, the motor mounts might also be shot. The fact that you can shift into neutral and it stops could be several things. Maybe the tranny mount is bad or your engine is having trouble idling smoothly under a slight load... or both. The tranny mount is really easy to change so you might start there. With rubber parts, its more age-related than mileage so if yours have never been changed, its time. Your engine might also need a basic tune-up: plugs, wires, caps, rotors, etc.

I just replaced a battery. Very easy to do. There is one screw to get the outer case apart, then an inner battery compartment held with 2 more screws. Remove the inner compartment and replace the old battery (+ facing up).

If the engine will run on starter fluid being sprayed into the manifold and you have fuel at the rails, then it sure sounds to me like several or more fuel injectors are not working. Perhaps due to broken wires or connectors going to the injectors. I would check the codes to see if you can gain additional insight. So, based upon your hydrolock experience, would you recommend draining the coolant from the block before doing this job?

1) The TB cover gaskets are not critical IMO and at only 6 years old, should be in good condition such that you can re-use. 2) I would use ONLY Toyota coolant. Its about $20 a non-diluted gallon. It has the proper additives to keep your OE pump happy. Cheap insurance.

How does it perform on steeper hills at 45mph and locked in 3rd gear?

Interesting question, Jon. I suppose if there is some slop in the belt teeth and cam sprocket, it might affect the spark timing somewhat. Enough to cause pinging...don't know. I rather doubt it. You are supposed to change timing belts every 90k miles or 6 years, whichever comes first. Your '92 is a "non-interference" engine, so a snapped belt will not harm your motor. Just leave you stranded. With 245k on your engine, there could also be considerable carbon deposits on the head and piston which will exacerbate a pinging (predetonation) issue. If your timing belt has more than 90k miles, I would consider changing it out. Then you can let us know if it made a difference.

I would think it is a problem with your particular car. Maybe the OBDII connector is messed up (pins bent, missing)? Might have been a problem from the factory. I would take it to a dealer and have them plug in their tool to see if it works correctly. Take your own OBDII along and ask why it does not work. Might cost you a few bucks but will clear the issue. If they can not read it, you know it is a problem with your car. On the plugs, keep pulling as RDM says. Snap...whooops.... :whistles: You can always buy new ones. You don't actually need to change the plugs until 200KM (120k miles).

Lexus power seats are among some of the most adjustable that I have used. You should be able to get a comfortable setting. It sounds like the tilt axis of the seat frame is not properly set (too far forward). You should be able to easily tilt the seat by pushing up/down on the side adjusting lever. Find your owners manual and carefully check each axis for operation. It is possible that some motor or switch has gone bad.

Have you looked at the CEL code(s) yet? They may provide a clue. Here is how to check -> http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html Let us know what you find.

I am not saying that is is simply a gas issue. I am trying to get some new clues. If you used a higher octane gas and if it did help, it might assist in determining the actual problem. Since you say the pinging is a relatively new issue within the last 3 weeks, perhaps it is a knock sensor as curiousB mentioned. Or maybe you just got a tank of "bad" gas. Not likely but could be that simple if you've lived a clean life. Run your current tank to empty and find a top-tier gas station (Shell, Chevron, Texaco, Exxon, Mobil, etc) and fill up with PREMIUM and see if the pinging persists.

So, you initially put the new starter in, old relay in, and it started cranking w/o the ignition key turned? And the 7.5a fuse was installed and did not blow? I would start by obtaining a schematic. I don't not have one for the 94 LS400. But I would do a simple test with the relay out. If you have an ohm meter, find the coil terminals of the relay and connect one of them +12v and the other to gnd. Does the relay click? Do you get continuity on/off from the other two contact terminals? Then, with the relay still out, measure the resistance of the starter solenoid coil by connecting the ohmmeter from one side of the relay contact pin (in the terminal block) and ground. To determine which pin this is, first use the voltmeter to find the +12v side of the contact, then choose the other pin. Let us know the resistance and relay test results.

Couple of questions: What year is your car? Have you tried 93/94 octane and noticed any improvement?

Yes, you are getting or already have, Lexus OCD (Obsessive Compulsive Disorder). It is really easy to catch. Just own a Lexus. As for the fluid running, it could be entirely normal but check the coolant reservoir for correct level and keep an eye on the gauges. The squeaky visor can probably be fixed with a quick (and small) amount of vinyl protectant on the shaft. Buy an aerosol can and use the plastic tube to shoot it in there.

Essentially, yes you need a larger torque wrench. I had to invest in a new one just for this job. Got it at an autoparts store for something like $60. There is too much distance between 140 to 181. Now, if you only get it to 180 lb-ft instead of 181, I think it will be OK ;)

If it were mine, I would take the actuator out and do a more detailed examination. Perhaps something is jamming the motor. And if it turns out to be the motor itself, I would try to fix it. Even small motors can be rebuilt.

I did a little checking on mine and found that the trunk actuator is on the "fuel opn" fuse in the trunk. There is a fuse panel located on the drivers side inside the trunk. Apparently this fuse is used both for the fuel door and the trunk actuator. You dont actually have to go looking for it. Just pull your fuel door switch and if the fuel door pops open, the fuse is good. But just for reference, here is the fuse (you have to pull up the carpet and a couple of access covers). And another pic showing the motor actuator. You can easily see it by slightly pulling down the cover just right of the trunk latch assembly. If the fuse checks out, I believe your next step will be access this area. Try the fuel door and let us know.

I hope this does not come as a shock but...the LS is an old people's car. :o If you are changing wheels just to get your friends approval you may be disappointed to find that they still think its an old person's car. However, if you really want to explore the world of wheels, you can get hours of entertainment from the "Wheels and Tires" section of this forum -> http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showforum=10 Enjoy!

Well let's look at this battery scenario in a bit more detail. If a battery has a weak cell, it presents itself as additional internal resistance within the battery. All batteries, even new ones, have a certain amount of internal resistance. It is very small but present nonetheless. As a battery ages or because of manufacturing defects, the internal resistance begins to increase. As the resistance increases, current draw causes a significant voltage drop within the battery itself. That results in a lower voltage across the external battery posts. This sort of condition will surely result in a rapid clicking of the starter relay. If however, the battery provides a quick burst of energy and then just basically shuts down (a cell opens up almost completely), you could experience a single click of the starter solenoid. But subsequent immediate tries should result in silence as the battery is attempting to recover. Certainly not a robust start. The "key" to the starter solenoid issue is to isolate the "click" to a certain area of the engine compartment(starter area). And as I mentioned in an earlier post, not all "clicks" are created equal. The starter relay is quite different from the starter solenoid and the former will create a rather soft click as opposed to the harsher click of the solenoid (almost a metallic ping throughout the engine block if you are using a mechanic's stethoscope). Billy, I know exactly what you mean about turning the bolt head around. I have done that "trick" myself. Why not test VBdenny's hypothesis? Since you have two LS's, swap the batteries between vehicles and see if the symptoms jump to the other car.

You can tell if it is a Platinum edition if it has special badging indicating so. And special trim, a few other small items. Really not much difference and should not be a deal breaker. See this post -> http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=51277&st=0&p=335007&hl=platinum&fromsearch=1entry335007

At this point, I am thinking you should replace your brakes. ;) With your foot firmly planted on the brake pedal surely it does not budge at all when putting it in gear. The RPM's at idle sounds about right. Actually, I think it may be working fine. It is normal for the front end to lift or lower slightly (very slightly..depending upon forward or reverse) against the suspension as the transmission is engaged. It is more of a sensation that the car is moving. Having said that, at 158k you motor mounts could need replacing. If you take the engine to 2000-2500 RPM's while in park and feel a more pronounced shaking, then the mounts could be worn.

Yeah, I have to agree with Brett. Although bras can look cool, I found out the hard way that they are a pain to maintain. I ordered one for a Mitsubishi Eclipse that I once had and soon found out that if it rains, you are supposed to remove the bra, clean it and let it dry out before reinstalling. In fact, the manufacturer warned against letting the bra on the car for long periods(more than a few days). If you drive in rain or wash the car, moisture gets trapped between the bra and paint and over time can damage the finish unless you remove. So, a bra has its place for day and highway trips to keep the bugs off but they just, in my opinion, are not worth the finish risk or hassle.

Good logic, curiousB. Let us know how easy/difficult it is to remove the switch assembly. A few pictures would be nice! :)

Good info, Dave. Thanks and welcome!

The valet lock will not prevent the trunk release from the key press anyway. Just wanted to make sure the lock was not pressed in to foil the test. Next thing I would try: Release the trunk manually with the key via the upper left (kinda hidden) lock cylinder in the trunk lid. Then gently close the trunk lid. Listening carefully, do you hear the actuator motor running or attempt to run? At this point, it is looking like the "trip" signal is ok but that either the release actuator is bad, stuck or no power. I suppose there is fuse somewhere.

There is also a whole "Wheels and Tires" section of this forum that you may find interesting -> http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showforum=10