landar

Ok, so we get the needle info I was wanting. A temp needle pointing to approx. halfway is correct operation. The temperature should get there in about 10 minutes of normal driving in cold weather (sooner if above freezing). Usually when the heater does put out correct heat at higher RPM's but cools down at lower RPM's, it points to air in the cooling system or low on coolant or both. In particular, air may be trapped in the heater core area. You might: 1) Buy a new "radiator" cap and install(it is located on the coolant reservoir). This will ensure that the cooling system pressure is correct. 2) burp the system by making sure the coolant reservoir is full, bringing the engine up to operation temp and keeping RPMs above 2k for a few minutes. Let the engine cool and repeat if necessary. I believe there are instructions in your engine compartment. Did you just post the same issue in a new thread? :chairshot:

I am guessing that you mean 200-300 RPM idle rather than 2-3k RPM? The latter range would be very high. Couple of thoughts. Try to get an OBDII scanner on the port. There may still be some info you can glean. Also, do some research on the IACV (Idle Air Control Valve). It may be in need of cleaning. Some owners clean the throttle body as it may have restrictive plate movement due to carbon buildup. Also, could be a sensor (perhaps an engine temp sensor) is on the fritz. Here is a thread on the IACV. You can do some searching for additional info -> http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=67203&st=0&p=422963&hl=iacv&fromsearch=1entry422963

Kidding? Would I kid? ;) Just trying to be "diplomatic". I have seen some very nice mud flaps with Yosemite Sam on them saying something about "Backing off". Now who would NOT think those are just about the coolest looking things? All kidding aside, I might consider flaps if they kept the salt off my car's underbelly. But that's about the only reason I would consider them.

Again, where does the temp needle point when this warm air is flowing or when the car has been driven for approx. 1/2 hour? BTW, its RPM, not "rmp". :)

Yeah, lots of people think I am funny, though not in the comical sense. :whistles:

... do you find that mud flaps actually have some functional value or are they mostly for looks?

Look in your owner's manual for the fuse location. There is an older thread discussing heated seat troubleshooting -> http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=54490&st=0&p=349879&hl="heated%20seats"&fromsearch=1entry349879 It is easy to use this forum's search engine. In the upper right of the screen there is a search box. Type in "heated seats" (with quotes) and either press <return> or the magnifying glass. Behold the wonders that ensue. B)

Now, go to the passenger seat. Does the bottom cushion seem to heat? or same as drivers?

Soothing advice? One cup of hot tea. Add honey to sweeten. Sit back and enjoy. It all depends upon your expectations. Like VBDenny said, I have never heard of a failing ECU. It either works or it doesn't. And BTW, are you referring to the engine or transmission when you say it is a little "confused"? The timing belt is not an option. Since this is a 95 with interference engine, you are playing Russian roulette with the engine. All depending upon the last change which we do not know...but assuming, you need to it change soon. The fuel system cleaner stuff is, IMO, just snake oil. Wont hurt, but wont much help either. Your money. Its mostly a psychological thing. All in all, I would keep her. It is depreciated down to about the least you can go. Unless you have the money to buy something much newer, just keep her and invest a few more $$$. If you long for something newer, and have the money, go for it. Life is much too short. You save about $3k a year driving an older vehicle (that's about the average depreciation per year until you get down to a vehicle with ~$3000 value. Then it hovers at ~$2k-3k value depending upon the condition...you are almost there).

Curious, I would be careful about assuming what the shop(s) will do at this point until you take it to several more shops for an opinion. You mentioned that you do not need it back to pristine so tell the shops that. If you go in there sanding and painting yourself, then decide later its too difficult to achieve your goals, you may very well have forced the shop to have to take the more expensive route to getting it looking decent again. The upside to doing it yourself is that you will have more appreciation for what body shops do. ;) I had my 98 LS400 rear quarter redone after I accidentally backed into it with our van...I mean my wife backed into it. :whistles: Anyway, the metal was dented and scratched. Took it to a local shop that does classics and hot rods and told the owner that it did not have to be perfect. $300 later I could not even tell there was any damage. Looked factory original. Other shops quoted me $500-700 but they wanted to blend the paint into the roof line, doors, etc, etc. No thanks.

Yes there is a heating element in the seat. You might check for a blown fuse. Do any of the seats heat up properly?

The issue is that you are talking about a black car which is about the most difficult to repair. At least it is the most difficult to make the scratch "disappear". If you are not familiar with bodywork or paintwork, leave it to the pros. But, take it to another shop and tell them of your expectations. I am guessing you could get this significantly repaired for around $200. Some shops are really anal and want to blend the paint in with the rest of the body and that takes time and cost $$$. However, there should be some very reputable shops that are hungry in these economic times and will do a much better job than you will be able to do for a fraction of the original quote. I recommend that you shop around and don't attempt this repair yourself unless you have experience in body/paint work. Post a pic if you have the time and inclination. We want to help you carry the load by feeling your pain. :(

Brent did say the unplugged connector was close to the seat track. So you might want to take a powerful flashlight and carefully look for a cable of wires along the track and check the connector.

Yes, it could also be a temp sensor issue as well or in combination with the thermostat. That is why I asked about the behavior of the temp gauge. May contain some clues.

Well lucy, your car has all the classic symptoms of a thermostat that is stuck open. No, it is not normal to take 15-20 minutes to blow warm air. Should be around 5 minutes tops, especially at this time of year in Kentucky. And a cold engine uses more fuel, hence your poor mileage. So, I would investigate that item first. It is pretty easy to change the thermostat and I would recommend using an OEM Toyota stat at the dealer along with a new gasket. Will cost you about $35 in parts if you can DIY ($15 for thermostat and $20 for a gallon of antifreeze. labor will be extra). And...you really should be using 91 octane fuel although this alone is not causing your heating issues. Also, where does the temperature needle point (middle or below) on your dash readout when fully warmed?

Yeah, lots of red flags with this mechanic. Time to seek a second mechanic's opinion before proceeding with a replacement engine.

yeah, I need to play with the settings. I did switch to "A" I believe, but no difference. I have seen it happen in Ohio especially. I am driving down the interstate and see a state trooper parked in the median strip. I am thinking he/she is checking speed but maybe they are just eating donuts. Anyway, the K40 goes off while the V1 is completely silent. Got me spooked with the V1 for sure. I thought maybe the K40 local oscillator was interfering with the V1, so I reached down and turned off the K40. No difference. I have seen the V1 be unresponsive even in our van with only the V1 on-board. I will have to do more testing. I am becoming more impressed with the K40.

My '02 LS430 came with dealer installed K40 radar detector, front and rear. I figured it was an outdated "toy" and would never hold a candle to my V1. What a lesson I had coming. To my surprise, the K40 has gone off many more times to alert me of an oncoming patrol car whereas the V1 has been (at times) completely silent. The V1 seems to give me more warning distance when it does decide to go off but now has me wondering about it's capabilities. I suppose I could send it in to be checked out as it could be malfunctioning... but I doubt it. Anyone else had such an experience?

Sounds like you have an early 90's LS. Try wiggling/jiggling the key in the door lock while turning clockwise. I will bet you can get it to unlock that way. Also try the passenger side as well if you have no luck with the driver's side.

At 125k, your car *SHOULD* have (or had) the following done: Fluids changed multiple times...depending upon type/schedule (ie:oil, transmission, coolant, brake, diff, power steering) Timing belt replaced (possibly water pump but not factory scheduled) Throttle body cleaned Spark plugs Engine air (and cabin) filters How many of those items have been done?

Most of that stuff is simply snake oil. The cleaner won't really hurt anything other than your wallet. Might make you feel better but wont do a thing to help the engine. You really can't do better than just using premium fuel at each fillup. Not sure what is included in a 'tune-up' for $1500 at the dealer. How many miles on your '02?

hmmmm. Just saw this thread. Why start a new one for the same light/O2 sensor, Hugo?

Yes, could be the right bank(code 28) or left bank (code 21). Which code(s) are you getting? See this link -> http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html

Welcome beepclick! I don't know if you are asking for car advice or financial advice or a little of both. So....you get the "fatherly" advice talk. ;) The 04 LS sounds nice but perhaps a little salty. However all of that is a moot point if you have no income and are living on savings. I recommend driving the ES300 (sounds nice enough) until you can afford a newer LS. They (nice LS's) will still be there when the economy recovers and you can again find employment.

What code(s) are you getting? Is it a main (as you imply) or sub oxygen sensor? Depending on sensor location, it could be a problem with the cat and not the sensor itself. And just curious, how many miles are on your car? Symptoms might be lower gas mileage and/or failed emissions test. It is not as serious as a heart attack but more than a toothache. :) Welcome.