landar

You have discovered the Lexus "secret". Congrats. You will have many years and miles of luxury!

So the LS400 is something like $8.5K and the LS430 is $13.6k? The LS400 will need a timing belt right off the bat...another $1k or so. If price is not an issue, go for the one you prefer...color, ride comfort, heated seats, nav, etc.

Spark when it wont start?

With 316k miles (and who knows what kind of maintenance life), it could be a number of things. Perhaps a dirty/sticky IACV but with fumes and rattling you should probably consult a local mechanic.

:( no reply? Gives us an idea of the price of each. Then we'll decide which has better "value". ;)

Nice tutorial. Thanks for posting, lexfourcam!

Wow, I missed that whole thread action. Must have been asleep. The 50 degree thing is so misunderstood. Here's the deal as I understand it. When you finally remove the tensioner and take the belt off, the cams are going to rotate somewhat. Call it "snap-roll" because of spring tension. IF you leave the crank in the 0 (TDC) position, there is a chance that a valve(s) could contact a piston when the cam rotates w/o the belt. The 50 degree ATDC just ensures that the pistons are sufficiently clear should the cams roll. Thats all. Some do it at TDC and are fine if the cam does not snap suddenly. Just extra insurance. Some mechanics use what is called a cam lock to keep the cam from rotating when the timing belt is removed but locks are not needed for this engine.

If it is consistent, that is really good news. It gives to you a chance to try various things. I would be curious to know if it had spark when it wont start. That would be my first step in troubleshooting. Isolating the fuel vs. spark issue. How long has this been happening? Any significant repair just before it started happening?

I have not used the tool you mention but thought about buying a Lexus SST (Special Service Tool) for the job. Wouldn't it be neat if we had a tool loaner program for forum users? Pay a small refundable deposit and pay shipping to get those SST's. I am dreaming. ;) Ok now....when I did my 98 LS400, I "wedged" an allen key in the flexplate to hold the crankshaft. Not sophisticated for sure but it works. Then there is the powerful impact wrench route(gotta have a strong wrench). Oh, but the favorite is the "wedge the wrench handle against the floor and crank the starter for a split second". Many swear by it. I am sure it works. Its just not for me, the faint-hearted. Besides, how do you retorqued the nut when done? Turn the starter in the reverse direction? :whistles: There is something special about the VVT. At least on the 98 VVT 4.0L, and I would imagine the 4.3L as well. You need to set the crank at 50 degrees ATDC to insure valve clearance when installing (or removing) the belt. The tutorial on my 98 explains all of this. As concerns the water pump. I sure would change it while in there. Yeah, it costs what, $150, but if the old one seizes....priceless! (as they say). See this thread -> http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=61372&st=0&p=394040&hl=timing%20belt&fromsearch=1entry394040

Have you tried your local Lexus dealer? I know, too pricey. But I buy parts off my dealer all the time. First I find the OEM part online and get the best price. Then I ask for the same price and they have always matched it. In fact, I just went in today and when the parts manager saw me (and it has been months) he said "You're the guy who always beats me up on price". Righto. He said I was the ONLY one who has ever asked for a discount. Ask and ye shall receive. It is to the point now that he just automatically takes 20% off the list for me. Nice. Anyway, if you have a dealer close by, go and "beat them up" . :chairshot: They will soon know you by name! B)

Its a tough call. I went from a '98 LS400 to an '02 LS430 and am very impressed with the build quality of the 430. While I like the overall looks of the LS400 vs the LS430, the ride in the 430 is absolutely top notch. Fit is superb. I find it better than the LS400. In the end, it really comes down to personal preference. I have heard the air suspension can be problematic and big bucks to fix. Consider also whether the 98 has had timing belt/water pump done. I don't think you would go wrong either way as long as one has not been in an accident. Check them out carefully. Good luck.

Whoops! What do ya know...their the crap ones from China. :o To the OP: I know its nice to save a buck, but brake rotors are not the place. Buy OEM. You bought a Lexus. Spend the dough and do it right.

Sorry, must have missed seeing the year in your signature (unless just added). We can give you answers, right or wrong! Same low price. B)

Forgot to mention...I also have both strut rods for the 98 LS with the old rubber bushings. That is if you have the inclination to have them pressed out and new bushings added. Free but pay shipping. Otherwise, landfill. :o Save the planet...PLEASE! :P

In short, no, there really is no way to tell if they are ready to let loose. However, if a visual inspection reveals noticeable cracks and bulging then yes, time to replace. Heat and time break the hose material down. If you have concerns, I would just go ahead and replace them. Its cheap insurance. BTW, what year is your...GS300? You know this is the LS400 forum?

Wear and tear issues aside, which car do you feel or know to provide more overall safety? Since you will be spending much more time commuting, you will be exposed to more drivers. Lots of opportunity for a potentially dangerous accident. Some idiot in, oh I dont know, say a pick up truck, may pull out in front of you while you are doing 50-60 MPH. Of course an accident could occur a mile from your home but with a longer commute you do increase your exposure. The Volvo may provide more modern safety features which trump your concerns about wear, tear and major repair. You only have one body. Just something to ponder outside of the money/maintenance issue.

Yes, I was puzzled by the request because on a 2000 LS you do not have plug wires. It uses COP technology (Coil On Plug).

If coolant is leaking from the TStat housing, you will need to get that fixed first. Did you use a new gasket and get it properly seated on the thermostat? It does take a bit of patience. Now, this from the LS400 DIY tutorial... 6) Remove the old thermostat and gasket. Install a new gasket (Part #16325-62010) on the new thermostat (Part #90916-03084). Then align the jiggle valve of the thermostat to the top of the housing and insert the thermostat into the water inlet housing. http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/cooling/thermostat.html The "wizzing" noise is you pee'ing your pants(when you saw the leak). ;) Kidding! The whizzing noise could perhaps be a cavitation noise caused by insufficient coolant in the water pump. Perhaps. Take it one step at a time. Fix the leak then get her up to snuff on coolant and go from there.

"Ain't" it fun throwing darts from a thousand miles away with a blindfold on?!!

Calling OmarG...are you there, over? :whistles: I sent you email and PM. No reply. If you have changed your mind that is fine. I will wait a few more days then they are going to someone else who is interested.

Well,since you are new, we will cut you some slack for not doing a search. And welcome! If you did a simple search, you would quickly come to realize how the power steering pump is mounted directly above the alternator so that if(when?) the power steering pump begins to leak, the fluid gets into the alternator, trashes it and "weird" electrical issues occur. Your car is trying to tell you that the alternator is no longer working. And your PS is out. Strange coincidence? No. At least it seems to me that is your case. Sorry. Wish I had better news. What year LS do you own? And mileage?

You don't have to take it the dealer. Any competent tire shop can remove it.

You might try disconnecting your alt and driving around (keep it very local...maybe just neighborhood) and see if the lights flicker. Of course the alt light will be on but should not be flicking. With a good, fully charged battery, you should be able to distinguish between alt. and other circuitry. In other words, if the flickering still occurs with no alt., then you can be fairly sure it is not the culprit. The battery or loose wiring would then be suspect.

Yeah, from the little I have researched it sure seems like the alternator can cause weird problems. Now, you checked the DC voltage, but do you have any idea as to any AC ripple on the line? In general, computers dont like AC (like when a leg of the rectifier circuit is toast). Lastly, any codes that you have been able to pull?

I sent a message to your gmail account with instructions and address. The only other parts I have from my 98 LS400 are a used water pump, both idler pulleys, a thermostat and a tensioner. They all are OEM and appear to be in good shape, just replaced them while I was in there doing the timing belt. They are free for the asking but you would need to cover shipping(probably around $15 for all) if anyone is interested.