eatingupblacktop

Here's a list from www.clublexus.com that might interest you: Air intake: Rod Millen custom adapters and cone - Greddy cones - HKS cones - K&N cones - Blitz cones - Weapon-R cones K&N drop in filters # E-2606 SOON to be SRT HFI Tom's drop in filter E-Ram intake Exhaust: Borla exhaust HKS exhaust Blitz exhaust (Realize TT, imported) L-Sportline exhaust Tom's exhaust Spark plug wires: Jacob Electronics MSD Ignition Magnecor wires Vitek wires Torque Convertor: SRT RMM Brakes: RMM Brembo AP Racing Strut bar (any 93-97 Supra strut bars will fit with some added washers): Cusco 93-97 Supra TRD 93-97 Supra Shocks and struts: Eibach Intrax Tokico Bilstein H&R Suspensions KYB Koni Coilovers: Tom's Tein Ha Exhaust manifolds: TDI Supercharger: TDI (imported from Japan) ECU: G-Force Tom's

Shouldn't be leaking there. The filter is at the rear on the drivers side, just in front of the rear wheel. Ask your mechanic how he serviced your car?

Depending on the temperature. There is a threshold for amount of traction beyond which summer tires loose grip and winter tires gain grip. As long as you're above that threshold then you're right about greater contact having greater grip on a clean and dry surface.

Check the tension on your serpentine belt. Next, I would clean your battery terminals and make sure the connection is tight. If that's not the problem, check the voltage on your battery at rest/under load. Next I would check what your alt is putting out. If both of them are ok, I would test your cables. As to your p/s leak, check where it's leaking from. Could be that the leak misses your alt altogether. Nevertheless, I would get it fixed.

Yikes! Please don't test traction with steering--I'd hate to hear of someone doing that and wind up in the ditch or worse. If your car is equipped with ABS (i.e. all LS400s) then wait until you are on a straight stretch of road, check to make sure nobody is behind you, and jab the brakes with firm pressure, but not enough to wildly upset the balance of the car (in the event that road conditions are indeed slick). If ABS kicks in, then you know where your limit is. If you are truly on black ice, then you will get ABS response with VERY little pedal effort! Sorry for the misunderstanding. What I meant was to slightly, and I do mean slightly, as well as gently, moving the steering wheel perhaps 1-2 degrees side to side to see where the grip is. Not enough to lose control and not in rush hour traffic. Braking can give you similar feedback but you run the risk of abruptly losing grip and entering a slide much more easily than by tweaking the wheel. The gist of it is to know what kind of traction you've got in adverse conditions rather than going out totally oblivious or unconcerned because you happen to have awd and mudders on and think you can get through anything without slowing down or being carefull. At the first big snowfall of each winter we see who's thinking and who's asleep at the wheel.

That's exactly the situation where you want the best tire you can get. You can prepare for the snow you see on the road or coming down in a snow storm or the rain on the road, but black ice is invisible and it will bite your !Removed!. The only defence against it besides good tires is to ocassionaly check the grip you have by gently rocking your steering from side to side and to listen to the weather forecasts. One time I was exiting the lodge of a ski resort in Quebec. The road out was all downhill. As soon as I got on it, I realized it was a sheet of ice. As I was moving down, I could see a lot of cars in the ditch on both sides of the road. Couldn't use the brakes at all. Would just start sliding. As I was picking up speed, I thought, do I head for the ditch now and minimize the damage or do I try to ride it out and take the chance of going off at a higher speed? Just as I was trying to decide what the hell to do, I noticed that in the middle of the road between the two lanes was a ribbon of snow. I put both my driver's side wheels on the snow and it kept me from going faster. Still couldn't use the brakes but made it all the way down. Could barely pry my fingers off the steering wheel when I finally came to a stop. Had winter treads. If I had all season or summer tires, I would have been in the ditch with the rest of them.

In Arizona I'd be looking for a garage no matter what car I was driving. For a more complete perspective, I'd check out the forums for some of the Engllish and German products then compare with what you read on Lexus forums.

I'm not sure, but I think an auto broker might be able to get you a warranty from Lexus without you having to go directly through a Lexus dealership.

Sounds to me like a power supply/wiring/relay issue. What kind of noise are you hearing? Are you saying that when you reconnected the battery, you heard the starter? What kind of damage was there when your sunroof was stolen?

It doesn't concern me whether you believe me or not. You have no reason to either way. We've never met. Nevertherless, for your own safety and empirical inquiry, I urge you to research this topic a bit more. You might find yourself changing your mind.

"When I see winter specialty tires being tested successfully against summer tires on an ice skating rink then, and only then, will I become a believer" There have also been plenty of local tv news items and reviews in car shows such as Motorweek.

Yea, I've never heard of a sunroof being stolen either. I know that water goes down the drain in the opposite direction from ours, so what other interesting stories do you have from down under?

I have to disagree. First of all, AWD beats either FWD or RWD anytime any place. Next, the aggressive tread of a winter tire will give you better traction in snow than any summer or all season tire. Otherwise we may as well be driving around on slicks in the winter. Lastly, temperature is as important in how a tire performs as is the amount of snow you're in. The lower the temp, the less traction for a summer tire or all season even on dry roads. What I was trying to convey is that FWD and F/AWD (front torque biased AWD) vehicles are UNSAFE, more unsafe, even when shod with winter specialty tires, when compared to my 92 LS400 with summer tires. And since my summer tires clearly have more roadbed contact surface area they will ALWAYS have better traction on a hard smooth surface, slippery or no. And let's not bring up that old saw about rubber formulation, winter tires getting softer in cold weather, there is absolutely no foundation for anyone believing those same "softening" formulations are not also used on summer tires. When I see winter specialty tires being tested successfully against summer tires on an ice skating rink then, and only then, will I become a believer. It's been done in an indoor hockey rink here in Canada for tv ads. No comparison between winter tires and anything else. Your argument that "my summer tires clearly have more roadbed contact surface area" is moot because if you're on snow you have no road contact. In that circumstance your traction is totally dependant on how well your tire can grip and clear the snow. The only reason there is a tread on summer tires at all is to clear water on a wet road. The best traction you can get on clear and dry asphalt is on tires with no tread. It's obvious that the aggressive tread pattern and depth of that pattern in winter tires, is designed to give you an advantage with snow.

Dealers' prime motivation is the bottom line, whether sales or service. You don't have to stay with the dealer. There are plenty of aftermarket warranty companies out there. They're looking for owners just like you who still have a warranty on their car. The key is to find one that's reputable. Here's a couple of links that might help: http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/WebX/.ef14c39/?127 http://www.aaautowarranty.com/index.asp I would even contact your AAA FOR for some recommendations.

A Lexus dealer saying a 90LS is too old for them to service? New one on me. Try disconnecting the negative termiinal of the battery for about ten miinutes to allow ecm to reset.

Hey Pete still lookin? Sounds like it the valves need to be adjusted. With 125k remember to check that the timing belt's been done.

<br><br> You know if you read enough of this forum, it gets to be hard to settle in for a nice relaxing cruise because your ears are open wide for most of the trip. 90LS or should it be 91LS, how did you make out at the dealer? I'm asking because, I think I'm beginning to detect a slight vibration at about 60 kph. Ealier this summer, I drove for about half a mile with the prk brk on. The vibration grew stronger the faster I went until I had to stop to find out what it was. I totally forgot about that until now. I'm wondering what all that vibration might have affected? Soon as I get some time, gonna have to do some of the tests that everybody's posted on this thread.<br> Update. Whew! One tire reinflated to 33 lbs from 28 and another rebalanced and the LS is the old smoothy she was meant to be. Started with the easy stuff and am I glad I didn't have to go any further. FYI, coasting in neutral - no change. Driving over different surfaces - noticeable change.

I have to disagree. First of all, AWD beats either FWD or RWD anytime any place. Next, the aggressive tread of a winter tire will give you better traction in snow than any summer or all season tire. Otherwise we may as well be driving around on slicks in the winter. Lastly, temperature is as important in how a tire performs as is the amount of snow you're in. The lower the temp, the less traction for a summer tire or all season even on dry roads.

Still sounds like the dimmer pot. Try putting your parking lights on and rotating the dimmer until it clicks into the "full on" position (clockwise) and back a few times and notice any changes. With the dimmer all the way down you should have nothing lit up except the led's. With it locked in the "full on" position everything should light up with your speedo & tach at daylight levels.

To check your charging system I would start with fully charging the battery, to see if first it will accept a charge and second if it will hold a charge. Check the voltage at rest/under load. Once your satisfied the battery is good, test the alternator. Check the output voltage at rest/under load. Once you know your charging system is operating properly, as Leadfoot says, you'll know there's a reliable source for all the other systems in your car.

The kind of heat you describe can definitely warp a rotor. When travelling at 100 kph or so, if you apply the brakes you should feel a pulsation and with harder apllication the pulsation should become more pronounced. When you have the car jacked you should be able to feel the pads hit the high spot on the rotor when rotating the wheel with an accompanying rubbing sound. Try moving the wheel side to side to see if there's any play (tie rods, bearings). I'd be carefull not to drive the car until your pads are completely gone. I would also make sure not to overtorque the lugs nuts.

Yes the park/neutral switch may be intermittent. Next time you can't remove your key, try jiggling the shifter to see if it releases. To check the tumblers, next time you can remove the key, try inserting/removing it several times. Check whether there's any difference in the resistance when sliding the key.

Take out the switch and take a look. Even if they look ok, I would take a piece of fine sandpaper and clean the terminals. Also check the action of the slider. Should be free and easy. If not, some wd40 might free it up. I can't imagine those switches costing that much to replace.

When you apply the brakes, do you notice any change in the wobble? When you check the wheel for temperature, do you notice any smell? If your calipers are sticking you would notice the smell of your pads burning. Also, when your making turns either in either direction, do you notice any change in the wobble and hear any noise?

Have you tried putting your car up and rotating the wheels? Listen for any noise (grinding etc), and feel if there's any resistance. If your wheel's heating up sounds like a classic seizing caliper. But it could also be an abs sensor that's about to fail. Another cause could be failing wheel bearings. It's definitely not the trac because that works by cutting your throttle not engaging your brakes. And the parking brake would not affect the front wheel.